PARISH OF MID-CALDER.

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE.*

I. TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.

Name, Boundaries, &c.-CALDER is a common territorial appellation in Scotland, and always denotes some spot adjacent to water, or rather to a rivulet. This name is of Celtic origin-Cal, Cel, or Coil, being descriptive of wooded or wild regions; and Dur, or Dour, signifying water.

The parish of Mid-Calder lies in the direction of north and south; and, by the straightest footpath or bridle-road, from the north-east to the south-west extremity of the parish, extends from eleven to twelve miles in length. Its average breadth is from two and a half to three miles; but, in one place, it does not extend above three or four hundred yards. It is bounded on the north by the parish of Uphall; on the south, by Linton; on the east, by the united parishes of Kirknewton and East-Calder, together with those of Currie and a small portion of Kirkliston; and, on the west, by the parishes of West-Calder and Livingstone. By a singular coincidence, Liston-Shields, the property of the late Sir Robert Liston, which is situated on the south-east extremity of this parish, belongs to Kirkliston, although it lies at the distance of seven or eight miles from any other part of that parish. The ridge of the Cairn hills forms the southern boundary of the parish, and may be considered as a continuation of the Pentlands westward till they reach the parish of West-Calder. There are no elevations in this parish which can properly be called mountains. The eastern Cairn Hill is the highest point; and, if Knox's map can be relied upon, its summit is about 1800 feet above the medium level of the sea. This spot commands a most extensive view of the Frith and basin of the Forth, with the adjacent scenery towards Stirling, the coast of Fife, and the Ochils. At the eastern extre

Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rev. John Sommers,

mity of the Cairn Hill, which forms the south-east boundary of the parish, south of Harper-rig, there is a hollow slope or declivity, known by the name of the Caldstane Slap, through which pass, lies the drove road most commonly frequented by dealers in sheep and cattle between the Scotch and English markets. This road is passable also for travellers on horseback during the summer months.

The village of Mid-Calder is delightfully situated on the south bank of the Almond, near its junction with Linhouse and Murieston Waters. On the east, is the extensive and romantic wood of Calder; and, on the west, is Calder House, which stands on an elevated lawn, surrounded by ornamental walks, and sheltered by lofty trees and numerous plantations. The town is twelve miles west of Edinburgh, twenty from Lanark, and thirty-two from Glasgow. Calder was formerly the name of a district in the western part of the county of Edinburgh, or Mid-Lothian, comprehending the three parishes of Calder Comitis or Mid-Calder, Calder Clere or East-Calder, and that portion which now constitutes the parish of West-Calder. The first of these obtained its name from having been in possession of the Earls of Fife, so early as the twelfth century; and the second, Calder Clere or East Calder, from one Randulph de Clere, who held a grant of the manor from Malcolm IV. The parish of Calder Clere was united to that of Kirknewton in 1750, and was, at same time, detached from the presbytery of Linlithgow, and united to the presbytery of Edinburgh. This extensive parish of Calder Comitis, in 1645, was again divided into those of Mid and West-Calder, as appears from our presbytery records, in which it is stated that, on the 12th of June of that year, Patrick Shields was translated from the parish of Livingstone to West-Calder. This threefold division of the original parish sufficiently accounts for the scantiness of the teind, and, consequently, for the limited portion of stipend allotted to each of these benefices.

Meteorology. The temperature of the atmosphere varies considerably between the banks of the streams clothed with wood in the lower districts of the parish, and the higher ground upon the cold boggy land and barren heath. In low, sheltered situations, the thermometer generally ranges between 35 and 60; and the barometer from 28 to 30.

Hydrography. This parish is intersected by three considerable rivulets, which run from west toeast-the Almond, the Murieston,

and the Linhouse waters.

On entering this parish on the west, these streams are distant from each other about a mile and a-half; but they all meet together at the northern extremity of the village, by the two last mingling their waters with the Almond. In passing through the parish, these streams are increased, in their progress, by many small tributaries, flowing from innumerable springs in the higher grounds. Besides the three waters above-mentioned, there is another, which takes its rise in the upper and southern district of the parish, called the Wester Burn, which, after proceeding eastward, assumes the name of Leith-Head Water, or Water-of-Leith, intersecting the parish in the same direction from

west to east.

The springs in this parish are very numerous, and inany of them consist of pure, soft, and excellent water; but there are others in which the water is so much impregnated with iron, that its quality may be easily distinguished, both by the taste and smell. On being exposed, however, for a few minutes to the air, these peculiarities can scarcely be perceived. It then becomes agreeable to the taste, and fit for all culinary purposes.

