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now is this resemblance, that the Scot | But after every allowance has been made who for the first time sails along the west- for these several influences, it seems to ern seaboard of Norway, can hardly real- me that there are residual differences ize that he is not skirting the coast-line of which cannot be explained except by the Inverness, Ross, or Sutherland. Such a effects of environment. The Celt of Ireform of coast forbade easy communica- land and of the Scottish Highlands was tion by land between valley and valley. originally the same being; he crossed Detached settlements arose in the more freely from country to country; his lansheltered bays, where glens, opening in- guage, manners and customs, arts, reliland, afforded ground for tillage and pas- gion, were the same on both sides of the ture. But the intercourse between them channel, yet no two natives of the Britwould be almost wholly by boat, for there ish Islands are now marked by more could be no continuous line of farms, vil- characteristic differences. The Irishman lages, and roads, like those for which the seems to have changed less than the old red sandstone selvages offered such Highlander; he has retained the lightfacilities on the eastern coast. Hence, hearted gaiety, wit, impulsiveness, and though the Norsemen possessed them- excitability, together with that want of selves of every available bay and inlet, dogged resolution and that indifference driving the Celts into the more barren in- to the stern necessities of duty, which we terior, the natural contours made it im- regard as pre-eminently typical of the possible that their hold of the ground Celtic temperament. The Highlander, on should be so firm as that of their kinsmen the other hand, cannot be called either in the east. When that hold began to merry or witty; he is rather of a self-rerelax, the Gaelic natives of the glens came strained, reserved, unexpansive, and even down once more to the sea, and all obvi- perhaps somewhat sullen, disposition. ous trace of the Norse occupation event. His music partakes of the melancholy ually disappeared, save in the names given cadence of the winds that sigh through by the sea-rovers to the islands, promon- his lonely glens; his religion, too, one of tories, and inlets-the "ays," "nishes" the strongest and noblest features of his or "nesses," and "fords" or "fjords " character, retains still much of the gloomy which, having been adopted by the Celtic tone of a bygone time. Yet he is courtenatives, show that there must have been ous, dutiful, determinedly persevering, some communication and probable inter- unflinching as a foe, unwearied as a friend, marriage between the races. Among the fitted alike to follow with soldier-like obeouter islands the effects of the Norwegian dience, and to lead with courage, skill, occupation were naturally more enduring, and energy-a man who has done much though even there the Celtic race has in every climate to sustain and expand long recovered its ground. Only in the the reputation of the British Empire. Orkney and Shetland group have the vikings left upon the physical frame and language of the people the strong impress of their former presence. To this day a Shetlander speaks of going to Scotland, meaning the mainland, much as a Lowland Scot might talk of visiting England, or an Englishman of crossing to Ireland. But besides governing in no small degree the distribution of races in Britain, the geological structure of the country has probably not been without its influence upon the temperament of the people. Let us take the case of the Celts, originally one great race, with no doubt the same average type of mental and moral disposition, as they unquestionably possessed the same general build of body and cast of features. Probably nowhere within our region have they remained unmixed with a foreign element, and this, together with the varying political conditions under which they have lived, must have distinctly affected their character.

Now what has led to so decided a contrast? I cannot help thinking that one fundamental cause is to be traced to the great difference between the geological structure and consequent scenery of Ireland and of the Highlands. By far the greater part of Ireland is occupied by the carboniferous limestone, which, in gently undulating sheets, spreads out as a vast plain. Round the margin of this plain the older formations rise as a broken ring of high ground, while here and there from the surface of the plain itself they tower into isolated hills or hilly groups; but there is no extensive area of mountains. The soil is generally sufficiently fertile, the climate soft, and the limestone plains are carpeted with that rich verdant pasture which has suggested the name of the Emerald Isle. In such a region, so long as the people are left free from foreign interference, there can be but little to mar the gay, careless, childlike temperament of the Celtic nature. If the

capable of cultivation. The crystalline formations of the Scottish Highlands may be taken as an example of this kind of territory. The grouse-moors and deerforests of that region exist there, not merely because the proprietors of the land have so willed it, but because over hundreds of square miles the ground itself could be turned to no better use, for it can neither be tilled nor pastured. Much patriotic nonsense has been written about the enormity of retaining so much land as game preserves. But in this, as in so many other matters, man must be content to be the servant of nature. He cannot plant crops where she has appointed that they shall never grow; nor can he pasture flocks of sheep where she has decreed that only the fox, the wild cat, and the eagle shall find a home.

