MANDARIN MEANNESS.

421

curiously the various parts of our dress. The civil officer, also, condescended to send for our ever-pointed pencil; and Mr. S. seeing how much he was pleased with it, determined in his own mind to ask him to accept of it; but the sly fellow saved him that trouble, by putting it into his pocket. This unhandsome trick is quite characteristic of the Chinese mandarins, amongst whom we seldom meet with a truly respectable man. Delicacy of feeling, and uprightness of principle are unknown amongst them, and the highest officers of government make their way to their distinguished eminence, by a course of chicanery and deceit.

Returning to the boat, we were accompanied by the military and naval captains, and by Tae-laou-yay, who appeared very anxious to bring matters to an amicable settlement. He advised us by all means to accept of the present, otherwise the general would be displeased. We told him, that we could not think of it, unless they would receive something in return; in case of their refusal thus to exchange presents, as we were in want of provisions, we said we must buy from the people; and if they were resolved not to allow this, we must remain at anchor, till they would. On hearing this, he grasped our hands, and began to beg and pray that we would not delay our departure, as it would involve them all in trouble.

The evening having now closed in, we were constrained to depart, and leave them to act as they thought proper. A little after dark, we reached the vessel, and had scarcely taken some refreshment, when the presents arrived; and as the weather was stormy, we could do no less than allow them to be received on board. We now found, that instead of supplying a few necessaries, ac

422

EXCHANGE OF PRESENTS.

cording to our list, they had provided a quantity far beyond what we required. We had asked for two pigs only, and they had sent ten; besides ten sheep, some bags of floor, two of peas, and two of millet, with a number of ducks and fowls.

The foolish people, however, had thrown the pigs and sheep altogether, with their legs tied, into the hold of the boat (the sheep being undermost), and had shut down the hatch; so that when they arrived alongside, seven sheep were dead, and the eighth required to be killed immediately, in order to render it fit for food. We therefore took seven pigs, and three sheep, with the other articles, and gave twelve bags of rice in return. The police officers who came with the presents, made some objection to this, but we soon overruled their scruples, and the boat returned to land.

The next morning the messenger came again, saying, that the mandarins had received the sheep and pigs, but that the rice could on no account be accepted, and they had, therefore, brought it back. We observed, that they had probably returned the rice, on account of the smallness of the quantity, and that we would give them five or ten bags more. This put the old messenger into a fever; and he assured us, that the mandarins did not want any, much or little. We replied, that the rice had been once given, and it was disrespectful to take back presents. The messenger then said, that he had orders to throw the rice into the sea, if we would not take it. "Do as you please," we said, "but we cannot receive it on board." "I shall be beaten," continued he, "if I return without delivering the rice, so I beseech you to take it." We replied, that the great officers of his imperial majesty could

DEPARTURE FROM KE-SAN-SO.

423

never be so unreasonable, as to beat a man for what he could not help; we felt assured, therefore, that no evil would result from it. Finding every argument unavailing, he returned on shore.

About two hours after, we observed the same boat approaching the ship, with a mandarin on board, bringing the rice; but before he could get alongside, we were already under weigh, and in a short time in full sail, bidding adieu to Ke-san-so, and the mandarins likewise. Having a good breeze, we sailed quickly along the coast, and arrived opposite Wei-hae before evening; where, as the weather was threatening, and the equinoctial gales expected, we thought it best to anchor.

Our stock of water being expended, we employed the crew, on the 22nd of September, in getting off a supply from the shore. In this work, we were assisted both by mandarins and people, who diligently exerted themselves, chiefly with the view of getting us away as soon as possible. At this place, and Ke-san-so together, we distributed about three thousand volumes.

Before leaving Ke-san-so, an unpleasant circumstance occurred on board, which may be adverted to, for the purpose of shewing how much inconvenience sometimes results from the fears and passions of one's fellow travellers. The chief mate of the vessel had, from the first, taken umbrage at not being allowed higher wages, when called upon to proceed on this unusual, and somewhat hazardous excursion. Being unacquainted with the coast, and the character of the people, he had greatly magnified the difficulties of the undertaking, in his own mind; and had even prejudiced the men against the expedition. Much unpleasant feeling was the result,

424

DISPUTE ON BOARD.

and on the evening of the 20th, it came to an open rupture. It appeared, that during our absence on shore, in the morning, a number of mandarins had been on board, one of whom frightened the mate, by making signs of cutting throats and chopping off heads, which, added to his former apprehensions, made him think that our condition was by no means safe. Whilst at supper, therefore, he informed us of what had happened, and intimated his intention of taking the vessel out of the harbour the next morning. The captain asked him, how he would effect it? and he answered, that the men would very soon obey his commands, if he should direct them to weigh anchor. This was too

much for the captain to bear, and an altercation ensued, which led to abuse, and would have ended in blows, had we not interfered, and told the mate that his conduct was quite mutinous, and would justify his being put in irons immediately. This remonstrance somewhat cooled him down, and he attempted to smooth over the affair, by saying that we must forget and forgive. Had he been allowed to proceed, however, the consequences would have been serious; and, as he had rendered the minds of the men disaffected, the whole object of the expedition might have been defeated, and the vessel placed in extreme jeopardy.

CHAPTER XVII.

PROCEEDINGS ON THE SOUTH OF SHAN-TUNG.

VOYAGE ROUND THE PROMONTORY-LANDING AT TSING-HAE-STATE OF THE TOWN AND DEFENCES-INTERVIEWS WITH THE PEOPLE-AND MANDARINS-EXCURSION THROUGH THE VILLAGES- SIMPLICITY OF THE NATIVES-CALMNESS OF THE WOMEN'-VOYAGE PROSECUTED — A SECOND LANDING-ANNOYING INTERFERENCE-SUSPICIONS OF THE INHABITANTS SOLITARY JOURNEY-INTERESTING GROUP OF VILLAGERS -VARIOUS ADVENTURES - A NEW HARBOUR DISCOVERED VISIT TO NAN-HUNG-ENQUIRIES AND ALARMS-A CHINESE FORT DESCRIBEDGEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS-DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES-AND RECEPTION OF THE MISSIONARIES-DRESS AND HABITS OF THE MENAPPEARANCE OF THE WOMEN-THEIR DWELLINGS TEMPLES AND

DOMESTIC ANIMALS

STATE OF THE PEOPLE-REFLECTIONS.

On the 23rd of September, we got under weigh, and stood for the promontory of Shan- tung, with a fine. breeze, which carried us clear round to the south side; so that we came to an anchor to the westward of Staunton's Island, in the evening. We observed a number of villages along the sea beach, on our way, but the shore was so open to the north-east gales, which were to be expected about that time, that we did not think it prudent to stop in a situation so much exposed.

The next day, we stood nearer in shore, under the lee of cape Macartney; but the weather was so rough, that we could not land. An attempt was made in the afternoon to reach the beach, but we carried away both masts of the boat, and after several ineffectual efforts, were obliged to return.