houses, with round dome-shaped tops, and contains a population of five thousand. The only remarkable antiquity now remaining is a stone tower of great height and symmetry, built by the Crusaders in honor of the forty martyrs killed there. The view from the tower extends even to Jaffa, and it is supposed that St. George, the patron Saint of England, died there. Owing to the inclemency of the weather, we remained two days in the hospitium, and received a visit while there from one of the dignitaries of the town, who was formerly the Vice Consul for the United States, but was for some reason deprived of the flag by our Consul General at Beirout. In due time we returned his call, and were received in great state, for the simple reason that he desired us to intercede for him with the Consul General, and procure his reappointment. During our visit the subject of slavery was suggested by the appearance of a likely negro boy bearing coffee and pipes, which resulted in my gaining some information that I would have otherwise lost. When two slaves intermarry belonging to different masters, the owner of the man claims the male issue, and the owner of the woman the female issue; whereas with us the owner of the woman is entitled to both. Quite a strong attachment exists between the master and slave, and it is not unfrequently the case that they marry and live happily together.

At Ramla we took leave most cheerfully of our camels and camel drivers, to mount the fleet and spirited Arabian steed. I was fortu nate in procuring an excellent animal, which I intend riding throughout all Syria. A ride of two hours through a cultivated plain brought us to the verge of the "hill country of Judea," where the road opens through a rugged ravine, and is formed in the dry channel of a narrow torrent. A scene of wild solitude and desolation surrounded our steps as we pursued our journey through the dark shadows of the mountain, reminding me forcibly of some of the beautiful scenery in Switzerland and our own country. Soon after entering the labyrinth of mountains we reached Latroun, or the "Thief Village," being the site of the place where the thief lived who was crucified on the cross with our Saviour. It is now nothing but a heap of ruined stone houses, occupied by reptiles and jackals. From the summit of the chain I looked back toward the southwest on the beautiful valley of Sharon, bounded by the Mediterranean, and

before me opened the vale of Jeremiah and the ancient fortress called the Castle of Maccabees. Proceeding on our way through conical-shaped mountains, connected with each other at their base, and covered with dwarf oaks, box rose, laurels, and a few olive trees, we came to the Wady Beit Hanina, a long and slippery descent, over slabs of rock and deep gullies, worn by the winter rains. At the foot of this dangerous place we met the celebrated robber Abou Goosh, who used to lay all travellers under heavy contributions until subdued by the arms of Ibrahim Pasha. This man once formed the daring scheme of seizing on Jerusalem, and of establishing himself there, and had well nigh succeeded in the attempt. His various acts at length aroused the attention of the Porte, and a mandate was issued to Abdallah Pasha of Acre to imprison him. Since his release he has been perfectly harmless, and is now an officer of the government. He is one of the handsomest men that I have seen in the East, and apparently about fifty years of age. Passing through Turpentine Valley, we next came to the brook out of which the youthful David picked up the five smooth stones, with one of which he slew the gigantic Goliah. I drank water and gathered some pebbles from the brook as a memento of the spot. The brook now stands in pools, and is evidently a wet-weather stream. Crossing it, we saw the village of Heriet Lefta, and in the distance on the We then ascended gradually for summit of a lofty hill El Bire. about one hour, crossed another rugged flat covered with large loose stones, and descended once more to the Holy City. It has been remarked frequently by travellers in their descriptions that the approaches to the capital are extremely beautiful, but I must beg leave to differ with them. The circuit of hills that were once verdant with the olive, the fig tree, and the vine, are now blasted and deformed. The rocks that were sublime are now devoid of all beauty-the fields and gardens have no richness, and the valleys no fertility. "How doth the city sit solitary that was full of people, how has she become as a widow, she that was great among the nations, and princess among the provinces; how has she become tributary!"

LETTER FORTY-TWO.

JERUSALEM, Palestine.

First Impression of the Holy City-The Walks-Jaffa Gate-Tower of Hippicus-Our Hotel -Walk to Herod's Palace-The Church of Flagellation-The Via Dolorosa-Church of the Holy Sepulchre-Easter-The Sacred Fire-Folly of the Priests-Emotion upon entering the Holy Tomb.

"How hath the Lord covered the daughter of Zion with a cloud in his anger, and cast down from heaven unto the earth the beauty of Israel, and remembered not his footstool in the day of his anger."

