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on a more formidable voyage ; but she does not go to Norway to fish; but all has already compassed safely the distance who love travelling and are fond of the from Trondhjem, and we have no fears sea, especially when it is not rough, would about her ability to make another run of have shared our enjoyment of the three over three hundred miles to Tromsö. days' voyage to Tromsö. Smooth water
On Sunday, the 7th of August, we leave allows one thoroughly to appreciate the our good landlady weeping copiously, and grandeur of the scenery, while the deck of row out, attended by a regular flotilla of the steamer presents a constantly chang: baggage-laden boats, to the north-going ing picture of life and stir, as in a part of steamer. The captain kindly saves us a the country where roads are unknown all long pull to the nearest stopping-place, by communication is by sea. The spectacle taking us on board off the river's mouth, of the Lofoten Islands is alone well worth and soon we are rapidly leaving our little the journey from England, and once seen bay. As each well-known point is passed, can never be forgotten. From the little and river and house and beach lose their land-locked bay of Grytö, where a fishdistinctness beneath the soft mantle of merchant's brightly painted house, with enshadowing hills, the mysterious spell of its gay flag, seems to protest against the Norway comes upon us in all its strength, sternness of surrounding nature, we look inspiring a deep affection for the country, across Vest Fjord to that marvellous barits life and people, which will retain a rier against the fury the western ocean. lasting hold upon our minds, and compel For a space of sixty miles the imposing us almost instinctively to turn our steps front is visible, trending away from the hither again in future years. One word coast to the south-west, but gradually ap. of caution ere we go north, to anybody proaching as you sail northwards, until who may intend to visit Norway for fish- the distinctive character of the group be. ing. Do not go out upon the mere chance comes lost in the myriad islands that of finding sport, for disappointment will be fringe the mainland. With the noonday the inevitable result. All salmon-rivers sun high in the heavens, the appearance worthy of the name are either preserved is that of a solid wall of rock, pinnacled by the owners or leased to Englishmen, by a thousand fantastic peaks, whose and it is practically impossible to get jagged summits rise in sharp outline from leave even for a day; for the men who the uniform purple with which distance take rivers in Norway pay a good price clothes their base; but when the evening and go a long journey with the sole object rays stream through the narrow sounds, of fishing hard for a few weeks, so they throwing into various relief each hillside can scarcely be expected to give up any that they strike, the depth of the island of this very limited time to strangers. phalanx is manifested, and the sombre Neither is good trout-fishing to be had, coloring transformed by the glorifying unless you know exactly where to go for presence of a northern sunset. The it, which information is not to be gotten in prospect is deeply impressive, and as we guide-books; and we have met friends, approach more nearly, every detail is who have carried a valuable collection of seen to be in conformity with the magnif. fishing-tackle, but found no better sport icence of the general outline. In two in Norway than those gentlemen who pa- hours the steamer has crossed the Vest rade in the Field their splendid takes of Fjord, and stopped beneath one of the a few dozen trout, averaging four to the grandest peaks of the Lofotens, three pound, in Scotland ! The case is very thousand feet high, which rises so sheer different when the right places are visited, out of the sea, as barely to leave room and no trout-fishing in Norway can be for the fishing station of Heningsvaer at called good where the number to be its base. Nothing now marks the imporcaught is limited or the average weight tance of the place save the number of below a pound. If salmon are your de iron rings let into the rocks, to which hunsire, write to Conşul Kjeldsberg, who fre. dreds of vessels are made fast during the quently has the disposal of rivers for a cod-fishing season in winter. The sea is single season, when the proprietors are kept free from ice all the year round by unable to go out; the consul's information the warmth of the Gulf Stream, and thus is absolutely reliable, and he has a won employment is given to many thousands derful knack of providing the very thing of people from the whole coast, who turn you want. But, above all things, never to the sea for means of subsistence deexpect to have good sport unless a plan nied to them by the frozen land. of operations has been arranged before Soon we are off again, threading our leaving England. Everybody, however, I way northwards