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from the Dutch, when we reflect that their illustrious house from oblivion. they jumble bacon and buttermilk in The duke is now cold, but our gravy the same dish, and feed upon cheeses, is hot. Who does not remember which can only be compared to can queen Catharine's character of carnon-balls impregnated with salt? Ho- dinal Wolsey ? mer's poetical proser, Old Nestor,
He was a man considered man a cooking animal; of an unbounded stomach, ever ranking so thought the renowned James Himself with princes. Boswell, that twinkling star in the My interpretation of this passage, great belt of the Saturnine Moralist; with all due deference to Mr. Douce, and the observation enabled Mr. is, that he was a man who gave excei. Burke to account for the old proverb lent dinners. Allow me this, and the -There's reason in roasting of eggs. inigma of his “ ranking himself with With this great truth in view, how princes” is instantly solved. We much obliged ought the publick to will not, however, multiply cases to feel to a lady who, instead of inditing prove a self-evident proposition, but sonnets to the moon and feeding the proceed to the work under review; mind of her readers through the me which is introduced by an advertise. dium of the Minerva press, has pre- ment, wherein we are informed, that ferred the more laudable pursuit of “the following directions were incatering for the stomach, and has tended for the cor.duct of the fami. produced a work, at which the Han- lies of the authoress's own daughters, nah Glasses and the Farleys may and for the arrangement of their tahide their diminished larders. Half ble" But the young ladies, I supan author's merit arises from the pose, being unable to decypher their choice of his subject. A new system mamma's cramp manuscript, or, as of religion was out of the question; puddings and pies were the subject of no sober man now thinks of going her pen,“ obliged by hunger and re any where except to the Tabernacle ; quest of friends," she has consented and systems of politicks are as shifting torollit into the world in the puff-paste as the sạnds of Scamander under the shape of a thick duodecimo. "How foot of Achilles. An improved trea- rarely,” exclaims our authoress, in a tise on musick or dancing, might, pathetick tone,“ do we meet with fine indeed, have made many proselytes melted butter!” This calamity was in this fiddling and jumping age; not overlooked by our immortal bard, yet, still the deaf and the gouty would whose Moor of Venice bewails his not have become purchasers. But
want of that article with tears. new System of Cookery, embracing Unused to the melting mood, all the contents of the tablecloth, ab Dropt tears as fast as the Arabian trees ovo usque ad mala, is universally and Their medicinal gums, perpetually interesting. When a su And now, reader, having despatchperannuated general is fighting his ed the advertisement, we enter into battles over again, and in his narra, the vestibule of the temple, the pretive cuts off the wing of an army, face, consisting of “ Miscellaneous one is apt to yawn. How different Observations for the use of the Misthe sensation if he is cutting off the tress of a Family.” It is a good old wing of a wild fowl. John duke of custom with the race that write, to Argyll was a great man in his day : consider the topick unde their imhe is now hors de combât in West, mediate discussion, as the most im. minster Abbey ; and I entreat the portant subject of inquiry that can noble family of Campbell to reflect, agitate the feelings of man. Mrs. that the Argyll which saves the gravy Barbauld promotes Richardson, with. from coagulating, is the golden urn out any remorse, over the head of that shall long preserve the ashes of poor Fielding; and Mr. Hayley
vould fain make his molehill Cow- ployed on the piano-forte, emulate in per overtop Mount Milion. If an whiteness the keys they rattle, shall author does not appear in earnest, it be degraded to crack the claw of a is all over with him. “ How the lobster, or squeeze reluctant pickles deuce can you expect me to grieve,” into a jar? Even in the days of Pope, says Horace, “if you don't appear to it was one of the many subjects of grieve yourself ?" The authoress of complaint of that irritable bard, that Domestick Cookery was aware of Our wives read Milton, and our daughters this rule, when she introduced her plays. Miscellaneous Observations with a
And though, in the sixty-four years sentence which the hero of Bolt-court which have elapsed since bis death, himself might not have blushed to our wives may have changed their pen :
course of reading, yel, it may be "In every rank those deserve the greatest doubted, whether they are praise who best acquit themselves of the more wedded to the kitchen than duties which their station requires. In- heretofore. The German Mrs. Hal. deed, this line of conduct is not a matter of choice but of necessity, if we would with a bunch of keys at her girdle,
ler is represented in a mob-cap, maintain the dignity of our own characters as rational beings.”
