Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed
Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2004 - 168 pagina's
Over time and across cultures, extraordinary manipulations of the body have occurred in a continuing evolution of the concept of beauty. Fashion can be seen as the practice of some of the most extreme strategies to conform to shifting concepts of the physical ideal. Various zones of the body--the neck, the shoulders, the bust, the waist, the hips, and the feet--have been constricted, padded, truncated, or extended through subtle visual adjustments of proportion, less subtle prosthesis, and, often, deliberate physical deformation.
This stunning book shows that an undeniable if uncanny beauty abides in the bundled cylindricality of a geisha tottering on raised geta or clogs; the tea-tray supporting bustle of an 1880s French visiting dress; the double-door expanse of eighteenth-century panniered court gowns; the bound feet and caged nails of aristocratic Manchu women; the neck-extending chokers of the Masai, of Edwardian beauties, and of John Galliano's designs for Dior; or the waist suppression of the sixteenth-century iron corsets and the cinches of early-nineteenth-century dandies. The photographs of fashion are augmented by paintings, prints, and drawings, including caricatures by Gilray, Cruikshank, Daumier, and Vernet.
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Foreword by Philippe de Montebello Introduction
Neck and Shoulders
aesthetic Alexander McQueen Art Resource artiﬁcial attenuated body body’s breasts bust bustle buttocks chemise Christian Dior collar conﬁguration contemporary corset Costume Institute created crinoline hoops Cristobal Balenciaga cultural depicted designs Dinka dress effect eighteenth century exaggerated exempliﬁed Extreme Beauty facing fall-winter farthingale Fashion Institute ﬁgure ﬁrst Firstview.com ﬂat ﬂattened ﬂesh foot front garments Gift gown Haute Couture hipline hips Hussein Chalayan ideal illustrated above left inﬂated introduced Issey Miyake Jean Paul Gaultier John Galliano Karin lace lotus mannequins Mark Morosse Martin Margiela men’s Metropolitan Museum Museum of Art neck neckline nineteenth century nude oil on canvas Padaung pads panniers period Photograph Studio platform portrait proﬁle Rei Kawakubo ribcage ruff Saint Laurent seen shape shoes shoulder shoulderline shown above left shown above right silhouette skirt sleeves spring-summer structure style Thierry Mugler toes torso transformation upper Vivienne Westwood VVith waist waistline Walter van Beirendonck Willis woman women worn