fire of 1666, which destroyed nearly the whole of the city. Next to St. Paul's Cathedral it is the most prominent object to the view, being a large shaft 202 feet in height, surmounted with a blazing urn of gilt brass, which serves as a kind of beacon to guide the steps of the stranger while wending his way through the east end. It is of the fluted Doric order, with appropriate devices on the pedestal, emblematical of that fearful event, which marked an era in the history of the great metropolis. On one side is a bas-relief by Cibber, representing King Charles, surrounded by Liberty, Genius, and Science, giving directions for the restoration of the city; on the other side there are Latin inscriptions, descriptive of the destruction of the city, and the restoration. Within the column is a spiral staircase, of black marble, having three hundred and forty-five steps, by which the visitor can gain access to the iron balcony, from which a noble prospect is presented to the eye no where else to be seen. The wonders of nature are certainly objects of grandeur and sublimity well calculated to arouse the highest inspirations of the poet; but from this monumental pile is presented a scene far more interesting than any thing in nature. Here one looks down upon the dwellings of more than two millions of human beings, innumerable churches of every Christian denomination, with their spires and turrets pointing to the skies, seven bridges spanning the ever-flowing tide of the Thames, where float the masts of all nations. All these objects, and the contemplation of the various pursuits, occupations, and conditions of life in this little world, form an ensemble worthy of the greatest admiration.

Next to "The Monument," the Nelson Column in Trafalgar Square is most conspicuous as well as imposing. It is of the Corinthian order, and consists of a tall shaft placed on a square pedestal, and surmounted by a colossal statue of Nelson, having on its four sides bronze bas-reliefs of the hero's four principal engagements, viz., St. Vincent, Copenhagen, Nile, and Trafalgar. The design of the various figures is good, and the monument is every way worthy to commemorate the death of a man who rendered great service to his country, both at sea and on land.

The York Column, in St. James' Park, is also worthy of notice. It is a plain Doric structure, surmounted with a bronze statue of the Duke of York, representing him in a flowing robe, with a sword in

his right hand, and in his left the insignia of the Order of the Garter.

Besides these monuments there are many equestrian statues erected at different periods, to commemorate the deeds of public men, and among those of a recent date, that erected in honor of the Duke of Wellington attracts most attention. Just in front of Apsley House, the mansion of the Duke, in Green Park, there is a triumphal arch of the Corinthian order, forming an entrance from Piccadilly, and also one of the grand approaches to St. James' Park and Buckingham Palace. It is one of the most conspicuous and elegant structures in the city. On the principal front are four columns, supporting a portico, the arch itself being adorned with ivy Corinthian pilasters; the opposite front is nearly similar; in the centre there is a vaulting part, which is divided into richly carved compartments, and the gates, which are of beautifully bronzed iron work, are adorned with the royal arms. On the summit of this arch is placed a colossal bronze statue of the old Duke, which is so striking in its resemblance to the original that no man need inquire what it is.

This statue is situated near three of the most celebrated parks in the city, viz., St. James', Green and Hyde Parks; and from its summit you may see in the afternoon all the elegant establishments, fine horses, servants in livery, and fashionables, who drive in these favorite places, to breathe the pure air and enjoy the pleasure of gazing and being gazed upon with quizzing glasses, which are regarded here as utterly indispensable both with gentlemen and ladies. To a stranger who has nothing to occupy his time but sight-seeing, I would recommend a visit on a clear afternoon to Rotton Row in Hyde Park; and here he will see horsemen of every grade, vehicles of every description, and costumes as various as the climes which produce them, all together forming a scene of great attraction and amusement. The ladies of London are excellent horsewomen, and quite equal to our Western girls, although taught in different schools. They sit the horse beautifully, and manage the reins with perfect ease and grace, without the least exhibition of fear, being entirely independent of their beaux, who are, generally speaking, very sorry riders. The city of London is celebrated the world over for the number, extent, and beauty of its parks, which have very properly been termed the "lungs of the city;" for here the laboring classes,

who have no opportunity of seeking recreation in the country, can resort after the fatigue of the day, and inhale the pure air, which is so essential to health and comfort, and here also the children of the poorer classes are permitted to enjoy their sports without interruption.

In Hyde Park there are very many attractions calculated to interest the stranger. First and foremost is the Crystal Palace, now the great wonder of the world, about which you have been reading for the last year, and which continues to be resorted to by increased numbers daily. Indeed, it becomes more interesting to me every time I visit it, for it is very much like going into a large city with innumerable attractions--the longer you stay and the better you become acquainted with the geography of the place and the position of things, the more you appreciate it. New contributions from different countries are coming in every day, and in the course of a few more weeks, the Exhibition will be far more attractive than it was at the opening.

