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The most interesting figure to me was she was almost enveloped in a pure white that of the reforming heir, the bigoted veil of a fine woollen material, spangled Moslem, in his gold-colored baju, with his with gold stars, and she concealed so swarthy face, singular and almost sinister much of her face with it, in consequence expression, and his total lack of all West of the presence of the Rajah Moussa, that ern fripperies of dress. I think that there 1.only rarely got a glimpse of the magnifimay be trouble when he comes to the cent diamond solitaires in her ears. Our throne — at least, if the present arrange- conversation was not brilliant, and the ments continue. He does not look like a sultana looked to me as if she had atman who would be content to be a mere tained nirvana, and had “neither ideas registrar of the edicts of "a dog of an nor the consciousness of the absence of infidel.”
ideas." We returned and took leave of The sultan has a "godown" containing the sultan, and after we left I caught a great treasures, concerning which he leads glimpse of him lounging at ease in a white an anxious life, hoards of diamonds and shirt and red sarong, all his gorgeousness rubies, and priceless damascened krises, having disappeared. with scabbards of pure gold, wrought into After we returned to the bungalow the marvellous devices, and incrusted with sultan sent me a gift. Eight attendants precious stones. On Mr. Douglas's sug- dressed in pure white came into the room gestion (as I under he sent a kris, in single file, nd, each bowing to the with an elaborate gold scabbard, to the earth, set down a brass salver, with its governor, saying, “It is not from the sul contents covered with a pure white cloth. tan to the governor, but from a friend to Again bowing, they uncovered them, and a friend." He seems anxious for Sělân. displayed the fruitage of the tropics. gor to “get on.” He is making a road at There were young coconuts, gold-colored Bukit Jugra at his own expense, and, act. bananas of the kind which the sultan eats, ing doubtless under British advice, he papayas, and clusters of a species of has very cordially agreed that the odious jambu, a pear-shaped fruit, beautiful to system of debt slavery shall be quietly look at, each fruit looking as if made of dropped from among the institutions of some transparent, polished white wax with Sělângor.
a pink flush on one side. The Rajah When this audience was over I asked Moussa also arrived and took coffee, and to be allowed to visit the sultana, and, with the verandahs were filled with his followMrs. Ferney as interpreter, went to the ers. Every rajah goes about attended, harem, accompanied by the Rajah Moussa. and seems to be esteemed according to It is a beautiful house, of one very large the size of his following. lofty room, part of which is divided into We left this remote and beautiful place apartments by heavy silk curtains. One at noon, and after a delightful cruise of end of it is occupied by a high daïs cov- five hours among islands floating on a ered with fine mats, below which is an- waveless sea, we reached dreary, decayed other daïs, covered with Persian carpets. Klang in the evening. On this the sultana received us, the Rajah
The Residency, Klang, Moussa, who is not her son, and ourselves
February 7th. sitting on chairs. If I understood rightly I have had two days of supposed quiet that this prince is not her son, I do not here after the charming expedition to see how it is that he can go into the wom. Langat. The climate seems very healthy. en’s apartments. Two guards sat on the The mercury has been 87° daily, but then floor just within the door, and numbers of falls to 74o at night. The barometer, women, some of them in white veils, fol. as is usual so near the equator, varies lowers of the sultana, sat in rows also on only a few tenths of an inch during the the floor.
