OXFORD is, indisputably, the most beautiful city in England. It contains a far larger and richer display of medieval and academic architecture than any other; and it yields to none in picturesque variety. And as it is the most beautiful, we doubt whether it be not also, at any rate to Englishmen, the most generally interesting of English cities. Indeed, apart from its Indeed, apart from its attractions in point of taste, the place could hardly fail to be regarded with more than common interest, wherein so many of our greatest men laid the foundation of their greatness in that "culture and manurance of the mind," as Bacon terms it, which not alone prepared them to produce such abundant fruit in their season, but by its "forcible though unseen operation," conduced more than anything else to the formation and completion of their whole moral and mental character; wherein so many are being educated of those on whom the future virtue, and, therefore, honour of our country will depend; and that so abounds with recollections and associations which appeal to our loftiest feelings, and are connected with so much that is important in our history. Few who think of its fame, and recollect its associations, and recognize the dignity of its position, can approach it for the first time without some (it may be vague) excitement of feeling; and assuredly, none who do so approach it are disappointed. When even those come to visit it, who, from carelessness or prejudice, usually regard it with indifference or dislike, the genius of the place seldom fails to seize hold of them; gradually better and kindlier feelings supersede those which were before cherished; and the placid grandeur, the peaceful venerableness, of this ancient favourite of the Muses, is recognized and respected. A first visit to Oxford is a thing to remember.

The situation of Oxford is singularly fortunate. Scarcely could the noble city have been placed where its surpassing beauty would be more admirably displayed. It stands on a slight eminence between the rivers Isis and Cherwell, and near their confluence. Hills of gentle elevation surround it; from nearly all of which its matchless array of domes and spires is seen to great advantage. In the days of stage-coach travelling, the visitor, in whatever direction he came, as he drew near, obtained a glorious prospect of the good city; and he seldom forgot that first view. Now that it is generally reached by the railway, little is seen of the city till it is entered :—and then the view from Folly Bridge is a poor substitute for the famous one from Magdalen. The visitor has now to seek after a general view of Oxford; but if he have any delight in the survey of what is beautiful, he will not fail to do so :-the general view of Oxford is in its way quite without a rival.

There are many places from which this view may be obtained. One of the best stations is a short distance up the Abingdon Road. From a point sufficiently

VOL. II.

elevated to command the whole town, the splendid series of buildings falls into a most picturesque composition, while a fertile and richly-wooded level tract, with the silver Thames winding through it, stretches between you and the city; and a line of softly-swelling uplands forms an agreeable back ground, and completes the picture: it is a view that always fills a painter's heart with delight, and might be transferred at once to the canvas, without changing a single feature. One of the finest of Turner's early pictures-the large engraving from which is probably known to many of our readers-is, indeed, a very faithful transcript of this scene. The other most celebrated views are those from Hinksey Hill, from Shotover Hill, and from the Henley Road. The former are very beautiful; but we have preferred giving an engraving of the latter, as that least known. The spot from which it is taken is some distance up the Henley Road, and about midway between the villages of Ifley and Cowley. The academic spires and pinnacles stretch across the view. As from most places the great dome of the Ratcliffe Library, and the magnificent spire of St. Mary's (the University Church) occupy the centre, and around them the loftier parts of the various colleges are seen ranging themselves in picturesque order. The tall pile on the extreme right is the famous tower of Magdalen College, -a prominent object from almost every part of Oxford and its vicinity; while, on the left, the cupola of the Tom Gateway, and the Cathedral steeple, indicate the site of Christ's Church College. The other buildings it is unnecessary to particularise. Another and very fine view of Oxford is thus described in the 'Rambles by Rivers '—(“ The Thames :")" It is perhaps from the gentle slopes. between Wytham and Binsey, that the best general view of Oxford is obtained. The broad sheet of water stretches beneath and before you, and the dark roofs and tall chimneys of the western suburb, which occupy the middle ground, serve to throw into a finer distance, and impart a more airy grace to the long range of towers, domes, and spires, that form the picture, and that mark, as we know, spots where have lived and laboured a succession of the noblest men that our country-so rich in noble men-has to boast of." The slopes here intended are probably those of Wytham Park, the property of the Earl of Abingdon; but the stranger had better not go there in search of the prospect:-admission is no longer granted to the wayfarer.

Our wood-engraving of Oxford (Cut, No. 1) is taken from the Thames near Binsey Green, just under Wytham Park. It is, perhaps, not so striking a prospect as some others, but we select it because it is less known, and has seldom, if ever before, been engraved. In this view, the city is seen from the opposite direction to that of the steel engraving.

We shall defer our examination of the interior of the city till we have glanced hastily over its history.

