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hands and clothes and then raising his hand to his lips. He then remounted, and placing himself at the head of our party he escorted us into an extraordinary village formed in the rocks, out of which we saw women and children peeping at us. This district is watered by the Foum Guentis, and we amused ourselves with fishing for barbeau, or barbel, which ran from a quarter to one pound in weight, and which were caught in a primitive manner by a long stick with a cord attached to it and a baited hook and a float.

the right and the Plaine de Garel on the left; and at about 5 P.M. we reached the site of another Roman city called Aïn Roumi by the Arabs, and amidst great massive blocks of stone standing on end, doorways, and old walls, we found our tents all ready pitched for us. Here we visited an old Roman aqueduct, which is to be repaired to convey water to the plain below. It is impossible to store water in reservoirs, the caïd told me, as two days of the scirocco, or desert wind, would completely evaporate it. The night was so bitterly cold, owing to the north wind Next morning we started for a very inblowing from the Aures, that we made a teresting day's march. We were still at short sederunt of our dinner, sitting hud- an altitude of three thousand feet, and our dled up in great coats and rugs, and were route lay over the same rocky, burnt-up nearly petrified all night in our camp beds. plateaux. Our path, if path it could be This, however, was to be our last cold called, was made by the French soldiers night for some time to come, and next as a highway to the oasis of Negrine, morning we defiled under a glorious hot which lay to our east in the Sahara. It sun mainly over the same bare plains and was, however, but a track, and a very danmountains, and arrived for breakfast at gerous one, now literally open on either the remains of a once mighty Roman city. side to frightful precipices, now carved It is named by the Arabs Enchir Gourçats, out of the massive rock which rose up on and is of the fourth century. We found either side to a great height. Here we the remains of a Christian church, a great found ourselves climbing down a deep slab of red stone with the cross and dove ravine, there struggling up a steep stratum and the vine beautifully carved upon it; of rocks, the surface of which, heated by and also a triumphal arch dedicated to the the fierce sun, had been planed as smooth Emperors Valens and Valentinius (A.D. and as slippery as ice. At last we reached 370). All these Roman towns date from the Plateau de Brileau (about the thirtythe second to the fourth century, and their fifth parallel), and, as the general had destruction is due to Genseric, king of chosen to halt here for breakfast, we were the Vandals, who landed in Africa in A.D. able at our leisure to gaze upon the stu429, and destroyed nearly all the Roman pendous prospect which lay below us. fortresses. While walking through the Rising up from the great desert we saw ruins I picked up pottery and old coins of a great range of sphinx-like mountains, all sizes which had been lying crumbling called the rocks of Zekron, rearing up in the hot sand all these centuries. This their crests from an immense depth of town must once have been a city of great heat and mist. They were absolutely importance, proud in her temples, colonnades, and triumphal arches. Now, however, she presents a pathetic picture of departed glory, the stunted grass and sand vying with one another as to which is to cover up the ruins.

Our halt for the night was to be at Sidi Abid, and as we pursued our journey thither we saw in the distance three horsemen galloping like the wind to meet us. They proved to be the sheik of the tribe at Sidi Abid and his two cavaliers. He was a splendid old fellow, dressed in red burnous, white turban, and red leggings, and his raven beak, fine dark eyes, and white beard gave him the appearance of a man born to command. When about one hundred yards from us he jumped off his white horse, which he handed to his cava liers, and advanced to salute the caïd and the general, touching with his hand their

bare of vegetation and were, as it were, scarified in a formation of symmetrical straight lines by the ever-burning sun. The weirdness of their shapes and forms was intensified by their pink and red color, which made them seem as if they were blushing for a sun whose unrelenting fury could transform them into such eerie shapes. Stretching away from the base of these monsters, as far as the eye could see, there rolled the great Sahara — a plain of irregular sand, vast and melancholy like an ocean.

