waters for which Hierapolis was famous still retain their quality; we found them hot, even at some distance from their fountain; and having had our faces inflamed with the burning rays of the sun, it was refreshing and beneficial to bathe them in the tepid streams.

To a Christian, Hierapolis is interesting, from the mention which is made of it in the sacred writings. In the epistle to the Colossians (v. 13.) St. Paul bears record to Epaphras, that he had great zeal for them in Hierapolis. Its vicinity to Lao. dicea and Colosse would naturally lead to the conclusion, that it enjoyed the privilege of the labours of Epaphras, at the same time with those two cities. It deserves also to be noticed, that the remains of two churches are still visible. It is delightful, then, to reflect, that, amidst these ruins of idolatry and pleasure, is reposing the earthly part of many faithful Christians; and that the last trumpet will call forth from beneath the incrustations of Pambouk-Kalasi many a glorified body to heavenly mansions. At present, no Christian resides even in the vicinity. There is only a miserable Turkish village, situated beneath the most eastern of the cascades.

Laodicea.-The city of Laodicea was seated on a hill of moderate height, but of considerable extent. Its ruins attest, that it was large, populous, and splendid: there are still to be seen an amphitheatre, a theatre, an aqueduct, and many other buildings. But its present condition is in striking conformity with the rebuke and threatening of God. Not a single Christian resides at Laodicea! No Turk even has a fixed residence on this forsaken spot. We only observed a few Turcomans, who had pitched their tents in the area of the amphitheatre. Infidelity itself must confess, that the menace of the scriptures has been executed. It was a subject of interest to me, to find that the amphitheatre, which still remains, was built not much later than the time when St. John wrote the Apocalypse: nor could I help inquiring, whether theatrical amusements might not have been one of the principal causes which induced the decay of spirituality at Laodicea; we know, from the passionate fondness of the ancients for these sports, and also from the powerful condemnation of them by the primitive fathers, that they must have been a source of serious temptation to the early Christians. Unhappy was the hour, when the youth of either sex were prevailed on to take their seat in these splendid structures: that solid and serious felicity which the gospel imparts would soon be expelled, amidst such tumultuous assemblies; and, with so many objects to

VOL. VI. Ch. Ad.

inflame the passions and to corrupt the heart, there was little prospect that a single visit would leave the individual without being infected with a dangerous contagion. Though circumstances are somewhat different in modern theatres, it is greatly to be apprehended that the results are not dissimilar: how many a youth who awakened the best hopes, has been utterly ruined by these entertain

ments!

From Laodicea to Philadelphia.-April 6, arrived at Degnizlu. This is a large and flourishing town; and, as we happened to visit it on the market-day, every thing wore an aspect of bustle and activity. There is a considerable number of Greck residents: they assert that they occupy 60 houses: and I was glad to find Romaic still spoken by them: they have one church, and we heard of another of the Armenians. After continual exposure to observation for so long a time, it was to me quite a treat to find an opportunity for prayer. Here, also, 1 was permitted, in some degree, to exercise my proper office. I had much conversation on religion with a Greek from Konich (the ancient Iconium,) and with three or four others. The missionary who would aspire to revive the ancient churches of Hierapolis, Laodicea, and Colossæ, must plant himself at Degnizlu: here he would be in the neighbourhood of them all. But he would have a difficult post: the union of the medical with the clerical character would probably remove some obstacles.

On the way to Chonos, we traversed a beautiful wood, in which the vines were climbing to the summits of the trees, and suspending themselves in a very elegant manner from the branches. On the right, we had romantic mountain scenery: Mount Cadmus was close at hand, crowned with forests, and the snow was glittering amidst the trees.

We approached Chonos with feelings of no small excitement. Where is the ancient Colosse? What remains of the church of Epaphras? Are any individuals still to be found who have been made meet to be partakers of the inheritance of the saints in light, delivered from the power of darkness, and translated into the kingdom of God's dear Son? (Col. i. 12, 13.) The answer is a melancholy one. The very spot on which Colosse stood is still uncertain: but, what is most afflicting, the condition of Christianity in this region has undergone a change, as total as the overthrow of the city.

