condition which these statistics and opin- | sistance of an energetic gentleman whose ions revealed that led to the formation of heart and whose hopes are inseparably the committee to which I have alluded. bound up with. the welfare of the people It was to these circumstances that it owed in the large district under his charge. its existence. It was with the hope of Before leaving home I had telegraphed to applying a partial remedy, if that were him an announcement of the formation of possible, and on that point even grave the fund. I had stated that the committee doubts were thrown. My experience would within certain limits, equally with had convinced me that emigration was the guardians that is to say, in the possible, and that it would be acceptable proportion of one-half-find the amount to many. Only a week prior to the hold- needed to emigrate families, and, with his ing of the meeting I had, in an article in accustomed attention to duty, he had comreply to the ignorant and oft-repeated as- municated the fact to the guardians at sertion, "The people will not leave even if Clifden, and had advised them to pass a they have the chance," used these words: resolution which appeared all that was "I wish that one of these objectors would needed as the first step towards applying take a well-found ship either into Galway for the necessary borrowing powers for or Westport Bay, offering free passages the union. This resolution, passed at the to all who might wish to leave. The re- first meeting of the recently elected board sult would, I think, convince him of his of guardians, largely attended in conseerror." I felt satisfied then I feel still quence, was in the following terms: more satisfied now that experience would justify my statement. It was to me no small satisfaction to reflect that the generosity of the gentlemen who assem Bled at the Duke of Bedford's residence would enable me to put the matter to a practical test, though a feeling akin to dread, a feeling engendered by the magnitude of the task, naturally sobered my rejoicing. The effectiveness of the action, I saw, must be largely dependent for success upon the speed with which it was begun, the hot season, which falls early upon the United States, being less favorable for the arrival of emigrants.

That the guardians desire to intimate that, as they have ascertained that a fund is forthcoming out of which assistance will be given Board will now be prepared to receive and to all persons desirous of emigrating, the consider applications from all such persons, and will take steps to procure whatever money may be required for this purpose.

Proceeding the following day to Clifden, I met Mr. Burke, the clerk of the union, who expressed his own great sense of obligation to the promoters of the fund for their liberal offer to provide half the amount which the guardians might find it needful to advance.

Accordingly, three days after the meeting, jointly with Mr. George Melly and The relieving officer who had charge of Father Nugent, I was in Liverpool in- the district in which the largest proporspecting an emigrant ship, which, then tion of evicted people were living was next outward bound, was six weeks later to seen. He stated he was well assured that convey four hundred people to their new most of them would gladly avail themhomes. The owners were willing to per-selves of the opportunity to emigrate, mit the vessel to go into Galway harbor, adding that of those whom I had visited and subsequently provisional arrange- in March a few had already gone, some in ments were made for the removal of the families, and others leaving wife and chilemigrants. Next morning I had an in- dren behind, hoping soon to earn money terview in Dublin with Earl Cowper, the to enable them to follow. Hundreds of lord-lieutenant, and my friend Mr. Fors- others not evicted would, I was told, ter, the (then) chief secretary, who both gladly follow if they could find the means. in London and Dublin had entered warmly The relieving officers were requested by into the scheme and taken a personal the local government inspector and clerk rather than an official interest in its opera- to go round their respective districts, and tion. From Mr. Forster as well as from to draw up lists of those who desired to Mr. Robinson, the president of the Local emigrate, giving full particulars as to the Government Board, I obtained every facil-ages, number in family, occupation, etc. ity which they could afford me for the They were also directed to inquire in each prosecution of my work. On the follow-case the amount which the family could ing day I met, in the heart of Connemara, Mr. H. A. Robinson, the local government inspector, who on all occasions had rendered me hearty assistance - the as

contribute, their condition as to clothing, and whether they could show that they had friends in any place in Canada or the States to whom they could go. I met

several gentlemen in the town who seemed | since confined. Could not leave for a month. much pleased with the prospect of help Left May, 1882. to be given, and during the morning I had numerous applications from persons who wished to emigrate.

