seen it: the hind hair is negligently fastened up by a pearl comb; a few ringlets descend from the crown of the head to the throat, but are not suffered to fall into the neck. Head-dress, artificial flowers tastefully intermixed with the hair. Pearl necklace and earrings. White kid gloves, and white silk shoes. SUMMER FASHIONS. We have endeavoured to procure the most correct information respecting the summer fashions, and have seen various novelties which were to appear as soon as the mourning was at an end: we shall lay the result of our researches before our fair readers; at the same time we must observe, that, owing to the fondness which many leaders of the modes display for the French fashions, we may expect that, in the course of May, many changes will take place. For promenade dress, we have as yet seen nothing prepared but pelisses and spencers: they are of silk, which is in general of the most substantial texture, and are lined with white sarsnet. There is as little variety in trimmings; they are principally composed of an intermixture of satin and gauze, or else satin and the same silk as the pelisse. Spencers are made in general with a small jacket, which comes no further than the bust, and is rounded off at the sides they are made to sit very full behind, and being short, have a jaunty air. The collars are high, and in general plain; but the epaulettes are very full they are also made of a mixture of silk and satin. Leghorn and silk bonnets seem likely to be equally in estimation for the promenade: we have seen several of the latter made to correspond with the pelisse or spencer with which they were to be worn, and a few also in white; but those latter seem likely to be principally confined to carriage costume. Both promenade and carriage bonnets are ornamented with artificial flowers: we have seen some very profusely trimmed at the edge of the brim or rather we in the French style; should say they are trimmed, under the edge of the brim, with gauze or blond intermixed with white satin coques, or small wreaths of flowers. There does not appear any likelihood at present that bonnets will decrease in size. Among the novelties in preparation for carriage dress, one of the most elegant is a pelisse composed of French white gros de Naples: there is nothing remarkable in the form of the pelisse; but the epaulettes and trimming are very novel and tasteful: the latter is composed of a mixture of pink satin and white transparent gauze; the latter is laid on full in a scroll pattern, and intersected with very narrow rouleaus of satin: the trimming is finished at each side with a narrow edging of pink satin. The epaulette is extremely full; it forms a large puff in front of the arm; this puff is filled with an intermixture of folds of gauze and satin placed bias. We should observe, that the trimming goes all round, and the collar and cuffs correspond with it. Cambric and jaconet muslin are the only materials which we have seen prepared for morning dress. Gowns are made plain in the back, long in the waist, and in general to fasten behind; they are mostly laced, but we have seen a few buttoned. Sleeves are rather tight, but the epaulettes are in general. very full. As yet we have not seen any morning dresses trimmed very high, nor is there any great variety in the trimming of those few already made up; worked flounces laid on plain or in waves, and headed with a fulness of muslin, or else rich work let-in in waves, with flounces between, are the only trimmings that we have as yet seen in fashionable houses, Very few dinner dresses have as yet been made in muslin, but we have seen a good many in silk, and of a texture. which we consider infinitely too substantial for the season; in fact, our levantines, gros de Naples, reps, and queen's silk, are almost as stout as the brocades, tissues, and damasks of our it has really an uncommonly striking and elegant effect. White silk, satin, and lace, seem likely to be most in favour in full dress; a mixture of coloured silk in trimmings is a novelty which appears likely to become fashionable. Among the trimmings which we have noticed, one of the most novel and pretty is a chain composed of coloured ribbon, laid on in a zig-zag pattern, and intermixed with white blond lace; a deep flounce of blond terminates this trimming. grandmammas. Some additions have antine: this trimming is very broad,and been made to our stock of silks: one of these is the material called zephyreene, and another is the soie de Londres, an extremely beautiful silk; it resembles levantine in substance, and satin in glossiness of texture. Those dinner gowns that we have seen, are cut low; and both morning and dinner dress is now made in a style much more advantageous to the shape, than it was a few months ago: the backs of gowns are narrower, and much more sloped than they were; and the sleeve is set in so as to give a breadth to the Full-dress gowns are all cut