ing for the last trump. She was a won- pensed gratis by the mayors of the difderfully sagacious animal.

ferent villages, have to be sown before Sometimes Lafarge would drink a a certain date, and at intervals one little too much at dinner, and then from the other indicated by the state. Jeannette would immediately disap- Only the first crop is allowed to be pear. If she remained near the table used, although when the first leaves she was certain to be called upon to do have been gathered many more appear disagreeable tricks, one of which was on the plant. These are removed and to jump on to the table without upset allowed to rot. It is forbidden to walk ting anything. This often entailed a through tobacco-plantation. All lot of cuffs, and. Lafarge's shouting these precautions, however, do not was irritating in the extreme. She was make the French tobacco smokable. the best sporting dog I came across in Perhaps the best for the pipe is that France.

issued to private soldiers in the French Noël, the grocer, was a kind and army. On joining they are presented pleasant man. Often he would come with so many coupons which entitle in to supper in the garden, and some- them to purchase certain packets of times brought with him his little tobacco at three sous for half a pound, nephew, whom he had adopted. This or rather the sixth of a kilo. It is youngster, who was about six years really very fair tobacco, but it cannot old, was as precocious as could be, es- be purchased by the public. pecially in the expressions he useu. Before I left Flaujagues I witOn one occasion I had to swim across nessed the gathering of the grapes, in the river, and when I told him of this which and in the manufacture of the he shrugged his shoulders and said, wine, I must say, I saw nothing very “Eh, bien, mon ami!” as one who picturesque or attractive. All the idle would say, "I am glad it was not I.” youths and women of the place turn Again, he arrived on the scene while out in their oldest clothes, the women Lafarge was up in a fig-tree plucking wearing shovel-shaped black straw the fruit-shouting and gesticulating hats; and they are provided with as usual. Little Noël drew me aside wooden baskets in which they gather by the sleeve.

the grapes.

These baskets are then "Je crois qu'il est fou, cet individu emptied into the comportes, or tubs, là. Jamais je n'ai vu ramasser des through which is run a pole to enable figues comme cela," he said confiden- them to be carried by two men. Carts tially.

are waiting to receive the contents of He was sent to bathe the setter in the comportes, and thus the vendange the river, and the animal pulled him goes on. For days beforehand all coninto the water.

versation turns on this grape-gather“Si je n'avais su nager,” he after ing, and discussions arise as to whether wards remarked, "j'étais f- using the merlots (a species of black grape) à coarse expression meaning he was should be gathered before the semillon done for.

(a white grape), and on similar points. There was a little girl of his age in Nothing very disgusting happens, howthe village who was hardly less pre- ever, until the grapes are taken to the cocious. One day Noël was given great vats. In the case of the black some new wine to drink, whereupon grapes, for red wine, when the vat is he became somewhat loquacious and fairly full, a couple of men are told off quarrelsome.

to crush them. They remove their boots "Mon Dieu!" said the little girl, and socks, and with bare feet (which shrugging her shoulders, “c'est le der- in one case, to my certain knowledge, nier coup qui lui a fait mal.”

had not touched water for four years) At this season the tobacco was being they proceeded to fouler or squash the taken in. The growing of the plant, fruit. Then the mess was left to ferlike its sale, is regulated by govern- ment. The fermentation is indicated ment. The seeds, which dis- by the bubbling and seething of the


crushed grape and their juice, and at matter: the village swains in their this stage so great is the amount of awkward coats and soft felt hats carbonic acid gas engendered that a walked proudly by their side. lighted candle held two feet above the And with this pleasant picture in tub is instantly extinguished. The mind I must leave Flaujagues, in the juice is then drawn off and the grapes hope that some day I may find my way conveyed to the pressoir, where they to the sunny unspoiled village, and be are further crushed by means of a greeted once more by the friendly voice screw and levers. The process in the of Alain Lafarge. case of white grapes is different. Here the fruit is put through the pressoir without going through the treading process, and although the men who

From The Sunday Magazine.

IN BASHAN, work the press are barefooted, the white wine, I think, is the cleaner of

About twenty miles east of Jordan, the two. People say that all dirt or

and thirty miles south-east of the sediment comes to the surface before Lake, 'we reached the ruins of Jerash, the wine is drawn off. Let us hope in a well watered but treeless plain. that it is so. I was compelled, from

It is quoted as "the most perfect fear of offending, to sample a glass or

Roman citly left above ground." Yet two of the new wine. It was inde- it is scarcely ever mentioned in history. scribably disagreeable and cloying.