No city assuredly presents a more signal proof of the vicissitude of all earthly affairs than the ancient capital of the Jews. When we behold its crumbling walls, its ditches filled up, and all its buildings encumbered with ruins, we can scarcely realize that our eyes rest upon that renowned city which once withstood the efforts of the most powerful empires, and for a time baffled even the armies of Rome, whose subjects now vie with other religious sects in paying homage and reverence to the mouldering edifices of the fallen city. When we consider its situation and the time of its greatest power, it is difficult to believe what history teaches us relative to its greatness and influence. It possessed none of those natural or artificial advantages that we now consider necessary to insure the growth and prosperity of a city. Situated on the rugged cliffs of Zion, Moriah, and Calvary, encircled by the lofty and barren mountains in its vicinity, remote from every great road, it seems not to have been calculated either for a considerable mart of commerce, or for the centre of a great consumption. But all of these obstacles were overcome, and Jerusalem flourished-proving what patriotism and religion can accomplish in the hands of a good government, or when favored by that Providence which rules and determines the destiny of all things.

The vicissitudes of this Holy City also present to the mind of the historian and politician a problem of the most interesting nature. At one time we see its citizens in bondage, the victims of a relentless tyranny, and menaced with complete extirpation. At a later epoch we behold them swept away as captives by the hands of idolaters; and at length they appear as the instruments of a dispen

sation which embraces the dearest interests of all the human race, and which, in happier circumstances than ever fell to their own lot, has already modified and greatly exalted the character, the institutions, and the prospects of the most improved portion of mankind in both hemispheres of the globe. Connected with Christianity, indeed, the history of the Hebrews rises before the reflecting mind in a manner far exceeding that of all other people. In opposition to their own wishes, they laid the foundations of a religion which has not only superseded their peculiar rites, but is rapidly advancing towards that universal acceptation which they were wont to anticipate in favor of their own ancient law. Abstracting his thoughts from considerations of this nature, a candid man must acknowledge that the course of events which constitutes the history of ancient Palestine, has no parallel in any part of the world. Eighteen hundred years ago, there dwelt in this country a singular and retired people, who differed from the rest of mankind in the very important circumstance of not being idolaters. At the same era all the other nations of the earth were the victims of superstitions of the most hateful and degrading tendency, darkening all the prospects of the human being, and corrupting his moral nature in its very source. Scorned and despised by those powerful empires, their teachings notwithstanding continued to gain ground on every hand, till at last the proud monuments of pagan superstition, consecrated by the worship of a thousand years, and supported by the authority of the most powerful monarchies of the world, fall one after another at the approach of our Saviour's disciples, and before the pervading efficacy of the new faith. The effects produced upon the "hill country of Judea" cannot be solved by reference to the ordinary principles whence mankind are induced to act or to suffer. They exceed all calculation, and it is in vain that we attempt to compare them to those more common revolutions which have changed temporarily the face of nations, or given a new destiny to ancient empires.

From my earliest recollections, when I learned the catechism from my mother's lips, the name of Jerusalem embodied more in my mind than all other names besides, and to the latest day of my life I shall retain a vivid recollection of my emotions when first I gazed upon those dark and mysterious walls that surround the sacred city. I paused and asked myself, Is this Jerusalem? Is this the cherished

object of my pilgrimage? Is this the spot where our Saviour was crucified, buried, and resurrected? And at once all that I could remember of her history, from the patriarch Abraham to Godfrey of Bouillon, came quickly to my mind's eye.

The first object that met my vision in the suburbs were the remains of two enormous stone mills, erected by Ibrahim Pasha, and afterwards destroyed by the Turks. Then came the Turkish cemetery, and the Jaffa Gate, through which we entered. Passing under the shadow of the tall tower of Hippicus, we slided hurriedly down a steep and covered bazaar after the dragoman, knocking first against some slow-motioned Turk, smoking his long-stemmed pipe, and then against the awkward and listless female robed in pure white, and her face covered to avoid the gaze of the rougher sex. At last we reached in safety our hotel, which is very small, but comfortable, being situated in the vicinity of the site of King Solomon's Temple, and kept by a converted Jew named Simeon. Eager to see the sights of the ancient city, we procured the services of a guide, and proceeded first to Herod's second palace. It is constructed of marble-quite handsome and spacious, and the most perfect ruin in the city. Near by are the remains of the Castle of Antonio, and the Church of Flagellation, where our Saviour was scourged. This church is of recent construction, and is situated on the Via Dolorosa, opposite the site of Pilate's House. The walls of the chapel are adorned with paintings representing the sufferings of Christ, and figures in wax are also there to show how he was persecuted by his enemies. The Via Dolorosa is a long and narrow way, about ten feet in width, and certainly the filthiest place that I ever walked through. The different stations were pointed out by the guide representing our Lord's Passion. One was a hole in the side of the wall, said to have been produced when the Virgin stopped and wept; another, a broken column, upon which Christ fell with the cross; and another, the impression of his hand in the solid stone against which he rested himself. These stations are regarded as sacred, and to this day all Christians that pass along the Via Dolorosa stop and leave a kiss, soon to be wiped out by the Jews, who never fail to spit and scorn upon the holy places.

At the extremity of this renowned way stands the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, erected by the Empress Helena on Mount Calvary,