ductions, and ought not to be, according to the associations which this combustible is known to have in other countries and in other parts of Britain.

No. LI.-FALMOUTH.

Situation and appearance of the town-Harbour and surrounding country-Pendennis castle-Station for packets-View from the heights near Falmouth.

Sept. 8, Sunday.-I went into the only church which I saw in the place;-in the morning a considerable portion of the audience was composed of the officers and soldiers of Pendennis castle, but, in the afternoon, the pews were almost empty, although the streets of the town were swarming with people.

Falmouth is built principally of stone, but with very little elegance; the streets are narrow, crooked, dirty, and mean, and although the town contains about five thousand inhabitants, it makes but an insignificant figure. It is however delightfully situated, on the western side of one of the finest harbours in England, and enjoys a considerable trade. The bay, as I have already remarked, is almost surrounded by high hills, the declivities of which, sloping to the harbour, have considerable beauty. Several small rivers, or arms of the sea, flow into the harbour, and give water carriage to Penryn, Truro, and other towns. The entrance into the bay is between two lofty hills, ou one of which stands Pendennis castle, built by Henry VIII. and rendered famous by its brave defence against the par

liament forces, in the time of the civil wars. The fortifications are enlarged and now appear very formidable. The hill on which Pendennis castle stands, is uncommonly beautiful, and forms a peninsula, from the isthmus of which I saw the Lizard point distinctly.

Falmouth harbour affords a safe road for the largest ships, and derives no small share of its present consequence, from its being the station for the Lisbon, WestIndia, and American packets.

On the opposite side of the bay, is the little village of Flushing. So completely is Falmouth harbour surrounded by the land, that the outlet cannot be discovered either from the town, or from any part of that side of the bay on which the town stands, but, on ascending the hills, on the way to Truro, the mouth of the harbour comes into view, and, with it, the shipping, the town, the bason, and Pendennis castle. From these heights the prospect is very fine, and a stranger who would go away with the most advantageous impressions of the appearance of Falmouth, should never approach any nearer to it than the summit of these hills,

No. LII.-RIDE TO SALISBURY.

Lonely evening ride-Robberies less frequent in England than is generally imagined in America-Exeter-Ambition in a shoeblack-An English lieutenant-His refinement-AxminsterCharmouth-French and Spanish prisoners-Sympathy of the lieutenant-Death of a young woman-Waste land—Bridport -Telegraphs--Dorchester-Duke of Gloucester's death

Blandford.

Having no friends in Falmouth, and seeing nothing to detain me there, I stepped into my gig, a little after sunsetting, and drove twelve miles to Truro. My ride, although solitary, was pleasant, for, as twilight declined, a full moon quickly lighted up the heavens, and shed her lustre on the hills. As I was driving through Penryn, I met Mr. Magor, one of the kind Cornish friends, from whom I had received so many attentions at Redruth. I shall ever remember this worthy man with pleasure, and he allows me to hope that we shall meet again in London, before my final departure from that city. My ride was marked by no other incident, for, although I was travelling alone, and unarmed, through a country by no means populous, I felt no apprehension of assault or robbery. Such events, I believe, do occasionally happen in England, but they are so unfrequent that no one seems to trouble himself about them. I had provided myself with a pair of pocket-pistols, but, finding them useless lumber, I threw them into a closet, as soon as I was settled in London, and they will, in all probability, not be disturbed till I take my leave of England.* I saw no robbers on my

*

During no part of my residence or journeys in Europe did I carry any weapon, or need any.

ride, but I met several parties of the country people, dressed in their Sunday clothes, and walking with much apparent gaiety.

Truro is one of the handsomest towns in Cornwall; it is built of stone, and stands on the declivity of a hill; its principal business is in copper and tin, and it enjoys the coinage or stamping of the latter article.

Sept. 9.-At five in the morning I left Truro in the stage. It was with reluctance that I relinquished the idea of visiting Plymouth; for, I found that the arrangement of the stages was such that this deviation would demand a greater sacrifice of time than I could afford, consistently with the plan which I had formed of visiting Paris in the course of the autumn. I gave up the idea with the less reluctance, as I expect to see Portsmouth, which is distinguished for the same thing which makes Plymouth interesting, that is, for being a principal station of the royal

navy.

As I travelled over the whole of the route of to-day, when I was on my way down, I shall say nothing of the country, but merely inform you that we reached Exeter at nine at night. The moon shone with great splendour, and I walked out with two or three of my stage companions, to obtain such a view of the town as we could by moon-light.

Exeter is tolerably built; it contains about seventeen thousand inhabitants. It stands on the navigable river Ex, over which there is a handsome stone-bridge, and enjoys a considerable trade. We walked in a beautiful grove of ancient forest trees, which is situated immediately back of the town; near this grove we saw the remains of an ancient castle, which, as we were informed, was

battered down in Cromwell's time, for Exeter was loyal, and afforded protection to Henrietta, queen of Charles I. by which means it drew down the vengeance of the parliament. We saw the Cathedral also; it is one of the most spacious and magnificent Gothic structures in the world; and although it was almost five hundred years in building, its appearance is quite uniform; as it was night we could not see the inside, and were able to admire only the grandeur and magnitude of the plan.

We lodged in a vast hotel, where there was even a greater number of servants than is usual at English inns. When I called for the boots to bring a pair of slippers, I was surprised to see, instead of the squalid, miserably looking fellow, to whom this duty is usually assigned, a well-dressed young man enter the room, with the smart air of a cockney. I supposed that there had been some mistake, but I soon found that this was really the boots, who had, by good management or good fortune, risen to be a kind of head of the boot-blacking department, and employed others under him, to do the brushing and blacking, while he gave only the last polish, and received the orders and fees. This was a station of dignity which I had never seen before.

One of my companions to-day was a lieutenant in the English navy. He had circumnavigated the world with the celebrated Vancoover; he was present at Copenhagen, with Nelson, when he almost annihilated the Danish marine, and, in the course of an active life, had seen much of war and adventure. He considered the attack on Copenhagen as a rash thing, for which Nelson would have been disgraced, had he failed; and he maintained that the English ships, from their being aground, were all in the power