ifthmus ftand Giena and Coffeir, between which is a deep valley, where traces of the

may be found at every step, but which,

sea may

though barren and deftitute of verdure, is very paffable. In this valley, water, and a fpecies of the Acacia, named Naboul, which produces gum arabic, are found. The Arabs chew this fhrub, no doubt, to quench their thirst. The mines of emeralds and precious metals, which the ancient writers mention (p), and which formerly were one principal fource of the wealth of Egypt, still fubfift among the mountains, befide the road; but the ignorance of the modern Egyptians, and the fear of expofing themselves to the oppreffions of the Beys, prevent thefe mines from being worked.

The port of Coffeir is fmall, and can only be entered by large boats; the fhipping are obliged to remain in the road, where they find good anchorage, which occafioned the Greeks and Romans to keep their navy there. The town, or rather the village, only contains at prefent about two hundred mud-walled cottages, and is commanded by

(p) Pliny, Strabo, Diodorus Siculus.

a caftle, flanked with four towers, the fire of which would be fufficient to defend itself and the shipping of the port; but it is fuffered to fall in ruins, and its whole garrison is a porter, whose employment it is to open and shut an old iron gate. The inhabitants are a mixture of Turks and Arabs, governed by a Cachef, who is dependant on the governor of Gieną. The enormous duties of ten per cent. which are paid in kind, by all merchandize landed at Coffeir, is no encouragement to trade. Yet the tyranny of the Beys, the oppreffions of the governor, and the dread of the Bedouins, are fhackles much more terrible. Notwithstanding which, the fituation of this port is fo favourable for the interchange and vent of the productions of Egypt, Arabia, and India, that, though this commerce is much diminished, it ftill fubfifts. Any powerful maritime nation might remove these obftacles at a small expence, and afcertain prodigious profits from this important trade; but thefe muft depend on the means employed.

M. Chevalier, Commandant General of the French establishments in Bengal, has lately arrived at Grand Cairo, by the way

of

of Coffeir; and I imagine, Sir, you will not be difpleased to learn by what means a Frenchman could protect himself from Turks and Arabs, equally defirous to fhare his fpoils. He has shewn me his journal, which will teach us the proper mode of traversing thefe deferts. His veffel having been ftruck by lightning on the coaft of Malabar, and afterwards difmafted off Gedda, he was obliged to land at this port, and this accident caufed him to lofe the proper season of gaining Suez; he muft either wait for the next monfoon, or venture, with fmall veffels, on a tempeftuous fea; and this, dangerous as it was, his zeal to ferve his country made him determine to undertake. After combating three months against contrary winds, and being repeatedly in danger of perishing, he reached Coffeir, which place he left in a few days, in company with fix Europeans, mounted on camels. They traverfed the long valley which croffes the ifthmus, the bottom of which is level, covered with fand, and petrified fhells. This valley is by turns narrow and fpacious; here bordered by mountains, from the fides of which the winter torrents tear rocky fragments of granite,

granite, jafper, alabafter, and porphyry; and there by fandy hills, on which not a fhrub can be feen. The fun is eternally darting his burning rays on thefe fands and naked rocks, which reflect a light injurious to the eyes, and a heat almoft too exceffive for man or beaft to endure. M. Chevalier and his companions performed this journey in the month of July, during which not even night could afford them any eafe; for, the wind ceafing to blow, the fucceeding calm left them expofed to the fuffocating exhalations of the fcorching fands, which were the only bed they had to repofe upon. Amid thefe fufferings, a little dough, half baked in the afhes, was their fole food, and their drink water, which having been carried feveral hours in fkins, rubbed over with an infectious oil, had contracted a fmell and tafte wholly infupportable. To these evils add a continual dread of being plundered by the Arabs, and the neceffity of watching all night, and you will have fome idea of what a man of fortitude is capable of enduring. M. Chevalier had forefeen all that might happen. His camels were tied to each ether, that they might not feparate in cafe of

an

The Europeans while the others

an attack. One of them was loaded with two small cannons, and the whole company, provided with double-barrelled guns, fabres, and piftols, were continually under arms. They encamped themfelves every night, and the camel-drivers were forbidden, on peril of their lives, to approach. mounted guard, in turn, took fome little repofe. They were indebted for their fafety to these wife precautions; for, on the third day, fixty Arabs approached to attack them. At the very first fire, the guides, who acted in concert with the robbers, fled among the rocks, but the French, with their chief at their head, advanced in good order, and employed their little artille

ry

with fuccefs. The Bedouins, after ftanding fome well-dire led discharges, fled behind the mountains; and though they returned feveral times to the charge, during the route, the vigilance, dauntlefs behaviour, and firearms of the Europeans, drove the enemy as often back, whofe intention was to pillage, not to fight.

At laft, after a march of four days and a half, they arrived at Giena, parched by the fun, thirsty to excefs, and half dead with

hunger