among the islands, often through channels so narrow that a stone some claim after all to be the "Paris of could be thrown to land on either side. the North.” But at all events there are Out of our course, but not far distant, is no Laps in Paris, wbile bere their brightly the famous Maelström, one of the numer. trimmed dresses enliven every street corous passages between the islands from ner. They have an encampment and a Vest Fjord to the ocean, where, at balf: herd of reindeer in yonder valley across tide, the water races through the confined the fjord, whither they come every sumspace with irresistible force. To visit it, mer, with the double inducement of findone must embark on board a local steam-ing good pasturage and making profit out er, which makes a tour of the whole group of inquisitive tourists. In winter they go of islands, and the cruise would well repay back to Sweden, where they appear to the loss of a few days thus occupied; but have regular settlements, and are even for the present we must hasten on to provided with government schools and Tromsö, and look forward to some suture teachers ; indeed, for all their uncouth year for that expedition. There happens looks and savage ways, every one of them to be a famous doctor from Bergen among can read and write their unintelligible the passengers, the report of whose jour- Finsk language. We had ample time for ney has preceded him, causing the ship to thoroughly exploring Tromsö; as the resemble a floating hospital by the num- launch, which was to take us to our shootber of patients who come on board for ing quarters, had been temporarily dis. advice. He is evidently bent upon the abled by her gallant exertions on the voysame errand as ourselves, and hoping to age from Fosmoen; and for the three travel incognito, for we notice that he has dustiest and hottest days in all the suma gun and a curious dog, that may be bet-mer we were compelled to wander through ter than it looks, as these Norwegian the shadeless streets of a hot and dusty “ sporting hounds” often are. As a pre- town. At last we make a start, and after caution against hydrophobia, the introduc. a few hours' steaming, cross latitude 70°, tion of foreign dogs is now absolutely soon to drop anchor close under the winforbidden by a law; but, at the time of its dows of our new abode. passing, many Englishmen left their set. There is a weird solitude about the ters in Norway, and these have become place which at first is rather depressing; the parents of a wonderful race of ani- no crops will grow here, and there is not mals, that should be most valuable, if the a sign of human existence visible, except price usually asked is a criterion. Our the low-built farmhouse, looking inexteam consisted of three useful quasi-set- pressibly small and mean amidst so much ters, who by no means appreciated the natural magnificence. Even the grass, charms of a sea voyage, and frightened upon which, still unmown, the farmer's the children of Tromsö not a little with hopes are centred, seems as if it only their boisterous delight at being on shore grew to make a foreground for the picagain. Tromsö is called, so the guide ture of undulating moor and snow-capped books inform us, the “ Paris of the North," peaks that rise ridge behind ridge from but they wisely forbear to enlarge upon the green fringe of the fjord. Multitudes the points of resemblance. The town lies of screaming birds resent this rare intruon a low, green island gently sloping to sion upon their hunting-grounds, wroth at the sea; the best view is got from the being compelled even for a moment to other side of the fjord, when red-roofed leave their favorite haunts. High above houses and the fresh verdure of their sur- our heads, almost out of sight in the dazroundings form a pleasant contrast to the zling blue, circle the mysterious loms, almost oppressive monotony of cliffs and which nevertheless find their prey in the peaks. A brisk trade in fish and skins is waters beneath — for these are the famous carried on with Archangel, and the harbor northern divers, of a naturalist's ambition is filled with vessels hailing thence, so the most difficult prize ; a flock of wild that you might think the Russians were geese are chattering on the shore over already in possession of a port they are there, whose cunning will outwit the supposed to covet eagerly. Hearing that wariest stalker; while angry gulls of all Spitzbergen is only three days' sail dis- sorts and sizes wheel around, keeping at tant, and that a match on snow-shoes was a respectful distance however, as if knowdecided on the ninth of June, makes one ing themselves to be unlike those sober realize how far north Tromsö is; yet there eider-ducks, which swim about close to us are hotels, and magistrates, and fashion- in easy security, protected by stringent able shops, and people wearing black coats laws from harm. But where are the and high hats; so possibly the town has grouse that we have come in quest of?
