even in their chambers--so watched rounded and the travellers ordered that, as it is recorded, the queen to alight, Louis had proudly defied being one night unable to sleep, the the insolent command, and bade National Guard on duty at her open the soldiers fire, how quickly the door offered to come in and con- “pale paralysis” of baffled rage verse with her majesty awhile, con- would have seized Drouet and his versation being sometimes condu- eight patriots of good-will; how the cive to sleep.

froth of ruffianism they had evoked Even at this distance, when we would have melted away before that read the history of the flight to imperial word, and slunk out of Varennes, it has the exciting effect sight, while the monarch fared on of a fresh tale. We hold our breath, his way along the high-road, the and fancy that still at the last some troops sweeping back all possible deliverer will arrive just as all is pursuers, and landing the destinies lost; some accident will prevent of France safe beyond the reach of Drouet from reaching the scene in regicidal hands! All this was so time; the fugitives will clear the much more likely to be than that bridge, and the mob be prevented which was!. The reason why it by the soldiers from pursuing them. was not is so mysterious! Enough Never, even in the history of those that it was not; that the bloody most unfortunate of princes, the deed of January the acth was to Stuarts, was there a series of mis- consummate the outrages and sufhaps, blunders, and accidents such ferings of the Night of Spurs; and as make up the chapter of the that the fate of France was not flight to Varennes. It is idle to shaped to a different issue, as we, conjecture what would have hap- in our short-sighted philosophy, pened if it had ended differently. fancy might so easily have been If, when the berlin was first sur- done.


Doth no man condemn thee? And she answered, No man, Lord."

WOMAN! thou’rt over-confident and sure
To answer thus the Infinitely Pure !
How knowest thou that He does not condemn,
And will not cast at thee th' avenging stone ?"
“The pure are merciful.

His stratagem
Has left me to be judged by such alone.”


The Golden Lion of Weggis can by the most lovely views of land scarcely be said to resemble its now and water, removed from the rush famed namesake of Granpère. It and bustle which somewhat jar on shows neither coach-house, stable, the sentimental traveller at Vitzfarmyard, nor bustling village life nau, and even at Gersau, still with around it, and yet there is the one the pleasant splash of the steamers point of a certain homeliness in as they halt alongside the shady common which suggests that it too pier, only making just sufficient may have seen many a simple ro- noise to remind him that, though mance acted out beneath its roof, not of the world, he can still be in and have had its share in many a it whenever, or fly whithersoever, life's heart-story. It is difficult to his fancy may impel him. Yes: imagine sentiment of any kind in every steamer, backwards and forconnection with the monster hotels, wards, stops at Weggis, though genor rather caravansaries, of modern erally merely to drop a stray tra!'Switzerland. But this is a true inn, eller-a man with alpenstock and in the olden acceptation of the knapsack, or two ladies with their word; modest and sedate enough waterproofs neatly strapped across to feel elated at the arrival of new their shoulders, thereby betraying guests, who are welcomed by the their recent arrival from “ fatherlandlord himself, and instinctively land beyond the Rhine." And made to understand that he will every one walks leisurely and with personally see to their comfort and consequent dignity on shore, as proper attendance. At first sight though life and plenty of time to it appears to be overshadowed by a enjoy it in were still at their comnew and larger neighbor; but the mand. No feverish train is in the Golden Lion does not care, for he background; indeed, it cannot be enjoys the advantage of mature age even seen on the mountain sky-line and well-established fame, and just- from Weggis, so that strangers may ly prides himself. on his old custo- pause and dine at ease up-stairs in mers, whose constancy is a good the clean, airy table-dhóte room of tribute to his honesty and civility. the Golden Lion, sip their coffee Some who knew him in the quieter on its wide balcony facing the times of Rigi history still come and Uri-Rothstock and Rigi-Nasen, or spend two or three days here when lunch à la carte in the leafy arbor going to, or returning from, the of the garden, which is more trim mountain, and it was one of these and inviting than its counterpart 2! faithful friends who had recom- Granpère. mended us to choose it in prefer- It was overpoweringly hot when ence to the larger establishment of we landed from the Helvetia, the more modern date. Truly, no spot sun bearing down with that full seems more suitable for a romance. force which so often follows j Situated on the lake, surrounded heavy shower; and the leafy arbor

