dreaded for their inhospitable treachery by every mariner acquainted with the navigation of the Pacific. With respect to their habits of life, they are Cannibals of the most inveterate kind; licentious in their manners beyond even the neighboring tribes; reckless of each others' lives to an almost inconceivable degree; and, in short, as Captain Wilkes indignantly calls them, wretches in the strongest sense of the term.' Such is the forbidding picture which the American Commander draws of this savage race, and we shall presently see that his worst opinion was confirmed by unhappy experience.

On the 6th of April the Squadron sailed from New Zealand, and, on the 24th, they reached Tonga, the largest of the Friendly Islands, where they were joined by the Peacock, from Sydney, on the 1st of May. The Tongese appear to have struck Captain Wilkes as superior to any of the other natives of the Pacific Islanders, and as greatly resembling the Samoans, though superior in many respects even to these. But his intercourse with the natives, cautious and well-disposed as he invariably found them, was rendered difficult, by the existence of a desperate civil war between the Christian and Heathen inhabitants of the island-a calamity which, we are sorry to On the 8th of May the Vincennes and find, Captain Wilkes attributes to the hasty Peacock arrived off Óvolau, a small island and intolerant zeal of the former party. upon the eastern coast of Vitilevu, which The American Commander exerted himself lies nearly in the centre of the group, and to the utmost of his power to reconcile the anchored in the harbor of a town named two factions; but his mediation appears to Levuka. On the 11th, they were joined by have been attended with very little success; the Flying-fish; and on the 12th, these vesas a bloody battle was fought immediately sels were visited by Tanoa, King of the after his departure, in which the converted neighboring district of Ambau, and the natives were entirely defeated, and most of most powerful Chief in the Feejee Islands. their principal Chiefs slain. The squadron On the 15th, the Peacock sailed from Lesailed from Tonga on the 4th of May, and the next day made the Feejee Islands.

vuka for Rewa, an anchorage upon the eastern coast of Vitilevu; to which place she The Feejee or Viti Archipelago lies to was originally dispatched, merely for the the north-east of Tonga; and consists of ordinary purposes of the expedition. But two large islands, named Vitilevu and Va- shortly after her departure, Captain Wilkes nualevu, besides a great number of smaller received information that a most atrocious ones. Their climate is delightful, and they and treacherous massacre had taken place abound in the most picturesque and beau- in 1834, at Kantavu, an Island to the southtiful scenery; but the inhabitants of this ward of Vitilevu; in which a mate and favored spot are, without exception, the some seamen, belonging to an American most savage and treacherous race in the merchantman, had been murdered by the Pacific. In personal appearance they are natives; and that the assailants had been rather a fine race, of a deep-black complex- commanded, on that occasion, by a chief ion, with closely curled hair,-displaying named Vendovi, brother to the King of none of the negro deformities of face and Rewa, and now residing in that neighborfigure; but they effectually disfigure them-hood. Captain Wilkes thought it absolutely selves by dressing their hair in a thick wiry necessary for the protection of his defencewig, clipped into the most grotesque shapes; less countrymen, to convince these ferocious somewhat resembling in texture and ap- Islanders that every such outrage was sure, pearance the fantastic masses of foliage, into sooner or later, to meet with just retribution. which the gardeners of the last century It is easy to imagine how strongly a tribe of took so much pains to torture certain trees savages must be tempted to robbery and and shrubs. They appear to possess more violence by the spectacle of a large ship, spirit and energy than most of their neigh-freighted with what are to them the most bors; but this does not prevent them from inestimable treasures, and defended by only displaying all the indolent selfishness, the twenty or thirty men--the majority of whom, insensibility to shame, the irreclaimable and unrestrained by the imperfect discipline of apparently instinctive mendacity, which a merchant vessel, are generally wandering characterize the worst Polynesian races. They are a most dangerous and sanguinary, as well as an unamiable nation,-perpetually engaged in civil war, which they carry on with the most vindictive ferocity; and

unarmed on shore. It is only by the dread of retaliation,-severe in proportion to the delay and uncertainty of its infliction, that the savage can be induced to let such a prize escape him. And we therefore think.

