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multitudes of the citizens broke into riotous expressions of joy, pillaged the Chapel Royal of Holyrood, and smashed everywhere the public symbols of Popery and Prelacy. A Convention of Estates, with the form of a Parliament, was speedily held in Edinburgh, to abolish Prelacy and re-establish Presbyterianism.

A company was now formed, amid national enthusiasm, to establish a great commercial Scottish colony on the Isthmus of Darien, and an edifice was built in Edinburgh for conducting its business. A sum of about £400,000, equal to one-third of all the available wealth then in the kingdom, was subscribed for the scheme, by all classes of the people. An expedition of about 1200 persons sailed, in 1698, from Leith, in view of an immense concourse from Edinburgh, and from all parts of the country, drawn together to witness their departure. A second expedition and a third sailed before news could arrive of the fate of the first. The colony took the name of New Caledonia, and called its intended capital New Edinburgh. But it went instantly to wreck, sank utterly to destruction, left scarcely a waif of either men or means, either substance or consolation, to float back to Scotland. The failure of the scheme arose, in a considerable degree, from discountenance by the Government; and it produced in the public mind not only despondency, but strong feelings of sullenness and irritation.

A Parliament met at Edinburgh in 1705 to entertain a proposal for the union of England and Scotland. The populace were still smarting under the Darien disaster, and did not fail to regard the new measure with keen suspicion. Crowds of them, during the progress of its discussion, blocked the Parliament House doors, overawed the meetings, insulted the persons or attacked the houses of the leading members, scoured the streets, shut up the city gates, and gave constant defiance to all the authorities. Not till a strong militia force was organized against them could the Act for the union be framed; and even then the signing of it was done by the members of Parliament under cloud of night, in obscure corners, where they were least likely to be observed by the mob. Edinburgh was now stripped of large part of her prosperity; and she lay for many years in an impoverished and heartstricken condition. Yet was she not tempted, in the rebellion of 1715, to relax one fibre of her loyalty to the Crown. Vigorous preparations were made to defend the city; and although the rebels got possession of Leith, and framed measures for capturing Edinburgh, they never ventured to make any serious attempt against it.

A remarkable tumult, known as the Porteous Mob, occurred in 1736. The populace, at an unpopular execution, insulted the city guard, and were fired upon, with the effect of six being killed and eleven wounded. Porteous, the captain of the guard, was tried and condemned for murder, but got a respite from the Crown. Some conspirators, believing that he would be reprieved, broke stealthily into the jail, carried him to the place of public execution, hung him up there on a dyer's pole till he was dead, and then quietly dis

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persed. The Government were indignant, and threatened to inflict severe punishment on the city, but were induced to temper their wrath into an order on its treasury for an annuity of £200 to Porteous' widow. A large reward was offered for the discovery of each of the conspirators, accompanied by an assurance of pardon to any accomplice who should give information; but not one of them was ever traced.

At the rebellion of 1745, a strong force was partly assembled, partly raised, in the city, and the defences were hastily repaired. The force moved out as far as Corstorphine, to arrest the progress of the rebel army, but was struck with panic at the first sight of it, and fled back in dismay. The leaders, after brief consultation with the principal citizens, resolved to surrender. A detachment of the rebels took possession of the city, and the main body encamped in the King's Park. Prince Charles set up his authority gaily at Holyrood, and exacted from the magistrates supplies for his army, but strictly respected the private property of the citizens. After his return from the field of Prestonpans, he blockaded the Castle, and provoked from it a cannonade, which did considerable injury; but at the end of two days he removed the blockade, and prevented all further mischief to the inhabitants. The Duke of Cumberland, when returning from the field of Culloden, slept at Holyrood, and caused fourteen of the standards which he had taken from the rebels to be burnt at the Cross.