the keeper of the paradise of pastry ; When I had proceeded thus far, I but Mrs. Siddons decorates that frail hastily turned the leaves, fearing that lady with long drapery, and a yellow I had, by mistake, dipped into the muslin turban. Fashion, however, Rambler ; but happening to alight will do much, and as our authoress's upon a green goose pie, and knowing Domestick Cookery is universally that the sage had never discussed read, let us hope that the modes of that topick, I returned to the preface. life will change, and that it will be as Our heroine of jams and jellies thus much the rage to stay at home to proceeds:
save money, as it is now to go abroad “In the variety of female acquirements, to spend it. though domestick occupations stand not Our fair purveyor of patty-pans is so high as they formerly did, yet when gifted with that variety of style which, neglected, they produce much humun milike her own recipes, is calculated to sery." [Here sighs a jar.] “There was a time when ladies knew nothing beyond Stilton's strong pinions now not Heaven
please all palates. their own family concerns ” (Here a goose
can bound, pie talke.) “But in the present day there
Now serpent-like, in are inany who know nothing about them.”
sweeps Ah, madam, this is a sober truth,
ground. though epigrammatically expressed. home the sweet refuge of a husband
She informs us, that “to make But, under favour, is it not something fatigued by intercourse with a jarring like the conceited cool, in the fragment of the Greek comick poet Stra world, to be his enlightened compania
on and the chosen friend of his heart, ton, who says to his master : What! I speak as Homer does ;
these, these are women's duties ;" And sure a cook may use like privilege,
and adds, in the same breath, And more than a blind poet.
dles made in cool weather are best." But mark the surly answer of the The reader is no sooner apprized that cook's master :
“a pious woman will build up her Not with me :
house before God,"than he is told "the P'll have no kitchen Homers in iny house ; price of starch depends upon that So, pray, discharge yourself.
of flour.” Talerits here find themThe lady Bountifuls have,I confess, selves placed in the same sentence quitted the stage, and the lady Town- with treacle; custards are coupled leys reign in their stead. Who now with conjugal fidelity, and moral duis so brutal as to expect, that those ties with macaroni. This obliquity delicate fingers which, when em of pen, “one eye on earth, the other
fixed on heaven," is the only sure
“ Goose-Cut off the apron in the cirmode of pleasing all readers. It forms
cular line a, b, c, in the figure opposite the genuine hill and dale of style, glass of Portwine and a large tea-spoon
the last page, and pour into the body a and when bounded by a modern mea.
ful of mustard, first mixed at the sidedow of margin, bids fair to circulate board. Turn the neck of the goose tothrough ten editions.
wards you, and cut the whole breast in And now, reader, prepare yourself long slices from one wing to another ; for a lecture on carving.
but only remove them as you help each people,” says our authoress,“ haggle person, unless the company is so large as
to require the legs likewise.” [And if meat so much as not to be able to
the caters are so many, wo betide the help half a dozen persons decently goose ; there will be nothing left of it for from a large tongue or a surloin of the next day.] “This way gives more beef; and the dish goes away with prime bits than by making wings. Take the appearance of having been gnaw
off the leg by putting the fork into the
small end of the bone, pressing it to the ed by dogs.” Most dogs that have body, and having passed the knife at d, come under my cognizance would turn the leg back, and, if a young bird, it be better pleased to gnaw the meat will easily separate." [Let our army and than the dish; but putting that aside, navy surgeons take notice that this init must be allowed to be a monstrous
struction is not meant for them.] “To thing for the seventh expectant, to
take off the wing, put your fork into the
small end of the pinion, and press it close be watching for a slice from a sur
to the body; then put in the knife at d loin which is destined to be wasted and divide the joint, taking it down in on six persons! Our lady, however, the direction d, e. Nothing but practice must in this instance be considered, will enable people to hit the joint exactly
at the first trial.* as rather hypercritical, few persons
When the leg and being souninitiated in the mysteries of other; but it is not often necessary to cut
wing of one side are done, go on to the the blade, as to be unable to carve a up the whole goose, unless the company be tongue or a surloin : But to be placed very large. There are two sidebones by opposite a pig, a goose, or a bare, the wing, which may be cut off, as like
wise the back and lower sidebones : but and to possess no more skill in the art than the executioner of the duke
the best pieces are the breast and the
thighs afier being divided from the drum. of Monmouth, is indeed one of the
sticks." miseries of human life. I most sin “ Hare.- The best way of cutting it up, cerely wish I could transplant these is to put the point of the knife under the dainties to the pages of this Review;
shoulder at a, in the figure opposite the but, since that cannot be, let me at
next page, and so cut all the way down least do all I can, by extracting the
to the rump on one side of the backbone,
in the line a, b. Do the same on the other rules for dissecting them.