even expostulation, on the part of the culprit. On the surrender of Vendovi, his countrymen were of course set at liberty, and he was confined on board; the particulars of his guilt being fully established by his own confession. He was transferred to the Vincennes, when the two vessels next joined company, and continued a prisoner during the remainder of the voyage, but fell sick and died about the time of the arrival of the squadron in the United States.

that Captain Wilkes carried his forbearance fected without the slightest resistance, or quite as far as was justifiable, in merely ordering Captain Hudson to seize and secure the person of Vendovi; and in declining to enter into general hostilities with the guilty district, unless the other Chiefs should, by endeavoring to protect their ringleader, openly declare themselves his accomplices. The Peacock, on her arrival at Rewa, was received with great hospitality by the King and two of his brothers, whose barbarous names and titles we spare our readers; but the guilty Vendovi did not make his appearance, though it subsequently appeared that the American officers had, on one occasion, been in his company on shore. It happened, however, that the day after the receipt of Captain Wilkes' special orders, had been fixed, for a formal visit to his ship, by all the native dignitaries. They were of course permitted to come on board as usual, but Vendovi was still absent. Captain Hudson now thought himself justified to take advantage of the situation of the Chiefs, to compel them to do justice with regard to his complaints; and he therefore communicated to them his orders, and informed them that it would be his duty to consider them as enemies, and consequently as prisoners, unless the actual perpetrator was surrendered. Those who are accustomed to place that confidence in the good faith and forbearance of their neighbors, which the habits of civilized life justify, can form little idea of the consternation with which a party of Pacific Islanders, accustomed to see blood shed upon the most trifling provocation, received this announce

ment.

The Vincennes lay at Levuka for several weeks; during the whole of which time Captain Wilkes continued upon the most amicable terms with the neighboring Chiefs, some of whom had been expected to resent the capture of their ally Vendovi. In the meantime, the Tender was busily employed in surveying the intricate straits and reefs lying between Ovolavu and Vitilevu; as well as the islands forming the southern division of the Feejee group. She afterwards, commanded by Captain Wilkes in person, visited for the first time the large island of Vanualevu, which lies to the northeast of Vitilevu; on whose coast she was joined by the Porpoise, which had parted company from her consorts the morning of their arrival at Levuka, and had since been occupied in exploring the range of small islands forming the eastern boundary of the Feejee group.

On the 28th of June, the Vincennes put to sea from Levuka, and, on the 2d of July, anchored in a bay named Savu-Savu, on the southern coast of Vanualevu; and, on the 5th, she removed to Sandalwood Bay, at the western extremity of the same Island, where she found the Peacock just arrived. The latter ship had left Rewa on the 23d of May, and had since been employed in surveying the western coasts of Vitilevu and Vanualevu. On the 16th, the Tender, accompanied by several of the boats belonging to the Vincennes and Peacock, and commanded by Captain Wilkes himself, left Sandalwood Bay on an exploring excursion; and the next day they fell in with the Porpoise, which had been engaged among the small Islands to the north-east, ever since she last parted company from the Tender. The detachment then proceeded to survey the Asaua islands,-a string of rocks form

The Chiefs expected nothing short of an immediate massacre; and it was with much difficulty that Captain Hudson persuaded them that no injury, or even disrespect, was intended to their persons, unless they chose to assume the character of enemies to his nation. At this explanation their relief was great, and they eagerly joined in admitting the justice of his demand. Vendovi, indeed, had long been dreaded and disliked, even by his ferocious countrymen, for his turbulent and sanguinary disposition. Some years before the massacre at Kantavu, he had murdered one of his own brothers in cold blood, for a bribe; and he was now upon very doubtful terms with the survivors. It was accord-ing the north-western boundary of the Feeingly agreed that one of the three Chiefs detained on board, should go on shore and bring him off as a prisoner; which, contrary to all reasonable expectation, was ef

jee Archipelago. But just as this duty was completed, and as preparations were making for their return to the ships, Captain Wilkes received intelligence, that at Ma

lolo, the southernmost island of the Asaua group, situate on the western coast of Vitilevu, a treacherous attack had been made by the natives upon one of his boats; and that the assailants had been repulsed with difficulty and loss, leaving two officers -the lieutenant in command of the party, and a young midshipman-dead on the spot.

after burying their murdered companions, with all the honors of war, upon a small desert island between Malolo and Vitilevu, proceeded to inflict signal punishment upon the guilty tribe.

