through Palmyra: none of these places seemed flourishing; and I note this as a rare exception to the general appearance of the towns we have visited.

When we reached this place, Rochester, and disgorged our luggage at the magnificent hotel "The Eagle," I hurried out to inspect the place. General Scott had particularly called my attention to it, and begged me to mark its rise and progress. In 1813, when he marched through it, it had, he said, only two chimneys. It was vain for me to attempt to count them now; for "increase and multiply" has been the order of the day, and those two nest eggs have produced chimneys enough to afford warmth to 20,000 inhabitants! The shops are excellent, and the size and depth of them extraordinary.

I viewed the Genesee river, which runs through the town; and also the splendid aqueduct which carries the Erie Canal across

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it; and took a rapid glance at the magnificent Town Hall. During my ramble I held converse with several of the townspeople, all anxious to be civil and to give me every information in their power.

I told them of General Scott's remark about their chimneys, and of my abortive attempt to number them. There is nothing like knowing how to throw in the "soft sawder." Civility is the "argent comptant" of all countries; and if you use it you'll get good interest for your money. I again repeat, and you must bear with the repetition, that a more agreeable, charming, communicative people I have never met with than the Americans.

Don't look for French grimace or kissing Italians; but have a little patience with them, be civil and undandified, and you soon find yourself well received and comfortable. I grant there is a little huskiness about their first manner; but that wears off,

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HIGH-SOUNDING NAMES.

and gives place to friendly communication and good fellowship. Also, I will again re-echo the assertion that I have never seen a beggar nor a drunken man; and I have never beheld a rude or forward action. The words "stranger" and "British officer" act as magic, and are a passe par tout.

Were I to venture a word of censure, it would be against the affectation of building many of their houses to represent Grecian temples; by which much valuable houseroom is sacrificed to galleries and porticocs, and useless display. Their fondness for Grecian, Roman, and high-sounding names for their towns and villages, to the abandonment of the appellations given by the ori ginal possessors of the soil-the poor homebereft Indian-I must also quarrel with. We have already passed through "Syracuse," "Utica," "Greece," "Rome," "Palmyra," "Hector," and even “Ovid!”

But as it waxeth late and I have to be

THE CRAVEN PAPINEAU.

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called betimes in the morning to view the falls of the Genesee river, I shall only tell you that at supper we had a splendid display of beauty; and that since then I have heard nothing but thumping pianos, the warbling of voices, and hearty peals of laughter.

Every one with whom I have conversed, the lower as well as the higher classes, all seem to hold in detestation the "craven Papineau," and their execrations were loud and long against the falsely-named "patriots," and the vile sympathisers.

Good night!

LETTER XXII.

NIAGARA-Night View of the Falls-AnecdotesJourney from Rochester - Falls of the GeneseeTheir Utility has Injured their Beauty-Banks of the River-Ridgeroad to Lockport-No Gambling in America-Its Absence supplied by Speculation -Clarkson-Lake Erie-Lockport-Niagara.

Cataract Hotel, Falls of Niagara,

MY DEAR S

Saturday Night, Sept. 12, 1840.

By casting your eye at the date of this letter, you will perceive we have made a glorious day's work; for this morning I beheld the sun rise in all its majestic splendour on the Falls of the Genesee, and this evening I have seen him set in a blaze of refulgent light on those of Niagara !

Niagara! What an event it is in a man's