It is now Whitsuntide, and the laboring classes from every part of the kingdom are taking advantage of the holidays and the reduction of fare on the railroads, to visit the great Exhibition. Every train that arrives is filled even to the tops of the carriages with hundreds of persons who were never before out of sight of the smoke of their own chimneys, all eager to see the exhibition of their own labor compared with that of other countries.

From the Crystal Palace flows the Serpentine river, which is much resorted to during the summer months for the purpose of bathing. Vast numbers of persons assemble here on a Sunday, between the hours of two and six, chiefly on the north side from Piccadilly to Kensington Garden, where there is a beautiful promenade in view of the rich and luxuriant foliage of the trees and shrubbery, forming a lovely contrast to the immense pile of brick in the city. On the western extremity of the river there is a very elegant stone bridge, and also an artificial waterfall, which add much to the beauty of the stream. Near the river are two powder magazines; the great government store of gunpowder, in which are deposited upwards of one million rounds of ball and blank cartridges, ready for immediate. use. I think a more suitable place might be selected for the dangerous storehouse than in the midst of a populous city. Not far from Hyde Park are the beautiful grounds called Regent's Park,

which is one of the most atractive and agreeable places about London. It contains a variety of objects worthy of attention, such as the villas of the nobility and private gentlemen, the Zoological and pleasure gardens, winter gardens, and Royal Botanical Gardens; all of which places are pointed out by the citizens as well worth the stranger's examination.

From this park leads Regent street, one of the great thoroughfares of the city. It is much wider than the generality of streets, and is well built up, but falls far short of Broadway in point of activity or elegance. Indeed, I do not believe that any city in the world can produce on one street such a large number of elegant establishments, and such a scene of activity as are to be witnessed from the "buck tower" of the great American metropolis. The streets in the east end of London are narrow and tortuous, but well lighted and kept perfectly clean. Those in the west end, which are more modern, are laid out upon a more liberal scale, and present a more inviting appearance than the antique-looking portion of the old city. The police regulation is far superior to that of any city in the world; they are selected from the best men in the country, and are compelled to go through the same training as soldiers, in order to qualify them to discharge the arduous duties of their office with promptness and energy. The average strength of the London police is about five thousand, who are distributed into eighteen divisions, distinguished by different alphabetical letters, each being attached to a certain locality or district, in each of which is a station or rendezvous, from which point the duty is carried out. This admirable system was put into operation in 1830 by the late Sir Robert Peel, and has proved equal to his expectations in every particular-in a word, is perfect.

I cannot conclude this letter without alluding to a dinner party and soirée recently given by the Hon. Abbott Lawrence, at his residence in Piccadilly, which is said to have been one of the grandest banquets of the season. The guests at the dinner party were but few, consisting of some select friends among the nobility and several Americans. After the banquet in the evening, Mrs. Lawrence threw open her superb saloons for the reception of visitors, and in a few minutes they were occupied by guests from all nations. Nearly all the nobility were present, the corps diplomatique, and

many Americans, which constituted an assemblage of rare brilliancy. Mr. L. lives in excellent style and entertains well, being blessed with the wherewith, and that peculiar gift of nature, the suaviter in modo, which makes every one feel comfortable and at home. He is very particular in his attention to Americans, (who are very numerous at present,) and has acquired a degree of popularity among the nobility that rarely falls to the lot of a foreign minister. Among the distinguished guests of the evening was the Duke of Wellington, now the greatest man in Europe. He is very old and feeble, but yet retains some of that fire that burned so brilliantly in early life. He honored the company with his presence the greater part of the evening, and seemed to enjoy the society of Americans more than that of any other nation. He says that he admires the American people, and would visit our country if he were only a few years younger. Lord John Russell was also present, but so very small that he was not visible in the crowd more than once or twice during the evening. To look at him, you would never suppose that he was the Lord Premier of Great Britain, as there is nothing attractive either in his conversation or personal appearance. He still clings on to the Ministry, but there is no telling how long he will be retained. He is indebted to the great Exhibition for his retention in office, and it is supposed by the quid nuncs that as things fall back in the quiet channel, and the Exhibition fever subsides, a new ministry will be formed, and little John required to resign his office and its honors.

LETTER THIRTEEN.

CHESTER, England.

Departure from London-Railways and Stations-Agriculture in the Southern CountiesScenery on the banks of the Wye-Visit to the Hills of Great Malvern-The Cureall Establishment-The appearance of Chester, its Antiquity, etc.

AFTER a sojourn of some four or five weeks in the great metropolis of England, each day of which was occupied with some new scene of interest, we made our departure on the Great Western Railway, on a tour of pleasure to the counties bordering upon Wales. In pre