As we had a dangerous and arduous march to make to reach our night quarters, we had to tear ourselves from this most wondrous scene. The sun was now shining vertically with great force over these fearsome and thirsty valleys, down which we had to crawl. One had to stick to one's horse like a leech, and felt that a single

and curious snakes, but owing to the rainy spring we were, perhaps luckily for us, ten days too soon for them, although we saw a good many specimens of the horned viper, and of a very large and dangerous lizard. The heat here was so intense that after breakfast we were ordered to our tents, and we lay gasping on our beds, in very scanty raiment, till the sun being lower in the horizon we again started off.

false step would dash horse and rider into | pieces, and showed us the peculiar horns eternity. The little horses, however, over the brute's eyes, which give it its which we rode are wonderfully sure-footed name. We expected to see many large and must be left to themselves. They have their own way of climbing, like cats, up precipitous rocks, and walking down steps carved out of slippery and calcined marble, down which a human being would crawl on his hands and knees. Both horses and men were thoroughly tired out when we reached Riran bou Dokhan, a curious hole in a sort of rocky dune, the village of a tribe who water their flocks at the Oued (river) bou Dokhan. Fishing in this swiftly flowing and limpid stream, one could scarcely realize that some fifty kilos farther south it would lose itself in the sand and cease to exist.

On arrival at Bir Djahli, between the thirty-fifth and thirty-sixth parallels, on the route to the great oases of Negrine and Ferkhane, we found a large portion of the tribes of Ouled Rechaich, under our caïd's Next day, starting betimes, we passed caïdate, encamped with their flocks and a place where a number of poor Kabyles herds, their tents being irregularly pitched in the last rising had escaped from the and surrounded on every side by camels, mountains and had dragged themselves sheep, goats, poultry, and dogs. I was down to die of thirst, little knowing that a lucky enough to secure some photographs few kilos farther south there were wells of of the interiors of these tents (truly water in abundance. At last we reached wretched abodes), the general kindly stopthe gates of the great Sahara. It con- ping the caravan and directing the spahis sists of great zones of flat, hard sand, upon to draw their sabres and keep off the great, which one could have a lawn-tennis tour- savage, yellow watch-dogs while I got to nament for the whole world zones of work. The male Bedouin is a dignifiedbroken, rocky sand, zones of soft, powdery | sand, and dunes of sand. Owing to the rains, which had been exceptionally heavy in the spring, we saw a sight seldom seen, and which made one realize what a country Africa would be if only the rains came down in spring and autumn regularly as they do with us. The desert was clothed in a robe de fête, and was literally ablaze as far as the eye could see with the myriad colors of countless wild flowers, which seemed to have caught the glory of the African sun. Every few hours of our march we met caravans in charge of strange-looking men, coming with their camels loaded with merchandise from the Soudan. The men invariably came up and saluted our caïd, and formed a truly picturesque enlivenment in our hot and arduous journey.

As we neared our halt for breakfast, Oglat Trudi, the sheik of the tribes who were watering their flocks there, came out with his cavaliers to salute us. He was walking with his hand on the bridle of the general's horse when he suddenly darted forward, striking with a heavy stick a long snake, which made off along the sand at great speed. This was our first sight of the vipère cornue, a very dangerous rep. tile, whose bite proves fatal if not promptly and most energetically treated. One of the spahis drew his sabre and cut it to

looking, if dirty, specimen of humanity, but he is lazy and useless, the drudgery of keeping the tent and looking after the beasts being, for the most part, done by his two or three wives. These women are married at twelve years of age, when they are dark and good-looking. They generally wear red or blue dresses, and huge earrings in their ears. At about twenty years of age, however, they become haggard and hideous.

The tribes, as here, always take advantage of spots where there is some alluvial deposit brought down by the rivers which descend from the Aures, and which die in the desert, where they form a sort of delta. This delta would be as fertile as that of the Nile if the rivers, which descend in torrents after storms, did not dry up so quickly, or if the heavens regularly sent down in spring and autumn the rains which our spahis called "la bénédiction d'Allah." In a good year, such as 1890, the crops give an extraordinary yield. The caïd told me that a single seed will yield five hundred ears of barley. Every drop of rain is then worth its weight in gold.