Three years ago they lay so thick in the liza says. It is perhaps as well, under birch scrub, not two hundred yards from these circumstances, to assume a humil. the beach, that twenty or thirty brace was ity, even if we have it not; and indeed the the day's bag without dogs; and now with present writer has always been shy of three setters ranging over the whole venturing into exalted regions, or laying fjeld we must search high and low to profane hands upon persons of quality. secure enough for food ; in fact, our sport But when a family of rank comes in our is reduced to “shooting for the pot.” The way by necessity, it would be cowardice to prolongation of a severe winter almost recoil from the difficulties of the portraitinto June, though a boon to the fishing in. ure. Should we fail to represent in black terest, had proved fatal here; during the and white the native grace, the air noble, nesting season snow lay thick upon the the exalted sentiments which belong by ground, and the birds were still sitting right to members of the aristocracy, the only a week before the opening day. readers will charitably impute the blame
So there was nothing left sor us but to rather to the impression made upon our accept the inevitable, and begin the jour-nerves by a superiority so dazzling than ney homewards; in a week's time we to any defect of good-will. Besides, in reached Christiania, where, instead of day. the present case, which is a great aid to light at ten, we found darkness at seven; modesty, the family had been suddenly gloomy too were we at having to leave the elevated, and were not born in the purple. enchanted land our only consolation to Lady Lindores was a commoner by birth, look forward to another year for a renewal and not of any very exalted lineage of those happy days, with the memory of woman quite within the range of ordinary which we inust meanwhile be contented. rules and instincts; and even Lady Edith
E. A. ARNOLD. had been Miss Edith till within a few
years. Their honors were still new upon them: they were not themselves much used to these honors any more than their
humble chronicler; with which preface we From Blackwood's Magazine.
enter with diffidence upon the recent bistory of the noble house of Lindores.
The late earl had been a man unfortuTHE explanation which was given to nate in his children. His sons by his John Erskine on the highroad between first marriage had died one after another, Dalrulzian and Lindores, as it is still inheriting their mother's delicate health. more important to us than to him, must His second wife had brought him but one be here set forth at more length. There son, a likely and healthy boy; but an ac. are some happy writers whose mission it cident, one of those simplest risks which is to expound the manners and customs of hundreds are subject to, and escape daily, the great. To them it is given to know carried this precious boy off in a moment. how duchesses and countesses demean His father, who had been entirely devoted themselves in their moments perdus, and to him, died afterwards of a broken heart, they even catch as it flies that airy people said. The next brother, who was grace with which the chit-chat of so- in india with his regiment, died there ciety makes itself look like something of almost at the same time, and never knew consequence. Gilded salons in Belgravia, that he had succeeded to the family hondainty boudoirs in Mayfair, not to speak ors. And thus it was that the Honorable of everything that is gorgeous in the rural Robert Lindores, a poor gentleman, living palaces, which are as so many centres of on a very straitened income, in a cheap light throughout England - are the scen- French town, with his wife and daughters, ery in which they are accustomed to en. and as little expecting any such elevation shrine the subjects of their fancy. And as a poor curate expects to be made Archyet, alas ! to these writers when they have bishop of Canterbury, became Earl of Lindone all, yet must we add that they fail to dores and the head of the family, without satisiy their models. When the elegant warning or preparation. It does not perforeigner, or what is perhaps more conso: haps require very inuch preparation to nant with the tastes of the day, the refined come to such advancement; and the new American, ventures to form his opinion of earl was to the manner born. But Mrs. the habits of society from its novels, he is Lindores, who was a woman full of imagalways met with an amused or indignant ination, with nerves and ideas of her own, protestation. As if these sort of people received a considerable shock. She had knew anything about society! Lady Ade- no objection to being a countess; the coro
THE LADIES LINDORES.
