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its summit it rises 260 feet, and a stately man-of-war, with all her canvas set, could pass uninjured under its noble span. It consists of 19 spans, each of double chains composed of 15 bars; the two central spans, resting upon a main central pillar driven into the solid rock through 70 feet of sea and 20 feet of soil, extend 900 feet. The lower span carries the railway, the upper, of wrought iron, is firmly attached to it. The main piers, on each side of the river, are 11 feet square, of solid masonry, and 190 feet from base to crown. 2700 tons of wrought iron, 1300 tons of cast iron, 14,000 cubic yards of timber, and 17,000 cubic yards of stone, were employed in the erection of this wonderful bridge. It was opened with much pomp on the 2d of May 1859, by H.R.H. the Prince Consort.

We have thus completed our voyage along the southern coast of beautiful Devon, and we must transport our companion and ourselves bodily across the county to commence an exploration of its northern shore. But for the convenience of the visitor to Plymouth we shall, as usual, indicate those places in its neighbourhood which are most worthy of a visit.

[HINTS FOR RAMBLES.-1. Excursions may be made to rocky MOUNT BATTEN, the LARA BRIDGE, and ORESTON QUARRIES,-a day's sail of infinite beauty and variety; or, 2. to BOVISAND BAY, and thence, across the Sound to the Rame Head, Penlee Point, Cawsands Bay, MAKER (St. Maria) CHURCH, nearly 400 feet above the sea, and MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 3. A long but pleasant day may be enjoyed in a sail up the Tamar, to the WEIR HEAD, 22 m., drinking there a libation to the spirit of the stream.

"By breezy hills,

And soft retiring dales, by smiling lawns,

Bold headlands dark with umbrage of the groves,

By towns, and villages, and mansions fair,

And rocks magnificent, the potent rush

Of the mysterious Ocean has impell'd
Our bark to-day."—(Carrington).

The MORWELL ROCKS, near the Weir, will specially excite the voyager's admiration, but the whole course of the river is through a fairy land of singular enchantment. 4. TO TAVISTOCK is a walk of 13 miles, but such a thirteen miles as few English counties can equal. If the tourist does not feel weary, he may-after a draught of some "barley wine, the good liquor," as old Izaak Walton calls it, "our honest forefathers did use to drink of; the drink which preserved their health, and made them live so long, and do so many good deeds"-cross to NEW BRIDGE, and follow, as near as may be, the course of the Tamar down to BEER FERRIS; from thence, returning into Plymouth by way of ST. BUDEAUX. This is a walk for a stout pedestrian. He who is weak about the knees should return from Tavistock by rail. 5. There is pleasant scenery on the Totness road, and the tourist should not fail to visit the old stannery town of PLYMPTON, and its ruined castle, Brixton, Yealmpton, Ugborough, and SOUTH BRENT, returning by rail. 6. At PLYMSTOCK,

about 4 m. on the Dartmouth road, there are some pretty rural views. The walk should be prolonged to Wembury. 7, and lastly, IVY BRIDGE, on the Erme, is 7 m. from Plymouth, and whoever goes there once will wish to go there again.]

ROUTE II-Along the Coast.-North.

HARTLAND to LYNTON.

The sun is warm, the sky is clear,

The waves are dancing fast and bright;
Blue isles and snowy mountains wear

The purple noon's transparent light

I see the Deep's untrampled floor,

With green and purple sea-weed strown;

I see the waves upon the shore,

Like light dissolved in star-showers, thrown.

SHELLEY.

[Hartland to Clovelly, 8 m.; Bar Harbour (for Bideford), 11 m.; Baggy Point, 6 m.; Morthoe, 4 m.; Morte Point, 1 m.; Bull Point, 2 m.; Ilfracombe, 3 m.; Combe Martin, 4 m.; Martinhoe, 5 m.; Lynton, 4 m.]

A small brook marks the boundary line between Devon and Cornwall, and gives name to the picturesque little village of WELLCOMBE (population, 234). From Wellcombe to HARTLAND (population 2183), the waters dash against an impenetrable barrier of lofty cliffs, riven into curious fissures, and spotted with lichens and ivy. At Hartland Quay a few cottages cluster about the beach, and the fishing-boats lie moored under its curved pier. The coast is dangerous, and the sea continually frets and seethes about the sunken rocks. The POINT, a swarthy headland, 350 feet high, is the promontory of the Tyrian Hercules, alluded to by the old geographer Ptolemy. Upon Milford beach a bright and shimmering cascade falls in three bold leaps; and beyond rises the semi-conical height of St. Catherine's Tor, where the ruins of a Roman villa were discovered some years ago. It once stood inland; but time has been silently at work, and separated it from the mainland-a stout and gray old wall still standing upon the grassy sward.

HARTLAND ABBEY (Sir G. Stukeley, Bart.) is a stately mansion, reposing, amid luxuriant woods, on a green and pleasant valley-slope. Of the ancient monastery--founded by the Coun

tess Elgitha in grateful commemoration of the escape of her husband, Earl Godwin, from shipwreck, and dedicated to St. Nectan, in whose interposition she believed, -the present mansion embodies the Decorated arched cloister, built by Abbot John of Exeter. The effigy of a Crusader is also preserved. The park was formerly famous for its numerous herds of deer. The family of Stukeley has long been established in this part of Devon. One of its members, Sir Thomas Stukeley, temp. Elizabeth, a gallant and courtly knight, well practised in the wars," planned the colonization of Florida; and another, Sir Lewis Stukeley, was the false friend and treacherous kinsman who damned himself to eternal infamy by his betrayal of Raleigh.