in question irresistibly attracted us well-placed seat inviting to a most by its deep shade and cool, refresh- enjoyable dolce far niente close by ing shelter. Here we resolved to the pellucid waters, without sound dine, in order to strengthen the to disturb poetic musings; bright "inner being " and let the noonday coloring and full foliage forming a hours of heat glide by before at- framework to the exquisite landtempting the ascent to Kaltbad, scape which extends beyond. Nowhich promised to be a matter of thing could be more romantic, rural, two and a half hours at the least. or tranquillizing to soul and body; The landlord was loud in praise of but before long, prompted by my his horses and men—"well known “natural female curiosity,” as Mr. before that Vitznau railway ex- C- ungallantly styled it, I proisted," he said in a tone rather posed a saunter through the vilcontemptuous of such an up- lage. “There is nothing whatever start. “

* The price of each only six to see," he retorted. Still, with francs to Kaltbad, fixed according much good-nature, he immediately to the tariff.” And here an ejacu- offered to accompany his wife and lation in praise of this tariff system, me in our rambles. It certainly penetrating even to the heart of was true in the ordinary sense of the mountain, may perhaps be al- the term. There was nothing very lowed to us. None but those who remarkable to behold; still, the have benefited by it can under- Swiss villages are always pleasant stand the advantage of being able to look at, especially in these forest thus to calculate beforehand the cantons, and of this class Weggis is expense of every excursion, nor the an excellent specimen. It has unspeakable comfort it brings when, probably seen its palmiest days, on reaching the hotel at night, and is at present thrust aside by tired and sleepy, you know that the the hitherto despised sister, Vitzguide cannot cheat you, and he nau, now in the spring-tide of her feels you cannot cheat him. No charms, who seems to toss her head one thing contributes more to en- at her elderly and passée rival with sure peace or conduces to happy the conceit of young life and energy. wanderings. Nor does any man Yet there no signs of decay. Far more surely “ deserve well of his from it. It has a steady, old-fash: country " than that Swiss, whoever ioned commune life of its own, quite he may have been, who first pro- independent of the tourist element, posed this arrangement; and after which only comes in-very opporhim we must be grateful to those tunely, no doubt-to help it on its authorities who have so well car- way. As at Gersau and many of ried it out. The dinner was the these places, the population is next matter for consultation be- much smaller than appearances tween Mr. C- and mine host, warrant, owing chiefly to the subwhich ultimately ended in the lat- stantial size of the houses and the ter promising to do his best, and to straggling, independent manner in have it ready in three-quarters of which they are placed. Sometimes an hour or thereabouts.

a dwelling stands endwise or sideBesides the arbor, the Golden wise to the road, just as the whim Lion boasts of a tea-house and a of the ancestral great-great-grandswimming or bath house projecting father who built it centuries ago into the lake, and also many a

dictated. The walls are now man


tled with vines, bright blue eyes superabundance of white ribbon; peep through casements embosom- but not until quite near did we ed in leaves, gardens of glowing notice a poor disconsolate mother sun-flowers and fig-trees laden with decorating the grave of her childfruit surround the cottages, while her little engel, or angel, as they art here and there a noble Spanish so often styled on the tiny headciestnut throws its deep shade on stones crosses. She did not all around. The street-road was mind the sun, nor our presence almost deserted as he passed along, either, but went on with her work, on account of the strong sun; but while large tears rolled unchecken many buxom, pleasant-faced ma- down her cheeks. And this part is trons sat working at their doors, in a striking spot, right under the while chubby children played be- northern angle of the Rigi, the neath the trees hard by. Though straight rocks of which rise perpeninnocent of manufactories, and far dicularly from a green slope of pasmore rural in its general aspect ture-land behind the village church, and atmosphere than Gersau, the covered with large boulders and whole place breathes of prosperity débris that seem to corroborate all and comfort. It gives the impres- the stories of land-slips and stonesion, too, of greater space; for it is rolling so common in this region. not shut in on all sides, and the Standing here, it was easy to unopen slopes extend much further derstand the most noted of these back before they reach the precipi- events—the mud - slide of 1795, tous mountain-side.

