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5000 inhabitants. The tinkle tonkle chimes of the town-clock were very melodious. Here we went to vespers. The organ was not used, but the chanting was accompanied by the braying of a huge serpent. Our Inn was the Golden Lion. The legal charge of a postillion is 15 sous per post, but they always expect double. I had paid the postillion for a post and a half, and instead of 224 sous, which he would have been entitled to, or 45, which is double, I gave bim 2 francs or 50 sous. He began to grumble. My companion said to him, "Why are you not content?” He said, “I am content, but the English always pay 10 sous per post."“What reason can you give for de manding more of the English than of other people?"-" O, I make no demand.-1 thank you, and wish you 'bon voyage'." On the road between Bethune and Douay, in an open country, there was erected on the road side a pillar recording that on that spot on the 20th April, 1815, a young man was killed by lightning. In passing through a village, we saw a dozen young women dancing in a ring, and singing. White gowns and finery have not here made their way into the country, and these young women were so homely and prudently habited, that if a committee of our gravest matrons had had the ordering of their apparel, it could not have been more suitable. I should also add that they had no male partners; the young men were amusing themselves with playing at ball; and the young women were dancing, from what the French call gaieté de cœur. Our Inn at Douay, the Hotel de Versailles, was a dirty one, though the beds (as usual) were clean. At the table d'hôte at supper, we were joined by an Englishman who frequently visits this country. He travels with his own horse and gig, which he finds a cheap plan; as the charges for corn and hay are moderate. He says, it is necessary that a traveller with a horse should in general be his own groom; as an English horse will otherwise suffer for the want of English attention. Last year he brought his wife and daughter; his youngest daughter who speaks French well, acted as interpreter. He says the French are extremely flattered by an Englishman's attempts to acquire their lan

guage, and to become acquainted with them; and unbounded in their civility to English ladies. The landlord, a heavy gross fellow, came to the table d'hôte without his coat, and with his arms bare; and drank wine with a Frenchman. The waiter who stood behind, always partook with them.

August 3.-Our Inn is situated in the Grand Place or market place, a spacious and handsome square. I rose early and went to the Cathedral, which is a modern building and contains nothing remarkable. In a Gothic parish church, there was a notice affixed that the Sacrament would be exposed (exposée) the three following days, from six in the morning till vespers, and a 40 days indulgence would be granted to those who should resort thither, and adore it half an hour. Prayers were desired for a Canon of Cambrai, who died on the 30th July, and the notice concluded, Un "de Profundis," s'il vous plâit. There is a very pleasant walk on the ramparts round the town.' This morning at breakfast at the table d'hôte we had several Frenchmen.

In the Inn-yard, the waiter grilled veal cutlets on a pan of coals, which were afterwards brought to table, and eaten by the Frenchmen with claret for breakfast. At nine we went to mass at the Cathedral. The Altar was superbly ornamented and surrounded with laurel trees; four large arms with extended hands were placed on the Altar. The Priests' gowns were very splendid, and whenever they had occasion to sit down, their hoods were lifted up by singing boys, that they might not be sat upon. The Priests (about 20 in number) chanted the mass in canto fermo. The organ, which stands at the West end of the nave, accompanied. This is, I think, the most powerful and complete organ I ever heard, and it was excellently played. The effect was very striking. The music and the stops were perpetually chauging, from the lightest opera style to the most slow and pathetic passages. In the belfrey tower (which in this and most towns is either a part of the Maison de Ville, or else a distinct building), there were two immense bells, each of which in succession strikes the hour; and they repeat it at the half bour. The road from Douay to Cambrai is in general flat,

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Tour in France, in 1818.

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and contains nothing remarkable. At Douay there was formerly an English College, at which and were educated; it is now converted into a cotton manufactory. We left Douay for Cambrai about eleven, and arrived at Cambrai at two. Here we found John Bull lord of the ascendant. The fortifications and gates are guarded by British soldiers. There are three regiments in Cambrai, and two in the camps close at the outside of the walls. Two of these, the grenadier guards, are remarkably fine men. The day was warm; the thermometer about 73. We walked to see the camp. The tents are small, and the men sleep on straw mattrasses on the ground. In bad weather it must be extremely disagreeable. This is the head quarters of the army. Lord Wellington and Lord Hill have country houses in the neighbourhood. Lord Hill has also handsome apartments in the town, at the house of Madame Canonne, Fabricant de Batistes, Rue de l'Epée, No. 330, where, upon the recommendation of our landlady, we purchased some excellent Cambric, at 16 francs per ell, above five quarters of a yard English measure. Our inn, the Hotel Hollandois, was a comfortable one, and we were treated with the utmost civility and attention by landlord, landlady, and waiters. It is a quiet retired house; not at all frequented by any of the English officers, many of whom dine at a coffee-house kept by an Englishman from Bath. This has been a very handsome town; the Grund Place is a noble one: but Cambrai has lost its great ornament, a venerable Gothic Cathedral, which was not only plundered at the Revolution, but totally demolished, so that not even its ruins are left: what is worse, a Theatre is erected on the site of it. The tomb of Archbishop Fenelon is also demolished, and his remains disturbed. Our English "Traveller's Guide" having asserted that his remains were removed at the period of the demolition, to the Chapel of the Hospital for poor girls, we had the curiosity to go thither and inquire. The Portress shewed us the Chapel, but we could gather from her Do intelligence as to the Archbishop's remains. A lady, however, came to us, who appeared to be the superintendant, and she informed us that the