low, but chest, without falling too much off the shoulder. White and coloured gauze, satin, and blond,are the materials at present used for trimmings. We have just seen one of the most novel in form that has been introduced for some time: the dress is a pale lilac levantine; the trimming is of white transparent gauze; it is laid on in a wave which is slight puckered, and each edge of the wave is finished with a very narrow lilac gauze ruche; between each wave is placed a bunch of leaves composed of white gauze, and edged with lilac lev by no means indelicately so round the bust. The sleeves are very short and full. Where the dress is of silk, the sleeve is very frequently composed wholly of lace. There is very little novelty in millinery; artificial flowers seem likely to be more worn for the head than any thing else. It is not easy yet to decide what colours will be most fashionable; but among the dresses that we have seen azure, levantine, pink, and lilac, were most prevalent. AB From the Literary Gazette. SOUTHEY'S LIFE OF JOHN WESLEY. BOUT a fortnight subsequent to this new birth, and in the full career of fanatical enthusiasm, Wesley, together with Ingham and six others, left England for the Moravian Establishment at Herrnhut in Germany, of the origin and progress of which sect the author takes a rapid view. Count Zinzendorf and the Herrnhutters were at that era in a state of the grossest abomination, which was afterwards reformed, for their meaning was as unquestionably good as their means were evil. Wesley returned to London af ter a short absence, and Whitfield also came back from America. At this time began the practice of fitting condemned criminals for execution, which has since been carried to so deplorable a length that murderers go out of the world in the persuasion of martyrs, and the vilest wretches (through a momentary delusion miscalled faith) die the death of saints in glory. But this was at the height of the Wesleyan excitement and enthusiasm, and before Methodism had assumed, with a consistent form, a sober character. On the 17th of February, 1739, Whitfield appeared in his "first field pulpit" at Rose Green near Bristol, and preached for the colliers of Kingswood. The chancellor of the diocese interfered, and a rupture ensued, which finally led to the separation of the new sect from the Church of England. The dreadful paroxysms which in the earlier stages of Methodism, manifested that the disciples had been born again in grace, are now only to be found in America; and the lovefeasts have, we trust, no likeness in these wiser times. On the 12th of May, 1739, the foundation-stone of the first Methodist preaching-house was laid, in a piece of ground obtained for that purpose, near St. James's Church-yard, Bristol. Whitfield was now preaching in London, and "a layman, whose name was Shaw, insisted that a priesthood was an unnecessary and unscriptural institution, and that he himself had as good a right to preach, baptize, and administer the sacraments, as any other man. Such a teacher found ready believers; the propriety of laypreaching was contended for at the society in Fetter-Lane, and Charles Wesley strenuously opposed what he called these pestilent errors. In spite of his opposition, a certain Mr. Bowers set the first example. Two or three more ardent innovators declared that they would no longer be members of the church of England." Howel Harris, the first great promoter of Methodism in Wales, started at this period; and Whitfield's first celebrated preachings in Moorfields, and Kennington Common, took place. A picture of the effect of these sermons may be copied from Wesley's statement of what happened to him at Wapping. "While,' he says," I was earnestly inviting all men to enter into the Holiest by this new and living way, many of those who heard began to call upon God with strong cries and tears; some sunk down, and there remained no strength in them; others exceedingly trembled and quaked; some were torn with a kind of convulsive motion in every part of their bodies, and that so violently, that often four or five persons could not hold one of them. I have seen many hysterical and epileptic fits, but none of them were like these in maBy respects. I immediately prayed that God would not suffer those who were weak to be offended; but one woman was greatly, being sure they might help it if they would, no one should persuade her to the contrary; ! ATHENEUM VOL. 7. and she was got three or four yards, when she also dropt down in as violent an agony as the rest. Twenty-six of those who had been thus affected (most of whom, during the prayers which were made for them, were in a moment filled with peace and joy,) promised to call upon me the next day; but only eighteen came, by talking closely with whom, I found reason to believe that some of them had gone home to their houses justified; the rest seemed to be patiently waiting for it.' A difference