year. The rainfall is about one hundred It must be confessed that the “light of inches annually. It is most abundant in the harem” is not beautiful; she looks January, February, and March, and at the nearly middle-aged. She is short and fat, change of the monsoon in May and June, with a flat nose, open wide nostrils, thick and there is enough all the year round to lips, and filed teeth, much blackened by keep vegetation in beauty. Here, on unbetel-nut chewing. Her expression is interesting cleared land, with a featureless pleasant, and her manner is prepossess- foreground, and level mangrove swamps
She wore a rich striped red-silk for the middle distance, it must be terribly sarong, and a very short green silk ka- monotonous to have no change of seasons, baya, with diamond clasps; but I saw no hope of the mercury falling below Soo very
little of her dress or herself, because lin the daytime, or of a bracing wind, or of
any Niurkea climatic changes for better or and claws, crocodiles' teeth, bears' teeth,
etc. The mosquitos are awful, but after a On our return, four Malay women, in few months of more or less suffering the cluding the inaum's wife, came to see people who live here become inoculated me. Each one would have made a picby the poison, and are more bothered than turesque picture, but they had no man. hurt by the bites. I am almost succumb. ners, and seized on my hands, which are ing to them. The ordinary ones are bad coarsened, reddened, and swelled from enouglı, for just when the evenings be- heat and mosquito-bites, all exclaiming come cool, and sitting on the verandah " Chanti! Chanti!” (pretty! pretty!). I would be enjoyable, they begin their foray, wondered at their bad taste, specially as and specially attack the feet and ankles, they had very small and pretty hands but the tiger mosquitos of this region themselves, with almond-shaped nails. bite all day, and they do embitter life. In the evening the “establishment” In the evening all the gentlemen put on dined at the residency. After dinner, as sarongs over their trousers to protect we sat in the darkness in the verandah, themselves, and ladies are provided with maddened by mosquito-bites, about 9.30 sarongs which we draw over our feet and the bugle at the fort sounded the “alarm, dresses, but these pests bite through two which was followed in a few seconds by “ply” of silk or cotton, and in spite of all the drum beating “to quarters,” and in precautions, l'am dreadfully bitten on less than five minutes every approach to my arms, feet, and ankles, which are so the residency was held by men with fixed swollen that I can hardly draw on my bayonets, and fourteen rounds of ballsleeves, and for iwo days stockings have cartridges each in their belts, and every been an impossibility, and I have had to road round Klang, was being patrolled by sew up my feet daily in linen! The swell. piquets. I knew instinctively that it was jogs from the bites have become conflu-" humbug," arranged to show the celerity ent, and are scarlet with inflammation. It with which the little army could be turned is truly humiliating that “the crown of out; and shortly an orderly arrived with things" cannot defend himself against a note “ False alarm;” but Klany never these minute enemies, and should be subsided all night, and the Klings beat made as miserable as I am just now. their tomtoms till dayliglit. I am writing
But it is a most healthy climate, and at dawn now, in order that my letter may when I write of mosquitos, land leeches, “ catch the mail.” centipedes, and snakes, I have said my
Steam-Launch Abdulsamat, say as to its evils. I will now confess
February 7th. that I was bitten by a centipede in my You will certainly think, from the dates bath-house in Sungei Ujong, but I at of my letters, that I am usually at sea. once cut the bite deeply with a penknife, The resident, his daughter, Mrs. Daly, squeezed it, and poured ammonia reck- Mr. Hawley, a revenue-officer, and I, left lessly over it, and in a few hours the pain Klang this morning at eight for a two and swelling went off.
days' voyage in this bit of a thing. I have been to the fort, the large bar- Blessed be the belt of calms”! There rack of the military police, and Mr. Syers was the usual pomp of a body.guard, some showed me many things. In the first of whom are in attendance, and a military place, a snake about eight feet long was display on the pier, well-drilled, and well let out and killed. The Malays call this a officered in quiet, capable, admirable, un"two-headed "snake, and there is enough obtrusive Mr. Syers; but gentle Mrs. to give rise to the ignorant statement, for Douglas, devoted to her helpless daughafter the proper head was dead the tail ter, standing above the jetty, a lone white stood up and moved forwards. The skin woman in forlorn, decayed Klang, haunts of this reptile was marked throughout me as a vision of sadness, as I think of with broad bands of black and white al. her sorrow and her dignified hospitality ternately. There was an ill-favored skull in the midst of it. of a crocodile hanging up to dry, with Now at half past eleven we are aground teeth three inches long. One day lately with an ebb-tide on the bar of the Sělâna poor hadji was carried off by one, gor River, so I may write a little, though and shortly afterwards this monster was I should like to be asleep. caught, and on opening it they found the Yesterday, after a detention on the bar, skull of the hadji, part of his body, a we steamed up the broad, muddy Sělânbit of his clothing, and part of a goat. gor River, margined by bubbling slime, I brought away as spoils tigers' teeth on which alligators were basking in the
torrid sun, to Sělângor. Here the Dutch (inland mosquitos, but we must have had a fort on the top of the hill. We de- brought some with us, for I was maligo stroyed it in August, 1871.
