ences from them, but, it strikes me with surprise that there should be any examples of this kind, in a country where public opinion is extremely offended by such gross violations, I will not say of religion, but of morals and decency, and where there is power to remedy the evil. From such examples it has probably arisen that the Eng. lish church is so often stigmatized with us as corrupt. While the accusation, in many instances, proceeds, without doubt, from narrow and prejudiced views, it is to be regretted that any spots should be seen by the world on robes which ought to be only of the purest white.

July 27.-My morning was engrossed by business, and at two o'clock, P. M. I left home for Hatcham house, the seat of Mr. Hardcastle, whom, with his interesting family, I have mentioned before.

It was very grateful to me to escape from London, and to refresh my eyes with a view of the delightful grounds, around this gentleman's seat. Our party was very social and pleasant. Mr. Hardcastle has all the substantial excellence of the English character, with a degree of mildness and suavity of manners, which cause affection for his person to go hand in hand with esteem for his virtues. Mrs. Hardcastle and the young ladies are worthy of such a husband and such a father. Afier dinner a walk was proposed in the gardens, to which we all consented. Several of the gentlemen amused themselves with playing at ball

, while Mr. Hardcastle, a young clergyman from Ireland, and myself, walked along the avenues and gravel ways. Fortunately this was not the Irish clergyman of whose loquacity I complained when here before. When the young ladies came into the gardens, I joined their party, and left the gentlemen. We rambled over and over

the grounds, and I found in the manners and conversation of these ladies much delicacy, affability and good sense. It would be difficult to discover any serious difference between them and ladies of the same standing with us, and I am satisfied that in England, as well as in other countries, an estimate of female character will be most correctly made from a familiarity with the retired scenes of private life. If barrow-women fight battles in the streets of London, and fashionable ladies drive phætons in Hyde Park, we must not conclude that masculine manners are general, and that female softness and loveliness do not shed a charm over the domestic circles of England. But, to such scenes a stranger is rarely admitted with any considerable degree of freedom.

Mr. Hardcastle showed me a curious relic. It was a çedar chest that once belonged to the celebrated Dr. Owen, when he was secretary to Oliver Cromwell, in which he kept the papers of this sagacious and successful usurper.

Ile exhibited to me also a pair of silk garters knit by one of the Hottentots who were christianized in this country. I walked home (six miles) and arrived in safety although at a late hour.

I have omitted to remark, that this excellent family are predisposed to treat America and Americans with much kindness. We owe this, principally, to their high admiration of our distinguished countryman, familiar here. They consider him, as one of the first of preachers, and one of the first of men. One of the family said, “I delight to walk in these grounds, because they remind me of

who often condescended” to walk with me here, and to exert his uncommon powers of instructing and pleasing.” Another said: “ we cannot pre

who was

[ocr errors]

tend to cope with him : we rarely see so great a man." This admiration, however, is blended with much personal affection.

July 28, Sabbath.--As I wished to form an estimate of the state of the English church from my own observation, I have not attended worship at any particular place since I have been in London, but have gone into the churches of the establishment wherever I could find them, and frequently without knowing the name either of the church or the preacher. To-day, I have been to a church of the establishment in Bedford-row, whither I was led by the reputation of Mr. Cecil, one of that description of ministers, whom those of similar sentiments style evangelical, while, by others, they are called methodists in the church. Mr. Cecil was not only full of his subject, but seemed “mainly anxious that the flock he feeds should feel it


His discourse was well written, but he has the misfortune to be possessed of a constitution so feeble, that his limbs are not competent to support him during the delivery of a discourse, and he is compelled to sit on an elevated seat; his house (a very large one) was crowded to overflowing. *

In the evening I attended service at the female asylum, on the Surry side of the river. This is a charitable institution for the education of two hundred female orphans. I had the pleasure of seeing them all neatly dressed, and behaving with much decorum during public worship. The asylum is designed to prevent the ruin of those who,

* There was one striking difference between this and other churches wbich I had attended in London: there was very prompt civility in offering a seat.

from being left destitute of their natural protectors, and of a support, would be exposed to almost infallible destruction. Here the female orphan is received, educated, and ultimately provided with means of procuring a subsistence.

I had occasion formerly to mention the civilities of the American consul at Liverpool, and I am happy now to acknowledge those of the consul for London. From Gen. Lyman, I have received unsolicited kindness, and sometimes of a very useful kind.

My letters from America have informed me that considerable solicitude for my safety had been felt by my transatlantic friends, on account of the ice which destroyed the Jupiter and so many of her people. I am, however, gratified by learning to-day, by a letter from NewYork, that the safe arrival of the Ontario in England was known to my friends in America.


- Escursion to Greenwich-Method of sprinkling the streets in

London, and of supplying it with water-New River and Lon. don Bridge Water Works—Vast commerce of the Thames--Objects on the river-Greenwich hospital-Great beauty of the buildings-Veterans—Their vacancy of mind-Greenwich park --Singular popular amusement-Royal Observatory-Seat of the Princess of Wales–Of the late Lord Chesterfield.


July 30.— Immediately after breakfast, I proceeded with a companion on foot to the tower. The morning

was warm for the season, but the evaporation from the water which was flowing in the streets, tended to restore an agreeable coolness. London is supplied with abundance of water, by machinery under London bridge, which raises the water from the Thames, and also by the new river, which is distributed into every part of the town by subterranean pipes.

I know not that I can convey in any way so good an idea of the manner in which the immense population of London is supplied with good water, as Hy the following account copied from the Picture of London.

“ Notwithstanding there are one hundred and sixty thousand houses in London, yet by means of the New River and London Bridge water-works, every house and almost every room is most abundantly supplied with water, which is conveyed into it by means of leaden pipes, with unfailing precision and regularity, for an expense to each house of only a few shillings per annum. The new river is a canal of nearly thirty-nine miles in length, cut for the sole purpose of conveying a regular supply of water to the metropolis, by Sir Hugh Middleton, and first opened in 1608. Its termination, called the New River Ilead, adjoins to Sadler's Wells, and from hence the water is conveyed in every direction, by means of fifty-eight main pipes of the bore of seven inches. These convey the water under ground along the middle of the principal streets; and from them branch to every house, leaden pipes of half an inch bore." 6 The water rises in most houses into the second floor, and in many into the third and fourth stories. By means of one water and two steam engines it is, however, forced to a still higher level, and thus made to supply parts of the town which are situated as high as, or higher

- 6


« VorigeDoorgaan »