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baste," says he, and the ill-fated Sebaste | lying far below, appear like five ting finds herself confronted without escape specks of white, and the travellers can by a very charming lady in an Oriental look away over the broad green plains silk mantle, who looks at her expectantly. eastward to the towering heights of Anti
“ 'EXAMPLOTI Néyeis ? ” falters Sebaste, sure Lebanon (which, as our friends rise higher that she is talking neither modern Greek and higher, rear themselves upward to an nor ancient.
astonishing altitude), and southward to “Máhlora," exclaims the lady, in a the snow-fields of Hermoc shining in the sprightly manner; whereupon Sebaste, morning sunlight. Soon the air grows greatly encouraged, plunges into an elab- keener, and at length they come to the orate sentence of her best Attic, at the snow, of which they have to cross several end of which it appears that the Greek broad patches, much to the astonishment lady has understood never a word, so that of their steeds, who nibble at it to begin the humiliated Atticist is fain to beat a with, but finding it unsatisfactory, plod retreat to her tent, and stay there.
along in a resigned and disconsolate fashThe travellers are very curious, it being ion; whereas the Arabs are wild with the Cæsar's birthday, to find out the age of delight of a snowball match, passing up that anomalous compound of boyish en handfuls of snow to the riders, that they, terprise and mature experience; so the too, may play with the marvellous stuff. father casually remarks during supper, “ I Then they suddenly arrive at the topsuppose, Cæsar, you are about fifty to most ridge of the pass of the Jebel-el-Arz, * day?” Whereupon Cæsar laughs, and seventy-seven hundred feet above the seasays he is twenty, sir; and to no more level ;' and there before them, with the than twenty can he be brought to confess. grand mountain-gorge of the Kadisha The English are amused to discover the leading down towards it, lies the Medijuvenility of their travelled dragoman, terranean, stretching away westward in who has been everywhere, and knows boundless plains of soft, bright blue, or everything, and whom they treat with so rather, as it seems,t rising up in a mighty much deference. In the evening there is towering cliff; while far out to sea, halfa grand illumination of the camp, aod way up the face of that radiant wall of fireworks withal (of Damascus production), blue, float whole trains and processions of not unworthy of the festal occasion. fleecy white clouds shining in the dazzling
The next day our friends ride across the sunlight. buka'a valley, the beautiful plain which They descend on the other side by a separates Anti-Lebanon from the Lebanon path steeper if possible than that which chain. Not far from Baalbek they make they mounted, and in due time they behold a little detour to inspect a monumental on the vast sweep of the mountain-side a column standing alone in the plain. The single patch of green · the cedars at inscription thereupon being no longer last! While still at a distance you can legible, its date and significance seem to hear the notes of the birds which make have been forgotten.
their nests there, and “sing among the At last they leave the plain and ascend branches ;” and when you enter the the rocky slopes at the foot of Lebanon as broad-spreading shade (though not more far as the village of Ainêta, where they than about four hundred cedars remain), camp. From the tent doors they have one you find yourself in a genuine fragment of the loveliest views on which their eyes of ancient forest, the grand old trees as have hitherto feasted themselves. Above stately now, the cone-covered ground bethem rise the gigantic slopes of Lebanon, neath them as deeply shaded, and the culminating in sheets of dazzling snow, sweet air around as redolent of the fra. while far away across the plain the range grant cedar wood as when all the mounof Anti-Lebanon draws up to the snowy tain-side was covered by their kith and peaks of Hermon, emerging from a flood kin. of soft blue shadow.
In the midst of the cedars there is a The following day is devoted to an ex- little Maronite church, used for service pedition to the cedars of Lebanon — some only once a year (on the Feast of the Trans. old trees still preserved as a specimen of the ancient glories of the cedar forest in . That is, “The Cedar Mountain." the days of David and Solomon. To.day
† The horizon being apparently on a level with the
eye, the mind (unable to grasp the idea of so vast an the Syrian steeds excel themselves in the expanse) refuses to believe that it is in reality a flat mountaineering line, bravely mounting up all who have looked over the sea from a great height,
surface. This curious delusion is no doubt familiar to the steep, zigzag path, climbing over op- but is none the less impressive when experienced for posing rocks, and so forth, till the tents,
the first time.
figuration), and left in a dreadful state of their heart's content. Not far from the neglect. Not far from this our friends tents a party of men in their dignified take luncheon, and then they wander about Eastern robes are solemnly going through among the old superannuated giants of the a kind of dance in a ring, which appears forest - "the cedars of Lebanon which very comic to Western eyes. Thou hast planted.".