net, indeed, was pleasant to her as it is passed through London, and they could to most people. She liked to look at it on scarcely speak to each other when they her handkerchiefs: there is no such pretty met in their mutual wonder. “Poor little ornament. But it startled her mind and Rintoul, all the same, poor little beggar!”. shook her nerves just at first. And it Robin Lindores said. To think of the made a great, a very great, change in the poor boy cut off in a moment, whose family life. Instead of strolling about as death had purchased them all these honthey had done for years, with one maid for ors, affected the young people with a the mother and daughters, and a shabby strange awe, and almost remorseful pain. cheap French servant, who was valet and They felt as if somehow, without knowing factotum; going to all kinds of places; it, they had been the cause of that terrible living as they liked ; and though, with sudden removal of all the hopes that had many a complaint, getting a great deal of rested on their little cousin's head. Lady pleasure out of their lives: there was an Lindores berself declared that she dared immediate shaking of themselves together not think of her predecessor, the mother
a calling in of stray habits and fancies, of that poor boy, “tbe dowager,” alas ! - a jump into their new place, as of an poor lady. The dowager was younger inexperienced and half-alarmed rider, not than her successor in the family honors, at all sure how he was to get on with his having been a second wife. They were unaccustomed steed. This at least was all silent with respectful awe when her the mood of Lady Lindores. The earl name was mentioned; but the earl said knew all about it better than she did. pshaw! and thought this superfluous. He Even to be merely the “honorable” had was more used to it; he had been born in fluttered her senses a little; and it had the purple, and now that he had come, never occurred to her that anything fur though unexpectedly, to his kingdom, be ther was possible. The family was poor knew how to fill that exalted place.
- still poor, even when thus elevated as it The earl was a man of a character which were to the throne; but the poverty of the dever, up to this time, had been estimated Honorable Robert was very different from as it deserved. He had been quite an that of the right honorable earl. In the easy-going sort of person in his former one case it was actual poverty, in the estate. In his youth he was said to have other only comparative. To be sure it been extravagant. Since his marriage. was, when one had time to think, distress which had been an imprudent marriage, ing and troubling not to have money in so far that he might perhaps have got enough to refurnish the Castle (the taste a richer wife had he tried, but which was of the late lord had been execrable) and wise so far that the income upon which make many improvements which were they lived chiefly came from that wise quite necessary. But that was very differ. he had let himself go quietly enough upon ent from not having money enough to the current, there being no motive to possess a settled home of your own any struggle against it. The very best that where, which had been their previous they could make of it was simply to “get condition. The earl took his measures along; and get along they did without without a moment's delay. He dismissed putting any force upon their inclinations. the servants who had followed them in He was always able to secure his comtheir poverty, and engaged others in Lon- forts, such as were indispensable; and as don, who were more proper to the service he liked the easier routine of a wandering of a noble family. They travelled quite life, he did not object, as he said, to make humbly, indeed in their old half-Bohemian a sacrifice for the education of his chil. way, until they reached London, and then dren and their amusement, by living in all at once cast their slough. The ladies places where the pleasures were cheap put on their clothes, which they had and there was no dignity to keep up. He stopped to procure in Paris, and suddenly had in this sense been very complying, blossomed out (though in deep mourning) both as a husband and a father, and had into the likeness of their rank. It was a allowed himself to be guided, as his family thing to make the steadiest heart beat. thought, by their wishes quite as much, Young Robin was at Chatham, a lieuten. at least, as by his own. He had not in ant in a marching regiment - a young no- these days been in the least a severe body, pleased to be noticed even by the father, oroshown marks of a worldly mind. townsfolk; and lo! in a moment, this in- What was the use? The girls were too signiticant lieutenant became Lord Rin- young as yet to have become valuable intoul. It was like a transformation scene; struments of ambition, and he had not he came to meet his people when they learnt to think of them as anything but