now,

and numerous mountains and glens, re- | nemara scenery prevents its intense soli-, quiring to be visited by car, or boat, or tude, at least for a day or two, from being bicycle, or on foot, are sufficient to tax the oppressive. There are, I need hardly strength and exhaust the energy of any say, no tourists in Connemara man, be he doctor or relieving officer. And though, as the boatman urges, "any genif we except the two little towns of Clifden tleman might lie down and sleep peaceand Roundstone, containing probably fif- ably in the woods." One "fishing gentleteen hundred and five hundred each, man" had been for a few days at the hotel, where out of Ireland can we find any popu- and gone. Except an official passing now lation in a similar condition? Out of 4,027 and then, no one had been staying there. holdings, 3,246 are at and under 47. valua since my visit a month ago. To-day, tion, 610 at or under 10l., giving a total of basking in the full sunshine, how lovely, 3,856 at or under 10l., 170 of all sizes in its first touch of spring, is the scenery above. Some of the small holdings are around! Look from the window across so minute that, as we have said, eighty- the little slope of grass with the fringe of five tenants can be found living on an an- trees to the left, just budding into life. nual valuation of little over 100l. a year, How perfect is the stillness of the loch, or twenty on a strip of land valued at 257. with the shadow of the big mountain rea year. Remember, further, that the total flected on its bosom; how beautiful even arable land under crop does not exceed the wide stretch of bog beyond, to-day ten thousand eight hundred acres, thirty- illuminated and rejoicing in the sun up to three hundred of which are in oats and the very foot of the steep slopes of the rye, and forty-nine hundred in potatoes; Connemara Pins; their gray sides, deand the nature of the soil and climate void of herbage, almost glittering in the may be judged of by saying that there is sunshine, whilst the sharp, clear outlines but one acre of wheat grown in the whole are thrown forward in bold relief against union.* To this must be added the ab- the pale blue sky. Not unlike in shape sence of employment, shown by the fact and color, I have often thought, to the that out of forty owners of land over outlines of the lowest range of the Alpine 100l. a year in the union, not more than spurs which touch the shores of the Medfive, so far as I could learn, were giving iterranean at Mentone. employment to the people. Mr. Mitchell Henry's name was conspicuous among those who were thus benefiting the district, and is in striking contrast to the indifference shown by the largest landholder in the union who enjoys the distinction of being the owner of the largest single estate in Ireland. Then there is no railway nearer than Galway, on the one hand, or Westport on the other, which are forty, fifty, or sixty miles distant, according to the point of the union you are in. Of roads there are a few, but a vast number of the houses have to be reached by the little boreens, or across the wet bogs or rocky pathway. "Irish" is the language usually spoken, although it is by no means uncommon to find among the children a knowledge of English.

And how would such a quiet day as this Easter Sunday on which I write be valued by the thousands who have sought in an infinite variety of places too crowded, alas! to gain the rest and refreshment for brain and body, which the perpetual strain of our great cities increas; ingly necessitates! Perhaps a solitude too great for most, but the beauty of the surroundings and the charm of this Con

• Agricultural Statistics, Ireland, 1881.

But with this sunshine it is impossible to remain indoors, and a few steps take you into the rocky wood which nearly surrounds the hotel, and thence into the wide, open, elevated plateau of bog and moor which stretches for miles to the southern coast of Galway. But as you pass through the strip of wood it is impossible not to be struck with the variety and exquisite beauty of the mosses and ferns (just showing their new fronds) which everywhere abound, luxuriating in this moist, mild climate. There, too, in the rocky crevices the Saxifraga (London pride) and the Hymenophyllum abound, with other rare ferns.

And beyond this belt of wood, which ceases so suddenly that you are assured you are indebted chiefly for this rarity to the hand of some former possessor of the estate, you are on the bog. It is needful carefully to pick your way, to avoid the swampy holes, in order to reach one of the rocky heights which stand boldly out of the turf around. And when there, what a panorama is spread before you!

To the west the chain of little lochs which flow through the valley past Ballinahinch and its old rabber castle till they find an outlet among rocks and surge on the Atlantic coast. Northward the chain

than worked.