Here we were sorry to find a total ignorance of modern Greek: a native of Cyprus is the only priest, and the only individual who can speak that language.

Whenever Turkish has supplanted Greek, of course the Romaick scriptures are of no value: nor does the Turkish Testament supply the deficiency: for, partly because the Greeks are ignorant of the Turkish characters, and partly because the Greeks are jealous of the introduction and use of this volume, it has become necessary for them to prepare Turkish scriptures in the Greek letter. Whatever publications they possess are of this description; and I noticed, that their inscriptions on tombs are of the same kind. It is a natural inference, which is unhappily too well confirmed by fact, that where the Greeks are only acquainted with Turkish, their knowledge of the New Testament will be proportionably less indeed, they are almost ignorant of it. Where Romaick is spoken, its similarity to ancient Greek still enables the attentive to have some knowledge of the lessons of the gospel which are read at church; but here, such a degree of light is impossible."

On the morning after their arrival at Chonos, Mr. Hartley and his companion wandered to a place which Mr. H. sup. posed to have been the site of the ancient Colosse. His reflections while standing on this interesting spot, were as follows: "Here reposes whatever was mortal of the church of Colosse; with the excep. tion of Epaphras, Archippus, Philemon, and Onesimus, their very names are forgotten. But, in truth, very different has been their end, from the death of those who are unconnected with their religion: When Christ, who is our life, shall appear, then will they also appear with Him in glory. (Col. iii. 4.) The place on which I tread is a sacred spot of earth. Here have been deposited the seeds of immortality. Here is concealed a treasure which ere long will adorn the very courts of heaven. The place where the remains of a believer rest must be precious in the eye of God himself: with the eye of sense, I view nothing here but scattered stones, adorned by violets, anemonies, and hyacinths; but, by faith, I foresee the exertion of Divine power amidst these ruins. Those who sleep in the dust shall awake-such as rejected the message of mercy declared to them by Epaphras, to shame and everlasting contempt the happy number, who gave it a welcome reception, to everlasting life. That the actual situation of Colosse should still be a subject admitting of further investigation, is a melancholy evidence of the utter ruin which has befallen that ancient city: long since have disappeared, not only all the pious labours of Epaphras and his successors, but the very buildings, amidst which they resided: at present, the ground is for the

most part cultivated, where we supposed the city to stand; and no remains are visible, which are either calculated to excite curiosity or to gratify taste.

Philadelphia-As we drew near this place, April 23d, I read with much interest the Epistle (Rev. iii. 7-13) to that church. The town is situated on a rising ground, beneath the snowy mountain Tmolus. The houses are embosomed in trees, which have just assumed their fresh green foliage, and give a beautiful effect to the scene. I counted six minarets. We entered through a ruined wall; massy, but by no means of great antiquity. The streets are excessively ill paved and dirty. The tear of Christian pity must fall over modern Philadelphia. Were Christ himself to visit it, would He not weep over it, as once over (Jerusalem? Alas! the generation of those who kept the word of our Lord's patience is gone by; and here, as in too many other parts of the Christian vineyard, it is difficult to discover better fruits than those which are afforded by briers and brambles! It is, indeed, an interesting circumstance to find Christianity more flourishing here than in many other parts of the Turkish empire: there is still a numerous Christian popu lation they occupy 300 houses: divine service is performed every Sunday in five churches, and there are twenty of a smaller description, in which once a year the Liturgy is read. But though the candlestick remains, its light is obscured: the lamp still exists, but where is its oil? Where is now the word of our Lord's patience ?-it is conveyed in sounds unintelligible to those who hear: when the very epistle to their own church is read, they understand it not! The word of legendary superstition and of multifarious will-worship is now more familiar to their ears. And where is the bright exhibition of Christian virtues?-unhappily, the character of Christians in these countries will scarcely bear comparison with that of Mahomedans themselves! In a word, Philadelphia has had her share in that utter apostacy from true and practical Christianity, which has been the bane of the East.

