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TROM the journals of fashion in London and the shoulder, serve to attach a quantity of coques, I Paris it appears that furs are very much worn or ends, also of different widths. The interior is abroad this winter, but hitherto we have not mark- decorated with hearts-ease of velvet and yellow ed their very general adoption in New-York. The hearts, and is fixed by several ends of velours sable, ermine, and chinchilla are, as in previous years, most fashionable. Sable harmonizes well with every color of silk or velvet, and it is especially beautiful when worn with the latter material. Cloaks, when trimmed with fur, should not be either so large or so full as when ornamented with other kinds of trimming. Many are of the paletot form, and have sleeves. They are edged with a narrow fur border, the collar being entirely of fur. For trimming mantles Canada sable is much employed. This fur is neither so beautifully soft and glossy, nor so rich in color as the Russian sable; but the difference in price is very considerable. In tone of color minx comes next to Canada sable. Squirrel will not be among the favorite furs this winter; it will be chiefly used for lining cloaks and mantles. Muffs are of the medium size adopted during previous winters. We may add that fur is not excluded from mourning costume.
Bonnets, although fanciful in their appearance, have a warm effect, being composed of plush, velvet, and terry velvet. Felt and beaver bonnets are also much in vogue, trimmed simply, but richly, generally with colors to match, and with drooping feathers. Genin has reproduced the latest London and continental modes. Bonnets of violet velvet are also trimmeil with a black lace, upon which are sprinkled, here and there, jet beads; this lace is passed over the bonnet and fixed upon one of the sides by a noud of ribbon velvet of different widths; two wide ends, which droop over |
epinglé ribbon, the same shade and color as the Bloomer costume—a costume which, it is scarcely c'entre of the hearts-ease.
necessary to say, has never yet been assumed by * Mantelcts of all sorts of shapes are worn: the a really respectable woman. most striking are very full, and have a hood. It II. Girl's Dress.—White satin capote black vel. requires great dexterity in cutting out the mante'vet dress with berthe; and sleeves trimmed with let to give a graceful appearance to this innova- slight silk fringe. Trousers of English embroidertion. The shape adopted is that called capuchin ed work. The Genin hat, of felt or beaver. bonne femme (or old woman's hood); it is very III. Walking Dress.—Bonpet of purple velvet comfortable, and the least apt to spoil the flowers with black feather; full mantelet of black vel»r feathers of the head-dress. There are also vet, trimmed with lace, and buttons; dress of dark mantelets like the above, made of lace, lined with valencias, very full, and plain. Another walking colored silk, which sets off the pattern; and this dress consists of pelisse and paletot of Nankin is most in favor. Every thing in preparation for cachmere, the former beautifully embroidered. :his winter is far from plain, being trimmed with IV. Evening Costume.—Dress of Brussels pet, embroidery, &c., or jet, lace, ribbons, velvet, blond, worn over a jupon of white satin ; the body is braid, half-twisted silk, gold beads, colored em- made en stomacher: the waist and point not very broidery ; in short, all the array of rich ornaments long; two small capes, one of delicately worked possible will be the order of the ensuing season. net, the other of plain net, meet, in a point in front
1. The Waistcoat Fashion, of which we have en demi-cậur; the short sleeve is formed by four heretofore given an illustration, is said to increase, frills, two of worked net, and two of plain net, and as it is graceful and convenient it would be placed alternately; the skirt is long, and extreme. more popular but for the ridicule cast on all inno- ly full; it has eight flounces, reaching nearly to vations by the vulgar or profligate women who the waist, and graduating in width towards the expose their natural shamelessness and ambition top; they are placed alternately, of worked and of notoriety by appearing in what is called the plain net
MARSHAL SOULT, DUKE OF DALMATIA. THE HOMES OF COWLEY AND FOX. ON the preceding page is a portrait, and un- WE have in the last Art Journal another of
der the head of Recent Deaths, in another W the pleasant gossipping Pilgrimages to part of this magazine, is a sketch of the his- English Shrines, by Mrs. S. O. Hall, and the tory of NICHOLAS JEAN-DE-Dieu Soult, the following abridgement of it will please all who last of the great Marshals created by the Em- have perused the previous papers of the series. peror Napoleon. He was unquestionably pos- In Chertsey and its neighborhood are memosessed of extraordinary abilities, fitting him rials of some of the noblest men of England. for eminence in many and diverse capacities, but it cannot be said that he was of the first rank of illustrious generals, as the world has been led to suppose, chiefly by the masterly but partial delineations of his career in the Peninsula by General Napier. He had a genius for war which qualitied him for every position in connection with it but that of leader in the field. The subtle and irreversible decisions of Napoleon followed his astonishingly quick apprehensions of facts, as suddenly as the thunderbolt follows lightning; but Soult, profoundly familiar with all the arts of war, and surpassing any of the great commanders with whom he was associated except only his chief, in the wisdom of his judgments, was yet so slow in his intellectual operations, so destitute of the enthusiasm, passion, and
