and fo loaded with mephitic vapours that it is difficult to keep a candle lighted.

Six lions heads, on two fides of the temple, ferve as water-fpouts. A very fingular ftair-cafe leads to the fummit of the building; it is formed by the ftones being inferted in the wall, from which they project fix feet; fo that, being only sustained on one fide, they appear fufpended in the air. Neither the walls, roof, nor columns of this edifice, are injured by time; and, did not the hieroglyphics, which are defaced in many places, fhew marks of age, it would feem as if newly built. Such is its folidity, it will stand for ages, unless purposely destroyed. The coloffal figures, the heads of which ferve as ornaments to the capitals of the columns, are in baffo relievo; but all the remaining hieroglyphics within the temple are cut into the stone,

On the left of this great building there is a fmaller one, at the farther end of which ftands a kind of altar. This appears to have been the fanctuary of the temple of Ofiris, I obferved before, Sir, that entrance was forbidden to fingers and dancers. The Egyptian priests invented feven vowels, to

each of which they affixed a found, like the notes of our gamut (d); and, that they might preserve this invention, they repeated, at ftated times, these vowels in the form of a hymn, the fucceffive tones and modulations of which produced an agreeable melody. This, no doubt, was the reason they excluded all inftruments of mufic from the temple; and to thefe were the Greeks indebted in the compofition of their language; which was fo mufical, and perfectly accented, as that a difcourfe, well delivered, was a pleafing recitative. Piccini, Gluck, and Sacchini, have taught us to admire the grating tones of the French language, by their learned and harmonious modulation; what then would they have done with these ancient tongues? Let us no longer be aftonished at the marvellous effects which are related concerning the mufic of the Greeks; for they poffeffed all the treasures of melody," all the riches of an imitative language, and fpoke, at once, to the ear, the understanding, and the heart. It is now time to quit

(d) Plutarch. De Ifide et Ofiride*.

* We remember no fuch paffage, nor on a flight revifion, can we find any fuch in the above cited treatife. It is perhaps an error of copying, or printing. T.

the

the antique temple of Ifmandes, befide which, according to Strabo, there was a foreft of the Acacia, confecrated to Apollo,' and of which there are fome remains, towards Farchout.

The Turkish government from Girga to Syene is by no means well eftablished; moft of the lands are poffeffed by independent Arabs. Those who inhabit the mountains, to the east of Girga, pay no tribute, but grant an asylum to all malecontents; nay, often embrace their caufe, and furnish thein with arms to re-enter Grand Cairo.

The island of Doum is not far diftant from. Girga (e), and above ftands the port of Bardis, afmall town dependent on the Grand Sheik. The government of this prince is very extenfive, and his ufual refidence is Farchout, befide which runs an arm of the Nile. He owns a vast inclosure here, in which are planted palms, dates, vines, orange trees, acacia, nabech, and the Arabian jasmine. Tufts of bafil, and clufters of rose bushes, are fcattered here and there among these trees, which, though planted

(e) Doum is the name which the Arabs give to the fan-leaved palm tree.

without

without either defign or tafte, afford most delightful fhades. Were nature and art combined, charming gardens might be formed, at a small expence; for this happy climate poffeffes a fruitful foil, water in abundance, the most odoriferous fhrubs, and a fky the moft ferene.

The village of Beliana is alfo dependant on the Grand Sheik, and fituated between two canals, which render it a most agreeable abode. Facing it are fome hamlets, inhabited by Arabs, who infeft the river with their piracies, especially during night. · Paffing the arm of the Nile which goes to Farchout, we come to Badjoura, whence we fee an agreeable ifland, and have a diftant profpect of the village of Attarif. The town of Hau, built on an eminence, overlooks the country to the weft; and hides the ruins of Diofpolis Parva (f), the little city of Jupi

ter.

The Egyptians had fecured this city from the inundation by their labours, which advantage Hau likewife enjoys. It rifes like an ifland, while the plains are overflowed

(f) Strabo, lib. 17. Ptolemy, lib. 4. place Diofpolis Parva, between Abydus and Tentyra, on a height, a Situation which perfectly agrees with the town of Hau.

with water.

The inhabitants of Badjoura, and the neighbouring hamlets, inter their dead there.

The rocks diverge from the eastern shore of the Nile, near the villages of Cafr and Fau; the first was formerly the town of which Abulfeda gives the following defcription: "Cafr is a day's journey fouth of "Cous, on the eaft fide of the river. The "neighbouring country abounds in corn and

palm trees, A great number of earthen veffels are made there, and difperfed over "the reft of Egypt (g)." Since the time of Abulfeda, the town of Cafr has loft the greatest part of its trade and inhabitants, and is now only a village of fmall impor

tance.

The western shore of the Nile, better peopled, affords a more fmiling profpect, of date tree groves, doum, difperfed around the houses, rich plains of wheat, and pafturage covered by flocks. The fmall town of Dendera contains nothing remarkable; but about a league to the weft are the remains of the ancient Tentyra. Heaps of rubbish, and

(g) Abulfeda, Description of Egypt.

extenfive