In February, game of all kinds, as well that of the woods as of the waters, had nearly failed. The few fish they could take from under the ice were out of season and indifferent, but as the season advanced, these difficulties were removed, and on the 6th of May, some swans, the harbingers of spring, were seen. On the 24th, the musquetoes appeared, and the first flower, a tussilago, was gathered on the 27th.

During the winter, an additional boat had been built, for which, timber, though of an inferior description, was obtained around the lake. Some spruce and larch trees were found, which had attained a size of four or five feet in girth, with a height of from fifty to fifty-five feet, and an age, judging by the rings, of from one hundred and thirty to two hundred and fifty years, but the latter were all decayed at heart. "The only ferine companions we now had, says Captain Franklin, were a few hardy quadrupeds and birds, capable of enduring the winter-the variety of the former was confined to wolves, foxes, martens, hares, mice and a few rein deer. Of the feathered tribe, there were the raven and Canadian crow, some snow-birds, wood-peckers, red caps, cross beaks, Canada, rock and willow partridges, and a few hawks and owls."

On the 1st of June, every thing was in a state of forwardness for the expedition, and all the instructions given, not only for the journey during the summer, but for the preparations that should be made for the ensuing winter, as one or both parties might return to Fort Franklin. It may be proper to mention that two other expeditions had been organized in Great-Britain, to act, if possible, in concert, or at least towards a common object, with the one which Captain Franklin conducted. Captain Parry, for the third time, was directed to the Polar Sea, by the usual routs of Hudson's or Baffin's Bay, and with him, if successful, it was supposed that Dr. Richardson might connect his journey. Captain Beechy had been dispatched to the Pacific Ocean, and was directed to pass through Behring's Straits, to examine the coast and ocean around Icy Cape, and to await as long as the season would admit, the arrival of Captain Franklin and his party, if they should succeed in exploring the northern coast from M'Kenzie's River to that point. It was, therefore, not impossible that neither party, even without the occurrence of casualties, would return to Fort Franklin, while, on the other hand, it was not improbable that both parties might, as actually did happen, winter again at that post.

"The equipments of the boats being now complete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried under oars and sails. In the afternoon, the

men were appointed to their respective stations, and furnished with the sky blue water-proof uniforms and feathers, as well as with the arms and clothing which had been provided for the voyage. I acquainted them fully with the object of the expedition, and pointed out their various duties. They received these communications with satisfaction, were delighted with the prospect of their voyage, and expressed their readiness to commence it immediately. Fourteen men, including Augustus, (an Esquimaux, who had been brought from Hudson Bay as an interpreter) were appointed to accompany myself and Lieutenant Bach in the Lion and Reliance, the two larger boats; and ten, including Oolig buck, (another Esquimaux) to go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dolphin and Union. In order to make up the complement of fourteen for the western party, I proposed to receive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagérs; and to the credit of the Canadian enterprise, every man came forward.

"Spare blankets, and every thing that could be useful for the voyage, or as presents to the Esquimaux, which our stores could furnish, were divided between the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting day was closed by the consumption of a small quantity of rum, reserved for the occasion, followed by a merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in their working dresses. On the following Sunday, the officers and men assembled at Divine Service, dressed in their new uniforms; and, in addition to the ordinary service of the day, the special protection of Providence was implored on the enterprise we were about to commence. The guns were cleaned the next day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been made to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday were set apart for the officers and men to pack their own things. A strong western breeze occurred on the 21st, which removed the ice from the front of the house, and opened a passage to the Bear Lake River. The men were sent with the boats and stores to the river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack up the charts, drawings and other documents, which were to be left at the fort; and in the event of none of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed to forward them to England. We quitted the house at half past ten, on Thursday morning, leaving Cato, the fisherman, in charge, until Mr. Dease should return from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing the enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would not allow us to depart without giving us his hearty, though solitary cheers, which we returned in full chorus." pp. 85-6.

The ice prevented them from passing into the M'Kenzie River until the 24th. They ascended, for a short distance, to Fort Norman, where their last stores were to be taken on board, and on the 28th, they finally commenced the voyage of discovery.

The M'Kenzie is a rapid river, generally from two to four miles wide, in one place, however, named "the Ramparts," which they passed on the 29th, it is contracted for a space of seven miles by walls of limestone, to a width varying from four

to eight hundred yards. The banks are generally sand or limestone, sometimes beds of earth, with interposing strata of coarse coal. In one spot, below Fort Norman, Captain Franklin found one of these beds of coal on fire in the very spot where M'Kenzie had seen it burning in the year 1789. From Fort Simpson to the mouth of the M'Kenzie, the Rocky Mountains run parallel to that river, as its north-western direction was causing it constantly to approach that immense chain. These mountains were often in sight from the river, and afforded many picturesque views, but their height scarcely exceeded two thousand feet. On the right, various other mountains were seen at intervals, but no extensive or connected chain. The middle country between Bear Lake and the ocean is inhabited by the Hare and Loucheux Indians, the sea-coast by the Esquimaux, who extend across the continent, confining themselves, almost entirely, to the shores and islands of the Polar Sea, and depending, principally, for their food on the productions of that cold and stormy and almost perpetually frozen ocean. It seems surprising that a people can subsist and perpetuate their race under the privations and sufferings these hordes are compelled to undergo.

On the 3d of July, the expedition arrived at that point of the river where the Delta commences, and on the 4th, the two parties separated. Captain Franklin descended the western channel which approaches the Rocky Mountains, and on the 7th arrived at the mouth of the river.