nantly bitten. Mrs. Daly and I shared Sělângor is a most wretched place - the lack of privacy and comfort of the worse than Klang. On one side of the cabin. Perfect though the “ Abdulsamat" river there is a fishing village of mat and is, there is very little rest to be got in a attap hovels on stilts raised a few feet small and over-crowded vessel, and beabove the slime of a mangrove swamp; sides, the heat was awful. I think we and on the other an expanse of slime, with were not far enough from the swainpy larger houses on stilts, and an attempt at shore, for Mrs. Daly was seized with fever a street of Chinese shops, and a gambling. during the night, and a Malay servant den, which I entered and found full of also. In the morning Mrs. Daly, who gamblers at noonday. The same place is comely, and has a very nice complexserves for a spirit and champagne shop. ion, looked haggard, yellow, and much Slime was everywhere oozing, bubbling, shaken. smelling putrid in the sun, all glimmering, At daylight we weighed anchor and shining, and iridescent, breeding fever steamed for many miles up the muddy, and horrible life; while land crabs boring mangrove-fringed River Bernam, the man. holes, crabs of a brilliant turquoise blue groves occasionally varied by the nipah color, which fades at death, and reptiles palm. We met several palm-trees floating like fish, with great bags below their with their roots and some of their fruits mouths, and innumerable armor-plated in- j above the water, like those we saw yes. sects, were rioting in it under the broiling terday evening on the Malacca Straits,
looking like crowded Malay prahus with We landed by a steep ladder upon a tattered mat sails. jetty with a gridiron top, only sale for Before nine we anchored at this place, shoeless feet, and Mr. Hawley and I went whose wretchedness makes a great imup to the fort by steps cut in the earth. pression on me, because we are to deposit There are fine mango-trees on the siopes, Mr. Hawley bere as revenue-collector. I said to have been planted by the Dutch have seen him every day for a week; he two centuries ago. Within the fort the is amiable and courteous, as well as intelcollector and magistrate — - a very inert- ligent and energetic, and it is shocking to looking Dutch hall.caste — has a wretched leave him alone in a malarious swamp. habitation, mostly made of attap. We This dismal revenue-station consists of a sat there for some time. It looked most few exceptionally poor-looking Malay miserable, the few things about being houses on the river bank, a few equally empty bottles and meat-tins. A man unprosperous-looking Chinese dwellings, would need many resources, great energy, a police station of dilapidated thatch and an earnest desire to do his duty, in among the trees, close to it a cage in order to save him from complete degener- which there is a half-human-looking crimacy. He has no better prospect from his inal lying on a mat, a new house or big elevation than a nearly level plateau of room raised for Mr. Hawley, with the mangrove swamps and jungle, with low swamp all round it and underneath it, and hills in the distance, in which the rivers close to it some pestiferous ditches which rise. It was hot — rather.
have been cut to drain it, but in which a In the mean time the resident was try- putrid-looking brown ooze bias stagnated. ing a case, and when it was concluded we There is a causeway about two hundred steamed out to sea and hugged all day the yards long on the river bank, but no road most monotonous coast I ever saw, only anywhere. The river is broad, deep, just, if just, above bigh-water mark, with swift, and muddy; on its opposite side is a great level of mangrove swamps and Perak, the finest State in the peninsula, dense jungle behind, with high, jungle and the cluster of mat houses on the far. covered bills in the very far distance, a ther shore is under the Perak governvast area of beast-haunted country of inent. Sampans are lying on the heated which nothing is known by Europeans, slime. Coconut-trees fringe the river and almost nothing by the Malays them- bank for some distance, and there are selves. So very small a vessel tumbles some large spreading trees loaded with about a good deal even with a very light the largest and showiest crimson blos. breeze, and instead of going to dinner i soms I ever saw, throwing even the gaudy lay on the roof of the cabin studying blue. Poinciana regia into the shade; but nothbooks. At nightfall we anchored at the ing can look very attractive here, with the mouth of the Bernam River to avoid the swamp in front and the jungle belind, where the rhinoceros is said to roam un- | boat of which he could give no account, disturbed.