As soon as the general's tent is set up it is surrounded by some forty or fifty swarthy Arabs, who squat on the sand outside in front of the tent door. The "reclamation" now begins. At first, a

spokesman who is deputed to detail the various grievances complained of, goes to work with much dignity and action amid the dead silence of the rest of his breth ren, who sit like mutes. This, however, cannot last long. In threes and fours they soon begin to speak all together, till the noise becomes so deafening that the general quells them with difficulty, and proceeds either to redress the grievances or to give judgment in the case appealed to him. This tent scene amidst the Bedouin encampment seemed to me like a chapter in the Old Testament history, and I could easily imagine that I had been suddenly carried by Eastern magic into an encampment at the desert wells of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob.

From All The Year Round.

THE CASTLE OF MIRAMAR.

A RANGE of dreary limestone hills forms the northern boundary of the Adriatic, beyond the busy port of Trieste - the starting-point of the boat which conveys visitors to Miramar. The castle rises in solitary grandeur, between sea and sky, on the outlying rocks of a desolate creek in the iron-bound coast; and the mournful character of the surrounding scenery deepens the impression of intense loneliness conveyed by the solemn pile. Crenellated battlements above long rows of arched and mullioned windows surmount a broad stone rampart which fortifies the grey crags laved by the blue waters of the Adriatic. A soft breeze rustles the thick mantle of ivy and Virginia creeper on the bastions, and a shower of scarlet leaves flutters down to the sea. The Austrian flag droops at half-mast from a massive tower, for Miramar was once the home of the ill-fated Maximilian, emperor of Mexico, and the deserted castle is left unchanged, as a perpetual memorial of the murdered sovereign. The silence and solitude are unbroken, and the associations of a more distant past sink into comparative insig nificance, blotted out by the dark shadow of that terrible tragedy which touches us with the sense of recent loss.

As there were still some three hours before sunset and much barley nearly ripe for cutting, not to mention acres of wild flowers, I started with the caïd's brother, a magnificent fellow and a well-reputed sportsman, to shoot quail. The scouts, who had been sent out early in the morning, returned, reporting that owing to the softness of the desert sand the gazelle we had hoped to find were up in the mountains. My prince's modus operandi was somewhat peculiar. In his long burnous he did not seem to care to do more walking than he could help, and he invariably rode his charger to and from the patches From the stone quay which forms the of covert. Dismounting, and handing his water-gate of the castle, marble steps lead horse to his horsemen, he proceeded to to the great terrace above the ramparts. work away with two mongrel yellow French The sculptured balustrades are wreathed pointers. Accustomed to the "creepy "with purple clematis, and a flame of gera ways of quail, these chiens de la chasse had niums fills the marble vases with vivid lost whatever steadiness they may once color. have possessed. On they continually rushed with their noses in the long barley, and, finally, the whole affair became a regular "sauve qui peut." The prince pursuing the dogs, with his gun held before him "on the ready," and adjuring Perdrix (one of his curs) to behave "doucement," and using other expletives which, from my ignorance of Arabic, I failed to understand, but which, I fear, were anything but "good words." When the bird was at last shoved up by the dogs the prince invariably blazed away (and on the whole with great success) at ten yards, though I found I often, at twenty-five yards, got my one barrel in after he had had his two shots at close range. After securing a capital bag and leaving many dead or wounded birds unfound in the long barley a prey to the snakes, we "ceased firing," but it will be long before I forget my daily "bursts" (I can call them nothing else) with this Arabian skekarry.

Although Miramar rises on its rocky parapet sheer and straight from the water's edge, the gardens stretch backward in endless variety of leafy avenue and shady bower, green pleasaunce and terraced hill, until they merge into black pine woods beneath the barren mountains which close the prospect and add to the seclusion of the lonely scene. Aisles of white and crimson roses in full autumnal bloom form vistas of fragrant shade, and the trellised arches reveal a silvery glimpse of falling fountains. The aromatic scent of fir-trees mingles with the breath of a thousand flowers, while the lapsing water and the cooing of doves blend those associations of woodland and sea which add their poetical charms to the haunted spot.

