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as are found in the Monte Carlo of to-day. progress or shall I call it license ?-affect. The privilege of entrance was never very ed the German as it did the other gambling select, but it was an understood thing that places. They were quietly closed before all who were admitted to the rooms should scandal was allowed to place upon them its know bow to behave, and should learn how festering inger. Ems, Homburg, Wiesto dress. At the time that Thomas Rob. baden, and Baden-Baden were as brands ertson wrote his comedy called “ Play, ' snatched from the burning. They were and introduced some graceful pictures of handed over from dissipation to health, holiday life at Baden-Baden, I suppose the and from pleasure to education. The water place was in its full tide of success and cures healed the body, and the schools asfashion, and that is about the time that I sisted the mind. Lawn tennis succeeded visited this charming and well ordered the board of green cloth, and the crickelnook a few miles from the main railway ball was heard instead of the eternal click station, called “ Oos,” facetiously known of the roulette table, There were stranger by all
however, . Soine
mysterious chance helped see the Life at Baden-Baden in those days was last act of what I may presume was the not particularly strait-laced, but you saw most disreputable little gambling hell in there all that was most distinguished in the Europe. Like its brothers and sisters in aristocratic and the balf world also. There iniquity it was situated amid enchanting were races at Iffizheim and pigeon-shoot- scenery—the last place in the world you ing matches and drives through the woods would expect to find amid the “ to the mountains ; there were balls and con- solitary mountains” and in the heart of a certs and theatres, and shops where win- smiling valley with its simple villages and ners invested in diamonds, and losers ob- waterfalls. It was at the close of a sumtained advances on priceless jewels ; for- mer holiday in Switzerland that my friends, tunes were lost there, and folly went hand not without ominous warnings, left me on in hand with fun; but Baden and its sis- the platform of the station of " Saxon les ter watering-places never sank to the tipsy Bains” in the Rhone Valley. Here gamdepravity of the “American Bar."
It bling was kept up some tiine after the Gerwas a case of 66 levelling up” at Baden, man tables were closed ; and I very
much not of“ levelling down.”
No doubt some doubt if such a villainous set of people, of the scum of European society floated such a scum of blackguardism, could have that
way, but the atmosphere of the place been found at any other place on the Eumade them be on their best behavior and
continent. Outside all was fair and not their worst. A man who did not smiling-little villas, seductive chalets, a know how to present himself in society, miniature casino concealed in some gareither in dress or conversation, would have dens, clusty and burnt up with the summer been politely shown the door--on the heat, and a second-class hotel with a back. wrong
side. The snob who made a dis- ground of lovely mountains. I was des. turbance in the well-ordered rooms where tined to enjoy a strange experience. Ardiscreet silence prevailed would have been riving late in the afternoon, I sat down in politely hustled out. The Corinthian”? the untidy salle a manger of the hotel for who would have dared to swear and curse table d'hôte, but before the dinner was and shout at a Baden hotel or restaurant, half over I was astonished to find that my and to insult the guests assembled there, left-hand neighbor-an untidy, care worn would have been firmly but politely pre- looking_woinan-burst into a flood of sented with the “ key of the street, and tears. Being of a sympathetic turn of not even then allowed to bully and holloa mind, I tried to console her, or at any rate like a tipsy costermonger. In those days to ascertain the cause of her despair. It mere wealth, or mere impudence, did not appeared that her husband, who was a secure for their owners any special privi- French commercial traveller, was upstairs lege of inpertinence toward the majority. in bed, half tipsy with brandy, and threatOn the contrary, the majority were per- ening bis wretched wife that he would fectly able and willing to take care of commit suicide before morning. He had themselves, and to protect the women lost every farthing of his employer's monunder their care,
ey on the morning of that very day, and But gradually, I suppose, the tide of they had only a few francs between them