The following day is spent in travelling After a time the mountain mists gath- along that same plain at the foot of those ering on the heights overhead give warn- same mountains. Baalbek, opposite which ing that they must start on their return they seemed to stay (so broad is the exSo they once more mount their steeds, panse of plain) during the greater part of journey if they desire not to be beclouded. yesterday's marci, is now finally left be. and, again ascending the pass, pick their hind, and they are journeying onward steep way down the other side. In cross- towards the snowy peaks of Hermon, ing one of the sowdrifts near the summit, which rise up far to the southward, and Abu Hassan, who is on foot, creates great recede and recede as though they would amusement by suddenly toppling over on lure them on forever. A melancholy event the incline of hardened snow, making an takes place to-day, for they enter upon extraordinary picture as, in his baggy what is undeniably neither more nor less Eastero costume, he rolls over and over than a good, smooth, hard carriage-road. down the steep descent. He quite appre. “Good-bye to the mountains and the ciates the joke himself, and rather enjoys valleys !” said Cæsar, and all the travelit than otherwise,
lers join in a chorus of lamentation, heapThe pext day they once more set forth ing all the opprobrious epithets they can on their travels, and for some distance think of on carriage-roads in general and retrace the way by which they came from this one in particular together with teleBaalbek the day before yesterday, de graph wires, stone houses, and all other scendiog the rocky slopes till they reach marks of civilization whatsoever. Alas ! the broad plain of the Buka'a, across which the end of their pilgrimage is fast apmay be seen the dark green patch of veg- proaching now. etation where stand the ruins of Baalbek, embowered in clustering trees. They then diverge from the Baalbek track, turning
CONCLUSION. to the right and skirting the foot of the Lebanon. During the morning they are much delighted by a lovely mirage to the We left our travellers in the Buka'a southward, quite as beautiful as any they valley, not far from the town of Zahleh. saw in the desert. A broad lake, dotted Their sad thoughts about the approaching with numbers of rocky islets, filled up the end of their journey are a little distracted end of the broad valley, its clear waters by the glories of the lovely scenery through shining in the sunlight; but not long have which they are passing. At the end of the they admired it when it slowly dries up day they leave the plain, and enter a deep before their eyes, and finally vanishes. mountain-glen, which, when they have About midday a further diversion is ascended for some distance, they finally caused by the sight of a large number of arrive at Zahleh, the largest (and assuredly storks wading about in the standing corn, the most beautiful) village in the Lebanon. which covers the rich soil of the plain, and The town was captured in 1860 by the is already more or less in ear.
Druses, and there was a terrible massacre Shortly before arriving at the camping- of the Christians. Its population now is ground, they pass, near one of the innu- ten thousand, almost all of whom are merable villages with uopronounceable Christians. The houses are clustered in names, the Tomb of the Prophet Joseph, terraces up the side of the glen; and a where, say the Moslems, the patriarch | very charming picture they make, rising Joseph lies buried - a story quite as un- steeply on each side of the stream which founded as all other Mohammedan tradi- flows below, bordered by tall trees, while tions of the kind.
the rocky sides of the glen tower above in The tents are pitched at Neby Reshedi, protecting grandeur. a Moslem village, near which is another The tents are pitched on a high kooll of village entirely Christian. Ramadan being grassy downland overlooking the town, a just over, to-day is a Mohammedan fes- situation very like that which they occu. tival, wherefore all the folk of Neby Re- pied at Shechem; and the view from the shedi are out holiday-making, and come tiful. The people crowd round the visit. crowding round the strangers, staring to tent doors is wonderfully grand and beau
FROM ZAHLEH TO BEYROUT.