But, though I am compelled by truth to speak in this manner, I gladly seize this opportunity to express my conviction, that ere long there will be a great renovation in the eastern churches. This is not the place for detailing the grounds of such an opinion: but I state with confidence this result of my observations, during my intercourse with oriental Christians. Nothing is wanting, but perseverance in imparting instruction on every favourable occasion: and, ere long, we shall see the fruit of our labours. The English mission

aries, who visit these countries in a zealous and affectionate spirit, will find the language once addressed to Philadelphia applicable to themselves. Behold, I have set before thee an open door, and no man can shut it.

Our visit to Philadelphia was rendered the more interesting, by the circumstance of our being the bishop's visiters. He pressed us so strongly to make his house our home, that we thought it right to comply with his wishes. This circumstance gave me an opportunity of having much conversation with Panaretos. Many of his remarks afforded us satisfaction. The Bible he declared to be the only foundation of all religious belief: and I was astonished to hear him say, that he knew of no other confession of Christian belief, than the creeds of the Apostles, of Nice, and of St. Athanasius. With the design of referring to Christ, as the only name given among men by which we can be saved; 1 introduced a remark on the atoning efficacy which too many appear to attach to fasting. "It is," he replied, "the universal idea." After other remarks, distinguish ed for candour, and expressive of the miserable follies into which our nature has plunged us, he used these decisive words -"Abuses have entered into the church, which former ages might endure; but the present must put them down." Other topics of conversation were, justification by faith, indulgences, the prophecies concerning popery, and the seventh general council. Conversing on the last-mentioned subject, I was surprised to find, that he did not know that protestants worshipped God without the use of pictures. The Christian population he considered to be on the increase at Philadelphia: in the last year there had been ten deaths and twenty marriages: the Turks, he said, were decreasing a large number had marched for Greece, and none had ever returned. In the evening we attended the Metropolitan church; but to give a true account of the sad degradation of Christian worship exhibited on this occasion, would be equally difficult and painful. We were highly pleased with the engaging manner of Panaretos. His house, also, which is termed, as usual by the Greeks, the Metropolis, exhibited a decorum highly suited to a Christian bishop; nor did I witness that fawning and perpetual kissing of the hand, which I have deplored in some other episcopal residences. From the verandah, we had a view over the whole town by day; and, at night, we observed the illuminated minarets spreading their light over the city, as is customary during

the fast of Ramazan.

Sardis.-April 26th. This morning I have visited Sardis-once the splendid

capital of Lydia, the famous residence of Croesus, the resort of Persian monarchs, and one of the most ancient and magnificent cities of the world. Now how fallen! The ruins are, with one exception, more entirely gone to decay, than those of most of the ancient cities which we have visited. No Christians reside on the spot: two Greeks only work in a mill here, and a few wretched Turkish huts are scattered among the ruins. We saw the churches of St. John and the virgin, the theatre, and the building styled the palace of Crœsus: but the most striking object at Sardis is the temple of Cybele. I was filled with wonder and awe, at beholding the two stupendous columns of the edifice which are still remaining: they are silent but impressive witnesses of the power and splendour of antiquity."

(To be continued.)

LAST HOURS OF DR. PAYSON.

Few men, probably, have been carried through sufferings so severe as Dr. Payson's. His health had been declining many months. For most of the year past, the nature of his complaints was such as to preclude any confident hope of his recovery and during the few last weeks of his life, he may be said almost literally to have died daily-so excruciating were his sufferings, and especially at the seasons of their periodical return. Yet the joy of the Lord was his strength.' His spiritual comforts and antepasts of heaven were so rich and abundant, as greatly to outweigh his agonies. Instead of uttering a single complaint he was continually speaking the praises of the Lord, and resting in joyful assurance on the supports which the divine presence and promises afforded him. It was a favourite expression, and one often quoted in seasons of the greatest agony, "I will bless the Lord at all times," &c. He could speak of his extreme sufferings, as light afflictions, not worthy to be compar. ed with the glory to be revealed; nor indeed with that which he actually experienced; for, to use his own vivid language, "he could find no words to express his happiness; he seemed to be swimming in a river of pleasure, which was carrying him on to the great fountain."-" God is lite. rally now my all in all. If he is present with me, no event can in the least diminish my happiness, and were all the world at my feet trying to minister to my comfort, they could not add one drop to the cup." My happiness is too great-it will wear me out; and I do long to say a few words to my dear people."

