DUNGLASS DEAN-DUNBAR.

the Tudor style, with appurtenances suitable to its position, nearly midway between Berwick and Edinburgh. The chief inns are the Railway Tavern and the St. George. The town has a large weekly market, and carries on a variety of manufactures. It contains three banking offices, a suite of assembly rooms, a reading-room, a public library, and a mechanics' institution. It unites with Haddington and three other burghs in sending a member to Parliament. Its population in 1851 was 3038.

men, but got possession of it only through | was reduced to ruin in 1859 by fire. The his victory over the Scottish army on the railway station is a large structure in neighbouring battle-field. Edward II., after his defeat at Bannockburn, sought refuge in it, and sailed from it to Berwick. The ninth Earl of Dunbar dismantled it, to keep it from being of service to the English, but was compelled by Edward III. to reconstruct it. Often was it bravely defended against brave beleaguerment, but never more so than by one of its countesses, called Black Agnes, in 1337, against the Earl of Salisbury. On the forfeiture of the Earls of Dunbar and March it passed to the Crown, and became occasionally a royal residence. The Queen Dowager of James I. died in it in 1446. The Duke of Albany twice used it in his conflicts with the Crown. Queen Mary was four times in it, variously as a visitor, as a refugee, and as a prisoner. Long was it an object of jealousy to the liberal ascendencies in the State; and at length, in 1567, by order of Parliament, it was demolished.

15. BELHAVEN is a village at the head of a small bay, about a mile west of Dunbar. It is frequented as a watering-place; and it once had a medicinal well, which has passed into neglect. It gives the title of Baron, in the peerage of Scotland, to a branch of the family of Hamilton. Its population is about 380. 16. TYNINGHAME Bay and Park,the former a small estuary at the mouth of Tyne Water, the latter a great expanse of wooded ground on the bay's north side,-look charmingly in the view from the railway. Tyninghame House, within the park, about one-fourth of a mile from the bay, is a large mansion in the old English style, the seat of the Earl of Haddington. Tyninghame village adjoins the park, 54 miles west-north-west of Dunbar, and has a post office under Prestonkirk, and about 270 inhabitants. 17. BIEL is the seat of R. D. C. Hamilton Nisbet, Esq., with magnificent

Dunbar contains one principal street, spacious and pleasant, and two smaller streets parallel to the principal one. Its harbour, though situated on a rocky coast, and ranking only as a creek of Leith, has been provided, at much expense, with considerable artificial accommodations, and is reckoned an important place of refuge for vessels between Leith Roads and the English Tyne. The Parish Church is a large, conspicuous, elegant Gothic edifice, built in 1821, with a tower 108 feet high, and serves as a land-pleasure-grounds, on Biel Burn, about 1} mark to mariners. A grand monument, 12 feet broad and 26 feet high, stands behind its pulpit, to the memory of George Home, Earl of Dunbar. Dunbar House, at the north end of the town, an edifice with elegant façade, formerly a seat of the Earl of Lauderdale, was purchased in 1859 by Government, and is now a barrack. Lochend House, in the western vicinity, a handsome mansion, the seat of Sir John Warrender, Bart.

mile to the left of the railway, 4 miles west of Dunbar. The grounds contain an artificial sheet of water, called Presmennan Lake, formed by the erection of a breast-work across the foot of a deep ravine. The lake has a serpentine outline, is fringed with walks and woods, and composes a scene so lovely as to have been compared to some of the finest reaches of the Rhine. The grounds are accessible to strangers.

TYNE WATER-TRANENT.

7

18. TYNE WATER bisects all East- | George Heriot, the founder of the hospiLothian in a north-easterly direction, tal at Edinburgh, and the scene of the and has a total course of about 28 miles. ministry of Dr. Robertson, at the time Its banks, for the most part, have a when he was writing his "History of champaign character, rich in the beauties Scotland," is 2 miles to the south-east. of farm and mansion, but without any bold or striking features. Its waters are famous for superior quality of trout; but, excepting occasional reaches, seldom exceeding a few hundred yards, they are all rigidly preserved. Its salmon fisheries belong to the Earl of Had-ranked among the most powerful nobles dington.

