NOTHING WANTING BUT THE GOSPEL. 89

to us was said or done. I can remember, but not describe, my sensations, as I stood near the 7 dancers, now gazing on their half-frenzied movements, now on the swarthy faces and forms of the natives who pressed against me in the crowd, and now out into the gloomy shadows of the surrounding trees.

"We were rowed to the ship by natives in a native boat, reaching it at one o'clock, A. M. Wearied with my walks, and worn out by the heat, I threw myself on the bed and slept soundly till morning.

"July 22. Weighed anchor about ten o'clock, and with a hardly perceptible breeze, stood away from Anjier. I almost experienced a feeling of regret as the beautiful landscape faded from my sight. Nothing is wanting but the gospel to transform Java into an earthly Eden. I no longer wonder that the early navigators among the South Sea Islands found it difficult to keep their crews from abandoning the ship. The life which a European might lead among these primitive people just suits the natural heart. The means of subsistence can be procured with little

8*

trouble, and the face of nature ever wears a smile.

"July 28. Much interested yesterday and today in reading Neander's Sketches from the History of Missions in the Middle Ages.' Truly, although these are justly denominated the 'dark ages,' many individuals in the church were burning and shining lights. Some seem to have been both superstitious and pious; in bondage to an ascetic spirit, and yet free in Christ Jesus. I find much in the character of these holy men, and indeed much in their conduct, well worthy of imitation; particularly their readiness to suffer for Christ, their strong and simple faith, and their perseverance in the midst of discouragements."

ARRIVES AT HONG KONG.

91

CHAPTER VII.

Arives at Hong Kong-Voyage up the Coast-Typhoon-At Shanghai-The City and Suburbs-In the hands of RebelsBegins Missionary work-Studies and Obstacles.

On the 5th of August, 1854, the missionaries reached Hong Kong. Of their brief stay among hospitable brethren in that city and their subsequent perilous voyage up the coast, Mr. Aitchison speaks very freely in the following extract from a letter written one week after reaching Shanghai.

[To C. P. B.]

"SHANGHAI, September 7, 1854. **"Arriving at Hong Kong, we were most cordially received by Rev. Mr. Johnson of the American Baptist Board, and by Rev. Dr. Legge and Rev. Mr. Chalmers of the London Missionary Society. At the house of the latter brethren we spent a fortnight very pleasantly. Such was the troubled state of Canton, (now be

sieged by the rebels,) that we did not deem it advisable to visit that city. You cannot imagine how strangely everything strikes one on his first arrival in such a country as China. One can hardly feel that he is the same being who not long before was in such different circumstances.

"Hong Kong is a barren, hilly spot, without shrubs or trees, except those planted by the hand of man. Victoria, the British settlement, contains a population of more than thirty thousand. It is not regarded as a promising missionary station, because it is the resort of the lowest class of the natives.

"On Saturday morning, August 19th, we sailed from Hong Kong for Shanghai, in the ship 'James Booth. Being compelled the first night to cast anchor among some small islands, we loaded our two cannon and our muskets, and kept a double watch till morning. These warlike preparations were demanded by the great numbers of pirates at present infesting these China waters.

"When just emerging from the Formosa Straits, we encountered a Typhoon, which lasted just two days, and came very near wrecking us. We knew that we must be near land, and feared every