The carved stone porch of the grand entrance to this regal'dwelling is veiled by a luxuriant growth of bronze and crimson creepers, flinging wreaths and tendrils over turret and pinnacle, and brightening

the gloom of the dark ivy which frames oriel window and sculptured balcony. Oaken doors with emblazoned shields open into a noble hall panelled with blackest oak, and lighted by lancets painted with heraldic bearings of the Austrian archdukes. Armor, weapons, antlers, and tattered banners line the walls and decorate the grand staircase which leads to a corridor filled with splendid family portraits of the royal house of Habsburg. The haughty face of Maria Theresa and the mournful beauty of Marie Antoinette, her ill-fated daughter, are conspicuous amidst the long line of Austrian princesses; and the joyous face of Carl von Löthringen, flushed with victory as he waves the banner of conquering Lorraine, occupies the foremost place in the rank of royal archdukes renowned for military prowess and knightly deeds.

Although no reigning family in Europe numbers more tragedies in its annals than this famous house of Habsburg, the interest of the pictures culminates in the portraits of Maximilian and his stricken consort; and the tragic memories of Austrian sovereignty reach their climax in the mournful records of these two royal lives, the violent death of the one overthrowing the tottering reason of the other, so long undermined by agonies of suspense and dread. The soldierly figure and dignified bearing of the emperor are displayed to advantage in his crimson robes of state. The broad forehead denotes intellectual power, and the firm mouth, shaded, but not concealed, by the long, fair moustache, expresses the unflinching courage of a gallant race. In the melancholy blue eyes imaginative minds have often recognized the haunted expression sometimes observed in the faces of those doomed to an untimely end, as though the shadow of coming death fell across life even in its prime and flower. Whether this be fact or fancy, no doubt can be entertained as to the cloud of care and sadness which rests on Maximilian's face.

The fair features of Charlotte of Mexico reflect something of this wistful anxiety, and the earnest gaze of the brilliant dark eyes almost contradicts the smile which plays round the sensitive mouth. A more pitiable spectacle than that of the poor distraught empress was never witnessed by the European courts from which she implored help, when her mind at length gave way beneath the terrible strain of anguish and despair.

An oppressive weight of mournful memories broods over desolate Miramar, re

plete with all that contributes to mental culture and physical enjoyment; but only reminding us the more vividly of that illstarred life which no human means could solace or save. In the oak-panelled library, the favorite books of the unfortunate emperor remain just as he left them; his music-score stands on the organ, and traces of daily occupations are seen in an unfinished sketch, a half-written letter on an open desk, and a collection of works on navigation his favorite study - with notes pencilled on the margins in his own handwriting. The book shelves, with their copies of English poems, plays, and novels, interspersed with classical authors, and modern works in French and Italian, testify to the wide and liberal culture attained by Maximilian in days of leisure and liberty. These mementoes of his sacrificed life invest the story of the hapless monarch with a tangible reality. In the oriel window of a book-lined recess his favorite armchair stands by the open casement, where he loved to sit within sight and sound of the waves which still dash on the rocks a hundred feet below this ideal "castle by the sea.”

We are almost constrained to believe that the little German poem of that name, familiarized to us by Longfellow's translation, was suggested by a visit to Miramar, so exactly does it correspond with the poet's description of the castle which mirrors itself in the waves and soars upward into the crimson light of sunset.

We pass through banqueting-hall and throne-room, gorgeous with emblazoned banners and fading tapestry, the Austrian eagle surmounting the throne and carved in high relief upon the oaken ceiling. Every saloon is enriched with treasures of art in marble, mosaic, and porcelain. Hirschvögel stoves, adorned with Scriptural scenes in blue and white faïence, stand in arched alcoves; and cabinets of exquisite Kronenthal china fill gilded recesses between the long windows which overlook the wide blue sea.

