1016. CRAIGIEBARNS, in the nor- | Garry, 4 miles below Loch Tummel. thern vicinity of Dunkeld, rises to the altitude of about 1000 feet; exhibits remarkable diversity and force of both natural and artificial feature; is intersected in all directions by beautiful and romantic walks; gives to view a grotto, a rocking-stone, and a rich series of picturesque close scenes; and commands from its open parts a sweep of magnificent prospects. The King's Pass, between Craigiebarns and another large, rocky, wood-clad hill, called the King's Seat, vies in grandeur with the Pass of Birnam, and offers tempting subjects for the pencil. The view of Strathtay, which opens beyond the pass, 21⁄2 miles from Dunkeld, is singularly brilliant. The Duchess of Athole's model farm of St. Colme's, a mile further on, shows an imposing suite of buildings.

1017. DOWALLY village was the site of a Culdee cell; boasts two old stones which claim to be Druidical; and has a parish church of 1818, with a pair of jougs, the old Scottish substitute for a pillory, at its door. Loch Ordie, a sheet of water about a mile in circumference, lying two miles to the east, is celebrated for its trout.

1018. THE RIVER TUMMEL rises in the vicinity of King's House, at the western extremity of the Moor of Rannoch; runs eastward through Lochs Lydoch, Rannoch, and Tummel; and describes thence a demi-semi-circle, with convexity north-eastward, to the Tay at Logierait; but it is called the Gauer downward to Loch Rannoch, the Rannoch thence to Loch Tummel, and the Tummel only from Loch Tummel to the Tay. Its chief tributaries are the Ericht, near the head of Loch Rannoch ; and the

Its length of course from the sources of the Gauer is 52 miles; and from the foot of Loch Tummel, 12 miles. Both its volume and its basin might entitle it to dispute with the Tay the claim of being the parent river. Its reach from Loch Tummel to within a mile of the Garry traverses a gorgy, romantic, alpine glen, and displays a series of rapids and cataracts, terminating in a grand fall of 18 feet; and its reach thence to the Tay traverses a wider glen, with softer screens, and displays a steady, stately current, gemmed with numerous pretty islets. Its cataracts and its fall, though not closely on the route from Dunkeld to BlairAthole, lie within a mile or two of either the new bridge above Pitlochrie or Garry bridge above Faskally; and they form one of the grandest attractions of their class in the kingdom. Mrs. Brunton, speaking of them, calls the Tummel the

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stream of her affection,-of all rivers the most truly Highland,-impetuous, melancholy, and romantic, — foaming among the fragments that have fallen from mountains which seem to have been cleft for its course." And Dr. Macculloch says respecting the fall, "It is a peculiar and a rare merit in it that it is beautiful in itself, and almost without the aid of its accompaniments. Though the water breaks white almost throughout, the forms are so graceful, so varied, and so well marked, that we can look at it long without being wearied by monotony, and without attending to the surrounding landscape. Whether low or full,-whether the river glides transparent over the rocks to burst in foam below, or whether it descends like a torrent of snow from the very edge,—this fall is

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MOULINEARN-THE PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE.

always various and always graceful. The immediate accompaniments are, however, no less beautiful and appropriate; and the general landscape is at the same time rich and romantic-nothing being left to desire to render this one of the most brilliant scenes which our country produces." A few salmon surmount the fall, and numerous smolts occur above; but the trout of the river are neither large nor prime.

confluence of the Tummel and the Garry, and forms the approach to the Pass of Killiecrankie.