to pay the hotel bill, for which they were tables that I was a marked man. Two being pressed by the landlord. I then melodramatic villains followed me out of understvod the object of the flood of tears. the room, and as I anticipated danger in I was expected out of my charity to extri- the dark shrubberies of the casino garcate my fair neighbor from her difficulty, dens, for the gas supply was very limited and save her demented husband from a indeed, I resolved, heavily weighted as I premature death. But my own finances was in the handicap, to make a bolt for at the end of a holiday did not permit ine it, and to show my evil-looking friends a to indulge in any very extensive scheme of clean pair of heels. Jingling and rattling charity. My purse would not yield more I arrived at the mean-looking hotel, and than a small gold piece, wbich was natu- having found my way to my room prorally promptly conveyed to the gambling ceeded to fing my gains on to the bed and table. Whether I saved the wretched to count the spoil. To my astonishment woman from the beating which she hourly I heard crafty steps creeping about the expected, or her drunken husband from corridor. Incautiously I bad forgotten to the doom he contemplated, I never discovo lock the door. Had I wanted to do so it ered, for the early dawn saw me many would have been impossible, as I found, miles from the vile hole known as Saxon when examining the door, that the lock les Bains. But in the few memorable and bolts had been deliberately wrenched hours that I spent there I had impressions away. There was no time to be lost, for that I am not likely to forget.
the cat-like steps still crept about the pasious to see what is to be seen wherever I sages, waiting for my light to be extinmay be, I made my way after dinner to gnished. There was no help for it but to the gambling tables. It is impossible to make a barricade. I dragged the heavidescribe the vile appearance of the men est furniture from its place and barred the and women who crowded round the tables, door with the wardrobe, the chairs and or to record the language that was used. tables, But sleep was impossible. All The croupiers all seemed to favor the most night long my door was being tried by the disreputable, and on more than one occa- guests of the hotel proprietor who had sion there was a free fight over some dis- taken a fancy to my silver pieces. By the
The smallest coin that could first train I was on my way to Geneva with be staked was a florin, and I am bound to my prize secure. And I saw no more of say
little gold on the table. I Saxon les Bains, whose evil career came to happened to be rather lucky, and my good an end the next year. It was ruined by fortune aided me in securing my winnings the power of its inherent vice and reckless before they were appropriated by the depravity. thieves--men and women-in whose un- At last, after many years' waiting, the desirable company I was placed. I was chance of visiting Monte Carlo presented only playing with florins, and as there ap- itself. I was to go under the happiest peared to be no gold on the board I was auspices and in the company of old friends. paid in silver pieces. As time wore on I Expectation had led me to hope for much, got heavier and heavier, all my pockets and in this instance all that I had imagined were filled, and, as may be guessed, the as to the beauty of the Riviera was exwinning of a very few pounds in silver ceeded. The best way to approach the pieces would eventually retard my prog- paradise of flowers and sunshine is to start ress somewhat, and make me an easy prey from Paris-after a rest—by the train de to any one concealed in the shrubberies who luxe. You come to the most interesting was armed with a stout club. On one oc- bits of the scenery in the early morning casion two friends of mine who had been after a good sleep and a comfortable breakplaying and winning at St. Sebastian on fast, and all that the enthusiast can desire the Spanish frontier were kindly provided is a flood of sunshine. We got it almost by the “ administration' with a couple of from daybrcak. I can conceive no greater old Dogberrys, who with pikes and lan- pleasure than the gradual ascent as it were terns escorted them and their gains to their into the favored regions of the s'ın, Hour hotel. The authorities at Saxon les Bains after hour the gloom and mist are left bewere not so considerate to me, and I had hind. We reach the gray olives when the to make the best of my way bome unat- day is breaking. We arrive at Marseilles tended. I saw at once when I left the and the calm blue Mediterranean shore
I saw very
when the sun is mounting to the heavens. own that you can dine or breakfast here No more tracks of olive strewn plains, no as well if not better tban at the Café Anmore rocks and barren pastures—all beauty glais or Delmonico's. Every luxury that when Marseilles is left behind. At once man or woman can desire is to be had here we are in another world.