It was at the height of its glory in the Still, when I drank the wine from the days of Christ, and it proves that Basame grapes which had been a few

shan must have been then extremely years in bottle, I found it equal to any fruitful and populous. The theatre at Margaux. Many a bottle of Lafarge's its gate-not the only one in Jerashwhite wine have I drunk with him

could seat five thousand people, and after a long day's shooting, and I do twenty-eight tiers of the stone seats not think an Englishman has ever had

are still perfect. Near it is a better.

course which could be filled with water It is a curious fact that the village of

for naval contests. The forum in Flaujagues is almost entirely Protes

front of the theatre is encircled by an tant. Му. host


Ionic colonnade, not unlike the piazza although his wife was a Catholic. The

of St. Peter's at Rome. In front of it mayor and his family were Protes- runs a street which might be called tants. There was a Protestant church "straight.” Its pavement is as deeply (temple, as they will call it), which on

rutted as at Pompeii. It is a mile Sundays was well attended. As La- long, and has one hundred upright farge's house was just opposite, I was

columns and many more prostrate. able to watch the people as they went

In all about three hundred columns there-a dowdy lot. There were few

still stand out white and glaring in the

mile men among them, but a little coloring fierce sunshine. The city is a was given the crowd by the village square, and its walls are eight feet

A gurgling stream rushes as one still meets with in remote spots through the ruins to join the Biblical in England. On Sunday, however, Jabbok. From Jerash we travelled these were of a superior quality, of north for a whole day over the tablemauve, blue, or pink crépon, embel- land of the Hauran. It resembled the lished with many rows of embroidery plain of Philistia and the cultivated and lace. They were very becoming parts of Manitoba, and was then i to the wearers, who also covered their green ocean of wheat and barley, soon coarse hands with long suède gloves as to be “white unto harvest." For fine as any lady's, and encased their miles and miles we could not see one feet in smart shoes. The cheap grey human habitation. But in harvest stays purchased at the village mercerie

thick. girls, who wore large sun-bonnets such

1 A column-mania took possession of the Roman seemed bardly stout enough-but no

builders in the first centuries A, D.



It re

the Bedouins return and reap, while tower for a vast circuit. It has some their wives and daughters—Ruth-like five thousand inhabitants, and is the -glean after them. By noon we were seat of the Turkish governor. The at the tents of Beni-Sakhr, “the sons buildings are miserable vaults, and all of the rock." (Beni is just the “Mac" of one model. They are built of of our Highlanders.) By the side of basalt stones, which must have betheir tents lay the great Haj or pilgrim longed to much older edifices, as many route from Damascus to Mecca. It of them are elaborately carved. The is one of "the old paths" (Jeremiah vi. roofs are of stone, and built, like the 16), for it is the immemorial line of Forth Bridge, on the principle of the traffic through Bashan.

There were,

cantilever or bracket. The houses are I should think, about two hundred thus veritable Stonehenges.

But we tracks, many of which ran into one an- found none of the stone doors or win. other. An Arabic poet compares dows that are common in other parts these parallel tracks to the bars of the of the country. Some remnants of cyrayed Arabic mantle. Mohammed clopean masonry, however, suggested made this pilgrimage a religious duty, Bashan's “three score great cities and he who performs it is a Hadji, a : with walls and brazen doors” (1 Kings pious person, and is considered safe for iv. 13). But we were most interested Paradise.

in the old Edrei underground. In 1893, no less than fifteen thou- sembles the underground city at Beit sand were in the pilgrimage caravan Jibrin. It is hewn out of the soft which started from “the gate of God” limestone rock, and is first-rate work. at Damascus. It should be called “the It has rock-hewn streets, houses, gate of Death," some one has said, for shops, stairs, cisterns, pillars, airthousands of the pilgrims leave their holes, a market-place, and plenty of carcases in the wilderness, and they water. It was possibly the labyrinbreed cholera, which spreads some- thine residence of Og and his people times over Europe, while the health of in times of war. It is believed to be others is injured by the shameful the work of the Amorites and Horims, debaucheries at Mecca, which is one of "the giants" of Scripture (Deut. ii. 20). the most vicious cities in the world. May there not be a reference to such As in the march through the wilder- hiding-places in Deut. vii. 20, and ness, the Mecca pilgrims are guided by Joshua xxiv. 12, where we are told night by “a pillar of fire." An iron that hornets were sent among those cage or grating, in which a fire is kept who hid themselves from their purburning, is carried aloft in front. It suers ? The only living things we lights the way, and offers a rallying found in underground Edrei point to the struggling host. We countless bats hanging from the roofs, found that the wells on the route were like hams in a ham-curer's store. Unstoutly padlocked, for the modern derground Edrei was a fit residence for children of Ishmael imitate their fore- that mysterious king who appeals so fathers, who sold water to their powerfully to the imagination of our cousins the Children of Israel in the children. Many travellers have told wilderness. Our day's journey ended extravagant stories about the mosquiat Ed Deraah, the site of Edrei, the toes and flies in Palestine, but our capital and last battlefield of Og, King night experiences at Ed Deraan of Bashan. It is still the largest town taught us to accept their testimonies. in Bashan (Deut. iii. 10). It is exactly An old traveller, about 1000 A.D., wrote such a spot as a military eye would that, from the number of the feas, choose for a fortress. It is the only the people at Tiberias must dance two high hill in the plain, and is a watch- months in the year. The author of