In the years 1763, 1764, and 1765, tumults occurred in the city in consequence of scarcity of food, and could not be quelled without the aid of the military. In 1778, the Earl of Seaforth's Highland regiment, then quartered in the Castle, broke into mutiny, and took up a menacing position on Arthur's Seat, resisting for a time all efforts to win them back to duty, but were eventually conciliated without any fracture of the public peace. In 1779, while the question of the repeal of the penal laws against Roman Catholics was in agitation, a mob demolished a Romish chapel, destroyed considerable property of Romish priests and people, and continued for an entire day to defy the authorities. During the menaces of Buonaparte against Britain, the citizens made great demonstrations of loyalty, and raised a volunteer force of between 3000 and 4000 men. On the last night of 1811, a mob, chiefly of young men, scoured the streets, put the police to flight, and killed or mortally wounded several persons; and three of the rioters were afterwards tried and executed, amid circumstances which made a deep impression on the public mind.

the

In 1822, George IV. made a visit to Edinburgh, and was received with prodigious enthusiasm. He arrived on the 15th of August, remained till the 29th, and made a series of public appearances on a variety of occasions, in open air and under cover, all amid grand demonstrations of public loyalty. In 1824, two great fires struck awe into the inhabitants, and destroyed considerable part of the south side of High Street. In 1842, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert made a visit to Scotland, which was intended to be a

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private one for the Duke of Buccleuch and the Marquis of Breadalbane, but which the solicitations and enthusiasm of Edinburgh, backed by vast gatherings from the country, converted into a similar character to the visit of George IV. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were again in Holyrood three nights in 1850; and they have spent two nights in it in every subsequent · year, on their way to and from Balmoral.

In the times between the 12th century and the middle of the 16th, all the old suburbs and extensions of the original city, including Canongate, Cowgate, Pleasance, Bristo, Potterrow, and Westport, were built. In the next two centuries no extensions of any note were made; but about the middle of the 18th century a series of improvements began, which rapidly increased the city to more than twice its previous extent, and amazingly altered its appearance and character. First occurred the demolition of many old houses, and the erection of fine new ones in their stead, on the north side of High Street. Next occurred the draining of the North Loch, and the constructing of the North Bridge. Next began, about the year 1767, the building of the southern parallelogram of the New Town; and about the same time was commenced the part of the southern suburbs comprising Argyle, Brown's, and George's Squares. Next occurred a great demolition southward, on a line with the North Bridge, followed by the forming of the South Bridge, with its street-lines of houses, and some neighbouring thoroughfares. Steadily went on the building of the New Town, to the completion of the south parallelogram, to the forming of the north parallelogram, and to the constructing of other parts east and west; and, in 1814, operations were begun for cutting the new road along the side of Calton Hill, and erecting Waterloo Place and the Regent Bridge. Other improvements and extensions followed, the most remarkable of which was the forming of the line of communication by George IV.'s Bridge; but, on the whole, they received a check about the year 1827, and have not been resumed on any extensive scale. The population of the city and its environs in 1801 was 82,560; in 1851, 193,929.

Edinburgh, as built on the site we have described, under the circumstances we have related, could not fail to be a most picturesque town. The narrow limits of the ancient city, on the central hill, engirt by ravines and a defensive wall, obliged the increasing inhabitants to provide increasing accommodation, by building their houses storeys above storeys to a monstrous altitude. The steep sides of the hill, on becoming crowded with the lateral closes, compelled their houses to stand in rapidly descending order, somewhat like the trees of a forest on a precipitous bank. The ravines and vales, on coming to be occupied by streets or houses, forced them to sit down on the deep bottoms, overhung by the houses on the steeps; and they could be conveniently crossed by the new thoroughfares, at the great period of the general extension, only by means of lofty bridges, with roadways higher than the tops of the chimneys below. The spacious outspread eminences on the north

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and the south, and the slopes and the plains on the east and the west, when adopted as the sites of new streets, terraces, squares, crescents, and places, induced the designers, in the new spirit of the age, at once to plan the thoroughfares with great width of pavement and carriage-way, to interject extensive areas for landscape garden, and to give the lines of houses every character conducive to elegant display. Hence, by combination of site and structure of the Old Town and the New, has arisen a city of more striking character than any other in the world.