17 fire, which in high circumstance give an alinost miraculous activity to the minds of the first order of men, that he could never have
ABRAHAM COWLEY. entitled himself to all the precedences he has CHERTSEY AND ITS FAMOUS CHARACTERS. received in history. Napoleon understood. The county of Surrey is rich to overflowing him, and in a few pregnant words addressed in memories, both of persons and events, and to O'Meara, gave that measure of his charac- the little quaint and quiet town of Chertsey ter which will be adopted as the final opin- could tell of the gorgeous and gloomy past as ion of the world. “He is," said Napoleon, much as many of its ancient neighbors within a "an excellent minister at war, or major- day's drive of the city. Had its old abbey stones general of an army, one who knows much but tongues, how they could discourse of years better how to manage an arıny than to com- when a visit to Chertsey was an undertaking; mand in chief."
though now the distance is but half an hour. The course of Soult as a citizen, a legisla- Nowhere within twenty miles of London tor, and a minister, was not one upon which does the Thames appear more queenly, or his best biographers will linger with much sweep with greater grace through its fertile satisfaction. The glory he had achieved as dominions, than it does at Chertsey. It is, one of the lieutenants of Napoleon, in that indeed, delightful to stand on the bridge in turbulent and grand career which has no the glowing sunset of a summer evening, and parallel for interest or importance in human turning from the refreshing green of the history, was his only claim to distinction in Shepperton Range, look into the deep clear politics. His master had an ambition as fair blue of the flowing river, while the murmur in its proportions as it was vast in its extent, of the waters rushing through Laleham Lock and brought to every purpose the same forces give a sort of spirit music to the scene. On of character and preternatural energy of in- the right, as you leave Chertsey, the river telligence; but Soult had no love for civil bends gracefully towards the double bridge of duties, but little capacity for them, and he Walton, and to the left, it undulates smoothly accepted place as a gratification of vanity or along, having passed Runnymede and Staines, a means of success in mercenary aims. We while the almost conical bill of St. Anne's atsee in all his private and political life "the tracts attention by its abrupt and singular form soilore of his revolutionary origin,”-proofs when viewed from the vale of the Thames. that he loved money and power far more than About a mile, on the Walton side, from our he loved honor, and himself far more than his favorite bridge (Old Camden tells us so), is the country or mankind.
spot where Cæsar crossed the Thames. Were The last of the imperial marshals, the last the peasantry as imaginative as their brethren of that gigantic race who filled the world with of Killarney, what legends would have grown a red glory like the gloom which will precede out of this tradition; how often would the the judgment, closed his stormy life peace- “noblest Roman of them all” have been seen fully in the place where he was born, and by the pale moonlight leading his steed over thence was borne to the Invalides, to “sleep the waters of the rapid river — how many well” with his old companions."
would have heard Cassivelaunus himself dur. ing the stillness of some particular Midsummer | now a mill, now a dove-cot, according to the night working at the rude defence which can wants of the abbey or their own fancies. still be traced beneath the blue waters of the Henry I. granted them permission to keep Thames. What hosts of pale and ghastly dogs, that, according to the old chronicle, spectres would have risen from those tran- they might take “hare, fox, and cats." King quil banks, and from the deepest hollows of John, in the first year of his reign, gave them the rushing current, and, like the Huns, who ample confirmation of all their privileges, almost live on the inspired canvas of Kaul- which, it would seem, they had somewhat bach,-fought their last earthly battle, again abused, for we find that the sovereign seized and again, in the spirit-world, amid the stars! their manors of Egham and “Torp” (Thorp) But ours is no region of romance; even rem-on account of a servant of the abbot's having nants of history, which go beyond the com- killed “Hugh de Torp." Oh, rare “old monest capacity, are rejected as dreams, or times !” The abbot was mulcted in a heavy put aside as legends. But history has enough fine. Then, while Bartholomew de Winchesto tell to interest us all; and we may be sat- ter was abbot, from 1272 until 1307, during isfied with the abundant enjoyment we have the reign of our first Edward, complaints were in delicious rambles through the lanes and made to Pope Gregory X. that the possesup the hills, along the fair river's banks, and sions of the abbey were alienated to civilians among the many traditional ruins of ancient and laymen, whereupon the pope issued a and beautiful Surrey.