The Island of Malolo contained two towns or villages; one named Sualib, on the southern coast, and the other named Arro, on the northern. The Brig was anThere is, perhaps, no more perplexing chored off the south-eastern end of the point of international law, than the ques- Island, and near the former place. Four tion-in what manner, and to what extent, of the boats, commanded by Captain Wilkes, a civilized voyager is entitled to inflict re- and accompanied by the Tender, then protaliation upon a tribe of barbarians for such ceeded to Arro; while the remainder, unoutrages as this. He has none of the ordi- der Captain Ringold, of the Porpoise, landnary means of obtaining redress. There is ed at Sualib. The former division took no municipal law to fix the punishment in- possession of the town, and entirely descurred by the offenders; no magistrate troyed it, without the slightest opposition; whose business it is to see justice done; no the warriors having all intrenched themgovernment to be made responsible, if other selves in a certain citadel or stockade at means fail. It would be absurd to rely Sualib, which was considered as the perupon the reluctant protection of some sav- fection of Feejee military architecture; and age Chief,-himself, perhaps, the instiga- had the reputation of being absolutely imtor of the crime complained of; whose first pregnable. In this strong hold, the natives measure would, undoubtedly, be the con- defended themselves for some time with cealment of the real perpetrators-probably considerable spirit; but at length, the huts the boldest and most valuable warriors of being set on fire by rockets, and the garrihis tribe and the murder of a few useless son having sustained considerable loss by or obnoxious slaves as a substitute. It musketry, the assailants entered the place would be equally absurd to employ a party and found it deserted. Some of the naof seamen, to explore the woods and fast- tives, who attempted to escape in their canesses of an unknown island, constantly noes, were overtaken and captured by one exposed to be cut off by treachery, in the of the boats; and the rest took refuge hope of their being able to recognize, among among the rocks and woods, in the interior thousands of tattooed and painted savages, of the Island, where their women and chila few individuals never seen but once be- dren had previously been concealed. Their fore, and then in the confusion of a deadly total loss was believed to have amounted to scuffle. And yet, few Commanding-officers fifty-seven men killed; that of the Ameriwould have the firmness to use the only ef- cans being one man mortally, and a few fectual means of punishment; and to inflict others slightly wounded. the horrors of war upon a community of suppliant and defenceless savages; all of whom possibly might be wholly innocent of the offence committed.

On the day after the engagement, the natives sent on board the Porpoise, to request peace and make offers of reconciliation. But Captain Wilkes was too much acquaintFortunately for the ends of justice, no ed with Feejee customs and feelings, and too such difficulty arose in the present case. well aware of the excessive importance atThe inhabitants of Malolo-long renowned tached by all warlike savages to the particuand dreaded among their neighbors, for lar tokens of success or defeat, which may. their warlike and piratical propensities- constitute their point of honor, to receive had an overweening opinion of their own their submission in so unceremonious a powers, and were entirely ignorant of the manner. It is well known that the Ameriformidable weapons of civilized warfare. can Indian considers it no triumph to exterIt was soon found that their Chiefs, so far minate a hostile tribe, unless he can carry from entertaining any wish to exculpate off the scalps of his victims; and by a fanthemselves, or to offer redress, were busily tastic refinement of the same kind, the Fee-. employed in preparing to receive the Ameri-jee Islander never considers himself decan detachment with open defiance. This feated, until he has been compelled to do conduct clearly left Captain Wilkes no al- homage to his enemy, in a certain recogternative; and the Brig, Tender, and boats,nized form. Upon this public acknowledg

ment of defeat, Captain Wilkes very wisely and properly thought it necessary to insist, and it was accordingly performed upon the beach near Sualib, by all the surviving Chiefs and Warriors of the Island.

being complete, they put to sea from Mali; and to the great delight of all on board, except the exiled Vendovi, lost sight of the inhospitable shores of the Feejee Archipelago for the last time.