"Eothen” tells us that in the morning 1 Haj is from the Hebrew hag, a religious pil

he buttoned his coat over the frag. grimage, the very word used by Moses when he asked leave from Pharaoh to go into the wilder

ments of himself, and pursued his journey.


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Sixth Series,
Volume XII,


No. 2728.–October 17, 1896.

From Beginning,

Vol. COXI,


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DREN. By E. V. Lucas,

Fortnightly Review,
thur Stuart,

Temple Bar,
NEWMAN. By Aubrey de Vere,

Nineteenth Century,
M. Betham-Edwards,

National Review,
V. THE SKY-Pilot. By Mary S. Hancock, Gentleman's Magazine,
VI. AFRICAN FOLK-LORE. By A. Werner, Contemporary Review,

Nineteenth Century,

Fireside Magazine,

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Poor battered wrecks, or proud and gay,

Upon thy seas, unhindered, voyage they. Is then our world all pitiful to thee,

Ever thou cheer'st the pace: Thou followest so wistfully

Each several port is lighted by thy face. All its mad humors and its vain desires

O far companion of the pitiful eyes, With an indulgence sweet that never

So cruel, benign, so friendly, so unwise, tires ?

Kindest of all this side the tomb, Why with our secrets bast thou sym.

Lighting with equal smile to throne or pathy?

doom! Thy tyrant brother on the other throne,

New Review.

ANNIE MACDONELL. He of the ruddier crown, Tosses us up and down, Burns out our mirth, or mocks our moan; And we are what he wills that we should

be, Dejected or exultant, bound or free,

IRELAND! MY IRELAND! At war with our whole selves with him to Ireland, oh Ireland! centre of ing longings, agree.

Country of my fathers, home of my

heart! Thou knock’st at hidden doors, and mak'st Overseas you call me: Why an exile from thy way

me? To crypts unvisited of Day.

Wherefore sea-severed, long leagues Beneath thy smile bonds melt and break,

apart? And in thy dawn Day's prisoners awake Wake and remember their desires,

· As the shining salmon, homeless in the sea While every glance of thine conspires

depths With fears and dreams and loves and

Hears the river call him, scents out the hates,

land, A night with thee a year's march nearer to Leaps and rejoices in the meeting of the the fates

waters, For which we were born.

Breasts weir and torrent, nests him in No warning, no reproach, no scorn,

the sand; Falls in thy glance of sympathy, Fair comrade of our liberty.

Lives there and loves; yet with the

year's returning, And so beneath thy gaze the homesteads Rusting in the river, pines for the sea, sleep:

Sweeps back again to the ripple of the Peace and soft rest the pastures keep: The river starts at call of thee,

Roamer of the waters, vagabond and Boasts of a keener race exultingly;

free. And their mute pledge forgot, the forest trees

Wanderer am I like the salmon of thy Breathe indiscreet forbidden mysteries.

rivers; Out of the unexplored heath

London is my ocean, murmurous and Rise up strange folk that sleep beneath,

deep, And outcast curse and rebel shout

Tossing and vast; yet through the roar of Salute thee as they join the grisly hunter's London rout.

Comes to me thy summons,

calls me in No secret, wild or mild, of any place can sleep.

hide, But must at thy soft touch confide.

Pearly are the skies in the country of my

fathers, So for my mad desires, my hopes un

Purple are thy mountains, home of my uttered, and my nameless goal

heart. I steer by thee, mute pilot of my soul.

Mother of my yearning, love of all my And unreproved by thee the lover's love longings, and sing,

Keep me in remembrance, long leagues The rebels curse, the dreamer builds, the

apart. beggar is king.



tide way,

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