Geology and Mineralogy.—This parish is intersected by three great public roads; the northern line running between Edinburgh and Glasgow; the middle line between Edinburgh and Ayr; and the southern line between Edinburgh and Lanark by Carnwath; the two former passing through the village of Mid-Calder. From the Almond northward to the parish of Uphall, the ground has a southern exposure; but from the river to the summit of the Cairn hills, which form the boundary between this and the parish of Linton, the aspect of the ground is to the north. The land upon the banks of this river and all its tributary streams, as may be supposed, is, in general, the most fertile, and some of it consists of a rich, dry, and productive loam; but, on retiring from the banks to a more elevated situation, the ground generally becomes less fertile, and at length terminates in a thin, barren clay, upon a hard, cold, and dark-blue till or shale. But even this naturally sterile soil has been rendered productive in some places, by thorough draining, and the liberal application of lime and other kinds of manure. It may be observed, that in the upper district of the parish there is a large portion of naturally unproductive land, which, by proper draining, spade-culture, hoeing, and other modern improvements, might be sufficient to support a numerous population.

Abundance of excellent rock of various kinds, such as freestone,

(sandstone,) whinstone, and limestone, has been discovered in different places throughout the parish. Quarries of all these have, at one time or other, been in actual operation. One for road-metal is now open on the estate of Howden, the property of Mrs White. This, however, is intended only for private use. Another, on the estate of Linhouse, was in operation not many years ago; and one on the estate of Pumpherston, belonging to the Earl of Buchan, both of which are now used for the public roads. A quarry of excellent limestone has long been, and still continues open, for the supply of the neigbouring tenantry, on Mr Hog's estate of Easter Murieston. This limestone has never been found in a regular stratum, but in long beds or nests, or of a round globular form, at short distances from one another. It admits of a beautiful polish, and has been used as marble, both in the country and in Edinburgh. A considerable stratum of excellent limestone, some years ago, was also opened up in the lands of Colzium, by pits, now the property of the Rev. Dr Laird of Portmoak. A kiln of it was burnt and examined by Dr Fyfe, and was found to be of the best quality; but, being too distant from coal, it afforded no prospect of covering the expenses necessary to render it useful to the community. A freestone quarry has long been in operation in Calder-wood. The stone is fit for all kinds of architecture, being hard and durable, and capable of being wrought to an unlimited extent. Within these few years, a quarry of unexhaustible freestone was opened at the bottom of the ridge of the Cairn Hills. In this quarry, blocks of any magnitude may be raised at a moderate expense; and the buildings which have been already erected of this stone, are sufficient to prove that, from its durable nature and beauty, it is eminently fitted for all the purposes of the most delicate architecture. The bottom of the Cairns Hill seems to be wholly composed of this stone; and the extent and thickness of it must be immense. The dip of the strata of all these rocks is, in general, towards the south. In several places on the banks of the Murieston Water, and particularly on the property of John Keir, Esq., there is a kind of rotten rock, intermixed with a species of crystal, in the cavities of which have been found small portions of bitumen; but the stone itself is of little value, because, after being exposed for a year or two to the action of the air and frost, it crumbles into dust. No animal remains have hitherto been discovered in any of these rocks; but several petrifactions of the pine tribe have been found in the strata, and small portions

also of crystallized quartz. Many excellent specimens of valuable ironstone are almost everywhere to be found in the beds of the rivers; but the quantity is not sufficient to compensate the expense of carriage and the labour of digging them out of the banks.

A fine specimen of rich lead ore was lately dug up, by Mr Young of Harburn, when sinking for water, in one of his farms in this parish. It was found about sixteen feet below the surface. But no attempt has hitherto been made to follow up this discovery, although, since that period, lead ore has been dug up in three other parts of the Harburn estate. A small seam of coal was also found, some years ago, in the upper district of the parish, between Camilty and Crosswoodburn; and, since that time, several others have been discovered, one of them between three and four feet thick, very near the surface; and this estate abounds also in limestone and manganese, with many promising appearances of iron. The covering of the rocks is of various kinds. If the rotten rock or whinstone be near the surface, the soil is dry and fertile; but when deep, it is generally cold and wet. It cannot be said that any of these fields of rock are covered with alluvial deposits, or with transported soil, unless what has been for ages accumulated along the bottom of the Cairn Hills can be considered of this description. In many spots, the soil may be considered as rich; but, being exposed to so much moisture, and in so elevated a situation, the process of vegetation must necessarily be slow; and the grasses being of a diminutive growth, although of excellent quality, yield a more scanty supply.

Botany. The plants most peculiarly attached to the best soils are the poas, meadow fescue, Timothy grass, cocks foot, Dactylus glomerata, meadow soft grass, or Yorkshire white, Holcus lanatus. On moist clay and mossy soils is to be found that very valuable grass brought into notice by Dr Richardson of Ireland, and which has been advantageously cultivated by Mr Young of Harburn and others, in the parish of Mid-Calder, to great extent, and at little expense,-the creeping bent grass, or fiorin, Agrostis stolonifera. It grows luxuriantly in a wet or spongy soil, unsuitable for other grasses; and its growth is most vigorous in moist, warm, and sheltered spots. In favourable seasons, when properly cultivated, it yields from four to five hundred stones per acre of the most nourishing food for cattle and horses ; and it is not liable to be injured by the wetness of the season like