1021. GARRY WATER gathers headstreams among the Central Grampians; collects them into Loch Garry, near the south side of the public road, 6 miles west-north-west of Dalnacardoch; and runs thence south-eastward, past BlairAthole, and through the Pass of Killiecrankie, to the Tummel. Its length of 1019. MOULINEARN Inn has long course is 30 miles. Its chief tributaries been noted, especially since the time of are the Erochkie on the right, and the Sheridan's visit to it, for its "Athole Bruar and the Tilt on the left. Loch brose." The scenery which had hitherto Garry is a wild sheet of water, 4 miles been open vale, here changes to High- long and half a mile broad, screened all land glen, but still continues to be beau- round by bare, lofty, rugged mountains. tiful. Tullymet House, a little below, The stream itself has long a similar chais the seat of William Dick, Esq., son of racter to the lake, but afterwards reMajor-General Sir Robert H. Dick, who joices among woods, between changeful fell at the victory of Sobraon. Ballyou- flanks of every variety, from the beautikan, Croftinloan, Donavourd, and Edra- ful to the sublime. Its current, over an dour, on the same side, between Moulin-aggregate of many miles, makes a freearn and Pitlochrie, are the properties of quent series of rapids, cataracts, and casrespectively Archibald Butter, Esq., Cap-cades; and, almost everywhere, in times tain Jack Murray, Captain R. Macfar- of freshet, is terrifically furious. The lane, and the Duke of Athole; and Dun- trout of the loch are good, while those of fallandy and Middlehaugh, on the other the stream are small. Grilses and seaside, are the seats of respectively the trout ascend to the influx of the Tilt. Misses Ferguson and J. M. Ferguson, Esq. A picturesque fall of about 120 feet, called the Black Spout, occurs a short distance from the road, on the Burn of Edradour.

1022. THE PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE, in a strict sense, is about half a mile long; in a looser sense, 2 miles. It plunges to the river in deep, precipitous chasm; rises steeply aloft in high, wooded acclivities; and is alto

1020. PITLOCHRIE contains a key post office, an excellent hotel, three bank-gether so narrow and choking as to look ing offices, and about 310 inhabitants. Moulin village, about a mile north-east of it, has a parish church of 1831, a curious ruined castle of the 12th century, and about 200 inhabitants. Benvracky, 2 miles north-east of Moulin, rises to an altitude of about 2800 feet, and commands a view from the Central Grampians to Arthur's Seat, and from Benmacdhu to Ben-nevis. A romantic contraction of the glen, around the houses of Cluny and Faskally, the seats of J. Butter, Esq., and A. Butter, Esq., 2 miles above Pitlochrie, embosoms the

utterly impervious. The ancient track through it was all a perilous foot-path; and the present excellent carriage-road was cut along the face of one of its flanks. A piece of rough vale ground immediately above it was the field of battle, in July 1689, between General Mackay and Viscount Dundee; and a rude stone, near the road, below Urrard House, marks the spot where the battle was decided. Dundee fell in front of Urrard House, and was carried into it; and he was interred in the vault of the old church of BlairAthole. Urrard House is the seat of

GLENTILT--THE GRAMPIANS.

a mile further on, is the seat of J. P. M'Inroy, Esq.; and Killiecrankie Cottage, Strathgarry, and Shierglass, on the other side of the river, are the seats of respectively Mrs. Hay, Mrs. Colonel Stewart, and Major M'Inroy.

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Captain B. Boxer Stewart,; Lude House, | feudal wars,—a centre of power among the clans, a fastness of the Marquis of Montrose, stormed and taken by Cromwell, the head quarters of the Viscount Dundee prior to the battle of Killiecrankie, and an object of strife during the rebellion of 1745. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert spent three weeks in it in the autumn of 1854. The grounds connected with it are of great extent, and richly attractive; and the circumjacent scenery is a glorious mixture of beauty, romance, and alpine grandeur.

1023. GLENTILT commences among the Central Grampians, adjacent to the sources of the Dee, and brings down Tilt Water 15 miles south-westward to the Garry at Bridge of Tilt, between Lude House and Blair Athole. Its head is engirt by summits of from 3350 to 3589 feet of altitude above the level of the sea; and its left flank is mainly formed by Benygloe, rising from a vast base to a group of summits, with a central altitude of 3725 feet. The whole glen, down to near its mouth, is alpine, `deep, and narrow. Its bottom is swept furiously by the Tilt, and its sides are scored with hundreds of torrents and leaping rills. Its upper half is bare, wild, awful ravine,-" a uniform, deep, straight section among mountains,—a | ditch to guard and separate a world ;" while the lower half displays rolled and intricated flanks, richly clothed with wood, and opens to Strathgarry in a blaze of grandeur. The rocks of the glen include some fine marbles, and have drawn much attention from geologists. Fender Burn, descending 5 miles from Benygloe to the lowest reach of the Tilt, makes three picturesque falls, the first about a mile from its mouth, the third at its union with the Tilt.