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Like almost every ancient and every important city, Oxford has sought the aid of fable in order to extend its antiquity. It is, however, hardly worth our while to inquire whether it was a city in the shadowy era of the early British princes, or to search after the date of its foundation; nor need we stay to consider curiously" into the origin of its name. It seems to be generally allowed that the name arose from there having been a ford across the Thames here; but Warton, and some other learned writers of late date, have attempted to show that it was originally called Ousen-ford, or the Ford of the Ouse, a usual Saxon name for a river; and they think their hypothesis is supported by the preservation of the word in Ouseney, or Oseney Abbey, in the adjacent meadows; while the common opinion is, that Oxford owes its name to the ford being one chiefly used for oxen. This last is the favourite etymology of our older antiquaries, who found some pretty classical supports to strengthen it; and it is that adopted by the city itself, which carries as its arms "an ox gules passing through a ford"-an authority that surely ought to satisfy all reasonable people as to the sufficiency of this derivation. The name was written Oxnaford by the Saxons; in the Domesday Survey it is Oxeneford; and Oxenford it continued to be written down to a comparatively recent period.

Whatever was the date of its foundation, it was a place of some consequence in Saxon times, and was not unfrequently the seat of royalty. Alfred is said to have resided here; and some of his coins still exist, on which the name of the city is inscribed. In 1010 it was burned by the Danes, but it appears to have been quickly restored; for, not long after, it is spoken of as the residence of Edmund Ironsides, who died here, as was supposed, by unfair means, in 1016. During the reign of his successor, Canute, the great council of the nation was often held at Oxford. After

the death of Canute, it was here that the Council met to decide on the rival claims of Harold and Hardicanute to the throne. In accordance with their decision, Harold was crowned at Oxford; and it was at Oxford that he died. At the Norman invasion the citizens of Oxford refused to submit to the Conqueror; and when, after his coronation, he marched into Oxfordshire, they resolutely denied him admittance into the city. But they paid dearly for their temerity. William stormed the walls, and wreaked a terrible vengeance on the inhabitants. The more effectually to keep them in subjection, he gave a considerable portion of land to one of his followers, named Robert D'Oilli, on condition of his erecting and maintaining a castle. The Domesday Survey, compiled about eighteen years after William's storming of the city, affords striking evidence of the effect of his violence, or of subsequent oppressive measures, or, perhaps, of both combined.

"In the town itself, as well within the walls as without, there are two hundred and forty-three houses paying the tax; and besides these, there are five hun

pence

dred houses, save twenty-two, so waste and decayed that they cannot pay the tax." It deserves notice, too, as a proof of the king's resentment, that while other places, on account of their poverty, were rated at lower sums than in Edward's time (the survey being so drawn up as to show the present value as compared with that in the lifetime of the Confessor), Oxford was amerced at a far higher sum. "In the time of King Edward, Oxeneford paid for toll and gable, and all other customs, yearly to the king, twenty pounds and six sextaries of honey. But to Earl Algar ten pounds, his mill being added, which he had below the city. When the king went on an expedition, twenty burgesses went with him for all the others; or they paid twenty pounds to the king that all might be free. Now Oxeneford pays sixty pounds by tale, of twentyin the ore." One other short passage is worth quoting, as an instance of the kind of tenure by which houses were held in walled towns:-" The king has twenty mural mansions, which were Earl Algar's in King Edward's time, paying then and now fourteen shillings save two-pence." And after enumerating other similar mansions of the king's, it adds, "They are called mural mansions, because, if it be necessary, and the king command it, they repair the walls." A list of those who hold mural mansions is then given, and it proceeds: "All these hold the aforesaid mansions free, because they repair the walls. All the mansions which are called mural were, in King Edward's time, free from all customary payments, except expedition and reparation of the walls. And if, while the wall is necessary, it is not renewed by him who ought to do it, he shall either pay forty shillings to the king or lose his house." Some distance further the penalty for refusing to join an 'expedition is also stated: "If he who is warned to go on an expedition do not go, he shall pay one hundred shillings to the king."

In the next reign Oxford was raised from its adversity by the presence and favour of the sovereign. Henry I. appears to have entertained considerable partiality for the town, perhaps, as Wood asserts, from his having been educated there. He built for himself a residence at Oxford, which was called Beaumont Palace, and was occasionally occupied by royalty down to the time of Edward II., who gave it to the society of Carmelite Friars for a monastery. A dilapidated fragment of it remained till 1830, when it was removed to make way for a new street, which, from its occupying the site of the palace, received the name of Beaumont-street. Henry also conferred upon inhabitants of Oxford a charter of incorporation. Robert D'Oilli, the nephew of the Robert who built the castle, also contributed to the prosperity of the city by the foundation of the Abbey of Oseney.

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Early in the following reign, Oxford witnessed the treacherous arrest of the bishops of Salisbury, Ely, and Lincoln; an event that had no small share in producing the calamities of the ensuing years. Stephen summoned a council at Oxford in 1139. Among the