The private apartments of the Empress Charlotte are also left untouched since her last sojourn at Miramar. A group of miniatures, framed in pearls, rests on an ebony work-table; a guitar, tied with a faded blue ribbon lies in an open velvet case; and a well-worn book of devotions remains on the back of a prie-dieu chair, beneath an ivory crucifix in a little oratory. The white-and-gold walls, painted with wreaths of flowers, are draped with pale blue satin; and the delicate coloring of these beautiful chambers contrasts sharply

with the sombre grandeur which characterizes the greater part of the feudal castle. An arcaded cloister leads to the private chapel of the royal household. Shafts of ruby light from lancet windows pierce the dusky shadows of the dim interior, and emphasize, rather than illuminate, the solemn gloom. The tarnished silver of tabernacle and candlesticks gleams through the mysterious twilight, and a crimson stain falls across the marble altar, before which Maximilian so often knelt in prayer. How great was the change from the peaceful life of Miramar to the stormy reign in turbulent Mexico, whence the hearts of the imperial exiles must have turned with hopeless yearning towards their distant home, longing amid the cares of State for the happiness lost forever amid the strife and bloodshed of the new Western empire!

From the days of the Spanish conquest of Mexico under Cortez, the history of the country has been a ceaseless record of anarchy and revolution. The union of Spaniard, Indian, and Negro from whence the modern Mexican traces his descent contains opposing elements which have ever retarded the advance of anything beyond a nominal civilization. Indian tribes and Creole settlers increased the difficulties of government. Successive revolts reduced Mexico to a condition of social ruin; and the affairs of the country became hopelessly involved.

his own resources, and contending factions rendered his position absolutely untenable. The clouds which had so long been gathering broke at length in darkest storm, and in May, 1867, the climax came, when the brave descendant of a hundred kings was captured and shot by his merciless subjects.

As our little boat bears us away from the grand old castle, lancet and oriel gleam like jewels in the golden light of a radiant afterglow, the solemn towers throw dark shadows over the lustrous blue of the sleeping sea, and the plash of oars alone breaks the silence which lingers perpetually round lonely Miramar. No memorial chapel or stately tomb could so adequately enshrine the unfading memory of the murdered emperor as this home which he loved so well, wherein every room seems haunted by his presence or pervaded by his taste and culture.

The stern page of contemporary history, which hitherto appeared confused and dim, is henceforth translated into a vivid reality, so deeply is every detail engraved on the mind by a visit to Miramar. Historical characters, when of royal lineage, often appear to us as a mere gallery of portraits, fenced off by a hedge of State ceremonial from that close intercourse which alone can reveal the common humanity which they share. As we wander through the halls of Maximilian's noble castle, with its wealth of pathetic memoThe president Juarez succeeded in ries, and trace the details of his daily life, divorcing Church and State, and the gov- the personality of the luckless monarch ernment annexed all ecclesiastical prop-impresses itself upon the mind in clear erty. Foreign powers took advantage of and decided outlines. We learn to appre the situation to aid the Church party, and ciate the dauntless courage which obeyed sent forces to Mexico in order to secure the call to a life and duty which must have reparation for losses sustained by their been especially distasteful to one of his own subjects who had settled in the gentle, scholarly temperament. Conserepublic. English and Spanish claims quences could neither be foreseen nor conwere adjusted by negotiation, and their sidered. It is an inspiriting thought, that forces withdrawn. The French troops even in the nineteenth century the days of alone remained, and, after several defeats, chivalry have not quite passed away, and occupied the city of Mexico in 1863. A we can point with pride to the example of regency was formed, and it was decided to Maximilian of Mexico, who so nobly fulestablish hereditary government under a filled the motto of ancient days: "Fais ce Roman Catholic emperor. The Arch-que dois, advienne que pourra." duke Maximilian of Austria accepted the proffered crown, but the peace which followed his arrival in Mexico was of short duration. The troops under Juarez, the deposed president, broke out into open revolt, and their victories were followed by the withdrawal of the French army. Maximilian was thus thrown entirely on

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Our little boat drifts through the rocky channel of the lonely creek, where Miramar stands on its solitary outpost at the water's edge, and the rising moon silvers the sea and throws a mournful radiance over turret and pinnacle, as we turn for a last look at the sacred monument of a lost cause and a sacrificed life.

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