side, so that the whole hare will be di. “ Sucking Pig:-The.cook usually deco
vided into three parts. Cut the back rates the body before it is sent to table, part into four, which, with the legs, is and garnishes the dish with the jaws and the part most esteemed. The shoulders cars.” [If she do not, she deserves to must be cut off in a circular line, as C, lose her own ears.] “ The first thing is to d, a; lay the picces neatly on the dish separate a shouller from the carcase on
as you cut them, and then help the comone side, and then the leg according to pany, giving some pudding and gravy to the directions given by the dotieci line ,
every person.f This way can only be b, c.
Tbc ribs are then to be dividke into about two helpings, and an ear or a jaw presented with them, and pionty of scure.
* The clear meaning of this remark is, The joints may either be divided into
that, if you are perfected by practice, you to each, or pieces may be cut from
will hit the jaini eraetly at the first trial, them. The ribs are reckoned the finest
though you never tried before. part, but some people prefer the neck-end The impartiality of this hospitable lady, between the shoulders.” [Here is a dif in giving pudding to every person, wheference of opinion between all people and ther they like it or like it not, is truly a. some people, which is left to the arbitra miable, and of a piece with that species of tion of other people.]
hoarding school benevolence which pla
a Can none
With a ge
practised when the hare is young : if old, priety that certain ladies and gentledon't divide it down, which will require men would take their degrees in this a strong arm” (a sly hint at the weakness culinary college ere they pretend to of her readers] “ but put the knife between the leg and back, and give it a
carve for themselves ! little turn inwards at the joint, which remember, yes I know all must," you must endeavour to hit and not to some one of his acquaintance whose break by force. When both legs are zeal to do the honours of the table is taken off, there is a fine collop, on each as intense as that of a missionary to side the back” (we all love a slice from poor puss :- This is indeed thic bare and visit the coast of Africa, and who is many friends] “ then divide the back about as well skilled in the science he into as many pieces as you please, and professes to teach ? Give such a man take off the shoulders, which are by many the hundred hands of Briareus, and preferred, and are called the sportsman's he would gladly dissect a whole city pieces.f When every one is helped, cut
feast at a single sitting. off the head” (and take it to yourself] put nerosity peculiar to bimself
, he disjaw, and divide them, which will enable penses the gravy over the faces and you to lay the upper flat on your plate, then waistcoats of his fellow guests, leavput the point of the knife into the centre, ing the poor goose or duck as dry as and cut the head in two. The ears and a Scotch metaphysical essay. When brains may be helped then to those who
a man of this stamp thrusts his fork like them.”
By the way, the same individual into the breast of a woodcock, the has seldom a penchant for both. Our company present express as much noble patronizers of the Italian opera
alarm as if the bird were alive.--" Let
no such man be trusted.” What a have nice ears and no brains, and many a sinister limb of the law has a
fine subject for a didactick poem is
carving! plentiful stock of brains and no ears.
What is Mr. Godwin
about? It is well known he adHere is a body of rules, scientifi
dresses his writs to the late sheriff of cally laid down, like the figure of a country dance, by right and left, London, who, upon such an occasion,
would doubtless usher the bantling leading out sides, and galloping down the middle, by a study of which the
to light. It is true the worthy.knight enlightened reader, when a goose or
eats no meat himself, since he eat up hare is before him,
the heifer ; but is that a reason why May Carve it like a dish fit for the gods,
he should be unmindful of those that Not hew it like a carcase for the hounds,
do ? It is to be feared, however, that But as humanity is the brightest this, to many readers, is all Algebra, jewel in a lady's tiara, it grieves me without the aid of the dotted engrav- to be obliged to reprehend, in the ings, which, by the way, are so badly most unqualified terms, the following executed, that it may be safely said, receipt to make hare souppage never were such good dinners served 104 : “ Take an old hare that is good mp on such indifferent plates. To for nothing else, cut it into pieces," thosc, however, who do not compre- &c. Fie, madam! are these your hend them, the utility of the above fine feelings ? Sterne, who wept. extracts is too obvious to render any over a dead jackass, like any sandapology necessary; and would to pro- man, would never have forgiven you.