All competent observers are unanimous respecting the attractions of Edinburgh. Some view them in one light, some in another, with reference variously to situation, to structure, to fitness for trade or for empire; but all agree as to their undoubted pre-eminence. Three may be selected to speak for the whole. Professor Frank of Wilna says: "The situation of Edinburgb, the buildings of the new part of the city, and the views which it commands, are, in the strictest sense of the word, unequalled." Sir David Wilkie says: "What the tour of Europe was necessary to see elsewhere, I now find congregated in this one city. Here are alike the beauties of Prague and of Salzburg; here are the romantic sites of Orvietto and Tivoli, of Genoa and Naples; here, indeed, to the poet's fancy, may be found realized the Roman Capitol and the Grecian Acropolis." And says Mr. Hallam :—

"Even thus, methinks, a city reared should be,

Yea, an imperial city that might hold
Five times a hundred noble towns in fee,

And either with their might of Babel old,

Or the rich Roman pomp of empery,

Might stand compare, highest in arts enrolled,
Highest in arms, brave tenement for the free,

Who never crouch to thrones, or sin for gold.
Thus should her towers be raised; with vicinage
Of clear bold hills, that curve her very streets,
As if to vindicate, 'mid choicest seats

Of Art, abiding Nature's majesty,-

And the broad sea beyond, in calm or rage,
Chainless alike, and teaching liberty."

We shall conduct the tourist through the city and its environs in a series of convenient drives. We shall follow only the lines of thoroughfare possessing the largest amount of interest, avoiding those of inferior attraction or of too unpleasant a character; yet shall indicate, as we pass along, the localities of the more secluded objects of note, that any tourist who has a taste for them may know where to visit them; and we shall commence and terminate each drive at the Prince's Street end of Waverley Bridge, the centre of the chief cab-stand, in the neighbourhood of the railway termini, and of most of the chief hotels.

CALTON HILL, HOLYROOD, AND ARTHUR'S SEAT.

XXI.-CALTON HILL, HOLYROOD, AND ARTHUR'S SEAT.

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North Bridge and the Royal Theatre, right... 265 East Register Street and Leith Street, left; Waterloo Place, entered.........

Inland Revenue Office,
- right; Regent Bridge,
crossed; General Post
Office and High Calton
Burying-ground, right;
Waterloo Rooms and
the Calton Convening
Rooms, left; Prisons,
right.............................
Leave the carriage to
wait at the foot of the
Calton Stairs; walk up
to the crown of Calton
Hill.
Past Dugald Stewart's
Monument, the Royal
Observatory, Playfair's

the

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Monument, Nelson's Monument, and National Monument, and return to the carriage. Go eastward about 800 yards, along the Regent Road to a meeting of five thoroughfares; turn there to the right; and go 230 yards thence southward to Holyrood. Prisons, right; a face of crag, beneath Nelson's Monument, fancied to be a profile of Nelson, left; Gas Works and Canongate, in the valley on the right....... 269,270

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272

High School, left......... 271
Regent Terrace, de-
flecting to the left....... 286
Burns's Monument,
Low Calton Burying-
ground, and the stones
of Trinity Church,
right....
Abbey Hill, followed a
brief way, beneath a
viaduct of the North
British Railway to the
new approach to Holy-
rood.......
Queen Mary's Bath, right;
lawn of Holyrood, with
Queen Mary's Dial, left;
Holyrood Abbey and
Palace.........

Pass southward into the
Queen's Park.
Turn there to the right,
and go round the
Queen's Drive, a cir-
cuit of 3 miles. Α
footpath, called the
Radical Road, seen
curving round the brow
of Salisbury Crag on
the left, offers a series
of fine views to a tour.
ist who chooses to leave
the carriage at the
hither end and rejoin
it at the further end.
St. Leonard's Hill,

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Dunsappie Loch, right;

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282

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And there either turn to the left and follow the line of Regent Road and Waterloo Place to Prince's Street, or go right on 5 furlongs further, to the junction with Leith Walk. Turn sharp there to the left into Blenheim Place, and follow the line of Royal, Carlton, and Regent Terraces, round the long eastern skirt of Calton Hill, to the Regent Road at the High School, enjoying a delightful view of successively the Frith of Forth, the coast of East Lothian, the Queen's Park, and the Old Town, horizoned by the Pentland Hills, 286

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