plete the romance of our present adventure, you will both fall in love with her; and we shall have a single combat in the court of the castle, unless perhaps you would prefer a lover's leap, à la Sappho.

They dined at half-past eleven with their host and his family, shortly after which the anxiously expected interview took place. The Capitanessa was still young and beautiful though a widow; she alone was seated upon their entrance; her younger sister stood by her, and a numerous train of female attendants superbly attired, were ranged round the room. The dress (for who would omit the dress of so conspicuous a character in our travels) was composed of a light blue shawl gown, embroidered with gold; a sash tied loosely round her waist, and a short vest without sleeves of embroidered crimson velvet. Over these was a dark green Polonese mantle, with wide and open sleeves, also richly embroidered. On her head was a green velvet cap, in the shape of a coronet, embroidered with gold, and a white and gold muslin shawl fixed on the right shoulder, and passed across her bosom under the left arm, floated over the coronet, and hung to the ground behind her.

When the Capitanessa had ordered chairs for her guests, she invited her sister to be seated by her, and they were entertained with coffee and other refreshments.

Their visit over, they reluctantly took leave of their hospitable hosts, and accompanied by a guard they proceeded on their journey. Edward and Antonio declared, that this was the most delightful adventure they had yet had.

On leaving the village of Kistrees, they ascended a winding road, round a rocky promontory, which stretched itself about half a league into the sea. A number of small villages with their churches are scattered in the valley which surrounds it, beyond which appeared a dark chain of mountains, whose tops were covered with snow. As they passed along, the inhabitants came out on all sides to welcome them, men, women, and children. They prosecuted their journey over a barren stony soil to the shore, and then proceeding along the coast, they came to Cardamyla. The honey in this part of the country is nearly equal to that of Hymettus, and the numerous apiaries on the side of the hills have a pretty effect. At Cardamyla they were particularly entertained at witnessing the dexterity with which boys from eight years old and upwards, fired with a rifle gun. But what perhaps was still more amusing, was a group of girls and women slinging stones and bullets at a mark; their attitudes were graceful, nor were they less feminine in feature or demeanour than the Grecians of the other parts of the Morea. These games were succeeded by dances. In the evening our travellers embarked in a small boat, for the inland road was impassable. As they coasted the shore, the village of Luctra was pointed out to them, and at the entrance of a creek stood the tower of a chief to

whom they had been recommended. This Capitano was a man of most warlike and enterprising disposition, and seldom appeared in a dress much superior to that of his followers; but in order to honour his guests, the day after their arrival he exhibited the following splendid costume.

He wore a close vest, of white and gold embroidery, and a short black velvet mantle, with sleeves edged with sables. The sash which held his pistols was a shawl of red and gold. His light blue trowsers were gathered at the knee, and below them were close gaiters of blue cloth embroidered with gold, and silver gilt bosses to protect the ankles.

When he left the house he flung on his shoulders a rich cloth mantle with loose sleeves, which was blue without and red within, embroidered in gold in the front, and down the sleeves in the most superb manner. His turban was green and gold; and contrary to the Turkish custom his hair appeared below it. His sister was attired in a rich dress, resembling that of the Capita nessa already described. Indeed the dress of the different ranks in this country differ only in quality. The women do not wear trowsers but petticoats. They are extremely beautiful; for to the contour of an Italian countenance they add the complexion found in the more northern parts of Europe.

The feudal system, which in former times so basely enslaved the human mind, has had different effects in Maira; for the government, if such it can be called, is, strictly speaking, feudal. Every Capitano has his retainers and followers, over whom he exercises jurisdiction, and the most powerful of these is honoured with the title of Bey of Maina, but still his authority extends only over his own territory. He enjoys the post of honour it is true, and his authority receives the sanction of the Porte. And if war should be declared, either openly or not, he is expected to take the command. The Capitano, in whose house they now were, had been in several engagements, accompanied by his sister. Their piratical depredations were most extensive, and the sight of their trattas, as their long, narrow, canoe-like boats were called, spread universal terror.

SECTION IV.

APPEARANCE OF A NEW ISLAND.

THEY parted from the warlike chief with regret, and continuing their journey under the protection of his retainers along the foot of Taygetus, they at length reached the boundary of his domains, where they were met by fresh guides to conduct them down the opposite side of the Plutsa. Before their former guards

5

took leave, they fired their rifles over the heads of our travellers, as a mark of friendship and respect.

They now lost almost every trace of vegetation. Here the mountain of Taygetus is a continuation of naked crags. Not a tree, not a bush was to be seen, and our travellers rejoiced at reaching the town of Vitulo (formerly (Etylos) which is built along a rocky precipice at the foot of which is a deep creek of the sea. A mountain torrent rushing through a deep and gloomy glen falls into this creek not far from the town. Here they remained but one night, for except viewing the church, which contains some curious relics of architecture supposed to be taken from a ruinous temple in its vicinity, they saw nothing worthy of notice. The chief and his family, to whom they had letters of introduction, was absent; and although they experienced every attention, they resolved to proceed to Marathonisi, the capital of Maina, and with an escort of sixteen Mainiotes, they resumed their journey. The first part of their route was along a narrow road, which wound with the torrent along a gloomy dell, shut in by rocks and precipices. And now again the scene assumed the air of romantic novelty, for the armed Mainiotes looked more like banditti than guards. They had, however, experienced too much hospitality to be under any apprehensions, and at length emerging from this wild scene, they entered a more fertile tract of country, in which were scattered several hamlets; and as they again approached the sea towards the east, they saw the re mains of a square Venetian fortress.