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"Each is

The voyager, as he sails along this romantic coast, cannot fail to be struck with the admirable beauty of its ferny combes and leafy hollows, each opening through its gorge of down and rock, upon the gleaming waters of the Western Sea. like the other, and each is like no other English scenery. Each has its upright walls, inlaid of rich oak-wood, nearer the sea of dark-green furze, then of smooth turf, then of weird black cliffs, which range out right and left far into the deep sea, in castles, spires, and wings of jagged iron-stone. Each has its narrow strip of fertile meadow, its crystal trout-streain winding across and across from one hill-foot to the other; its grey stone mill, with the water sparkling and humming round the dripping wheel; its dark rock pools above the tide mark, where the salmon-trout gather in from their Atlantic wanderings, after each autumn flood; its ridge of blown sand, bright with golden trefoil and crimson lady's finger; its grey bank of polished pebbles, down which the stream rattles towards the sea below. Each has its black field of jagged shark's tooth rock, which paves the cove from side to side, streaked with here and there a pink line of shell sand, and laced with white foam from the eternal surge, stretching in parallel lines out to the westward, in strata set upright on edge, or tilted towards each other at strange angles by primeval earthquakes; such is the 'Mouth,' as those caves are called; and such the jaw of teeth which they display, one rasp of which would grind abroad the timbers of the stoutest ship. To landward, all richness, softness, and peace; to seaward, a waste and howling wilderness of rock and roller, barren to the fisherman, and hopeless to the shipwrecked mariner "(Kingsley.) One of these is named MARSLAND MOUTH, and will (s.w.)

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be recognized by the tourist as the scene of the interview between the "White Witch" of "Westward Ho!" and the "Rose of Torridge." It is the only one where a landing for boats is practicable, and is protected from the sweeping billows of the Atlantic by a long barrier of rock. At night, the sea-waters gleam here with multitudinous life

"The lamps of the sea-nymphs,

Myriad fiery globes, swim heaving and panting, and rainbows,
Crimson, and azure, and emerald, are broken in star showers,

lighting

Far through the wine-dark depths of the crystal, the gardens of
Nereus,

Coral, and sea-fan, and tangle, the blooms and the palms of the
ocean."

The BLACK CHURCH rocks have been fretted by the sea into large natural arches, through which a skiff may safely pass. All along the coast there is much to rivet the attention, and when CLOVELLY (pop. 937, New Inn), is seen, hanging, as it were, to the side of a steep but luxuriantly wooded hill, the tourist's admiration rises to a climax. It is almost difficult to discern the houses, so thick is the leafy screen in which each is environed. The street resembles a winding staircase, each house representing a step, and is probably the most precipitous in England. To get up and down it, is a trying task for weak nerves. Yet the view from "the house tops," is picturesque in the extreme, and from some points it seems as if the blue sea were inclosed in a framework of oak-leaves. On each side, a small brook leaps over stone and pebble, downward to the beach, where a few tall poplars, some houses, and a stone pier, built by George Carey, in the reign of Richard II., and enlarged about sixty years ago, complete the picture. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in the herring fishery.

It was from this port, after remaining three days at Clovelly, that Rowland Stephenson, the fraudulent banker and M.P. for Leominster, escaped, with his clerk, in a skiff to Milford Haven (January 2, 1829), and thence to North America. Stephenson was the original, we believe, of Richard Crawford, in Bulwer Lytton's novel of "The Disowned."

CLOVELLY DIKES occupy a lofty position near the coast, on the Hartland road. A Roman via which, in parts, may still be

traced, ran from hence to Launceston, showing that the old menof-war of imperial Rome appreciated the commanding position of the British camp. The three trenches vary from 18 to 20 feet in depth; the diameter of the outer trench is 1300 feet, the inner one forms a parallelogram of about 360 by 300 feet. GALLANTRY BOWER is the remarkable name given to a steep and lofty cliff, which overlooks a glorious landscape; its height is 380 feet. Inland lies CLOVELLY COURT (Sir J. H. Williams, Bart.), a well-looking mansion, erected in 1780. The grounds, of great beauty, are thrown open to the pedestrian, who wanders amid lichen-covered crags, shadowy glens opening suddenly upon the sea, and rich ferny combes, the fitting haunts of Titania. The park was once famous for its hawks“ a Clovelly hawk against the world!" and is still rich in the music of its birds, and the light and odour of its wild flowers.

We shall not pause to notice each romantic glen, each sparkling and shimmering waterfall, each rough and craggy rock that lend a strange weird charm to this wonderful coast. As the voyager glides along he will find at every point some rare and curious object. If he lands and examines the rocky hollows he will find a world of life in each.

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Living flowers,

Which, like a bed compact,

Their purple cups contract,

And now, in open blossom spread,

Stretch like green anthers many a seeking head."

SOUTHEY.

The varying strata, and their peculiar contortions, will become the study of the geologist. While for the artist there are such picturesque effects, such wonderful contrasts of light and shade, such delectable bowers and happy recesses, that his pencil need never be idle!

And now we have reached BIDEFORD HARBOUR, or BARNSTAPLE BAY, as it is sometimes called; the mouth of the river Torridge, and the seaport of the once wealthy town of BIDEFORD, or Br'-THE-FORD (population, 5775. Inns: New, and Parramore's), 242 miles from London, by rail, and 9 miles from Barnstaple. Crossing the bar which obstructs the mouth of the haven, and ascending the river, we soon catch sight of " the little white town of Bideford, sloping upwards from its broad tide-river, paved with

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