Hitherto our for the asking. The sun is shining in the English eyes have only been accustomed heavens, the air is exhilarating, not deto apple and cherry orchards at home, but pressing. The flowers acent the very at. here the landscape is starred out with ripe mosphere, the music is of the very best that red oranges and golden lennons. There can be obtained in Europe.
Why then seems to be everything in nature here. are all the visitors except the confirmed We can scarcely believe our eyes. Orange gamblers talking of removing away to setrees in blossom and in fruit at the same lect Cannes or lovely Beaulieu ? There is hour ; violets and anemones blooming side something wrong with the place, someby side with acres of rose trees ; spring, thing that does not meet the eye. What summer and autumn, as we know them, is the matter with Monte Carlo ? To the united in one long embrace. After Cannes outward gaze it is, indeed, a paradise. the scenery intensifies in beauty. The Who poisoned it ? Let us look for ourtrain, rushing through little tunnels, skirts selves and see. blue, land-locked bays, sparkling with Up those fatal steps then to the great yachts and gay with men of war. The white building from whose portals the carewindows of all the villas are open, and al- less and slip-slop administration, so it is though yesterday we were shivering in the rumored, thought fit to expel the Prime Strand now there are sun-blinds and tents Minister of England. This is the seat of in the gardens, and lawn-tennis players are the disease that is eating the life out of seen in flannels resting from some tourna- Monte Carlo. This is the canker spot of ment anong
the flowers. Each sunny sput the lovely Principality. It is here if you on the Riviera has its admirers, but none take a seat at the café in the pretty flowcan rival Monte Carlo for situation and ered square, and smoke a meditative cigar, grandeur. Nowhere else is there the back- that you can quietly observe the inner and ground of majestic rock ; nowhere else the despairing life of Monte Carlo. All the castled 'promontory of Monaco where day long, from eleven o'clock in the mornthe palace of the prince is half hidden by ing until the clock strikes eleven at night, bowers of mimosa and geranium. The they ascend and descend-men and womkey-note of the despair of the place is en, honest people and scoundrels, the struck within a moment of arrival. An old over dressed and the well-nigh ragged— friend who comes to meet us at the sta- the marble steps that-good chance or bad tion, a good fellow who enjoys fun like chance-must eventually lead to ruin. the rest of us, is already preparing to de- How confident and buoyant is the newpart. He has been over to Mentone and comer ; how gloomy and meditative the he owns he likes it better. Another who old hand ; how dejected and despairing has bad but a slight apprenticeship of the comes out one ; how feverisbly excited Principality has made up his mind to join and talking at the top of his voice comes his friends at Nice. A third is enthusi- the gambler, who for the moment thinks astic about the peaceful villa gardens where that he is destined beyond all others to so many English make a home on the alter the course of the inevitable. On sunny road between Nice and Monte Carlo. every face, even of the youngest and pretA fourth, who has only remained behind tiest, are already marked the lines of anxto welcome us, cordially owns that “ he iety. Why do not our artists come and has bad enough of it." What is the paint this, the most dramatic picture in all matter with the place? What plague has Monte Carlo ? stricken it? There is nothing to find fault Before now we have seen in pictures the with at the hotels, except the prices, which interior of the gaming rooms, the light, must run high at such places where money the excitement, the greed, the various exis no object. Some prefer noise, others pressious on the faces. But the true quiet. To some the Grand and the Paris drama is here on the Casino steps, which are too fast : to others the decorous Me- must be trodden in despair at last in spite tropole is, according to them, too slow. of luck, in spite of systems, in spite of As to the mere eating and drinking, all marking of cards, and mathematical cal
culations, in spite of pilfering and cheat- carcasses of the good-natured and inexperiing, and borrowing and sponging by the enced. People at home are under the imtragic figure, half dead, hopeless, penniless pression that the gambling rooms have a -a pathetic ruin. The pitcher has gone certain allurement of refinement and fastidonce too often to the well. It is broken ious taste. It used to be so in the old at last. And to this complexion every days, but is not so now. Badly ventilated gambler in the world must come.