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During their journey over this uncultivated plain, Dr. Walker' asked their guards if they had seen in their nautical excursions the new island which had risen from the sea, near Sartorini. "Yes," redlied one of them, "I have not only seen it, but was at Santorini when it first made its appearance.' 'Indeed," said Edward, perhaps then you can tell us something about it.' "Certainly," replied the Mainiote, "for I shall never forget it: it' was on the 10th of May, in the year 1807, an earthquake was felt in Santorini*, and the next morning some sailors having observed what they thought was a wreck, rowed towards it, when to their great surprise they discovered rocks and earth. Terrified, they returned back to their island, and declared what they had seen about two or three days after this, the curiosity of many of the inhabitants, (I was one of them) led them to visit this new island, but while we were pulling some oysters from the rocks, the ground rocked under us; upon that we instantly made a precipitate retreat. The island now encreased considerably from several violent tremblings, but it often happened that as one part arose the opposite side was observed to sink. An immense rock we next saw rise from the bottom of the sea, at some little distance from the island, and after continuing visible four days, sunk,

* An island north of Candia.

and rose no more; but several smaller ones appeared in its stead and remained immoveable. During these violent convulsions of nature, the sea assumed a light greenish tint; it then became red and finally of a pale yellowish colour, emitting a most noisome smell. In July, a ridge of black stones suddenly rose from the bosom of the boisterous deep, about sixty paces from the island, where it was unfathomable, from which a prodigious smoke issued. These stones formed a separate island, and was called by the inhabitants of Santorini, black island, while the former they denominated the white island. Towards the end of the month several other rocks sprung up, and the island became every day larger, and immense volumes of flame issued from the burning mountains. The wind being calm, the smoke and flames shot up to so great a height as to be seen at Candia. The sea was covered with a yellowish and reddish froth, which emitted such pestilential effluvia,that the Santorines burnt perfumes in their houses, and kindled large fires in the streets to prevent infection. A sudden gale of wind dispersed the froth, but its beneficial effects were almost counteracted by its driving the smoke over the vineyards, which completely destroyed the grapes. The next phenomenon which attracted the attention of the observers was, that the sea was seen to smoke in two large circles near the volcanic island. It had the appearance of oil on the point of boiling, and many fish were thrown up dead on the coast of Santorini. This phenomenon lasted about a month, when it was followed by a hollow subterraneous rumbling; this noise was succeeded by that which immense bodies of stones thrown into a deep reservoir of water would produce; and this again by a noise resembling prodigious claps of thunder.

The fire now burst forth with redoubled fury, particularly from the black island: and the astonished spectators beheld the flames dart up three several times to a vast height, resembling so many immense sky rockets of a glowing red. In the night the scene was awful and sublime to a great degree, for these rockets and streams of fire bursting, fell upon the island as brilliant stars, so that it appeared all in a blaze.

"On the 9th of September the two islands were united by an extraordinary convulsion, and four volcanoes appeared, from which issued columns of fire, with a variety of noises. After various concussions and alterations in the form of this volcanic isle, it was so violently shaken on the 21st of September, that part of the largest volcano came tumbling down, and huge masses of burning rocks were hurled headlong into the sea to a considerable distance: after this tremendous explosion all was still and quiet for three or four days, when the flames again burst forth with greater fury than ever; and one clap of subterraneous thunder was so tremendous, that the people of Santorini crowded to the churches, supposing they were about to be engulfed in the general ruin which appeared to threaten the new and surrounding islands.

in order to excite the envy of both sexes; but it is high time we should retire to our sofas."

"I think,” said Edward, "the Turkish ladies are very much to be pitied."

"I do not know that," replied his friend, "they never know any other kind of life than that of seclusion; and indeed the opinion that they are totally deprived of liberty is erroneous. They go to the bagnio, they walk in the environs of the city; they visit each other; and the author we have been just studying, says, 'they are the only privileged persons in Turkey;' but am weary boys; so good night. On the following day they repaired to Constantinople, whither they were led by motives of curiosity and humanity. There had been a considerable fire in the city, five hundred houses having been burnt in the course of the night. Fire, however, appears in this country to be as little dreaded as the plague; and upon enquiring after the sufferers, they were answered with much sang froid, that there was no person burnt, and that therefore there was no cause for commiseration.

"How did it originate?" enquired. Edward of one of the bystanders.

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I suppose," said the man, "that some one kicked over his tendour."

Edward was now as wise as he was before; but Dr. Walker, who read his countenance, asked him if he had not observed the usual way in which the Turks warmed themselves. They have neither chimneys or stoves, but they make use of the tendour instead. This is a machine, about two feet high, in the form of a table, made of wood, into which they put hot ashes. A carpet, or piece of embroidery, is thrown over it, and at this stove they eat, drink, work, read, and very often sleep. In the latter case it sometimes happens that they kick over the tendour, and the ashes communicating to some of the surrounding furniture, it takes fire, the Turks, who are the most phlegmatic people in the world,. under the influence of most of the ordinary misfortunes of life, make their escape from their burning dwellings, with all possible dispatch, and conveying what furniture they can collect into a bark, they watch the progress of the flames with the utmost composure.

The magnificence displayed by the sultans, and even the bashas of Turkey is past all description. The trappings of the horses are of the most superb texture, studded with pearl and precious stones; their pipes cost sometimes as much as a thousand pounds. The pipe, which is long, being sometimes encircled after the manner of the scroll round Trajan's pillar, with the finest diamonds. An apartment in one of the royal palaces, is lined with mother of pearl, and fastened with emeralds, as the heads of nails. The girdles of the great ladies are always set with diamonds, with other precious stones; and those who can