landed us safely at the examination office on the English quay. On the right shore of the gulf from Cronstadt we saw the town of Oranienbaum, and a little further on, the gilded towers and park of Peterhoff, which are situated on a slight acclivity; but after they are passed the banks again become low, and present from a distance the only feature of the Finnish shores, interminable flats. At length a golden spot, sparkling in the sunshine, and of dazzling splendor, together with a tall and taper spire, shooting like a needle to the sky, and rising apparently from the water, are seen, and these are the first indications that prove that the great city founded by Peter the Great is near at hand. This golden spot is the gilded dome of the Isak Church, which may, in fair weather, be seen from Cronstadt, a distance of sixteen miles. The spire is that of the Admiralty. Aside from these two objects, the approach to St. Petersburg is anything but prepossessing, being situated on a number of low islands, formed by the winding of the Neva, and built up on the side next to the sea with indifferent-looking houses. But when we reached the English quay the appearance of things began to improve, and the wonders of the European city opened upon our eyes. landed near the new bridge, one of the greatest monuments of the city, and one of the finest structures in Europe. It was built by Americans; has seven stone arches, with an iron-railing of great beauty. The contractors lost $80,000 by the contract, but like honest men they completed the work in good faith. We were required to pass through a line of policemen into the examination office, where we were detained more than two hours. The examination was more searching than we ever underwent before in other countries. They turned my little trunk upside down, and took all my books, even my Bible, away from me; then we were required to sign our names in several books before we were allowed to depart. Leaving this vexatious place, we endeavored to procure lodgings at Miss Benson's, an English boarding-house, but she was full, and we had to go to the Hotel Russe, or Klaie, where we succeeded in getting tolerable rooms.

We

The day after we arrived in this city we dined with Gov. Brown, our Ambassador, from Tennessee, and his Secretary, Mr. Wright, of New-Jersey. They live together in a well-furnished suite of rooms in the vicinity of the Winter Palace, and not far from the Newski

Perspective, the Broadway of St. Petersburg. We were received at the Legation, not by a Frenchman in kids or a Russian in furs, but by one of Afric's sons, who exhibited his ivory so invitingly and shook our hands so cordially that we almost forgot that we were in Petersburg, and imagined that we were entering the mansion of a Southern planter. In a few minutes after we arrived dinner was announced, and we had hardly taken our seats when the sweet strains of music greeted our ears from the court. The dinner could not have been better, and I must say that we passed the most agreeable evening here that we have spent in Europe. The Minister is a man full of the milk of human kindness; agreeable in conversation, and fully alive to the interests of his country. His Secretary is an accomplished gentleman, possessing all those high traits of character calculated to captivate in society or shine in official station. These gentlemen will ever have our best wishes; and if they should devote their lives to foreign missions, may they in future get into a more comfortable berth.

LETTER SIXTY-FIVE.

ST. PETERSBURG.

Passport System-The Newski Perspective-Churches-Peter's Log Cabin-Corps des Mines-Admiralty-Palaces-Monuments-Excursion to Peterhoff-The Neva-Pick

pockets.

IN my last letter I made allusion to the difficulties we encountered with the police when we landed in this city; but that was hardly a beginning to what we were afterwards subjected to. To save time we engaged the services of a well-known commissionaire, named Craft, to assist us in getting our passports properly arranged. After waiting impatiently at the police office for about two hours, we were ushered into the presence of a number of very dignified-looking men, dressed in full uniform, who eyed us from top to toe, asked various questions of an inquisitorial character, and required our signatures on several different sheets of paper. We were then marched off to another police office about four versts in the opposite direction, where we were again questioned and required to sign papers. After this operation was gone through with, they returned our old pass

port and furnished us with a Russian passport to go to Moscow, for which we paid two rubles and fifty kopeks. During our absence at Moscow, Craft had our names published three successive days in the Police Paper, announcing our intention to leave Russia at a certain time. When we arrive at Moscow another passport will be required to allow us to return to St. Petersburg, for which we pay three rubles more, and when we leave Russia we are required to have still another passport for Sweden. Oh, what a country to an American accustomed to live, move, and act freely! It is utter martyrdom. I would not be compelled to live under such a government for the mineral wealth of Siberia.