they are, ill decorated, very second-rate The people at Monte Carlo appear to act and down at heel ; the old drawing-room on the principle that every respectable style has been abolished, out of deference person should be eyed with suspicion, and to the company that visits them. Strange every shady-looking customer welcomed to say, I was reminded far more of dingy with open arms. The change from the sun Saxon les Bains, than of aristocratic Ems and gayety outside to the squalor and and Homburg. At Monte Carlo they suit gloom of the outer ball is very striking to the their room to their company, and a nice spectator who can remember the old Baden shady company it appears to be.
There days. No wonder that hotel robberies are are three social periods at the tables. of daily occurrence, that you cannot leave First, in the morning, the inveterate gam. your room without danger of your trunk blers who make a trade of it, and are to being rifled ; that squabbles and wran- be seen in their chairs almost from mornglings occur over the stakes, that a croupier ing until night ; secondly, in the afterhas been proved to be in league with the noon, what may be called the provincial
knights of industry,” who swarm like and suburban rush that brings the amiable bees about the place, when free admission punters by train from the neighboring is given to such a seedy society as this. peaceful spots shut out from temptation, Respectability is in a minority, whereas a and consequently sheltered by respectafew years ago, it had a decided majority, bility. Lastly, the desperate and bejewand the company, as it ever does, has given elled division, the after-dinner crowd, in a tone to the scene. In the outer hall, which peers, and officers, and statesmen, that reminds one of the entrance to a rail- and people of the highest respectability way station, ill-decorated, untidy and di- from every city in the world, attired as vested of all style, lounge escrocs, smok- gentlemen and ladies, rub shoulders with ing and spitting, men and women, who thieves and demi-reps, the ostracized and are well known as evil characters by every the suspected, the bold and the brazen, police department in Europe. A lady and the queens of the balf-world, plastered points me out a man who robbed her and over with jewels, which are the admiration her husband only a season or so ago, and and envy of all beholders, particularly of the was kicked out of the Principality. Here hotel robbers, who mark down their prey. he is back again, practising his old tricks, And modern Monte Carlo has apparently and conveniently provided with an admis- become converted to the use and advantage sion ticket by the courteous administration. of the American bar. She is not alone in Here are well-known characters in the that respect. At some of the most reblack book of our own Scotland Yard. spectable Swiss hotels in the holiday seaAs I stand watching this curious assembly, son may be seen, either ostentatiously disI see a little man come out of the room in played or hidden away in a corner, a gaudy an excited state, his hands full of money, bar, at which cock tails, pick-me-ups, and chuckling to himself, and followed by a deleterious drinks are administered by a couple of women, who cling to either arm. showy young lady, or some accredited Ten minutes afterward I discover that he professor in the art of slow poison. Monte has robbed a friend of mine of a winning Carlo is well provided with these social stake amounting to about £20. Where rendezvous. It is the fashion when play on earth do all these people come from ? is over for the refined and the vulgar, the Where do they hide at Monte Carlo ? We man of breeding and the social outcast, to do not meet them at our hotels ; we do foregather at one or other of these bars, not sit beside them at table d'hôte or the which give quite a tone to the society of restaurants ; they are never to be seen at Monte Carlo. The downright good felthe concerts or public places ; they conie lowship, the hail-fellow-well-met princi. out mysteriously, like bats or owls, and fit ple, the good-natured, reckless Tom and about the stifling rooms and fætid tables. Jerryism instituted by the leading “ CoThey are the vultures, ready to prey on the rinthians" who frequent these houses of