It seems difficult, even after the discoveries of this voyage, to determine the real extent of the estuary of the M'Kenzie.It disembogues its waters into the ocean through many channels, wide, but, from the prevalence of northerly winds, so choked up with sands, that boats drawing but eighteen or twenty inches of water, find it difficult to approach the shore-and this was the character of the whole coast to the west of that river, as far as it was explored by Captain Franklin. On one of the many islands which are situated at the mouth of the river, a crowd of tents was observed surrounded by strolling Esquimaux:

"On quitting the channel of the river, we entered into the Bay, which was about six miles wide, with an unbounded prospect to leeward, and steering toward the tents, under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The water became shallow as we drew towards the island, and the boats touched the ground, when about a mile from the beach; we shouted and made signs to the Esquimaux to come off, and then pulled a short way back to await their arrival in deeper water. Three canoes instantly put off from the shore, and before they could reach us others were Jaunched in such quick succession, that the whole space between the island and the boats was covered with them. We endeavoured to count

their numbers as they approached, and had proceeded as far as seventy three canoes, and five oomiaks (canoes for women) when the sea became so crowded by fresh arrivals, that we could advance no further in our reckoning." p. 97.

The party soon became surrounded by three or four hundred natives, who were quite friendly at first, but tempted by what they saw, while the boats were still aground, they made a sudden and terrible attack-pulling and dragging off every thing they could lay their hands on. This was resisted by the men who sat upon the coverings of the boats, kicking and thumping the aggressors with the butts of their muskets for several hours. No blows were struck by the Indians, and Captain Franklin, wisely, as appears from the result, prohibited his men from firing. The Indians at last retired, carrying off but few articles of any value. Augustus, the Esquimaux lad, during the whole disturbance with these Indians, distinguished himself by his courage and fidelity, and was of vast importance in saving the party.

"But to resume the narrative of the voyage. The breeze became moderate and fair; the sails were set, and we passed along the coast in a W. N. W. direction, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on a low island, covered with drift wood, to repair the sails, and to put the boats in proper order for a sea voyage. The continuance and increase of the favourable wind urged us to make all possible despatch, and at three in the morning of the 9th, again embarking, we kept in three fathoms water, at the distance of two miles from the land After sailing twelve miles, our progress was completely stopped by the ice adhering to the shore, and stretching beyond the limits of our view to the seaward. We could not effect a landing until we had gone back some miles, as we had passed a sheet of ice which was fast to the shore; but at length a convenient spot being found, the boats were hauled up on the beach. We quickly ascended to the top of the bank to look around, and from thence had the mortification to perceive that we had just arrived in time to witness the first rupture of the ice. The only lane of water in the direction of our course was that from which we had been forced to retreat in every other part, the sea appeared to be as firmly frozen as in winter; and even close to our encampment the masses of ice were piled up to the height of thirty feet. Discouraging as was this prospect, we had the consolation to know that our store of provisions, (for three months) was sufficiently ample to allow of a few days detention." p. 106.

On the 11th of July, a strong breeze during the night, having removed the ice a little in front of the encampment, the party embarked, and after labouring along the coast, amidst masses of ice, in fogs, rains and mists, over mud and shallows through

which the men were frequently compelled to wade and drag the boats, encountering all sorts of difficulties, and, at times, narrowly escaping being crushed between bodies of ice, the party arrived on the 16th of August, at Point Beechy, three hundred and ninety-one miles from the mouth of the McKenzie.

The following extract will give some idea of the difficulties Captain Franklin and his party had to encounter along this dreary coast. The whole voyage was scarcely more than a repetition of similar scenes:

"On the 10th, the continuance of the gale and of the fog, more opaque if possible than before, and more wet, were not only productive of irksome detention, but they prevented us from taking exercise: our walks being confined to a space between the marks which the Esquimaux had put upon two projecting points, whither we went at every glimpse of clearness, to examine into the state of the waves. We witnessed with regret in these short rambles, the havoc which this dreary weather made amongst the flowers. Many that had been blooming on our arrival, were now lying prostrate and withered. These symptoms of decay could not fail painfully to remind us that the term of our operations was fast approaching; and often at this time did every one express a wish that we had some decked vessel, in which the provision could be secured from the injury of salt water, and the crew sheltered when they required rest, that we might quit this shallow coast, and steer at once towards Icy Cape. We e designated this dreary place by the name of Foggy Island. As an instance of the illusion occasioned by the fog, I may mention that our hunters sallied forth on more than one occasion, to fire at what they supposed to be deer, on the bank about one hundred yards from the tents, which to their surprise took wing, and proved to be cranes and geese.

"The wind changed from east to west in the course of the night, and at eight in the morning of the 11th, the fog disappeared sufficiently to allow of our seeing a point bearing N. W by W about three miles and a half distant, which we supposed to be an island. We therefore hastened to embark; but before the boats could be dragged so far from the shore that they could float, the fog returned. The wind, however, being light, we resolved to proceed, and steer by compass to the land that had been seen. Soon after quitting the beach, we met with shoals, which forced us to alter the course more to the north; and having made the distance at which we estimated the point to be, and being ignorant which way the coast trended beyond it, we rested for some time upon the oars, in the hope that the fog would clear away, even for a short time, to enable us to shape our course anew; but in vain; all our movements in the bay being impeded by the flats that surrounded us, we were compelled to return to Foggy Island. Scarcely had the men made a fire to dry their clothes, which were thoroughly wet from wading over the flats, than the fog again dispersing, we pushed off once more. On this occasion we arrived abreast of the point whilst the weather continued clear, but found a reef, over which the waves washed, stretching