of opinion concerning these outward signs, as they were called, was one of the subjects which had distracted the London Methodists, and rendered Wesley's presence among them necessary." Over these new prophets, the Methodists prevailed, though not without a considerable struggle; and itinerant preaching began to grow common. Samuel Wesley, the elder brother, thus writes to his mother at this date" "It was with exceeding concern and grief I heard you had countenanced a spreading delusion, so far as to be one of Jack's congregation. Is it not enough that I am bereft of both my brothers, but must my mother follow too? earnestly beseech the Almighty to preserve you from joining a schism at the close of your life, as you were unfortunately engaged in one at the beginning of it. They boast of you already as a disciple. Charles has told John Bentham that I do not differ much, if we understand one another. I am afraid I must be forced to advertise, such is their apprehension, or their charity. But they design separation. Things will take their natural course, without an especial interposition of Providence. They are already forbid all the pulpits in London, and to preach in that diocese is actual schism. In all likelihood it will come to the same all over England, if the Bishops have courage enough. They leave off the liturgy in the fields: tho' Mr. Whitfield expresses his value for it, he never once read it to his tatterdemalions on a common. Their societies are sufficient to dissolve all other societies but their own: will any man of common sense or spirit suffer any do I mestic to be in a bond engaged to relate every thing without reserve to five or ten people, that concerns the person's conscience, how much soever it may concern the family? Ought any married persons to be there, unless husband and wife be there together? This is literally putting asunder whom God hath joined together. As I told Jack, I am not afraid the church should excommunicate him, discipline is at too low an ebb; but that he should excommunicate the church. It is pretty near it. Holiness and good works are not so much as conditions of our acceptance with God. Love-feasts are introduced, and extemporary prayers and expositions of Scripture, which last are enough to bring in all confusion: nor is it likely they will want any miracles to support them. He only can stop them from being a formed sect, in a very little time, who ruleth the madness of the people. Ecclesiastical censures have lost their terrors, thank fanaticism on the one hand and atheism on the other. To talk of persecution therefore from thence is mere insult. Poor Brown, who gave name and rise to the first separatists, though he repented every vein of his heart, could never undo the mischief he had done." "Samuel Wesley* died within three weeks after the date of this letter; and John says in his journal, we could not but rejoice at hearing from one who had attended my brother in all his weakness, that several days before he went hence, God had given him a calm and full assurance of his interest in Christ. Oh! may every one who opposes it be thust convinced that this doctrine is of God!' Wesley cannot be suspected of intentional deceit : yet who is there upon reading this passage would suppose that Samuel had died * In the History of Dissenters by David Bogue and James Bennet, (vol. iii. p. 9.) Samuel Wesley is called "a worldly priest, who hated all pretence to more religion than our neighbours, as an infallible mark of a dissenter !!" The amiable spirit which is displayed in this sentence, its liberality, its charity, and its regard to truth, require no comment. This passage may probably have been the cause of the breach between John Wesley and his brother's family, and to that breach the preservation of Samuel's letter is owing. after an illness of four hours?—well might he protest against the apprehension or the charity of those who were so eager to hold him up to the world as their convert. The state of mind which this good man enjoyed had nothing in common with the extravagant doctrine of assurance which his brothers were preaching with such vehemence during the ebullition of their enthusiasm ; it was the sure and certain hope of a sincere and humble Christian who trusted in the merits of his Saviour and the mercy of his God. He died as he had lived, in that essential faith which has been common to all Christians in all ages;-that faith wherein he had been trained up, which had been rooted in him by sound education, and confirmed by diligent study, and by his own ripe judgment. And to that faith Wesley himself imperceptibly returned as time and experience taught him to correct his aberrations. In his old age be said to Mr. Melville Horne these memorable words: When fifty years ago my brother Charles and I, in the simplicity of our hearts, told the good people of England, that unless they knew their sins were forgiven, they were under