call, spread, however, beyond the mid. period, who liked fun well enough, but night hours when the prosperous and the were not indifferent to good breeding and dejected consecrate their victories or con- courtesy toward women. However, they sole themselves for defeat with a friendly do not think so at Monte Carlo, which has glass. The men who would take off their recently adopted the inerry, free-and-easy hats and be uncommonly subservient to tone beloved by the uncouth patrons of their patrons on a race-course, or in a the Margate jetty. paddock at home and abroad, here meet No religious interference, no preaching Those who have known or betted with or protests or prating of prudes, no cirthem, on a common platform of equality. culation of false reports about suicides, no There is nothing a jockey or a tout enjoys philippics on the evils of the gaming-table so much as standing a drink” to a real will ever cause the downfall of this lovely live lord. It would not matter so much to spot. If Monte Carlo is ever to be rethe visitors at Monte Carlo if this delight formed, as its brothers and sisters elseful amity, this “ liberty, fraternity, and where were reformed, it will be by the equality, ended where it began, over a innate force of its own social depravity, consoling cock-tail. No one is compelled and the growth of the cancer-fibres of its to visit American bars, nor can any one unbridled luxury. Vulgarity and expect that the manners of these institu- knavery are the two worst enemies of the tions will be particularly refined' or elevat- Monte Carlo administration. When the ing. But, strange to say, it will be found place becomes socially impossible to visit that the conviviality of the cock-tail its destiny is fixed.
its destiny is fixed. Monte Carlo will respreads in other directions. It extends to vive its old charm and position once more, screaming about the streets in the morn- its unrivalled beauty and majesty-not ing hours, to outrageous extravagances and because there is a revulsion against gamtomfooleries that extend the carousal be- bling—because gambling must exist as long yond its allotted time ; to bellowings and as the world lasts—but because the ragged horn-blowings by popular characters, and Falstaff's army, the camp-followers of the to turning each public restaurant at the din- gaming-tables, will at last become intolerner-hour into a field for the display of the able to the householders and peaceful resihigh spirits and eccentrieity of the Corin- dents of this enchanting spot. One fine thians, who are denied the companionship morning Monte Carlo will arise and find of Bob Logic. Now, no one in his senses her lovely home purged from its impurity, would object to high spirits, or the over- clean, respectable, swept and garnished. flow of the exuberance of youth ; but when Nothing can take from her the glorious it extends to disturbing the comfort and gifts of nature, her bright blue sky, her conversation of pleasant dinner parties by castled promontory, her flower-gardens and yells and song and wild practical joking, it orange groves, her lovely atmosphere that may not be unreasonable to observe that can soothe the jarred nerves of dwellers in with the advent of high spirits came the ex- great cities, and bring the roses back to the tinction of good manners. The man who pale cheeks of the sick. The question is sits on the top of a coach at the Derby with whether these extraordinary gifts of nature a false nose on his face and a doll stuck in were not destined for a better purpose than his bat, may be-in his own estimation, the one to which they are applied. Ala very comical fellow. But such a high- ready to Monte Carlo, that has turned its spirited young gentleman if he brought paradise into a pest-house, that has al. the manners of the Epsom Hill and the lowed luxury to run riot, and evil to tricustom of the stables into the East Room umph over good, has been given the awful at the Criterion, or the Bristol Restaurant warning, the tremendous doom that buried at the height of the season might, with Pompeii_ and reduced Herculaneuin to reason, be voted somewhat of a nuisance. ashes. That mighty earthquake shock, Tony Lumpkin is, no doubt, the best of that rocked the very place to its foundagood fellows, but in Goldsmith's play he tion, and sent the affrighted pleasure. very properly bestows his best jokes and seekers, pale and terror-stricken, to the songs on the yokels who frequent the pop- streets, was surely not given as a sign in ular hostelry, “The Three Pigeons. vain. When revelry exceeds the bounds But a Tony Lumpkin at Ranelagh or of license then comes the ruin. Already Vauxhall would surely have been resented the “writing is on the wall."- Contemby the fine gentlemen and ladies of the porary Magazine.