through a succession of locks to Motala on lake Wetter.

The canal between Lake Boren and Lake Wetter is cut out of the solid rock, and runs up a very steep ascent, the latter lake being much higher. These locks are wonderful works of art, that will ever redound to the honor of the engineer. The following day we crossed Lake Wenner, and visited the Polhem and Gullo Falls, situated a few hundred yards from the canal. These falls are but little known by European travellers, but are exceedingly beautiful, and far more interesting than the falls of the Rhine or Nile. At this point the canal descends through a great number of locks into the Hissengen. It is cut through solid rock, and very deep, giving it more the appearance of a tunnel than a canal.

We reached Gottenburg early the fourth day, and stopped at Blom's Hotel, which is the best in the city, but very poor. Soon after breakfast I received a visit from the two little daughters of the Baroness, and took a long walk with them through the public gardens. When I bade them adieu, they seemed much affected and cried bitterly. One is about ten and the other eight years of age, both beautiful and unusually intelligent. About two hours after the separation the servant returned with a present from one of them, with the message that I must not forget her when I returned to my far-off home. No, little Swede, I can never forget you! Often hereafter will I recur with pleasure to the time when I dandled you on my knee, and listened to the sweet tones of your voice. You are a child now, young in years, and with a mind and heart plastic to all surrounding influences. Time and other scenes will soon obliterate my memory, but in this heart I will ever cherish the few brief. days of love that you bestowed on me, and which older heads and hearts have denied.

Gottenburg is more devoid of sights than any place of its size in Europe. It is situated in a plain surrounded by hills. On the outskirts there is a very pretty avenue of trees, and a public garden, which are all that is worth looking at. The city looks old and dilapidated, the streets dull and inanimate, and the shops poorly furnished.

We were compelled to remain four days in that city, from which we came on a splendid iron steamer to Copenhagen. Pretty soon after our arrival we, as usual, inquired for the best point to view the

city, and were conducted by a valet-de-place to the summit of the Round Tower, a lofty brick structure near the centre of the city, which is attached to a church, and furnishes an admirable view. The Queen sometimes ascends this tower in a carriage drawn by four horses, but always walks down. I noticed in a little room on the summit a number of astronomical instruments, and infer therefrom that the tower is also used for an observatory. Close to the tower is the finest church in the city, called the Magdalene or Lady Church. The chief attractions in it are the colossal statues of Christ, the Virgin, and the twelve Apostles, by Thorwaldsen, the great Danish artist. The figure of Christ is represented with outstretched arms, and occupies a place above the altar. The Virgin has wings, and is kneeling on a carpet in front of the altar, holding in her hands a basin shaped like a shell, and the twelve Apostles are arranged on either side of the church in their order. These fourteen pieces are made out of the best Italian marble, and executed in the most beautiful manner.

From the church we visited the King's Palace, a massive and unprepossessing structure, resembling a barn more than a palace. In the third story there is a large collection of paintings of a negative character, and in the public square I noticed a bronze equestrian statue of Christian I., treading on the prostrate body of the King of Sweden, with four allegorical figures seated on each corner of the pedestal. Outside of the gate on the road leading to Fredericsburg is a tall obelisk erected by the peasants to Frederic VII. after he released them from bondage.

The most remarkable object in Copenhagen is Thorwaldsen's Museum. The building is square, with a court inside, and the exterior is ornamented with frescoes, representing boats bringing the artist's marble from Italy, and the people carrying the blocks to the museum, and the multitude gazing on the scene with expressions of astonishment. This museum contains all of the artist's models, but very few pieces in marble. The interior walls are ornamented with bas-reliefs in marble, some of which are very fine, especially a procession of figures representing the different vocations of life. His Eve I consider good, but inferior to some that I have seen in Italy. Near this museum is another of a different kind, belonging to a private gentleman. It is very extensive, and embraces curiosities

from Greenland, Iceland, Kamtschatka, South America, and China. I was particularly interested in the collection from Greenland, showing the costumes and customs of that far-off and remarkable race. Their clothes are well cut, and made of skins; their summer houses are also made of skins, in the shape of tents, and have the cellular tissue of animals for windows. Their cooking utensils are made of a soft kind of stone, and their beds are elevated about one foot from the ground. The collection of sleds, etc., from Greenland, is exceedingly interesting. In the collection from China we saw the likeness of the present Emperor and his wife, recently taken from life; also a great variety of curiosities no where else to be seen. Close to the museum is the Exchange, a very large building, surmounted with a sharp spiral steeple, and occupied principally with small shops; also a church with a staircase on the outside of the spire, leading to the summit.