ors, all in bright holiday attire – the farther on. What that wicked ruin has womankind wearing light-colored cotton got into its head I know not; but certain dresses, and the pretty white muslin veils it is that it plays at hide-and-seek round which, when wound about the head and the rocky hillsides, gets farther away in. thrown over the shoulder, are so charm- stead of nearer, and finally vanishes altoingly becoming. Some of the children can gether, so that the riders begin to grow talk'a little English.
bewildered, and also to feel some twinges “Where did you learn English ?” asks of compunction at having brought their Sebaste of a small boy.
horses over such rocky ground on what “ Io the school," * says he.
seems likely to prove but a wild-goose Why are you not in school now?" chase after all. Just at this moment, tear“It is a holy-day. The Lord went to ing over the break-neck rocks, up gallops heaven."
the Cæsar, and with eyes flashing wrath, " That means," says Sophia, “ that this though with his usual gentle politeness, is the Feast of Ascension in the Greek asks whither they are going, tells them Church - the octave of our own."
that the ruin is two hours distant (a stateThe next morning our friends regain ment not to be taken too literally), and placthe valley, and for several hours journey ing himself at their head, leads them back on as aforetime at the foot of the Lebanon to the road like so many sheep. They chain, which towers above them on their find it rather difficult to answer all the right: while on their left stretches the sympathetic inquiries of the others as to broad, smooth, green plain, bounded by the interior wonders of that unconscionthe purple heights of Anti-Lebanon, which able ruin. trend away towards the south till they rise Farther on Cæsar points out a building up before them in the shining peaks of used for storing the Lebanon snow, which, Hermon. It is a view not soon to be for- says he, is bought up from year to year gotten, and the colors thereof are marvel- for £200 or £300 and taken to Beyrout, lous, first the soft, rich green of the where it is sold and used for cooling plain, then the purple mountain-slopes, sherbet, etc. They also see at some distransfigured by a dazzling haze of all ten- tance a group of buildings devoted to the der hues, and above all, the cloudless blue manufacture of silk. The slopes of Lebaof the Syrian sky.
non are to a great extent covered with Toward midday they begin to mount young mulberry-trees hereabout, growa the rocky slopes of Lebanon to their for the support of silkworms. right; the plain sinks rapidly beneath Luncheon is eaten high up in the moun. them, the distant Hermon alone remaintains, near the Khan Sofar, and the tents ing almost unchanged; and so they rise are pitched lower down in a vineyard higher and higher till they gain the sum. (some of the tent.cords being fastened to mit of the Lebanon Pass, five thousand the vine-stems), whence there is a wonderand sixty feet above the sea-level, whence ful view of Beyrout lying far below, and they obtain wonderful glimpses of the beyond, the high wall of the brightly broad, bright, blue sea, and, alas! of gleaming sea. unwelcome, unwished - for, uncalled - for, A thick cloud hides the western suo, wholly superfluous Beyrout at last. but just leaves the horizon clear, so that,
Shortly after leaving the plain the trav. as the invisible sun sinks lower and lower, ellers are called upon to behold and ad- our friends can see his bright reflection mire the Tomb of Noah, wherein, say the lying across the steep waters toward them, Moslems, Noah lies buried. The tomb is like a pillar of dazzling light. Just as the about one hundred and twenty feet long, pale ball of the rayless sun appears in by two or at most three feet broad. Poor the fringe of the cloud, the inexorable Noah seems to have been very thin for his Abu Said suddenly ejaculates, in a sepul. height!