From the police office we drove in a drosky down the Newski Perspective, one of the most magnificent thoroughfares in the world. Here all is life and movement, and no ten yards of ground are passed that do not present a scene or subject that will arrest the attention of the stranger. It is four versts (three miles) in extent, very wide, with a gutter in the centre, and paved with blocks of pine wood in some places, and stones variously placed in others. The buildings on this street are lofty and fine, the shops well furnished, and the signs of enormous size, covered with paintings representing the articles sold within. Many splendid equipages are to be seen here, besides innumerable droskies (peculiar to Russia) driven with Jehu speed, and the driver crying out "Padi, padi,”—make way, make way. The drosky is the most curious vehicle I have yet seen, and as we rode in them very often, a sort of description will not be out of place. It is on four low wheels, with a long cushioned seat running lengthwise, on which the rider sits astride, as on horseback, and the passengers likewise if they choose, but they usually sit sideways and have no support for the back. It is drawn generally by two horses, one in shafts with a high arched bow over the neck, called the douga, and the other called le furiens, in traces alongside —this last being trained to curve his neck and canter while the shaft horse trots. The horses are small, but well formed, and move along with great spirit and rapidity. The drosky is the Emperor's favorite vehicle, and when the weather is pleasant he may be seen almost any day driving unattended through the streets.

St. Petersburg abounds in churches, nearly all of which are used by the followers of the Greek faith, multitudes of whom may be seen

at all hours of the day, kneeling at the shrines of the different saints. The most conspicuous edifice for public worship is the Isak Church, the finest structure in Russia, and inferior only to St. Peter's at Rome, and the Cathedral at Milan. The immense dome that surmounts the building is covered with pure gold, and the interior is elegantly adorned with malachite columns and other precious stones from Finland and Siberia.

Crossing the Neva over the Isak bridge, we visited the church of St. Peter and St. Paul, which is situated in the citadel, and conspicuous for its beautiful and slender gilt spire, similar and hardly inferior in height to that of the Admiralty. Aside from the spire, there is nothing attractive about the church, except its being the resting place of Peter the Great and his imperial successors. The preceding sovereigns of Russia were buried in the Arkhangelskoi Sabor in Moscow. Whoever has seen the monuments of the French, Austrian, and Italian sovereigns, will wonder at the simplicity and absence of ornament in this final abode of the Russian Emperors. The simple coffins are placed in the vaults, and over them in the church is nothing further in the shape of a monument than a stone coffin-shaped sarcophagus, covered with a simple pall. The names of the deceased are embroidered in letters of gold. On the tomb of the Grand Duke Constantine lie the keys of some Polish fortresses. Peter III., to whose remains Catherine refused interment in this place of sepulture, rests there now. Paul placed both Catherine's and his father's there. A hundred cannon, impregnable bastions, and a garrison of three thousand men defend the place, which can be desecrated by hostile hands only when St. Petersburg lies in ruins. The Russian princes are the only ones in Europe buried in a fortress.

It was

From this church we drove to the humble little cabin of Peter the Great, situated on the upper end of the same island. built of round logs, pretty much in the western style, one story high, and divided into three apartments. The inner room was his bedchamber, the adjoining one his chapel, where the pictures he worshipped are still preserved, and the third apartment was used for his reception room. Here are preserved numerous relics belonging to that remarkable man. The boat which he is said to have constructed, and the sails he used, are also shown. The Emperor Alexander, to preserve the cabin, had it covered with a casing which

gives it the appearance of a neat frame cottage. It was here that the present great city was first commenced. A number of lights were burning in the chapel when we entered, and devotees to the shrine were constantly kneeling.

We next visited the Corps des Mines, one of the most remarkable establishments in the capital. The building is grand and imposing from the river, but when you approach it the effect of a severe climate is plainly marked upon its walls. Like many other institutions, it was founded by Peter the Great, for the purpose of training and forming a corps of mining engineers, who would be able to explore and work the mines of Siberia and other mineral countries belonging to the vast possessions of Russia. It is not in order at present, having been taken to pieces for the purpose of making some improvement. The Museum attached to this establishment is one of the best arranged and most valuable in Europe. Among the many curious and precious things I will merely mention a few, viz.: Seventy-three crystals of emeralds, each crystal measuring from an inch to an inch and a half in length; a block of malachite weighing four thousand pounds, and valued at £318,478; a piece of native platina, weighing ten and a half pounds, and valued at £1,434; also, seven hundred and fifty pieces of native gold, one piece weighing eighty pounds, another piece eight inches in length and five broad, and valued at £26,236; a single crystal of beryl, weighing about six pounds, is considered the finest known specimen, and valued at £6,521. Besides numerous other mineral specimens, I noticed a great number of plans for mining machines, and among them one for sifting, and one for crushing gold. The collection of swords and other articles of steel manufactured in Siberia are very beautiful, and far superior to any thing I thought them capable of making.

Recrossing the Neva, we went to the Admiralty, situated on the great square of the city, from which diverge all the principal streets. From the spire of this building we had an admirable view of the city, and the windings of the river. St. Petersburg, as I before remarked, is badly situated, and covers an immense space. The city is too large for its population, and the fine wide streets present a desolate appearance from this lofty eminence.

After satisfying ourselves with viewing the vast expanse covered