22. SEATON HOUSE, 24 miles westsouth-west of Longniddry, is a castellated mansion, built about the year 1770, on the site of Seaton Palace, the seat of the Earls of Winton. These earls sprang

from a nephew of Robert Bruce, and

of Scotland. They were Lords Seaton 19. LINTON village adjoins the Rail- from the 14th century, and Lords Traway Station, on the left bank of Tyne nent and Earls of Winton from 1600. Water; and Prestonkirk hamlet stands The fifth earl took part in the rebellion about half a mile beyond. Prestonkirk of 1715, and was attainted in the followhas a key post office and a parish church. ing year. The palace was erected in the Linton takes its name from a linn or pool reign of James VI. It excelled in eleat the foot of a rapid on the Tyne. It gance every mansion of its own age, or has a post office under Prestonkirk, an of the next century; and it gave enteroffice of the National Bank, and about tainment to James VI. and Charles I. on 800 inhabitants. Hailes Castle, a ruined occasion of their progress through Scottemporary residence of Queen Mary, land; but not a vestige of it now restands 1 mile to the south-west. Smea- mains. A collegiate church stood near it, ton, the seat of Sir T. B. Hepburn, Bart., -a handsome Gothic edifice, with a spire, is 13 mile to the north. -richly endowed by the earls, and containing their monuments; and the walls and ancient roof of this are still entire. St. Germains, the seat of David Anderson, Esq., on the site of an establishment of the Knights Templars, is about a mile to the east.

20. DREM village, adjacent to the junction of the branch railway to North Berwick, is a small place, but has a key post office, and dates from remote antiquity. It contains a priest's house and part of a chapel which belonged to the Knights Templars; and in its neighbourhood are vestiges of a fortified town of the ancient Caledonians.

21. LONGNIDDRY village, a little beyond the junction of the branch railway to Haddington, has a post office under Prestonpans, and about 220 inhabitants. Slight vestiges exist of the residence of the Douglases of Longniddry, who figured prominently in the Reformation. The ruins of an ancient chapel, in which John Knox occasionally preached, and which bears the name of John Knox's Kirk, stand a little to the east. Gosford House, the seat of the Earl of Wemyss, stands on the coast, 13 mile to the north. Gladsmuir village, the birth-place of

23. TRANENT stands along the brow of a rising ground, about a mile from Prestonpans Station. A branch of the railway goes up to it, but is used chiefly for mineral traffic. Coal mines in this neighbourhood were among the earliest worked in Scotland, and are still in operation. The town appears on record, under the name of Travernent, so early as the 12th century. It now presents an irregular, straggling, inferior appearance, and is inhabited chiefly by miners, artificers, and farm-labourers. It has a key post office, an inn, and an office of the City of Glasgow Bank. Its population in 1851 was 2096. Stiell's Hospital, an edifice erected in 1821, for

8

PRESTONPANS-MUSSELBURGH.

the free education of boys and girls, after | dental fire.
the manner of the Heriot schools in Edin-
burgh, by bequest of a native of Tra-
nent, is situated about half a mile to the
north.

24. PRESTONPANS stands along the
coast, half a mile north of the railway
station. It is about a mile in length, but
consists chiefly of a single crooked street,
and has a poor appearance.
Its popu-
lation is upwards of 1800.
The sea-
port villages of Cockenzie and Port Sea-
ton are about a mile to the north-east,
and the harbour of Morison's Haven
about 5 furlongs to the south-west. Pres-
tonpans, and other places in its neigh-
bourhood, took the name of Preston, or
Priests' Town, from being the property
of the monks of Newbattle. These priests
had a seat of trade at Prestongrange, and
carried on here a great business in the
mining of coal and the making of salt.
Prestonpans and the neighbouring vil-
lages long produced all the salt consumed
in the east of Scotland. A number of the
deserted salt-works still exist, and give
a rueful feature to the scenery of the
shore. The town's chief employment in
recent times is the fishing and exporting
of oysters. These are in high demand
for their superior quality; and having
formerly been taken in the near vicinity
of the salt pans, they got the whimsical
name of Pan-door or Pandore oysters.
Sir Walter Scott sojourned some time in
1777 at Prestonpans, and must then
have noted the localities around it, which
he touches so graphically in his novel of
'Waverley."

66

The battle of Prestonpans, on the 21st September 1745, between Prince Charles Edward and Sir John Cope, was fought on ground between Prestonpans and Tranent. Bankton House, the residence of Colonel Gardiner, who fell so nobly in a vain effort to retrieve the fortune of the day, stands at the south-western verge of the battle field, on a spot a little to the east of the railway station; but its interior was destroyed a few years ago by acci

The colonel was interred at

the west end of Tranent Church; and a monument to him was erected in 1854, near his death-place. Prestongrange, the ancient business centre of the monks of New battle, is now the property and seat of Sir G. G. Suttie, Bart. Preston Tower, in the north-eastern vicinity of Prestonpans, is the keep of an ancient fortalice, originally an outpost of the Earls of Home, afterwards the seat of the Hamiltons of Preston, twice burnt by the English, and now the property of Sir W. Hamilton, Bart. Schaw's Hospital, in the same neighbourhood, is a Tudor edifice of 1831, built for the maintenance and education of boys.