the wrath and curse of God, I marvel, Melville, they did not stone us! The Methodists, I hope, know better now: we preach assurance as we always did, as a common privilege of the children of God; but we do not enforce it under the pain of damnation, denounced on all who enjoy it not." " Not long after this, Wesley separated from the Moravians, with strong feelings on both sides; but these time considerably healed. The Wesleyans, however, maintained the doctrine of Christian perfection in the new man; the Moravians, that a leaven of corruption remained in the old till death. But a more memorable event was the separation between Wesley and Whitfield. Wesley wished to obtain Whitfield's acquiescence in his favourite doctrine of perfection, the free, full, and present salvation from all the guilt, all the power, and all the in-being of sin, a doctrine as untenable as it was acceptable to weak minds and inflated imaginations. He knew also that Whitfield held the Calvinistic tenets of election and irreversible decrees; tenets which, if true, would make God unjust, and the whole Gospel a mere mockery. Upon both these subjects he wrote to his old friend and disciple, who at this time, though he could yield to him upon neither, wished earnestly to avoid all dispute. My honoured friend and brother,' said he in his reply, for once hearken to a child, who is willing to wash your feet. I beseech you, by the mercies of God in Christ Jesus our Lord, if you would have my love confirmed towards you, write no more to me about misrepresentations wherein we differ. To the best of my knowledge, at present no sin has dominion over me, yet I feel the strugglings of indwelling sin day by day. The doctrine of election, and the final perseverance of those who are in Christ, I am ten thousand times more convinced of, if possible, than when I saw you last. You think otherwise. Why then should we dispute when there is no probability of convincing?" The Calvinistic Methodists in England, however, forced on the separation which their leader Whitfield thus deprecated in his letters from America, (1740.) "One of the leading members in London, by name Acourt, bad disturbed the society by introducing his disputed tenets, till Charles Wesley gave orders that he should no longer be admitted. John was present when next he presented himself and demanded whether they refused admitting a person only because he differed from them in opinion. Wesley answered no, but asked what opinion he meant. He replied, ⚫ that of election. I hold that a certain number are elected from eternity, and these must and shall be saved, and the rest of mankind must and shall be damned.' And he affirmed that many of the society held the same; upon which Wesley observed that he never asked whether they did or not; only let them not trouble others by disputing about it.' Acourt replied, Nay, but I will dispute about it. Why, then,' said Wesley, would you come among ་ 6 6 are of another us, who you know mind?'- Because you are all wrong, and I am resolved to set you all right.' I fear,' said Wesley, your coming with this view would neither profit you nor us.' Then,' rejoined Acourt, I will go and tell all the world that you and your brother are false prophets. And I tell you in one fortnight you will all be in confusion.'" Wesley now turned to the organization of those who adhered to his opinions. The system of classing, still in practice, was adopted; itinerancy was taken up, and lay preachers soon laboured in common with those who were originally in orders. Nelson, a stone mason in Yorkshire, greatly distinguished himself among the first in this line. The Quakers had long before given up this custom, so that it was quite a novelty: but" Cotton Mather has preserved a choice specimen of invective against Dr. Owen, by one of the primitive Quakers, whose name was Fisher. It was, indeed, a species of rhetorick in which they indulged freely, and exceeded all other sectarians. Fisher addressed him thus: Thou fiery fighter and greenheaded trumpeter; thou hedgehog and grinning dog; thou bastard, that tumbled out of the month of the Babylonish bawd; thou mole; thou tinker; thou lizard; thou bell of no metal, but the tone of a kettle; thou wheelbarrow; thou whirlpool; thou whirligig; O thou firebrand; thou adder and scorpion; thou louse; thou cow-dung ; thou moon-calf; thou ragged tatterde→ malion; thou Judas: thou livest in philosophy and logic, which are of the Devil.'" Methodisin must now be considered as having taken root in the land. Meeting Houses were erected in various parts, settled upon Wesley as the head and sole director of the society. Funds were raised, and a plan of finance established. Preachers and assistants provided. To this stage Methodism had arrived in 1742, when its founder lost his mother. Two of Wesley's sisters were miserably married, a third to a clergyman named Whitelamb, and the fourth died of a broken heart. Wesley |