1025. BRUAR WATER rises near the summit-line of the Central Grampians, and goes 10 miles southward to the Garry, 3 miles west of Blair-Athole. It makes an enormous descent in the lower part of its course, and achieves three series of striking falls in the near vicinity of the public road. The scene of the falls is a deep, mural, shelving ravine, bridged in parts by natural arches, overhung in parts by impending rocks, and tufted on shelves and crests by planted wood. The principal series of falls, and the highest, consists of three parts, with an aggregate descent of about 200 feet; the next, half a mile further down, makes a leap of nearly 50 feet; and the lowest is a succession of cascades, nowhere making a single leap of more than 12 feet. The flanking rocks were naturally bare, and the wood which now adorns them was planted in compliance with the well-known petition of the poet Burns. Queen Victoria visited the falls during her sojourn at Blair-Athole, and was drawn up the greater part of the pathway to the top in her garden chair.

1024. BLAIR-ATHOLE village has a key post office, an excellent hotel, and a Parish Church. Bridge of Tilt village, 1026. THE GRAMPIANS are so very within half a mile of it, has also an ex-variously understood, both in conversacellent hotel, and is near a finely-situated tion and in writings, as to defy definition; Episcopal Church. Blair Castle, the but they may be loosely described as comseat of the Duke of Athole, on an emi-prehending all the mountains north of nence between Blair-Athole and the the Frith of Clyde, east of Lorn, and Garry, is partly an ancient fortalice of south of the Great Glen. The grandest much strength, partly a commodious chain of them, often called the Central modern mansion. It was a post of great Grampians, extends eastward from Benimportance in the times of the civil and nevis

to Kincardineshire. Another

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BONSKEID-TUMMEL BRIDGE.

grand chain goes off at right angles from | shire, and looks like an alpine barrier

confronting the Lowlands. The great range of the Central Grampians culminates around the sources of the Bruar and the Dee, and is called there, over its

the preceding at Rannoch, and extends southward to Benlomond. A third great series, but not a continuous one, flanks the Strathmore chain of valleys north-eastward from Benlomond to Kincardine- southern declivities, the Forest of Athole.

famed among anglers for trout of from 1 to 10 pounds, better shaped and better flavoured than those of Loch Leven; and it lies under no restrictions for the rod. Portnellan, near its west end, is the seat of Mr. M'Diarmid; and Foss, on the left side of the Tummel, 11⁄2 mile further west, is the seat of Sir Robert Menzies, Bart.

1027. BONSKEID, the seat of George | tains vestiges of an ancient fortalice of F. Barbour, Esq., is situated among Robertson of Struan. Loch Tummel is grandly wild scenery adjacent to the Falls of Tummel. The Vale of Fincastle, opening a little beyond it, and traversed by a streamlet of 4 miles to the Tummel, contains Fincastle House, the seat of J. Colquhoun, Esq., and the ruins of no fewer than fifteen ancient castles. Allean House, on the left side of the Tummel, further up, is the seat of J. L. Hodgson, Esq.; and Duntaulich, on the right side, at the foot of Loch Tummel, is the seat of Mr. Butter.

1028. LOCH TUMMEL is 3 miles long, and nearly 1 mile broad. Its banks are diversified with baylets and small headlands, and rise gently from the water; its flanks are skirted with wood and verdure, and rise into broad, lofty, undulating ridges; and its sky-line includes Benvracky, Schichallion, and the mountains of Lochaber. A grand view of it, probably the best, bursts upon the eye a short distance before reaching its east end in the course of our route. An artificial wooded islet, near its head, con

1029. TUMMEL BRIDGE, at the intersection of the road from Pitlochrie to Loch Rannoch with the road from Kenmore to Dalnacardoch, has a good inn, and a Free Church, and is a resort of anglers. The scenery around it is mountainous, bold, and gloomy; but it changes to a gayer character 3 miles further west, at Mount Alexander. This was formerly Dun Alister, the seat of the Robertsons of Struan; and here Struan Robertson, one of the proprietors, a wellknown poet, wrote many of his most admired pieces. The present mansion of Mount Alexander, a seat of General Sir J. Macdonald, is an elegant modern edi