25. INVERESK stands on a rising ground on the right side of Esk Water, half a mile north-north-west of Inveresk Station. It is a southern suburb of Musselburgh, and has about 300 inhabitants. It contains fine villas, commands charming views, and is sheltered and environed with ornamental wood. A large Parish Church in it occupies the site of a Roman fort, and lifts into extensive view a beautiful, lofty steeple. The battle-field of Pinkie, the scene of the defeat of the Scottish army in 1547, lies about a mile to the north-east. Falside, the scene of a disastrous skirmish on the day previous to the defeat, and Falside Castle, an ancient, strong fortress of the Earls of Winton, are about 2 miles to the east. Carberry Hill, where Queen Mary, in 1567, surrendered to the insurgent nobles, is 2 miles to the south-east.

26. MUSSELBURGH is a post town, a sea-port, and a parliamentary burgh. It stands on both sides of the Esk; but the part on the left side bears the separate name of Fisherrow. The environs are beautiful, and abound with mansions and villas. The town comprises several spacious streets, besides a number of lanes and alleys, and presents a well-built, pleasant, urban appearance. The Town Hall, in High Street, contains an assembly room, and adjoins a renovated old tol

THE RIVER ESK-PORTOBELLO.

booth, with a small, curious, ancient | large portion of Cromwell's army lay en

camped on it during nearly two months of 1650. A railway terminus in the upper part of the town gives communication direct to Edinburgh by a branch across the Esk to a junction with the North British Railway east of Portobello. The chief inn is the Musselburgh Arms. The town has two banking offices, a public reading-room, and a subscription library. It unites with Portobello and Leith in sending a member to Parliament. Its population in 1851 was 7092.

steeple. A handsome stone bridge of five elliptic arches, erected in 1807, forms the main road communication across the Esk; and an ancient stone bridge, higher up, is supposed to have been built by the Romans, and is now used only by pedestrians. A handsome monument to the memory of the poet Dr. Moir, erected in 1853, stands adjacent to the principal bridge, and comprises a statue 8 feet high, on a pedestal 20 feet high. A house in the vicinity of the monument is pointed out as that in which Dr. Smollet was received by Commissioner Cardonell. An- 27. THE RIVER ESK is formed by other house which stood at the east end the confluence of the North Esk and the of High Street, but was removed about South Esk in Dalkeith Park; and it runs the year 1809, was the death-place of 3 miles northward thence along a lovely King Robert Bruce's companion, the Earl vale to the sea. Both the North Esk of Moray. A famous chapel and hermi- and the South Esk rise among the Moortage, dedicated to Our Lady of Loretto, foot Hills, within the border of Peeblesanciently stood in the eastern outskirt, and shire; and the former runs 16 miles made a great figure in the Roman Catholic north-north-eastward, the latter 13 miles times. Pinkie House, in the same out-northward, to their confluence. The skirt, now the seat of Sir Archibald North Esk is famous for the beauty of Hope, Bart., a large structure of various its dell, over great part of its course dates, was originally a mansion of the from Habbie's Howe to Dalkeith; and Abbots of Dunfermline. New Hailes, the South Esk also traverses scenes of about half a mile west of Fisherrow, much beauty. The upper waters of both now the property of Lady Ferguson, afford good sport to anglers; but the was the residence of the distinguished middle and the lower waters have been historian and antiquary, Sir David Dal- much destroyed by factories. rymple, Lord Hailes; and a column stands on the grounds, in the vicinity of the mansion, to the memory of the great Earl of Stair.

A fine piece of downs, called Musselburgh Links, lies between the eastern part of the town and the shore. This contains an oval race-course of about 2400 yards in circumference, where races of great note are run in autumn; and it was much used in old times for the practice of archery, and is used now for golfing, for gymnastic games, and as a public promenade. A vast body of Covenanters assembled on it in 1638, to make a show of moral force at the advance of the representative of Charles I. to set up Episcopacy in Scotland; and a

28. PORTOBELLO is a parliamentary burgh, and a fashionable watering-place. It stands along the coast, in full view from the railway station. It is modern, regularly aligned, well-built, airy, and pleasant. Its length is nearly a mile; its greatest breadth about 350 yards. The beach contiguous to it is very fine bathing ground. Much space within the town and in the outskirts is disposed in villa-plots and gardens; and many of the houses are let as lodgings to summer visitors. The town has a post office under Edinburgh, an office of the Royal Bank, a public hall, and a suite of hot and cold baths. Omnibuses run from its centre many times a-day to Edinburgh. Its population in 1851 was 3497.