neither of himself. So he is supposed to We landed in the police boat at a stilted have been implicated in the murder of jetty approached by a ladder with few and Mr. Lloyd, and we are bringing him heavslippery rungs. At the top there was a ily ironed and his boat up to Pinang. I primitive gridiron of loose nibong bars, wonder how many of the feelings which and the river swirled so rapidly and diz- we call human exist in the lowest order zily below, that I was obliged ignomini- of Orientals ! It is certain that many of ously to hold on to a Chinaman in order them only regard kindness as a confession to reach the causeway safely. To add to of weakness. The Chinese seem spethe natural insecurity of the foothold, cially inscrutable, no one seems really to some men were killing a goat at the top understand them. Even the Canton mis. of the ladder, and its blood made the sionaries said that they knew nearly nothwhole gridiron slippery. The banks of ing of them and their feelings. This the river are shining slime, giving off fetid wretched criminal and his possible asso. exhalations under the burning sun, there ciation with a brutal murder is a most pitis a general smell of vegetable decompo- eous object on deck, and comes between sition, and miasma fever (one would sup me and the enjoyment of this entrancing pose) is exhaling from every bubble of evening. the teeming slime and swamp.
Hotel de l'Europe, Pinang, In the verandah of Mr. Hawley's house
February 9th. a number of forlorn-looking rajahs are In the evening we reached the Din. sitting, each with his forlorn-looking train dings, a lovely group of small islands ceded of followers, and in front of the police to England by the Pangkor treaty, and station a number of forlorn-looking: Ma- just now in the height of an unenviable lays are sitting inotionless hour after hour. notoriety. The sun was low and the great The Chinese have a row of shops above heat past, the breeze had died away, and the river bank, and even on this deadly. in the dewy stillness the largest of the looking shore they display some purpose islands looked unspeakably lovely as it and energy: Mrs. Daly and I are sitting lay in the golden light between us and the in Mr. Hawley's side verandah with the sun, forest-covered to its steep summit, bubbling swamp below us. She reads a its rocky promontories running out into dull novel, I watch the dead life, pen in calm, deep, green water, and forming alband, and think how I can convey any most land-locked bays, margined by shores impression of it to you. The resident of white coral sand, backed by dense has gone snipe-shooting to replenish our groves of coco palms, whose curving shad. larder. A dug-out now and then crosses ows lay dark upon the glossy sea. Here from the Perak side, a sauntering Malay and there a Malay house in the shade occasionally joins the squatting group, a indicated man and his doings, but it was fishing hawk now and then swoops down all silent. upon a fish, a policeman occasionally On a high, steep point there is a small rouses up the wretch in the cage, and so clearing, on which stands a mat bungathe torrid hours pass.
low, with an attap roof, and below this I take this up again as the dew falls, there is a mat police-station, but it was and the sea takes on the coloring of a all desolate, nothing stirred; and though dying dolphin. The resident returned we had intended to spend the early hours with a good bag of snipe, and withi Rajah of the night at the Dindings, we only lay Odoot, a gentle, timid-looking man, and a short time in the deep shadow upon the another rajah, with an uncomfortable, clear, green water, watching scarlet fish puzzled face, took his place at a table, a playing in the coral forests, and the expoliceman with a brace of loaded revolv. quisite beauty of the island with its dense ers standing behind him. Policemen foliage in dark relief against the cool filed in; one or two cases were tried and lemon sky. Peace brooded over the quiet dismissed, the Malay witnesses trembling shores, heavy aromatic odors of nightfrom head to foot, and then the wretch blooming plants wrapped us round, the from the cage was brought in, looking sun sank suddenly, the air became cool, hardly huinan, as from under his shaggy, it was a dream of tropic beauty. unshaven hair and unplaited pigtail which “ Chalakar! Bondo !!” Those jarring hung over his chest he cast furtive, sounds seemed to have something linking frightened glances at the array before them with the tragedy of which the peace him. He was charged with being a waif. ful looking bungalow was lately the scene, A Malay had picked him up at sea in a land of which you have doubtless read.
