extenfive ruins, indicate the grandeur of this city, the inhabitants of which, according to Strabo, worshipped Ifis and Venus (b). Among these ruins, on a small eminence, are two ancient temples, worthy of admiration. The largest only two hundred feet long, and one hundred and forty in breadth, is furrounded by a double frize. It is divided into feveral lofty apartments, fupported by large columns, which have a fquare ftone. for their capital, on which is fculptured the head of Ifis. Hieroglyphics, in compartments, cover the walls. Coloffal figures ftand at the outward angles, and ten flights of steps lead to the fummit of the temple.

The second, standing on the right, is fmaller. The cornice, which is carried round it, and the gate, are decorated by falcons, with fpreading wings. A doubled fquare ftone ferves as a capital to columns which fupport the roof. On the walls, various rows of figures, of men, birds, and animals, are fculptured.

These hierogly

(b) Strabo, lib. 17.

phics were the hiftory of the times. Could we read them, we fhould probably know whether thefe were temples dedicated to Ifis or Venus. The fame folidity may be remarked here as in those of Abydus, but less grandeur and magnificence.

Before I conclude my letter, I will quote what Strabo fays concerning the averfion in which the Tentyrites held the crocodile, a reptile revered in many other cities. "'The "inhabitants of Tentyra abhor the croco"dile, and wage continual war against him, "as the most dangerous of animals. Other.

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men, thinking him the moft pernicious, "avoid him; the Tentyrites, on the contrary, cagerly hunt for and kill him, "wherever they can find him. The Pfylli of Cyrene are known to poffefs a certain

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power over ferpents, and it is commonly "thought the Tentyrites are endowed with "the like virtue over crocodiles. They,

plunge and fwim audacioufly into the "middle of the Nile, without receiving "harm. During the fhows exhibited at

Rome, feveral crocodiles were put into a bafon, on one fide of which was an open

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ing for them to fwim out. Into this ba"fon the Tentyrites threw themselves among these monfters, took and drew them "forth in a net. After expofing them to "be seen by the Roman people, they once "more intrepidly feized and brought them "back (i)." A fact thus attefted by a judicious hiftorian, who was himself an eye witnefs, cannot be doubted. Do not the natives of the Caribbe iflands, armed only with a knife, advantageously combat the fhark, one of the most dreadful of sea monfters? There ftill are found determined men in Egypt, who dare attack the crocodile. They fwim towards him, and, as he opens his formidable jaws to fwallow them up, they thrust in a plank of fir, to which a is tied. The crocodile, by clofing his jaws forcibly, indents his fharp teeth fo far into the wood as to be unable to draw them out; the Egyptian fwims to fhore with his rope; after which feveral men draw on fhore and kill the monfter. This is not performed without danger, for fhould the

rope

(i) Strabo, lib. 17.

{wimmer

fwimmer fail in his attempt, he is inftantly devoured. I have never myself been a witness of this dangerous fport; but many people in Grand Cairo have affured me the thing is true.

I have the honour to be, &c.

LETTER

LETTER II.

GIENA, COPHTOS, COUS, AND THE ROUTE TO COSSEIR, ON THE RED SEA, DE

SCRIBED.

Cophtos, Cous, and Giena, in fucceffive pof feffion of the trade of the Red Sea. Labours of the Ptolemies to protect, and prefent state of, that trade. Defcription of the route from Giena to Coffeir, a small town and barbour, but with a good road. Precautions necessary in croffing the defert. Means of rendering the road fafer, and the advantages which would thence refult.

Grand Cairo.

FROM Dendera, Sir, Giena is feen upon an eminence. The ancients, who called it Cœnce (k), do not speak of any remarkable building it contained, nor is its present state more flourishing, although become the rendezvous of the caravans that go to Coffeir.

(k) Ptolemy, lib. 4. calls it Cueno, or the new town. C A canal