The following sentences show the rapid enlargement of his conceptions of the

adorable God, as the time drew near when he should "see Him as he is."

"Hitherto I have viewed God as a fixed star, bright indeed, but often intercepted by clouds; but now it is coming nearer and nearer, and spreads into a Sun, so vast and glorious, that the sight is too dazzling for flesh and blood to sustain."-That his was not a bid adoration, and that his mind was awse to every view of the subject, may b seen by the expressions which follow:-"I see clearly that all these same glorious and dazzling perfections, which only serve to kindle my affections into a flame, and to melt down my soul into the same blessed image, would burn and scorch me like a consuming fire, if I were an impenitent sinner."

It is remarkable, that, notwithstanding the amazing power of his disease to torment the body, his mind, so far from suffering any abatement of its wonted vigour, seemed to increase in strength and the activity of its operations, and retained its balance perfectly. The imagery of the following expressions descriptive of the pantings and aspirings of the new born soul to rise to her God, is not surpassed by that of Pope's "Lend, lend your wings," &c. To Mrs. P., who, while ministering to him, had observed, "your head feels hot and seems to be distended," he replied, "It seems as if the soul disdained such a narrow prison, and was determined to break through with an angel's energy, and I trust with no small portion of an angel's feeling, until it mounts on high."-Again: "It seems as if my soul had found a pair of new wings, and was so eager to try them, that in her fluttering she would rend the fine network of the body to pieces."

His humility increased with his joys: "I find no satisfaction in looking at any thing I have done: I want to leave all this behind-it is nothing-and fly to Christ to be clothed in his righteousness: All my joy comes from looking at him." Again: "I have done nothing myself. It seems as if I had not fought, but Christ had fought for me-I had not run, but Christ had carried me-that I had not worked, but Christ had wrought in me. Christ has done all."

His views of the obligations and privileges of the Christian, he was heard to express in the following soliloquy.

"What an assemblage of motives to holiness does the gospel present! I am a Christian-what then? Why I am a redeemed sinner-a pardoned rebel-all through grace, and by the most wonderful means, which infinite wisdom could de

vise.

"I am a Christian-what then? Why I am a temple of God, and surely I ought to be pure and holy. I am a Christian-what

then?-Why I am a disciple of Christ, and must imitate him, who was meek and lowly in heart, and pleased not himself. I am a Christian-what then? I am a child of God, and ought to be filled with filial love, reverence, joy and gratitude. I am a Christian-what then? Why I am an heir of heaven, and hastening on to the abodes of the blessed, to join the full choir of glorified ones in the Song of Moses and the Lamb; and surely I ought to learn that song on earth."

He repeatedly expressed his continually deepening conviction that the happiness of heaven was a benevolent happiness, and consisted in imparting as well as receiving. He compared the saint to a mirror, which reflects as it receives the beams of the sun. This conviction was greatly strengthened by his own experience. "In proportion as my joy has increased," said he, "I have been filled with intense love to all, and a strong desire that they might partake of my happiness." The sincerity of this avowal was abundantly verified, by his increasing efforts to do good to all to whom he could gain access by any medium. During his last sickness, and after he was confined to his bed, he often saw and conversed with from 40 to 50 of his pastoral charge in a day. At his request, notice from the pulpit was given on the Sabbath, from time to time, as he had strength to bear it, inviting one class after another of his parishioners to come to him at a given hour, at which they received his farewell counsel, and blessing.-These seasons were tender and affecting beyond description.

With great effort, he was able for the last time, to meet his Church at the table of the Lord, on the first Sabbath in August, when he took a most affectionate leave of them in their collective capacity, exhort. ing them, that with purpose of heart they would cleave unto the Lord.

We have seen some additional accounts of the last sayings of this eminent man of God: Never was there, we think, a more complete victory over the king of terrors than he exhibited; and never have we read sentiments and remarks more replete with heavenly wisdom and sublime piety, than he uttered in the closing scene of life. We had once days in his company, some ten or the opportunity of passing a few twelve years since; and had the privilege to join with him in family prayer-In that exercise we then