On the 24th September, the Vincennes, having parted company from her consorts on the passage, reached the Sandwich Islands, and anchored in the roads of Honolulu, the capital of the Island of Oahu. The Tender was aiready at anchor; the Peacock arrived on the 30th; and the Porpoise, which had been left behind to make some additional surveys in the Feejee group, on the 7th of October. The King of the Sandwich Islands, Kamehameha III., arrived at Honolulu on the 29th of September, for the express purpose of welcoming the American officers. He is a young man, and his appearance and manners made a very favorable impression on Captain Wilkes. His portrait, with its closely shaven face, short mustache, and well-fitted uniform, contrasts strangely with those of his kinsmen, the grim Chiefs of Ambau and Rewa; though we are far from certain that, in point of picturesque dignity, the advantage is on the side of the more civilized Polynesian. The Sandwich Islanders-or Kanakas, as they call themselves-are, like the Tahitians, reclaimed and softened by semi-civilization. Notwithstanding the stain left upon their character, by the treacherous murder of the illustrious voyager who first discovered their country, they are in general a harmless and well-disposed race; and appear to be more trustworthy, and to have more regard for truth and honesty, than the tribes of the southern Pacific. But they are dull, indo

With what motives, or upon what argu ments, the conduct of Captain Wilkes, throughout this lamentable affair, has been, as he himself informs us, accused as cruel, merciless, and tyrannical,' we are unable to conjecture. Assuming-as surely, in dealing with facts so notorious, we safely may -that his public account of the matter is correct, we are inclined to think, that further hesitation in commencing hostilities, would have been nothing short of unpardonable weakness, in any man recognizing the lawfulness of self-defence; and that, hostilities being actually begun, any irresolution in continuing them, until the complete submission of the enemy, would have given the attempt the character of useless and therefore unjustifiable revenge, instead of necessary chastisement. We are to remember that the question is not whether a civilized Commander can afford to overlook with contemptuous compassion, an insult to his national flag; or can bring himself, as a Christian, to pardon the cruel murder of his friends. The question is, whether some fifty or sixty hostile savages shall be put to death, in just and open warfare; or whether the crew of every vessel which approaches their shores shall be exposed to massacre, until some maritime nation is roused to the determination of making a terrible example, and the infatuated islanders are exterminated to a man. Could a Feejee Chief be brought to comprehend the power of the countries to whose commerce in the Pa-lent, and timid; and it is clear from several cific the incorrigible piracies of his countrymen had for so many years been a constant grievance, he would readily acknowledge, that such conduct as that of Captain Wilkes was the truest humanity; not merely to those who may be exposed to future acts of violence, but to those who might be tempted to commit them.

incidents related by Captain Wilkes, as having occurred during the subsequent ascent of Mauna Loa, that they retain all the want of sympathy for each other, and all the thoughtless selfishness which forms so remarkable a feature in the inert and feeble character of the Polynesian mind.

On the 3d of December, the Vincennes After leaving Malolo, the boats returned sailed from Honolulu, and stood to the directly to Sandalwood Bay; and shortly south-east; on the 8th she made the Island after, the Vincennes and Peacock got un- of Hawaii, the largest of the Sandwich der weigh, and anchored off Mali-a small Isles; and on the 9th she anchored in Hilo island on the northern coast of Vannaleon Bay. The principal object of her visit to -in readiness to sail on the 9th of August: Hawaii, was to survey a large volcanic mounthey were joined at this station by the Por-tain named Mauna Loa, whose summit is poise and the Seagull, which had been dispatched from Malolo to revisit Kantavu, Levuka, and Ambau. And on the 11th, the surveys and other duties of the squadron

nearly 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. The party employed in this duty was commanded by Captain Wilkes himself, and consisted of several officers and scien