which threatened Weggis with deAnd in accordance with this cha- struction. Thirty-one houses and racter is the church, which stands eighty acres of land were buried on a slight eminence at the end of beneath the creeping mass. It 06the village. The cemetery too, curred, like the fall of the Rossthough large and thoroughly well berg, after a peculiarly rainy seas cared for, is more simple, and has Though the story says that none of those pretty monuments the slide was preceded by ominous that lend such poetry and beauty symptoms, the earth so much reto the Camenzind-Küttel resting- sembles rich garden-mould, and place. But, if not, it possesses a looks so loose and friable, that, te very handsome stone crucifix in collecting yesterday's rain, it made one angle—evidently a recent erec- me quite nervous to look at it. tion, and of which Weggis may Had I stayed gazing upwards much well be proud-with the following longer, I felt that I would certainly inscriptions on the base : “ Praise have fancied it was beginning be to Jesus Christ in all eternity”; move downwards. “What an idea!" on the front facing the entrance : exclaimed Mr. C--, laughing “See, is there any sorrow like unto "the effect of nerves and sun combin my sorrow ?” and “In the cross is ed! The church-door is open, salvation and benediction” on ei- the sanctuary lamp burning; ther side ; whilst on the back, close would be much wiser and bette? to the Mortuary Chapel, the words for you to enter in!" Saying which, run thus: “Gentle Jesus, grant he preceded me into the sacred eternal rest to all departed souls." building. The children's quarter, too, was re- Large, clean, and simple, 25.1 markable for its fresh flowers and rural church should be, it had three


and SON

distinguishing points: first, an altar Such a clean Kellnerinn waited updedicated to S. Justus, one of the on us, and the Gastherr himself patron saints of Weggis, who was all smiles and conversation ! The an archbishop of Lyons in the first beautiful trout too, “ fresh from centuries of its Christianity, thus the Muotta-'Thal, just brought by affording, as in the case of S. Leo- the steamer from Brunnen.” The degar, another proof of the early Muotta valley! ecclesiastical connection between “ But what's in a name ?" said Switzerland and the Frank Empire. Mrs. CNext, a large processional banner “A great deal more than we acplaced near the altar, and compos- knowledge," I answered. cd simply of the national standard This one struck again the chord -the beautiful white cross on the of Schwytz and the “ Urschweiz" in red ground—whose position in this our minds, but perhaps much more spot it puzzled us to explain. that of Soovorof and the hard fightLastly, the model of a boat suspend- ing on the surrounding crags of the ed from the ceiling, with two sailors Muotta between his Russians and rowing, whilst a bishop in full can- the French. Mr. C- knew the onicals stood erect in the stern, locality, and waxed eloquent on the in the act of giving them his bene- subject, until interrupted by an army diction. It looked like an ex-voto, of-wasps! attracted by some debut our communicative landlord licious cream with which our landlater informed us that it was the lord wound up the dinner. It be. emblem of the Guild of S. Nicholas, came a regular battle, and a doubt"patron of all who navigate upon fulone at first, waged in self-defence. the lake." Every Weggis man “Never had there been such a year who has anything to do with the for wasps,” said our host, slaying a water belongs to the confraternity. couple so dexterously with his napBefore steamers existed they num- kin that it betrayed considerable bered many hundreds, and, though practice in the art. "But it had altoof late the village occupations have gether been a prosperous season been turned into other channels, two more knocked down by Mrs. the numbers are still numerous C- “So no one had a right to enough; for boats and smaller complain"-three or four more timcraft are even now much used on idly but effectually killed by Mrs. the lake. The confraternity is C- and myself. “The villagers still full of life and vigor. The had made a great deal of money by Feast of S. Nicholas is religiously their fruit and flowers carried up the kept in the village. The members mountain by their children,” he conof the Guild often assemble, but on tinued; until at last, counting our that day they go in a body to victims by tens and twenties during church, accompanied by their wives this running dialogue, we were left and families, to offer thanks for the in peaceful possession of the scene, past and implore protection for and ready to hear wonderful rethe coming year.

ports of Weggis prosperity. The Who shall describe our charming Golden Lion evidently would have little dinner in the deep-shaded been pleased to keep us longer, arbor, with the glowing sun-color but the horses were waiting and lighting up the mountains, seen the afternoon advancing; so, dethrough its leaf-framed openings? spite the attractions - minus the

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