Mr. Southey, mounted on old Poulces pudding as a grace before meat, and ter's mare, will vilipend you through obliges the young student to wade a whole Thalabia. Is this your resthrough a slough of rice or suet, before pect for age? Suppose some giant he can revel in the joys of beef or mut
of the Monk Lewis breed, having a + A hint from Horace-viz.
penchant for human flesh, were to Sapiens sectabitur armos.
seize you in his paws, and utter this By which we learn that sapiens is Latin culinary dictum : “ Take ait old vo
for a sportsman.
man that is good for nothing else, dignity of age, his Port wine all the cut her into pieces," &c. Gentle fire of youth. With an anxious forelady, would you like to be served so finger and a disappointed thumb, you yourself?
turn up his fish-cruets one by one, Order is heaven's first law," and find that they resemble the quoth the poet of reason; and as pitchers of the Belides. His chamgood eating is a heaven on earth to pagne is a copartnership of tar-water su many respectable natives of Lon- and treacle, and his lobster-sauce is don, it can excite no surprise that so alarmingly congealed as to be fitour dictatrix from the pantry has ter for Salmon's wax-work than for prefixed to her work an ample and salmon! These are the trials of huwell arranged table of contents, di man fortitude! Talk of Job scolded viding her subject into thirteen parts, by his wife, or Cato pent up in Utica embracing every dainty that can —psha! How different the taste and tickle the human palate. She com establishment of the renowned Demences with the scaly tenants of the cius! He is an assiduous frequenter flood, and ends with receipts to pre- of the Tabernacle, where he ponders vent hay from firing, to wash old on the joys to come when the din. deeds, to preserve a head of hair, and ner hour arrives. His thoughts are 10 dye gloves to look like York tan revolving, not on the new birth, but or Limerick. What an excursive on the new spit, which kindly roasts fancy are some ladies blessed with! his venison without wounding it. If A limb of the law might call the lat. the afternoon service happen 10 ex. ter part of this division travelling out tend beyond the usual period, then of the record, but surely without due may Decius be seen to issue from bis consideration.- Temp28 EDAX rerum, pew, like the lioness from her den. is a precept, old as the hills. Now Not having the fear of repletion be as it is well known that the old gen. fore his eyes, but moved and insti. tleman will now and then nibble a gated by an overroasted haunch, he lady's glove, “then her flowing hair," darts through the aisle, and knocks or gnaw the title deeds of her hus- down the intervening babes of grace band's estate, why should not his like so many piping ninepins. food be treated of as well as ours? Such is the laudable zeal of a man Nor let any carping critick condemn whose ruling passion floats in a tureen her dissertation on home-brewery and of mock turtle, and yet, so unsatissauces as too prolix. The evils that factory are all sublunary enjoyments, spring from inattention to these ar- it may sometimes be doubted wheticles are more numerous than the ther the rearing of such costly pyra. woes that sprang from the wrath of mids of food be worth the founder's the son of Peleus. I will not repeat trouble. Goldsmith somewhere exthe well known catastrophe at Salt- presses a strong objection 10 two hill; death, in that case, was a wel. thousand pounds a year, because they come visiter lo snatch eight unfortu- will not procure a man iwo appetites; nate gentlemen from the calamity of and another starveling son of the an illcooked ropast. Bul I will put muses, in his fable of the Court of it to the recollection of the majority Death, seems to insinuate, that inof my readers, whether they are not temperance may, in time, injure the in the habit of clining with some in- constitution. Certain it is, that three dividual, whom nature seems to have deadly foes to the disciple of Epicu. inanufactured without a palate. If rus, entitled Plethora, Apoplexy, and you ask the foot man of such an un. bilious Gout, are often found to lie happy being for bread, you receive perdu beneath a masked battery of something possessing the consistence French paste, and, crossing the course of a stone. His turbot has all the of the voluptuary, like the weird sis.