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wooden coffin of Fenelon was deposited in an apartment of the Hospital, which was at that moment occupied, but would be at liberty to be seen in a few hours. Our curiosity was, however, satisfied with this information. It seems somewhat extraordinary that the good people who have shewn their respect for the Archbishop by preserving his remains, should be Content without depositing them in consecrated ground ; and should keep them in a private apartment unburied; and further, that if the identity of the coffin is satisfactorily made out, the Government should not interest itself in having the body decently interred, and a proper monument erected in the Abbey Church, which is now used as the Cathedral. To neglect so great a man is a disgrace to the nation *. The Chapel of the above Hospital is now used for the English soldiers. The Roman Catholic altar is removed, and a Protestant readingdesk and pulpit are erected. This seems an instance of liberality, or else of indifference, on the part of the Roman Catholics here. There is not a Gothic church in Cambrai.

August 4.This morning before breakfast I went to mass at the Ca. thedral, where between 2 and 300 boys were present; from their manner of holding their books they seemed to have been taught in the Bellian or Lancasterian system. There is nothing remarkable in the building, except some paintings to imitate bas relief, which have a happy effect. At our inn the floors both of lodging rooms and sitting rooms were of glazed tiles. About eleven we set off by Bonavy, a walled town, to Peronne. The day was intensely hot, the thermometer in the shade 82 at four o'clock. Not a cloud to be seen. Occasionally on the road-side there were extended on crosses, naked figures as large as life, and painted a flesh colour, representing our Saviour. This is quite horrible and

We have the pleasure to inform our Readers, that since our Correspondent's visit to Cambrai, the circumstance which he notices has engaged public attention. The Journal de Paris of the 18th ult. aunounces that a Subscription is set ou foot in Cambrai, for a monument to Archbishop Fenelon. The Duke of Angouleme has transmitted to the Mayor a contribu

tion of 1000 francs.

profane,

profane, and seems to be trifling with the most sacred things. Our English "Guide" informs us we travel over "a considerable chain of mountains in this route." The book has been compiled from a French account. The French use the word Montagne for the most insignificant hills; and hence the mistake. The hills were pretty much like those between Tadcaster and Leeds. Peronne is a good sized and fortified town, with spacious streets and good shops. Our dinner bill for two was 11 francs or 9s. 2d. being 48. 7d. each, and the dinner consisted of soup, boiled beef, veal steaks, peas, sallad, iced lemonade, and brandy, a bottle of excellent Burgundy, a dish of fresh butter, apricots, plumbs, and pears. The Church is a building in the modern Gothic style, with a pretty tower. In the inside we found a splendid roof something resembling King's Chapel, Cambridge, and a remarkable echo, which must peculiarly adapt it for music. We proceeded after dinner by Faucaucourt and Villers to Amiens.-There was a delay of half an hour at the last stage, as the postillion was with the reapers. The gleaners in this country are numerous, and seem to fare well. Owing to the delay it was after nine when we arrived here. We saw a splendid sunset, and a beautiful moonset, on the road. The country was like Salisbury Plain, only corn instead of pasture. Amiens Cathedral in the dusk appeared like Filey Church. As soon as we approached the gates of Amiens, which were open, we saw the sentinels shutting them in our faces, that we might pay half a franc to have them again opened. There was a meteoric ball of fire in the air in the West over Amiens about nine.

August 5, two p. m.—We have been exploring Amiens Cathedral, and were proceeding to look at the city, but were driven in at one o'clock, by the heat: the thermometer in the shade is at 86, and many of the houses are whitewashed and reflect the sun. I have written this with my coat off, and in a profuse perspiration; and feel not equal to the commencement of another sheet. X.

(To be continued.)

Mr. URBAN,
April 3.
HE Memoir of the Duke of Berri,

Twhich you have inserted in p. 273,

having been adopted by you, calls for some observations, and must have them. It is evidently written by a Frenchman, and was no doubt copied by you from a French paper.

After the generous, the noble manner in which the Duke was received in this country, the only part of Europe, as the writer admits, in which a Bourbon could find an asylum, it was natural to expect that some acknowledgment would have been made,something like gratitude expressed; in vain you may look for any thing like it. "The Duke was under the necessity of becoming a sojourner in England;" "the Prince passed several years in London, whence he was in the habit of making frequent journeys to Hartwell." These are all the words respecting his hospitable reception in this country. What return he made to Englishmen who visited France after the re-establishment of the Bourbons, is known to many.

After his return to France, whether he moderated the rigour of his orders by the kindness of his manner to the soldiers, we here can have nothing to judge by but mere rumour ;

that rumour is not in favour of the kindness of his manner: and if we may form a guess at the kindness of the manner from the story which his French eulogist next tells us, we can hardly suppose much kindness of manner to a common soldier from one who could treat an officer with the insolence here described: "during the period of his emigration," says his eulogist, "he happened one day to reprimand too severely an officer full of honour. In a moment, perceiving his error, the young Prince took the gentleman aside." What followed? he said, "It was never my intention to insult a man of honour. I am like yourself a French gentleman, and am ready to give you all the reparation you may demand."-That is, it is true I have insulted you, and I am ready to accept an invitation to take your life by way of making you

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