chral voice, “ Dinner ready!” and though Not long after this some of the riders they allow the " soop of the evening ” to begin to look wistfully at a certain ruin grow nearly cold, they behold not the aclying at some distance to the left of the tual sun-setting. This is the last supper road. Cæsar happens to be behind – so, in camp, and a somewhat melancholy retelling the others whither they are going, past, though the father tries to make it they make bold to leave the road and pick more cheerful by beautifully decorating their way along the rocky paths, meaning, the table with feros gathered near the after this little detour, to rejoin the rest tents, and some lovely garden roses which
suddenly make their appearance, having • The British-Syrian Mission has a school at Zahleh. been brought in by some of the Arabs,
whence I know not --- elfland, perhaps. | best to look indifferently, aod not at all When the travellers again emerge into the flattered. open air the night has come, the soft sun- It takes about four hours to ride from set glow lingers faiotly along the horizon the camping.ground to the journey's end over the sea, the stars hang sparkling in - a pretty steep, descent nearly all the the now perfectly clear sky; only one way, during which our friends gaze with fleecy cloud steals along in feathery folds delight at many wonderful views of those jusi below the brow of the height whereon mighty western slopes of Lebanon, where stands their house and home their last, the vast sweep of the rocky mountain-sides last camp !
is variegated with rich, harmonious tints “ Tomorrow, sir,” says Cæsar, - as of lichens gold and brown on ancient will put the two flags from the tops of the ruios — contrasting strangely with the tents on to the palanquins."
vivid green of the young mulberry planta“ No, no, Cæsar - that's childish. Peo- tions; while sprinkled all around are jople would take us for Americans !” numerable tiny villages, perched aloft on
" Indeed, sir," protests the Cæsar, much rugged heights, or nestled here and there hurt in his feelings, " that is always done in rocky nooks and corners. when parties arrive in Beyrout, and not “Can one not see,” exclaims Philippa, only by the Americans !"
" by the flourishing and populous !ook of So the point is conceded, and next all those villages, that the Lebanon is morning our friends start at about seven under a Christian governor? He is al. o'clock with flying colors, one palanquin most independent, you know, for though adorned with the red ensign, the other Turkey appoints him to begin with, his with the union.jack, and both of them fur: authority is guaranteed by the Christian ther decorated with beautiful bunches of powers of Europe, and he cannot be disroses. The Cæsar has earned his trium- missed without their consent.” phal procession, for it is no small feat to “Ah,” sighs Sebaste admiringly, “what have completed so successfully such a long a splendid thing it is to have one's guide. journey (the longest he has ever made in book all by heart !” tents), — this being, furthermore, the first As they ride through the outskirts of expedition through the country which he Beyrout, Cæsar suddenly catches sight of has organized independently, and on his a figure some distance ahead emerging own account. So he rides into Beyrout in from a house on the road. Off goes Cætriumph, as before stated, “ Leading us sar at full gallop, and when the other riders like captives at his chariot-wheels!” ex. come up with him, be is bending down to claims 'Sebaste; but Philippa says, “We kiss Sheikh Nasr! The sheikh has dis. are the victorious troops."
carded his desert-dress, and is now attired Before starting this morning it is a pa- as befits his high position. Over a beauthetic sight to watch Abdul (who, having tiful silk robe of rich orange and gold he several times travelled to Mecca, is an wears a long mantle of fine white alpaca, important personage, and ought to have while a silk kefiyeh of white and purple been described long ago) tenderly decorat- hangs gracefully over his shoulders, bound ing, with a graceful nosegay of crimson round his head with the Bedouin coil of roses, the huge head of El Adham, Phil. camel-hair, which, with his huge boots of ippa's great black steed. El Adham scarlet leather, is alone retained of his (whose name signifieth “ the Black One ") desert costume. He greets the travellers belongs to Abdul, and is his chief (if not most kindly, his fine face beaming with his only) piece of property; and his mas. welcome, though, as usual, he speaks not. ter's affectionate pride in him is un- Then, mounting his borse, be rides with bounded, so that when the other Syrians them through the town, a distinguished wish to tease poor Abdul they are accus. addition to the cavalcade. Finally, our tomed to announce that El Adham is lost, friends arrive at the Oriental Hotel, and stolen, or strayed. Unfortunately, that there establish themselves. strong-minded steed does not seem to rel. In the evening they have to perform the turn his master's affection; and indeed, melancholy duty of saying good-bye to all soon after the start from Jerusalem, he one their good Syrian folk, whom the father day jumped clean over poor Abdul, who has asked Cæsar to bring to the hotel for was meekly offering some water, and hurt that purpose. Standing a little above him considerably. On the present occa- them on the stone stairs, the father makes sion it is touching to see the devoted them a speech of hearty thanks for all Abdul tenderly arranging the roses, while their attention and good behavior during El Adham, with his hard old face, does his | the journey. This is translated bit by bit into Arabic by Cæsar, and received with policeman; the second class embraces the looks of gratitude and affection.