children. But when this extraordinary | over-setting his heavy chair as he sprang change came in their existence, the easy to his feet, had finished reading his letter dilettante — whose wants were limited to standing upright, trembling with excitea few graceful knick-knacks, an elegant ment, his face fushed and crimson. little meal, good music, when procurable, " What is it?" they had all cried. “Roband a life undisturbed by vulgar cares – in ?". Naturally the son who was away altered his very nature, as his family was the first thought of the women. For thought. Hitherto his wife and his girls a minute the father had made no reply, had done everything for him, aided by and their anxiety was beyond words. the ubiquitous, the handy, the all-accom- Then he put down the letter solemnly; plished Jean or François, who was half-a- and went to his wife and took her hand. dozen men in one - cook, valet, footman, “ There is nothing wrong with Robin,” he pattern man-of-all-work. They arranged said ; “but it comes by trouble to others, the rooms in every new place they went if not to us. My dear, you are the Count. to, so that the fact that these rooms were ess of Lindores." It was some minutes those of a hotel or lodging-house should before the real meaning of this communibe masked by familiar prettinesses, car- cation penetrated their astonished minds; ried about with them. They gave a care. and the first proof of understanding which ful supervision to his meals, and arranged the new Lady Lindores gave was to cover everything, so that papa should get the her face and cry out, "Oh, poor boy! oh, best out of his limited existence and none poor Jane, poor Jane !" with a pang at her of its troubles. And as there was noth heart. It was not all grief for the other ing against Mr. Lindores – no bad re- - could any one expect that? — but the pute, but with an honorable at his name poignant state of emotion which this
every English club, every cercle, was strange terrible good fortune caused her, open to him.
He always dressed care. had a sharpness of anguish in it for the fully; now and then he helped a wealthier moment. The girls went away hushed friend to a bargain in the way of art. He and silenced, unable to eat their breaksaw a great deal of society. On the fasts, to find some black ribbons instead whole, perhaps, for a man without ambi- of the bright ones they wore. They wept tion, and upon whom neither the fate of a few tears as they went to their rooms his children nor the use of his own life over poor young Kintoul; but they had pressed very heavily, he got as much sat. known very little of the boy, and the isfaction out of his existence as most strange excitement of the change soon men; and so might have lived and died, crept into their veins. Lady Caroline and no man knowing what was really in him, Lady Edith! instead of the humble Miss had not poor young Rintoul broken his Lindores. No wonder that it went to neck over that ience, and drawn his father their heads. with him into the grave. From the mo- And from that moment the new earl ment when the letter, placed calmly by was a different man. He threw off all bis Mr. Lindores's plate at breakfast, as languor, took everything into his own though it meant nothing particular, had hands. Those little economies which it its black seals broken, he was another had been so necessary to insist upon yes.
How distinctly they all recollected terday were now absurd, notwithstanding that scene!- a lofty French room, with that the Earls of Lindores were far from bare white walls and long, large windows, rich — comparatively. The family came the green Persians closed to keep out the home rapidly, as has been said ; pausing sunshine, one long line of light falling in Paris to get their dresses, to dismiss across the polished foor, where one of the faithful servants of their poverty, who these shutters had got unfastened; the would be of no use, the eari decided, in spacious coolness in the midst of heat, the change of circumstances. He be. which is characteristic of such houses, haved very well, everybody said, to poor like the atinosphere in M. Alma Tadema's Lady Lindores, his brother's young pictures; the white-covered table with its widow, who had thus been left at once Howers and pretty arrangements; the girls widowed and childless. He showed in their white cool dresses; and François “every consideration;" would not allow lifting the small silver cover from his her to be hurried; waited her convenmaster's favorite dish. All the composure ience and her pleasure in every way. But, and quiet of this interior had been broken naturally, that poor lady was glad to take in a moment. There had been a sudden refuge with her own family in her desolastifled cry, and Mr. Lindores, pushing the tion; and within a few months, the wan. table from him, disordering the dishes, dering exile family, familiar with all the