A Chinese gang swooped down upon the of the 19th Psalm, with the prevailing house from behind, beating gongs and yellow color of the eastern sky intensifyshouting Captain Lloyd got up to see ing in one spot, the cool, lingering freshwhat was the matter, and was felled by a ness, the deepening of the yellow east hatchet, calling out to his wife for his into a brilliant rose-color, till suddenly, revolver. This had been abstracted, and like a glory, the broad sun wheels the locks had been taken off his fowling. above the horizon, the dew-bathed earth pieces. The ayah Aed to the jungle in rejoices, the air is flooded with vitality, the confusion, taking with her the three all things which rejoice in light and heat children, the youngest only four weeks come forth, night birds and night prowl. old. The wretches then fractured Mrs. ers retire, and we pale people hastily put Lloyd's skull with the hatchet, and hav- up our umbrellas to avoid being shrivelled ing stunned Mrs. Innes, who was visiting in less than ten minutes from the first her, they pushed the senseless bodies appearance of the sun. under the bed, and were preparing to set Pinang (from the pinang, or areca-palm) fire to it when something made them de- is the proper name of the island, but out part.
of compliment to George IV. it was called No more is likely to be known. The Prince of Wales Island. Georgetown is police must either have been cowardly or the name of the capital, but by an odd treacherous. The pyah pekket called the freak we call the town Penang, and spell next day and brought the frightfully man. it with an e instead of an i. gled corpse, Mrs. Lloyd, whose reason There were
a great many ships and was overturned, and Mrs. Innes on here. junks at anchor, and the huge P. and It is supposed that the Chinese secret O. steamer “Peking,” and there was societies have frustrated justice. A state of universal hurry and excitement, wretch is to be hanged here for the crime for a large number of the officials of the on his own confession, but it is believed colonial government and of the “protectthat he was doomed to sacrifice himself ed" States are here to meet Sir W. Robby one of these societies in order to screen inson, the governor, who is on his way the real murderers. The contrast was home on leave. There are little studies awful between the island, looking so lovely of human nature going on all round. in the evening light, and this horrid deed Most people have “axes to grind.” There which has desolated it.
are people pushing rival claims, some The mainland approaches close to the wanting promotion, others leave, some Dindings, but the inangrove swamps of frank and above-board in their ways, othSělângor had given place to lofty ranges, ers descending to mean acts to gain favor, forest-covered, and a white coral strand or undermining the good reputation of fringed with palms. It was a lovely night; others, everybody wanting something the north-east monsoon was fresh and and usually, as it seems, at the expense steady, and the stars were glorious. It of somebody else! was very hot below, but when I went up Mr. Douglas, who had got up his men on deck it was cool, and in the colored in most imposing costume, anchored the dawn we were just running up to the “ Abdulsamat"close to the “Peking," and island group of which Pinang is the chief, at once went on board, with the kris with and reached the channel which divides it the gold bilt and scabbard presented by from Leper Island just at sunrise. All the sultan of Sělângor. In the mean time these islands are densely wooded, and the governor sent for me to breakfast on have rocky shores. The high mountains board, and I was obliged to go among of the native State of Kēdah close the clean, trim people without having time to view to the north, and on the other side change my travelling dress. I was of a very narrow chain are the palm- glad that I have no claims of my own to groves and sugar plantations of Province push when I saw the many perturbed and Wellesley. The Leper Island looked anxious faces. I sat next Sir William beautiful in the dewy morning, with its Robinson at breakfast, and found him stilted houses under the coco palms, and most kind and courteous, and he interthe Island of Penang, with its lofty peak, ested himself in my impressions of the dense woods, and shores fringed with native States. No one could make out palms sheltering Malay kampongs each the flags on the Sělângor yacht, four with its prahus drawn up on the beach, squares placed diagonally, two yellow and looked impressive enough.
two red, in one of the red ones a star and The fierce glory of a tropic sunrise is crescentin yellow, and on the mizzenmast ever a new delight. It is always the sun the same flag with a blue ensign as one of