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ists, and speculators, where life goes ate one of the vacancies on the benches, by rule, squared off like the accounts of a for soon they will be very scarce. ledger, where, the character is affectedly If they are young, and have come to grave and habits are monotonous, even Switzerland for the first time, if they are this city affords, twice a day in the warm curious to see, they stand about or go and season, a spectacle which excites some place themselves upon the prow of the animation and appears to scatter a little boat, to inhale the pure breezes of the confusion. This spectacle is the arrival lake, and to enjoy the pleasure of seeing and departure of the steamboats.

themselves glide over the blue and limpid A crowd of the curious range themselves waters, like a bird in powerful and rapid on that part of the Grand Quay alongside flight. But already the moorings are of which the boat is moored; while from loosed, a few turns of the wheel and the the Place du Rhône or the Pont du Ber- | Aigle or the Leman distances the shore, gues, travelers arrive at a step somewhat it leaps the barricade, and anon is launched accelerated by the strokes of the last bell. for the full sweep of this vast inland sea,* They spring across the little bridge of planks which connects the boat with the

We would like to know what appellation

this writer would give to the great lakes of quay; they place their baggage in the

North America, if he calls Lake Geneva a vast center near the pipe ; then if they wish to 1 inland sea.

which here separates the Jura from the modities, but he knows nothing about his Alps.

mountains. Beyond the Saleve everything The most eager gaze is not able fully to to him is confounded under the general take in the beauty of the scene. It is name of the Alps, and everything in the toward the side of Savoy, of the large gap horizon that is covered with snow is Mont in the mountains of the valley of Bonne- Blanc. He is indifferent to a spectacle ville, that you are mostly attracted. There, which he has continually before his eyes. immediately before you, rises the beautiful Perhaps he will show in the range of the isolated pyramid of the Môle, and beyond, Jura the rounded summit of the Dole, the Mont Blanc itself, glittering with all the ascent of which he may have made once immaculate splendor of its eternal snows. in his life. But at least he will tell you

Do not address yourself to a Genevan the names. of the proprietors of those if you wish to learn the names of the charming country-seats which dot both principal peaks, for example the situation banks of this enchanting lake. of Buet, which is so very prominent seen While observing and discussing all, the from here, and which, perchance, you in- boat advances. There already is Coppet, tend to climb in a few days. The Gene- where lived a woman of genius who held van will tell you the latest aspects of the a pen, exiled by a man who held a scepter Bourse at Paris, the price of the public and a sword. But the ideas have not time funds, and the value of industrial com- to fix themselves upon Madame de Staël

and the political coterie which she inspired with her views. We will not pause to dwell upon her once commanding position, but, en passant, remark that her works are fast disappearing from the mind, just as this shore disappears from the gaze of the passer-by.

Besides, at each moment some new object comes to attract the attention. Here is a passing boat laden with wood and surmounted by two white sails disposed in a picturesque style ; there is the bell which sounds to warn the next post of the approach of the steamer ; now the boat stops, the small craft approach, a cord is thrown to the boatmen; all is agitation, hurry, and apprehension. Then comes the tumult of debarkation, and the curiosity shown toward the newly arrived, especially if any among them are young or good - looking. Then the wheels recommence their movement, and the waves which they create rock for some distance the little boats which have not yet had time to retire.



But we have passed Nyon, we are as gestures and language and unceremonious far as the point Yvoire, which projects into bearing contrast strongly with the pleasant the lake at the right. Here we leave the manners of those young Italian noblemen, small part of the lake, all that is visible exiled from their country by a jealous desfrom the environs of Geneva, and enter the potism. There goes a Frenchman, makbroader expanse. The shores of Savoy retire, and the eye, reaching to a distance over an immense liquid plain, is no more attracted by the objects which the distance renders less conspicuous. Then, such is human consistency, that indifference commences gaining upon you, and the steamboatthis most charming mode of transportation through space, without jar, without fatigue, without being discommoded as in a carriage, free in your movements, at liberty to walk or to sit, this ideal of locomotion, of which humanity has not been put in possession until our day-appears, by the regularity of its movements, to deeply depress the spirits, and induce apathy and ennui.

It is then that dull ennui turns from the sky and the landscape toward your fellowtravelers, and endeavors to amuse itself by studying their nationalities in their general appear- | ing conversation with everybody, while ance, and their character in their physiog- the Englishman, snugly trimmed for the nomy. All Europe frequently has repre- voyage, holds himself as stiff and upright sentatives on the steamboat of Lake Gene- upon the deck as a ship mast, or marches va. Here are grouped some German stu- back and forth like an officer on the watch. dents, uncomfortable neighbors, whose rude He does not address a word to any one,



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time to time recalls the
passengers thither for a
moment. Now it is occa-
sioned by the landing at the
port of Ouchy, below Lau-

on is
Vevay, the pretty little
Vaudois city that bathes
its feet in the lake ; still
further on is Clarens, a
name made poetic by the
genius of Rousseau, and
which recalls the sweet Ju-
lie d'Etanges. Already we
had left behind on the right
the rocks of Meillerie, from
the heights of which Saint
Preux was about to pre-
cipitate himself in despair.
The waters of the lake here
attain their greatest depth,
which exceeds nine hun-
dred feet. The sublime
character of this extremity
of Lake Leman, encircled
by mountains that become
precipitous on the Savoyan
shore, awakens anon the
admiration of the tourist.
We forget this mundane
Babel, and turn again to na.