Mauna Loa, the whole of the adventurous party were more or less affected by very distressing symptoms of indisposition; but no serious illness occurred, nor did any dangerous accident take place, except in the case of a single seaman.; who was accidentally left behind, exhausted, during the ascent of a small detached party from the Recruiting to the Flag Station, and was not discovered until nearly frozen to death. On the 13th the party broke up from the encampment at Pendulum Peak;

tific gentlemen, ten seamen, and about two | favor of the latter, the question of suprehundred natives, who acted as guides and macy throughout the Pacific Ocean. Duporters. They left the ship on the 14th,ring their long stay upon the summit of and encamped for the night beside a vast volcanic lake or crater, at a place named Kilauea, at the south-eastern base of Mauna Loa. The 17th was passed in surveying the crater of Kilauea; which is an oval pool or lake of fire, about 1500 feet by 1000 in diameter, lying in the centre of a rocky and precipitous valley nearly ten miles in circumference. Captain Wilkes, who himself descended to its edge, gives a most appalling description of the narrow escape experienced some days afterwards by one of his party, who was surprised by a sud-and on the 14th, they completed their deden rising of the lava, while collecting spe- scent, and reached the crater of Kilauea. cimens within the surrounding descent. Several weeks were passed in various surOn the 18th the ascent of Mauna Loa was veys and experiments at Kilauea and elsecommenced; and on the evening of the where in the island; and on the 5th of 19th the exploring party encamped at the March the Vincennes sailed from Hilo Bay. height of 6000 feet above the level of the On the 6th she anchored in Lahaina roads, sea. Here they were joined by fifty offi-off the island of Maui, which lies to the cers and men from the Vincennes, whose north-west of Hawaii, in a line between assistance it had been found necessary to that Island and Oahu. On the 17th she procure, on account of the indolence, in-left her anchorage, and on the 18th returned subordination, and continual disputes of to Honolulu. On the 23d she was joined the Kanakas; so that the party now con- by the Porpoise, which had sailed on the sisted of nearly three hundred men. The 16th of November; and had since been 20th, being Sunday, was passed in repose; employed in making a more accurate surbut on the 21st the ascent was resumed, vey of the Paumotu group of islands. The and they reached a large cave, which was Peacock and the Flying-fish had left Honosubsequently very useful as a depot for lulu on the 2d of December, and were still stores; and a shelter for those who became absent. On the 5th of April the Vincennes disabled by the mountain sickness,-from and Porpoise sailed from Honolulu for the this circumstance called the Recruiting North American coast. On the 28th they Station. A lieutenant and a party of men arrived off the Columbia river; but the were left at this place; and on the 22d the weather was so unfavorable, and the surf party reached another encampment, after- upon the bar so dangerous, that they were wards known as the Flag Station, where a compelled to defer entering it. They acparty was also left. At length, on the 24th, cordingly proceeded to the northward, and they reached their last and highest station, on the 1st of May entered the straits of San a point called by the sailors Pendulum Juan de Fuca, and anchored in Port DisPeak; and situated on the eastern side of covery. On the succeeding days they conthe crater, at the summit of the mountain. All hands were employed in constructing a camp upon this exposed point; which was at length imperfectly effected by building walls with the loose fragments of lava, so as to shelter the tents from the piercing and stormy winds continually blowing. In this dreary situation, several days were passed; and on the 12th of January, 1841, Captain Wilkes ascended the highest summit of the mountain-a point almost exactly opposite to Pendulum Peak. From this elevation he measured the height of the neighboring mountain of Mauna Kea, which he found to be 193 feet above him; thus settling, in

tinued to advance into Admiralty Inlet, and on the 11th reached its extremity, and moored off Fort Nisqually,-a stronghold erected to protect the property of the Hudson Bay Company.

From this day until the 17th of June, their time was passed in various scientific experiments at Nisqually; and in expeditions to explore the neighboring prairies and rivers,-particularly the Columbia and its tributaries. The Vincennes and Porpoise then removed from Nisqually to New Dungeness, an anchorage within the straits of San Juan de Fuca, for the purpose of surveying the winding creeks and inlets of