country yields no vast wealth, it yet can | protruding almost everywhere to the surfurnish, with but little labor, all the nec- face and only scantily and sparsely covessaries of life. The Irishman is nat- ered with a poor soil, are naturally inurally attached to his holding. His fathers for generations past have cultivated the same little plots. He sees no reason why he should try to be better than they, and he resents, as an injury never to be forgiven, the attempt to remove him to where he may elsewhere improve his fortunes. The Highlander, on the other hand, has no such broad, fertile plains around him. Placed in a glen, separated from his neighbors in the next glens by high ranges of rugged hills, he finds a soil scant and stony, a climate wet, coid, and uncertain. He has to fight with the elements a never-ending battle, wherein he is often the loser. The dark mountains that frown above him gather around their summits the cloudy screen which keeps the sun from ripening his miserable patch of corn, or rots it with perpetual rains after it has been painfully In the second place, the true pasturecut. He stands among the mountains lands, that is, the tracts which are too face to face with nature in her wilder high or sterile for cultivation, but which moods. Storm and tempest, mist-wreath are not too rocky to refuse to yield, when and whirlwind, the roar of waterfalls, the their heathy covering is burnt off, a sweet, rush of swollen streams, the crash of grassy herbage, excellent for sheep and loosened landslips, though he may seem cattle, lie mainly on elevated areas of hardly to notice them, do not pass with non-crystalline palæozoic rocks. The long out bringing, unconsciously perhaps, to range of pastoral uplands in the south of his imagination, their ministry of terror. Scotland, and the fells of Cumberland, Hence the playful mirthfulness and light- Northumberland, and Yorkshire, are good hearted ease of the Celtic temperament examples. These lonely wilds might be have in his case been curdled into a stub-grouped into districts each marked off by bornness, which may be stolid obstinacy certain distinctive types of geological or undaunted perseverance, according to structure, and consequently of scenery. the circumstances which develop it. Like And it might, for aught I know, be pos his own granite hills he has grown hard sible to show that these distinctions have and enduring, not without a tinge of mel-not been without their influence upon the ancholy, suggestive of the sadness that generations of shepherds who have spent lingers among his wind-swept glens, and their solitary lives among them; that in that hangs about the slopes of birk round character, legends, superstitions, song, the quiet waters of his lonely lakes. The the peasants of Lammermuir might be difference between Irishman and Scot thus somewhat resembles, though on a minor scale, that between the Celt of lowland France and the Celt of the Swiss Alps, and the cause of the difference is doubtless traceable in great measure to a similar kind of contrast in their respective surroundings.

If now we turn to the influences which have been at work in the distribution of the population of the country and the development of the national industries, we find them in large degree of a geological kind.

In the first place, the feral ground, or territory left in a state of nature and given up to game, lies mostly upon rocks which,

distinguished from those of Liddesdale, and both from those of Cumberland and Yorkshire - the distinction, subtle perhaps and hardly definable, pointing more or less clearly to the differences in their respective surroundings.

