main island, and extending out into the middle of the rapids. Here, the river rushes down a steep descent, and the foaming and tossing waters are angry and disturbed like the waves of the sea after a fierce storm. The extraordinary fascination ascribed Niagara is no myth, and its attractive power no mere fancy of the poet.

The minor drawbacks to visiting Niagara are the great number of tolls and the numerous touts. Regarding the former, if they would only charge so much on arrival, instead of giving you the trouble of putting your hand in your pocket every time you look at the Falls, it would be pleasanter; as for the latter, not one of them ought to be allowed near the place. If there is one thing more wanted than another, it is a pleasant drive or ride without a toll-gate at every mile, and this could be easily made along the shore of the Niagara river towards La Salle. The Goat Island toll is right enough, as keeping up the bridges and other expenses are incurred; but all other tolls are wrong, being wholly unnecessary.

On the second day we drove over the magnificent suspension-bridge to the Canadian side, whence we had a fine full view of both Falls. The garrulous driver was very careful to point out the exact spot where Blondin crossed on the tight-rope. It was a long way below the Falls, and therefore no more danger incurred

than in walking on a rope stretched across the fountains of the Crystal Palace-perhaps not even so much. This and another spot, from which somebody once jumped into the river, were evidently of much deeper interest to the mind of our Jehu than the glorious Falls themselves. We were inveigled into a house in front of the Horse-shoe Fall by the assurance of the proprietor that the view from the top was magnificent, and that no charge was made; but the view did not seem to us finer from above than from below. Incautiously entering another room, we discovered a shop full of photographs, Indian fans, &c. (made in Birmingham, probably), and offered for sale by some fascinating young ladies, who could not allow us to leave without a souvenir of Niagara.

We were afterwards induced to change our clothes for waterproof ones, and to descend with a guide beneath, or rather behind the Fall. I am not sure that this part of the programme repaid us for getting very hot and wet; but the proprietor when he had pocketed our dollars seemed to think it all right-so we had to look comfortable and happy.. A slight shade passed over his countenance when he found he could not induce us to be photographed in connection with the Falls,' as he expressed it. But that soon passed off, as he saw a carriage-load of gay tourists approaching, 'got up,' apparently, with the intention of having their likenesses

taken, not only in connection with the Falls,' but in any other aspiring position that the artist might suggest. On our return to the American side we were asked if we had any articles to declare; but as we had no specimens of Niagara spar, fresh from Derbyshire, and no curious Indian-Parisian bead-work or embroidery, and the few photographs were considered too insignificant for duty, we were allowed to pass free.

The rapids, below the Falls, and the whirlpool, still lower down, well deserve a visit, although the romance of the former is rather diminished by an elevator which takes visitors up and down the cliff. The view on reaching the water's edge is exceedingly fine—the rushing torrent eddying down, and the wild waste of whirling water being a sight second only to the Falls themselves.

We saw a great many beautiful birds, both in the surrounding woods and on the islands. There were two or three sorts of orioles, blue-birds, cardinal grosbeaks, and numbers of the American robins; birds as ubiquitous as our sparrows, and about the size of a large blackbird. Unfortunately, they are considered good eating, and therefore, as they are very tame, become an easy prey to every little wretch who carries a gun.

Many stories are told of victims hurried down the rapids; now clinging to a rock against which the strong current has carried them, and now swept on

again by its resistless force, until, with a last shriek, they disappear for ever in the cruel waters of the mighty Fall. These stories are all too true; since our visit two boats and their occupants have in this way been lost. When will thoughtless mortals learn that the treacherous current draws slowly but surely on till they are beyond earthly aid? Not, I suppose, until the great St. Lawrence is dried up, and the hanging cliffs of the giant Falls can be ascended from their base.

But we must be speeding onwards; and so with a farewell look at Niagara, as we cross the great suspension-bridge on our way to Chicago, we leave behind us one of the grandest of Nature's handiworks.

We make our journey to Chicago in a 'Silver Palace Drawing-room and Sleeping-car;' and as there is not much outside to claim our attention, we may as well occupy ourselves with an examination of this renowned invention of the New World. The only visible articles of furniture are sofa-seats, placed vis-à-vis, and the inevitable spittoons. The latter nasty articles intrude themselves everywhere. It is all very well for Americans to say, 'You do not find them in the abundance often stated;' all I can say is, you do find them whereever you go, and, what is worse, see a constant use of them. It is said they owe their origin to the devil, and the story runs thus: When the Christian navi

gators first discovered America the devil was greatly annoyed, and was afraid (without reason, I think) of losing his hold on the people there. However, he whispered in confidence to some of his Indian friends and acquaintance that he had found out a way of being revenged on the new-comers. He would teach them, he said, to chew tobacco, and that the filthy habit should cling to them for ever, and make them a byeword among the nations.' He certainly has kept his word.

As our sleeping-car' afforded no signs of sleeping accommodation, I waited with curiosity for bedtime. It came at last, and the chamber-maid, in the shape of a black-man, entered, and asked me to move, as he was going to make the beds. He then gave a pull upon the sofa-cushions on each side, and the bottom ones came together in the original space between the seats, whilst the back ones took the places of these; a sufficiently good sort of arrangement on which to make up a bed. A handle above was then pulled, and what had looked like part of the ceiling of the car came down to within about three feet of the lower bed. This formed the attic. From out of this concealed bedstead came a couple of mattresses, one of which was placed on the lower bed, the other remaining for the occupant of the story above. Sheets, blankets, and pillows were then produced from the same recess, and