The Château Chillon and its mournful legends carry you back to poetry more than to history, a proof of the masterly power of gen

ius. The “ Prisoner," of least of all to his own countrymen ; but he | Byron, is much better known than the hisholds his umbrella with a nervous hand, tory of Bonnivara. Soon, however, hisconsults his card assiduously, or imperturb- tory, poetry, and nature disappear before a ably reads his “Hand-Book for Switzer more urgent preoccupation : that of finding land." Lady strangers, come to contem- your trunk and not losing your baggage, plate the wonders of Switzerland, gather for we have come to the termination of our in the stern or descend to the saloon, and voyage; the enchantment of navigation, give themselves up to a charming prattle which, perhaps, we have not fully appreciin reciprocally detailing the minutiæ of ated, has ceased, and we fall again into the their toilet. The young ladies exchange material troubles which form the inevitable albums; and a few, forgetful of the lake ground-work of what is called a pleasure and its shores, read some new romance. trip. The prettiest enjoy the pleasure of being It is necessary to be in all haste, and looked at without having the appearance dispute with the crowd, all equally in a of seeing anything; and others, who are hurry, a place in one of the omnibuses not pretty, set themselves up in the charac- froin Villeneuve to Saint Maurice, and ter of duennas, and survey, with an inquisi- to assure yourself that your baggage is torial eye, both the admirers and the ad. well fastened to the carriage, and that it mired.

will not be deposited en route to Aigle However, the confusion on deck from



or Bex.


The pleasing impressions which are ex- creep rather than walk, that make inarperienced in the morning at Geneva from ticulate sounds in their throats in place of a view of the quiet azure of the sky, and words, whose laugh is a grimace, and whose the water, and the beautiful distinctness smile freezes you, that stop you as mendiof the landscape, yield here to the most cants, and whose contact with you causes severe realities.

an involuntary horThe dale of Va

ror, as if you were lais opens before

seized by a phantom you, traversed by

in the nightmare ? the Rhône on its

Yet they appear inway to the lake, the

offensive, and whatsame as in the morn

ever may be the ing you had at your

hideous complicaright that pleasant

tion that in them valley whence flows

attains to perfect the Arve, coming

ugliness, an uglifrom Chamouni, and

ness so monstrous commanded by bold

that it would disMont Blanc in the

grace a beast, yet I distance,

know not whether it But while this

is their early degraopens widely, the

dation or a kindly valley of the Rhone, more inclosed by high decay that extinguishes upon their features mountains, presents, in spite of its rich even the appearance of malice and all of vegetation, more somber perspectives, and the passions. What are these objects of has a mournful aspect. The snows do fear or of derision? They are idiots ! not shine so radiantly as those of Mont (cretins.) Unfortunate race! It would Blanc, which appear like a glittering carpet seem that Divine vengeance was wreaking spread out for angels to climb upon to the itself on them, that they are the cursed furthest verge of earth, and rise from thence offspring of some one of the Titans, who to heaven. Here they are scattering and tried to scale heaven by piling up mounthung upon the broken edges of cloud-capped ains, and were discomfited by the thunders summits, or else they appear in the distant of Jupiter. horizon to form mysterious and inaccess On the contrary, however, the fathers ible retreats.

of these poor idiots If the shades of

were a simple peoevening have com

ple and pious Chrismenced falling in

tians, who came to the valleys, a se

find pasturage for cret terror glides

their herds in these into the imagina

secluded valleys, tion of the unac

who passed their customed traveler

lives in prayer,

and at this threshold of

through lack of unknown solitudes,

bread lived upon leading to the sum

milk; who, through mit of the Alps, to

lack of wine, coolregions ever vexed

ed their thirst with with tempests, to a

the clear water of world which is al

the rivulets. But ways being men

this water, against aced with glaciers

which no instinct and avalanches.

could guard them, To the mournfulness of nature may be | tends to produce that most terrible of all added that which is inspired at the sight maladies, the goiter, which becomes heredof the inhabitants. What are these de- itary and acquires the fullest developformed dwarfs with a doltish look, a stupid ment; and under the influence of the same form, abortive efforts at humanity, that regime continued, the intellectual faculties

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