In the third place, the sites of towns and villages may often be traced to a guiding geological influence. Going back to feudal times we at once observe to what a large extent the positions of the castles of the nobles were determined by the form of the ground, and notably by the prominence of some crag which, rising well above the rest of the country, commanded a wide view and was capable of defence. Across the Lowlands of Scot

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land such crags are abundantly scattered. | they can obtain most employment and They consist for the most part of hard best pay; and these districts are necessaprojections of igneous rock, from which rily those where coal and iron can be obthe softer sandstones and shales, that tained, without which no branch of our once surrounded and covered them, have manufacturing industry could exist. been worn away. Many of them are In the fourth place, the style of archicrowned with medieval fortresses, some tecture in different districts is largely of which stand out among the most fa- dependent upon the character of their mous spots in the history of the country. geology. The mere presence or absence Dumbarton, Stirling, Blackness, Edin- of building-stone creates at once a funda burgh, Tantallon, Dunbar, the Bass, are mental distinction. Hence the contrast familiar names in the stormy annals of between the brickwork of England, where Scotland. A strong castle naturally gath-building-stone is less common, and the ered around its walls the peasantry of the stonework of Scotland, where stone neighborhood, for protection against the abounds. But even as we move from common foe, and thus by degrees the orig- one part of a stone-using region to aninal collection of wooden booths or stone other, marked varieties of style may be huts grew into a village or even into a observed, according to local geological populous town. The Scottish metropolis development. The massive yellow limeundoubtedly owes its existence in this stone blocks of Bath or Portland, the way to the bold crag of basalt on which thin blue flags and slates of the Lake its ancient castle stands. district, the thick courses of deep-red freestone in Dumfriesshire, the bands of fine, easily-dressed white sandstone at Edinburgh, the flints of Kent and Sussex, have all produced certain differences of style and treatment. To a geological eye passing rapidly through a territory, the character of its buildings is often sugges tive of its geology.

In more recent times the development of the mining industries of the country has powerfully affected both the growth and decay of towns. Comparing in this respect the maps of to-day with those of one hundred and fifty or two hundred years ago, we cannot but be struck with the remarkable changes that have taken place in the interval. Some places which were then of but minor importance have now advanced to the first rank, while others that were among the chief towns of the realm have either hardly advanced at all or have positively declined. If now we turn to a geological map, we find that in almost all cases the growth has taken place within or near to some important mineral field, while the decadence occurs in tracts where there are no workable minerals. Look, for example, at the prodigious increase of such towns as Glasgow, Liverpool, Manchester, Newcastle, Birmingham, and Middlesborough. Each of these owes its advance in population and wealth to its position in the midst of, or close to, fields of coal and iron. Con trast, on the other hand, the sleepy quiet, unprogressive content, and even some times unmistakable decay, of not a few county towns in our agricultural districts. Closely connected with this subject is the remarkable transference of population which for the last generation or two has been in such rapid progress among us. The large manufacturing towns are increasing at the expense of the rural districts. The general distribution of the popuiation is changing, and the change is obviousiy underlaid by a geological cause. People are drawn to the districts where VOL. XXXIX. 1979

LIVING AGE.

In the fifth and last place, the dominant influence of the geology of a country upon its human progress is nowhere more marvellously exhibited than in the growth of British commerce. The internal trade of this country may be spoken of as its life-blood, pulsating unceasingly along a network of railways. This vast organism possesses not one but many hearts, from each of which a vigorous circulation proceeds. Each of these hearts or nervecentres is located on or near a mineral region, whence its nourishment comes. The history of the development of our system of railways, our steam machinery, our manufactures, is unintelligible except when taken together with the opening up of our resources in coal and iron.

The growth of the foreign commerce of the country enforces the same lesson. Even, however, before the days of steam navigation, her geological structure gave England a distinct advantage over her neighbors on the Continent. Owing to the denudation that has hollowed out the surface of the country, and the subsidence that has depressed the shoreward tracts beneath the sea, the coast-line of Britain abounds in admirable natural harbors, which on the opposite side of the Channel and North Sea are hardly to be found. There can be no question that in the in

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fancy of navigation this gave a superior. | lished journal in Swift's handwriting, ity for which hardly anything else could singular in its character, and of extraordicompensate. We boast that it is our in-nary interest. Of the verses he says sular position and our English blood that nothing at all. A mere glance at these have made us sailors. Let us remember documents will suffice to show their value that in spite of their less favorable position, our neighbors on the opposite shores of the Continent have become excellent sailors too, and that if we have been enabled to lead the van in international commerce it has been largely due to the abundant, safe, and commodious inlets in our coast-line which have sheltered our marine.