Six

of the Connemara mountains, commenc- Held in "Co.,"* under Mr. B- a farm: ing at the coast, which almost fills up the rent now 157. a year. Thirty years ago it had more distant horizon, and as the eye been held by his father, with right of almost sweeps along their bold outline they drop unlimited grazing over the mountains. Then, down in the valley in which Loch Inah step by step, the rent had been raised-61., the loveliest of Connemara lakes is ly-grazing right had been restricted, and from S., 15.-and with the last increase the large ing; and, again retreating further inland, that time his downfall had commenced. the heights of Maamturk fill up the east- or seven years ago he had several head of ern distance. How snug and peaceful the cattle and eighty sheep, and the amount of scattered cottages of Lasoghta look- mountain land left was insufficient to keep his almost the only sign of human life visible stock, which year by year had to be sold to - with the green patch beside them pay debts or rent. This was his story. He marking the strata in which the marble also had been evicted in January, and was living quarries of Connemara are found, rather in a hut he had built to shelter his family, not far, as is usual, from his former house. The children who were with him were in rags, though he was fairly clothed; and where were the wife and eldest girl he had mentioned? They were "naked in clothing" and ashamed to come. He was unable to find any money to help in emigrating; indeed, his debts to the shops could not be less than 40%., for he had formerly been looked upon as a man of some property; but now he had nothing, and could not even find the means to clothe his family. He owed at Christmas for 67. 1os., and now had no milk three years' rent. He had sold his last heifer for the family, and on this money they had been living, and now nothing was left. Three years' rent-45%, and shop debts as much! He, like others, said that the charge for the turf they burned was felt as a great hardship; for, however small, it had been considered a right attached to the land they held, just as the right to turn out cattle on the mountains had been considered.

Immediately below you the fringe of green larches dips down to a tiny lake almost embowered in their branches, and then, again, other small lochs, their outline partially hidden by the trees on this side, but ever beyond the miles of brown turf bog, all to-day illuminated by the

sun.

wee

(Except the slight breeze which ever haunts a height, in the stillest day, there is perfect calm; not a cloud to show that we are in Ireland. The magpie, flying high in the air in perfect enjoyment of the day, descending suddenly, as by some unseen ladder, with its tail outspread, utters its sharp cry to its mate on the nest in the larches beneath, and the plaintive wee "of the sandpiper and harsher note of the oyster-catcher are the only sounds which break the stillness of this perfect The following day, leaving the great day, which breathes nothing but peace. Connemara highway, from Oughterard to There are those to whom, alas! this sun- Clifden, with which the tourist is acshine must seem, in some degree, a bitter quainted, with its tens of thousands of mockery. But it is with the people, and acres of mountain, bog, and loch, we turn not with the scenery, of Connemara that directly south towards the population of I am now concerned, and I can imagine which I have spoken, spread along the some one asking, is this one of the con- numberless inlets and coast-line of Galgested districts from which it is needful way. Those whose knowledge of the to remove a population too numerous for district is confined to the great highway, the land to support? This which I have with its fresh-water lochs, may be sur thus hastily sketched is the tourist's view prised to know that within a few miles to of Connemara, and it needs that the trav- the south of the road a large population eller, turning his back on the mountains, exists, and has existed for centuries, who should cross to the south the vast stretch are indebted not to fresh water but to the of bog land-its unspeakable dreariness sea for their existence. But such is the only relieved by the glorious sunshine- case, and you have hardly cleared the to reach the coast of Galway, along which | lochs three or four miles before you come the hamlets or dwellings of the people are upon the dark fringe of seaweed which widely scattered. But to describe these indicates the change from fresh to salt must be the work of another day, and on water. And here at once signs of culti returning to the hotel we are quickly re-vation begin, and small huts are seen minded of the work in hand. A respecta- scattered about, and the population are ble-looking man, with five barefoots, is waiting to see me, and this is his story:

J. P., age 35 years. Wife and seven children.

"To hold in Co." is a plan much adopted here, by which all the tenants, often five or more on a holding (gradually subdivided), are made responsible jointly and severally for the rent-a most mischievous system

for the tenant.

everywhere busy among the stony plots | appreciated, and subsequently warmly of ground which form their holdings. supported. Then, after other visits, I The nature of the soil, except perhaps came upon the scene of the evictions that it is more stony, does not differ ma- of January last. Two or three of the terially from the tens of thousands of " "housheen were deserted. Some ten- . acres which lie untouched on the margin ants whom I had met and talked with of the fresh water. about emigration in a ruined house a month ago, had already gone, chiefly the smaller families. A man and his daugh. ter had gone, leaving the wife and two or three children behind. To these and others I could now, through the generous support of English friends, give the hope of an early reuniting of the family, and I shall not soon forget the smile of the girl of twelve or thirteen when I asked her