bull ordering such grants to be revoked. Never was desolation more complete than It is worthy of note, that the Chertsey moin the ruin of the Mitred Abbey of Chertsey; nastery sheltered, for a time, the remains of hardly one stone remains above another to the pious, but unfortunate, Henry VI. tell where this stately edifice-since the far
“Poor key-cold figure of a Holy King, away year 664-grew and flourished, lording
Pale aslies of the house of Lancaster." it with imperial sway over, not only the sur- And the reader of Shakespeare will recall the rounding villages, but extending its paternal scene in which Richard meets the Lady Anne wings into Middlesex and even as far as London. on her way to Chertsey with her husband's The abbey was of the Benedictine order, and body. This poor king's remains had a claim to founded, almost as soon as the Saxons were be well received by the monks of Chertsey Abconverted from Paganism ; but it was finish- bey, for he had granted to the abbot the pried and chiefly endowed by Frithwald, Earl of vilege of holding a fair on St. Anne's-hill, Surrey. The endowment prospered rarely; then called Mount Eldebury, on the feast of the establishment increased in the reputation St. Anne's (the 26th of July): the fair has of wealth and sanctity; that it was "thickly changed its time and quarters as well as its populated” is certain, for when the abbey was patron, and is held in the town on the 6th of sacked and burnt by the Danes, in the ninth August, and called Black Cherry Fair. Mancentury, the abbot, and ninety monks, were ning, in his history of Surrey, says, that the barbarously murdered by the invaders. tolls of this fair were taken by the abbot, and
Standing upon the site of their now obli- are now taken by the owner of the site of the terated cloisters and towers, their aisles and Abbey House; thus the memory of King Henry dormitories, cells and confessionals, seeing VI. is commemorated in the town of Chertnothing but the dank, damp grass, and the sey to this day, by the sale of black cherries tracings of the fish-ponds-stagnant pools in in the harvest month of August! our day-it is almost impossible to realize the Centuries passed over those magnificent onslaught of these wild barbarians panting abbeys, whose ruins in many places add so for plunder, the earnest defence of men who much beauty to our fertile landscapes; they fought (the monks of old could wield either grew and grew, and added acre to acre, and sword or crosier) for life or death, the terri- stone to stone, and knowledge to knowledge; ble destruction, the treasures and relics, and but most they cherished the knowledge which painted glass, and monuments, the plunder of blazed like a lamp under a bushel, and kept the secret almerys, the intoxicated triunph all but themselves in darkness; they preachof those rude northern hordes let loose in our ed no freedom in Christ to the Christian fair and lovely island; what scenes of sav- world, they abolished no serfdom, they taught agery, where now the jackdaw builds, and no liberty, they enslaved even those who in the blackbird whistles, and the wild water- their turn enslaved their “ born thralls," and rat plays with her brood amongst the tangled saw no evil in it. Oh, rare old times ! BetWeeds!
ter is it for us that the site of Chertsey AbThe fierce sea-kings being driven back to bey should be scarcely traceable now-a-days their frozen land, King Edgar, willing to than that it should be as it was, with its proud serve God after the fashion of his times, re- pageants and pent-up learning!-Yet we have founded the Abbey of Chertsey, dedicating it neither sympathy nor respect for that foul to St. Peter, and vying with Pope Alexander king, who, to serve his own carnal purposes, in augmenting its privileges and its wealth. overthrew the very faith which had hallowed
Some of the abbots took great interest in his throne. But he did not attack and storm home improvements, planting woods, con- the Abbey of Chertsey, as he did other reliducting streams, enlarging ponds-building, gious houses. He came to them, this Eighth