Of the foreign trade of the country it is not needful to speak. Its rapid growth during the present century is distinctly traceable to the introduction of steam navigation, and therefore directly to the development of those mineral resources which form so marked an element in the fortunate geological construction of the British Islands.

ARCHIBALD GEIKIE.

From The Gentleman's Magazine.
AN UNPUBLISHED DIARY

WRITTEN BY DEAN SWIFT.

- their value as pieces intrinsically curious, and as pieces peculiarly illustrative of the dean's character and habits. Of their authenticity there can be no question. Those who are familiar with Swift's writings would indeed require no further guarantee than that afforded by internal evidence alone. But the ink, the paper, the handwriting-and the handwriting of Swift can never be mistaken-form in themselves conclusive testimony.

It would be interesting to know the history of this remarkable little volume. Mr. Forster obtained it from Dr. Todd, senior fellow of Dublin University, but how it got into Dr. Todd's hands we have now no means of knowing. It originally belonged to Worral, one of Swift's most intimate friends, for on the first page is an inscription: "This book was all wrote by Dean Swift, and was Mr. Worral's." On the same page in Swift's handwriting is another inscription: "This book I stole from the Right Honble. George Dodington Esqr. one of the Lords of the Treasury. But the scribblings are all my own." On the opposite page are some memoranda in the dean's hand: "In Fleet Street about a clerk of St. Patrick's Cathedral." Spectacles for seventy years old." "Godfrey in Southampton Street. Hungary waters, and palsy drops," and the like. On the third page are some verses, extremely difficult to decipher, and cancelled. They are apparently the rough sketch of a poem. We give them exactly as they stand:

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Shall I repine Because my shabby threadbare waistcoat, to... Full five years

.. or out at elbows

EVERY one interested in the literature of the last century is aware that when Mr. John Forster died he was engaged in writing an elaborate biography of Swift; that of this work he lived only to complete the first volume, but that, though he had made no progress with the second and third volumes, he had collected materials for them. Those materials formed part of his magnificent bequest to the South Kensington Museum, where they are now deposited. Few readers appear to be aware of their existence, still fewer have any conception of their great value. So see the Cassock of a poor divine Among these documents is a small note- Worn out at elbows why should he repine book which belonged to Swift; and with If neither brass nor marble can withstand the contents of that note-book we propose The mortal force of Time's destructive hand to present our readers. It appears to If mountains sink to vales, if Cityes dye have been guarded by Mr. Forster with And lessening rivers mourn their fountains dry jealous vigilance, for not a line of it has When my old Cassock says a Welch divine as yet seen the light, nor is even an allu- Is out at elbows why should I repine? sion to it to be found in any work relating Then commences the really valuable part to Swift. It had escaped the notice of of the manuscript the powerful and every editor and every biographer, though characteristic poem to which we shall among those editors was Sir Walter Scott, presently recur, and the diary, to which it and among those biographers was Monck may be well to prefix a few words by way Mason. Mr. Forster had evidently re- of introduction. It was written, it will be served it as a grateful surprise for his | seen, at Holyhead, and it is dated Sepreaders, merely observing in his preface tember 22, 1727. Swift had at this time that he was in possession of an unpub-arrived at the summit of his literary and