About two miles from the city is the Frederic Park, one of the country seats of the King. The park is very handsome, but the palace is plain and much out of repair. On the road near the park are a number of neat cafés and gardens, where the people congregate in summer. Returning to the city, we stopped at a place called Tivoli, where there are all sorts of amusements, and where all classes meet. After walking about the gardens, gazing at the people, monkeys, parrots, etc., we sat down and listened to a very good concert, then tried our hand at shooting with an air gun, and took a ride on a railway so constructed as to run both up and down an inclined plane. I noticed at this place many peculiarities of dress amongst the peasantry. The women usually wear a green gown with a large red-figured border round the skirt, and sleeves made very large above the elbow. They wear on the head a handkerchief half folded, tied under the chin, and the other half hanging behind, or have a cap of gold or silver work, fitted on the back of the head. The men dress pretty much as they do in Germany, with roundapouts, large buttons, and large hats. From all I can see there exists no great difference between the Danes and Swedes, in appearance, manners, and customs.

LETTER SIXTY-NINE.

HANOVER.

Voyage from Copenhagen to Kiel-Hamburg-The Alster Basin-The Bourse-Trip to Hanover-The Theatre-Royal Palace-Waterloo Column, etc.

Ar Copenhagen we took passage on a splendid iron steamer belonging to a company in Lubec for Kiel in the Holstein. As we were coming out of the harbor I noticed four new yachts belonging to the English Royal Club. They were very handsomely fitted out, and were returning to London, one of them having won the cup in the regatta at St. Petersburg. During the day we ran close to the low coast of Denmark, and the following morning we were landed safely at Kiel, where we took the railroad for Hamburg. The country between the two places is rather flat, but in a high state of cultivation, and produces well. There is a great deal of bog land on the line, and seeing the peasantry cutting and piling up the peat, reminded me forcibly of my tour through the South of Ireland. Reached Hamburg, or Altona, its suburb, in three hours, and took apartments at one of the hotels on the Alster, in the new and most beautiful part of the city. The Alster is a large and splendid basin, covered with pleasure boats, fowls of nearly every description, and other objects pleasing to the eye. An avenue of trees extends entirely around it, forming a delightful shade over the promenade, on which pavilions and other places of public resort are erected. The hotels on the Alster are numerous, and far superior to any in Europe.

The most prominent object in the old part of the city is St. Michael's Church, from which can be obtained the best view of Hamburg and the surrounding country. It has one of the loftiest steeples in Europe, being four hundred and fifty feet in height, and used as the station of the fire watch. Every hour the watchman blows a trumpet from the windows to let the people know that he is vigilant.

Hamburg is situated about eighty miles from the mouth of the Elbe. It is one of the four remaining Free Towns, and is chiefly remarkable as the first trading seaport of Germany, being to the north what Trieste is to the south. It is intersected by canals, called Fleethen, (Fleet ditches,) and in this respect, in the antiquated

appearance of its houses in the old city, and in the trees growing in its streets, bears a resemblance to the towns in Holland. Four thousand vessels enter the port yearly, and more emigrants sail for the United States than from any other port, except Liverpool. It was once a fortified town, and was twice occupied by the French under Davoust in 1813. The ramparts no longer exist, being levelled and converted into delightful boulevards or gardens, neatly laid out, which extend nearly round the town and between the two Alster basins.

The Bourse of Hamburg is situated in the new part of the city on the Adolphs Platz, and is one of the largest and most convenient establishments of its kind on the Continent. One o'clock is the hour when the merchants assemble, at which time from five to six thousand may be seen on any day dealing in stocks. Near the Exchange is the Merchants' Bank, a very superb structure, with the vault under ground and covered with water. I noticed also in this neighborhood a building with an engraved front. The figures are engraved in the stone, and the effect is very fine.

At Hamburg we took a steamer for a small town above, where the railroad terminates, and reached Hanover in eight hours, passing through an undulating and highly cultivated country. The capital of this kingdom is situated in a plain on the Leine, a small stream, and has about forty-five thousand inhabitants. It does not present an imposing appearance at a distance, and there are but few objects within to attract the stranger. The new theatre, not yet finished, is a very large building, and externally the finest in Europe. The finest buildings are collected around a square called Waterloo Platz, which serves also as a parade ground. In the centre of this square is the Waterloo Column, one hundred and sixty-two feet high, surmounted by a figure of Victory, and inscribed with the names of the Hanoverians, privates as well as officers, who fell in that battle. On either side of it are extensive barracks. The Royal Palace is also on this platz, a very extensive building and well furnished. In the plate-room I noticed a collection of mediæval antiquities, relics, etc., some of them brought from Palestine by Henry the Lion, under the care of the Ober Hof-Commissar. In a small circular temple near the palace we saw Leibnitz's bust, much injured by persons throwing stones at it.