62 DESCRIPTION OF BONA however, of opinion, that Hippo was situated a mile to the southward of Bona. The inhabitants of this place, during the middle ages, carried on an extensive trade in figs, calling them after their favourite saint. Near the town, some ruins are shewn to this day, which are said to have formed a part of the convent in which he resided. The chief vestiges of Roman antiquity seen at this place, consist of some arcades, with double roofs, in which the bricks are of a very large size, most probably cisterns; a mosaic pavement, and tracks of a road like the Appian way.* The river Seibouse, which joins the sea at Bona, is choked up at its entrance with sand, and consequently not capable of admitting large vessels; the roadstead is rather open, and exposed to northerly winds. Its principal defence consists of a strong fort that commands the town, and the conquest of which, together with Bona itself, formed a memorable event in the more enterprizing days of the Florentine history, when the knights of San Stefano carried the terror of our arms all over the Mediterranean, but more particularly into Africa. To what a source of bitter reflection did not this visit to Bona lead in our anxious thoughts! Our brave ancestors had conquered it, and we were brought there as slaves! In these enlightened days, the insignificant states of Tripoly, Tunis, and Algiers, insulted, with impunity, every power in Europe; capturing the ships of some, and condemning the crews to slavery. While, in former times, the galleys of Tuscany were more than a match for them, wresting the Balearic * On the subject of Bona Dr. Shaw observes, that besides the capacious road before it to the east, "it had formerly a convenient little port under its very walls to the southward; but by the constant discharge of ballast into the one, and neglect of cleansing the other, both are daily rendered less safe and commodious.”—A true picture of the preservative virtues of a Barbary government! In another place he adds, "Bona has the advantage of being finely situated both for commerce and hunting; it enjoys an healthful air, and affords so fine a prospect, that the eye takes in at one view the sea, a spacious roadstead, several mountains covered with trees, and plains finely watered: so that by repairing the old ruins, and introducing fresh water into the town, it might be rendered one of the most delightful and flourishing places in Barbary." Vide SHAW'S TRAVELS.-Ed. islands from their hands, and vindicating past injuries, by the most brilliant achievements gained over Musetto, king of the Saracens, whom they dispossessed of Sardinia. The situation of Bona, its spacious bay, and easy communication with the interior, would, under a different order of things, make it one of the first commercial emporiums in Africa. Nor is it unimportant to observe, that, as an eligible place for disembarking troops and artillery, or, after they are on shore, enabling them to commence immediate operations, this point is hardly equalled by any other on the whole continent. The more ample consideration of this important question, will be discussed in another part of the work. Arrival in ALGIERS.-Landing.-Appearance before the Heads of the Government.-Prison of the Slaves.-First Day in Slavery.-The Employment.Hours of Repose.-Public Works.-Liberation. --Arrival at the British Consulate's.-Lost Riches.-Still greater Losses.-Consolations.-Unfortunate Companions.-Mode of living at ALGIERS. HAVING closed the work of plunder, and procured some refreshments, not the least agreeable part of the visit, to us; the squadron again set sail, and, steering along the coast of Mauritania, we had an opportunity of observing those objects, so happily described by Carlo and Ubaldo, when sent to draw Rinaldo from his inglorious retreat. At length several white specks began to rise in the western horizon, and a fine breeze soon brought us in sight of the great centre of piracy, so justly apostrophised by the poet, Nido Algeri di ladri infame ed empio.* Algiers forming an extensive semi-circle of hills rising in amphitheatric beauty round the city, and many of them studded with country houses, is exceedingly interesting and picturesque as seen from the sea; while the numerous vineyards, orange and olive groves which surround the town, shewing great marks of industry and cultivation, does not bear much analogy to the fierce character and vagrant life of these African tyrants. On approaching the anchorage, a shout of joy ran through the frigate, and marked the satisfaction of * Algiers! abode of robbers, cruel and impious. Tasso. the barbarians, nor had we any reason to be otherwise than rejoiced at the idea of having terminated our tedious voyage, embittered as it was by such misfortunes. So perfectly comparative are our notions of happiness, that the prospect of landing at Algiers, which, under any other circumstances, would have created the utmost horror, was, in the present instance, hailed with a degree of joy little inferior to that experienced by the first Templers on seeing Jerusalem. Like the patient, who, rather than bear the agony arising from his wounds, submits to a painful operation, we flattered ourselves, that the end of the cruize would also be that of our sufferings. St. Pierre has ingeniously compared adversity to the black mountain Beruber, on the confines of the burning kingdom of Lahor; the ascent to which is impeded by craggy rocks and frightful precipices, but having once reached the summit, the sky becomes serene, while the beautiful plains of Cashamere are seen spreading in the dis tance. No sooner had the ships anchored, than preparations were made to land; when Rais Hamida, with a stern voice, inspired no less by his natural ferocity, than a consciousness of having us now completely in his power, ordered the Sicilian seamen into the long-boat, under charge of the Aga; while the passengers were destined to grace his own splendid triumph. In this crisis, at which another important change was about to be effected in our situation, I could not help recalling to mind, those terrible lines inscribed over the Inferno, Per me si va nella città dolente: which Rais Hamida seemed to repeat on desiring us to follow him * INFERNO, Canto III. thus most inadequately rendered into English: Thro' me the newly damn'd for ever fleet, In ceaseless shoals to Pain's eternal seat; Thro' me they march, and join the tortur'd crew. Boyd. K 66 TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE. into the pinnace, appointed to convey us on shore; towards which we now directed our course, followed by our mournful companions in the Aga's charge. On the Rais's landing, he immediately ordered us to form a procession in his rear, and then moved on, with as much selfimportance, as Sesostris with his four rebellious kings, or the ferocious Timur, conducting Bajazet in his iron cage. An immense concourse had collected on the beach, to welcome with acclamations the triumphant return of the pirates: but we were neither plundered nor insulted, a treatment which many Christian slaves are said to have met with, on disembarking at this inhospitable place. In the manner of the Roman ovation, we made a long circuit, to arrive at the palace destined for holding examinations of captives, and finally condemning their prizes. The Rais entered the building, while we remained outside of the door until called for. "What were you doing under that large heap of ruins ?" was asked of the Duchess of Popoli, who remained three days alone under the arch of a palace destroyed in the great earthquake of Calabria. "I waited,” replied her grace. A large awning being extended in front of the house, the scene shortly opened, exhibiting the members of the regency, in barbarous pomp and horrid majesty, seated before us; accompanied by the ulemas, or expounders of the law and principal agas of the divan. We were then, without farther ceremony or preamble, asked for our papers, which were duly examined; nor was that canting gravity wanting on this occasion, which is usually assumed to justify acts of rapine and plunder. They were then presented to the English consul, whose presence is always required on these examinations, to verify any claim he may have to make. This gentleman soon saw the insufficiency of our documents; but, stimulated by the goodness of his heart, and sentiments of pity for persons in our unhappy condition, he made every possible exertion to extricate us from the appalling dilemma with which we were now threatened. The circumstance of some of the party being natives of a country united to the dominion of France, |