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political greatness. Three years before, | me in the street and said that was my horse, the Drapier Letters had in Ireland given she knew me. There I dined and sent for Ned him power more than regal. The publi- Holland a squire famous for being mentioned Gulliver's Travels" in the in Mr. Lyndsay's verses to Day Morice, I there autumn of 1726 had established his pre- of his mother, and had himself 27 children again saw Hook's tomb who was the 41st child eminence in letters. But neither fame he dyed about 1638. There is a note here that nor power had been able to irradiate with one of his posterity new furbished up the ineven a passing gleam the deep gloom scription, I had read in A. Bt Williams Life * which was settling on his life. Rage and that he was buryed in an obscure church in misery, the result partly of ill-health, North Wales. I enquired and heard that it partly of domestic misfortune, but arising was at (sic) Church within a mile of Bangor, mainly from his continually brooding over whither I was going. I went to the Church, the degradation of his adopted country, his Statue kneeling (in marble). It began thus the guide grumbling. I saw the Tomb with were gnawing at his heart. A cruel disease tortured his body. Esther Johnson Hospes lege et relege quod in hoc obscuro was on her death-bed, and he had hurried Præsulum celeberrimus]. I came to Bangor sacello non expectares. Hic jacet omnium from London in the hope of seeing her and crossed the Ferry a mile from it where before she quitted him forever. In his there is an Inn which, if it be well kept, will correspondence at this period in his break Bangor. There I lay, it was 22 miles letters, that is to say, to Sheridan and from Holyhead. I was on horseback at 4 in Worral―his distress and agony find pas- the morning resolving to be at Church at Holysionate utterance. Of this there are no head but we then lost Owen Tudor's tomb at traces in the diary, for it was his habit to Penmany. We passed the place (being a little find in these soliloquies, as well as in the out of the way) by the Guide's knavery who trivialities recorded in them, that refuge riding that I was forced to stop at Langueveny, had no mind to stay. I was now so weary with from distressing thoughts which ordinary 7 miles from the Ferry, and rest two hours. men find in light and idle conversation. Then I went on very weary, but in a few miles "All this," he writes in the middle of the more Watts't horse lost his two fore-shoes. diary, "is to divert thinking; " and these So the Horse was forced to limp after us. words are the key not only to this journal, The Guide was less concerned than I. In a but to the more famous Journal to Stella. few miles more my Horse lost a fore-shoe, and The whole journal is, like the famous could not go on the rocky ways. I walked Journal to Stella, curiously illustrative of above two miles to spare him. It was Sunday almost all Swift's peculiarities of temper Smith in the way: we left the Guide to shoe and no Smith to be got. At last there was a and intellect. His sensitive pride, not un- the horses and walked to a hedge Inn 3 miles mingled with vanity, his reserve and from Holyhead. There I stayed an hour with hauteur struggling with his craving for no ale to be drunk. A boat offered, and I human society, his grave drollery, the went by sea and sayled in it to Holyhead. restless activity of his mind, his never- The Guide came about the same time. failing humor, his acute sensibility, his dined with an old Innkeeper, Mrs. Welch, listless but keenly observant interest in about 3 on a Loyne of mutton very good, but all that was passing round him, his sharp, the worst ale in the world, and no wine, for the swift insight, his querulous impatience day before I came here a vast number went to with everything which militated against There was stale beer and I tryed a (illegible) Ireland after having drunk out all the wine. his physical comfort, his frugality pushed receit of Oyster shells which I got powdered even to parsimony, his detestation of the on purpose; but it was good for nothing. I Irish, his sarcastic intolerance of dulness walked on the rocks in the evening and then and mediocrity-all find illustration here. went to bed and dreamt I had got 20 falls from my Horse.

The Diary.

Friday at 11 in the morning I left Chester. It was Sept. 22 1727.

I bated at a blind ale-house 7 miles from Chester. I thence rode to Ridland in all 22 miles. I lay there, bred (sic) bed, meat and tolerable wine. I left Ridland a quarter after 4 morn on Saturday. Slept on Penmanmaur, examined about my sign verses the Inn is to be on t'other side, therefore the verses to be changed. I baited at Conway, the guide going to another Inn, the maid of the old Inn saw

• Rhuddlan.

I

Monday Sept. 25. The captain talks of sailing at 12. The talk goes off, the wind is fair but he says it is too fierce. I believe he wants more Company. I had a raw chicken for dinner and Brandy with water for my drink. I walked morning and afternoon among the rocks. This evening Watts tells me that my land-lady whispered him that the Grafton packet boat just come in had brought her 18 bottles of Irish Claret. I secured one and supped on part of a neat's tongue which a

See Hacket's Life of Archbishop Williams, p. 230. † Swift's servantman, see infra.

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