rest of the population of Germany - some Then forth stands Abu Hassan, and, as fifty-three millions. spokesman on the other side, makes an Englishmen travel fast, and travel elaborate Arabic speech, with many ges- mostly for pleasure ; so that they hardly tures of respect and politeness. His notice what becomes rather important if thanks and compliments are in their turn one stays long in any part of the country, duly traoslated by Cæsar, and then the the extent to which the administration father distributes the long.expected bak- regulates the private life of the citizen. sheesh, while the ladies shake hands all To take a simple instance, every one has round and say farewell in their best observed the difficulty of getting the parArabic. And so they go their ways. ticular carriage and seat in a railway train
That night oone of the travellers can that one may happen to want. Most of us sleep, so oppressive do they find it to have are content to set this down as one of a roof over their heads, and to be hemmed the little peculiarities of German officials in by solid walls after their seven weeks which must be humored or smoothed over. of camping in the open.
But at the bottom of this curious practice The days which follow seem unaccount- (as at the bottom of everything German) ably fat, though enlivened by one long lies a theory. That theory is the direct gallop to the Dog River (Nahr el Kelb), opposite of what an Englishman would where they contemplate the ancient in expect, and includes three propositions. scriptions left on the rocks by Assyrians, (1) It is the guard's duty to open the door Egyptians, and Romans, and are espe- of the carriage. (2) He must only open it cially impressed by the dignified mien of to a passenger travelling to one of the stacertain Assyrian potentates with long, tions at which the carriage will stop. (3) curly beards, carved in bas-relief on the Such a passenger must be provided with natural rock, and now in various stages of the proper ticket. These involve three cor. defacement.
responding duties on the passenger's part. At last the day of departure arrives, and (1) He must purchase the proper ticket. our friends embark on the Austrian (2) He must wait on the platform till the Lloyd's steamer, on the deck of which we guard assigns him a seat. (3) He must must finally take leave of them. The take that seat and stay there till he is let screw begins its revolutions, and Beyrout out. Thus railway travelling is not such slowly recedes, looking very pretty in the a simple matter as an Englishman is acrich glow of the nearly setting sun.
It is customed to think it. These rules are less late in the season, and there are but few rigidly insisted on if you are travelling by passengers. The sea is smooth and the first-class ; for that implies wealth, and sky cloudless, so that there is good hope you may be a person with whom it is as of a prosperous voyage. The sun is really well, even for that great person, the guard, sinking now in a glory of rosy light. Al. to be on good terms. If you are travelling ready the dark blue sea and the white by any other class and you show in the houses of the distant town lie in the slightest particular a disposition to flout shadow, which is creeping up the steep the regulations you will feel the heavy slopes of the mountains. Only their sum- hand of the administration at once. mits, rising clear above a long line of soft, The hand of the administration is heavy fleecy cloud, glow red and beautiful against in Germany because it is guided by a the cloudless Eastern sky. Vale ! strong head. This is best understood by AUGUSTA KLEIN. a particular instance. The kingdom of
Saxony, to take an example, is divided into four Kreishauptmannschaften, and the head of each of these is appointed by the
king. He corresponds directly with the From Macmillan's Magazine.
minister of the interior (who is also apAN OVER-ADMINISTERED NATION.
pointed by the king), and is assisted by an THE population of Germany consists of elected council (Kreisausschuss), whose two classes : the people who makes rules advice he is not obliged to take. He and regulations and the people who have stands in a similar position to a lord-lieuto obey them. The first class comprises tenant with real administrative authority. a number of officials respectfully, if vague. Under him are various Amtshauptmannly, alluded to as Die Verwaltung (the ad-schaften, with a hierarchy of small officials ministration), and includes a great many under them, and as each Amtshauptmann persons from the sovereign down to the l hopes to be a Kreishauptmann some day,