student to repair for repose. A small monument stands on the summit of Colonos to the memory of a German who died in Athens. From this classic retreat we returned to our hotel, and enjoyed the sweet strains of martial music in the public grounds. King Otho and the Queen were present, and we had the pleasure of seeing them on horseback, their favorite amusement.

The following day, Messrs. Delano, Sharp, Lynde, Johnstone, and myself started for the field of Marathon-an excursion of ten hours. We went in a carriage as far as the village of Kevisia, where we had horses to meet us. The road to Marathon passes through a hilly, barren, and uninteresting country. We approached the broad plain from Vrana, where we had an excellent view of Negropont, the sea, and the entire plain of Marathon. While gazing on this renowned spot, I was strongly reminded of my Greek Professor in the Nashville University, who endeavored to impress upon the class the dates of the two great battles of Marathon and Salamis. Every day the question was asked, and we invariably missed. At last we wrote them on the wall of the recitation room, where they can be seen, probably, to this day.

I little thought at that time that it would ever be my privilege to rove over a country hallowed by so many early associations. But here I am, and if Mr. C. should ever ask me again about the field of Marathon, I will take as much pleasure in describing it to him, as he did in impressing the dates. The mounds where the Persians, Athenians, and Miltiades were buried are still plainly visible. Sharp and myself had a race from Vrana to the tomb of the Athenians. His horse fell just before reaching the mound, and I won the champagne. The plain is very extensive, completely hemmed in on all sides by mountains, except the ocean side, and beautifully cultivated.

"The mountains look on Marathon

And Marathon looks on the sea;

And musing there an hour, alone,

I dreamed that Greece might still be free,
For standing on the Persians' grave,

I could not deem myself a slave.”

The same party visited Mount Pentelicus the next day. It is situated ten miles from Athens, and is 3,500 feet above the level of the sea. The road as far as the base of the mountain is very fine,

L

and even the ascent is good, and not at all difficult. The marble is beautifully white, and the principal quarry now worked half-way up the mountain. There are several others in different parts, all bearing marks of the work of the ancient Athenians. There is a grotto here, once used for a chapel; the altar and figures of our Saviour are still to be seen. The view from Pentelicus is very extensive, embracing the field of Marathon, Athens, the Acropolis of Corinth, Salamis, Negropont, and Parnassus. While we were on the mountain, a French war steamer was practising in the little harbor where the great battle of Salamis was fought. The smoke and fire of the guns could be seen distinctly, but we could not hear the report. As I stood gazing with my glass at the livid flames issuing from her guns, I was forcibly reminded of that celebrated engagement, the history of which I used to dwell upon with wonder and admiration in my school-boy days.

Returning to the city very rapidly, we ascended Mount Lycabettus, situated in the suburbs, and crowned with the small church of St. George. It is higher than the Acropolis, and furnishes decidedly the best view of the plain, and the peculiarities of the physical form which distinguish Athens so remarkably from all other places.

Having somewhat a taste for politics, I frequently attended the sitting of the Greek Parliament. The building is quite plain, but sufficiently large and good to answer all purposes. In the lower House the walls are filled with the names of those who distinguished themselves in the late Revolution. I noticed in the collection the names of Lord Byron, Marco Bozzaris, etc. A member occupied the tribune when we were there last, who spoke in a strain of eloquence that is rarely heard in modern times. He spoke in an ardent and enthusiastic manner, reminding me forcibly of the orations of Demosthenes and the orators who harangued the Senate when Greece was in the zenith of her glory. Most of the members were dressed in their national costume, which I admire exceedingly, and sat with their fez on in the same manner as in the English Parliament. The Senate is a very small body, compared with the House, and the members are mostly old men who have distinguished themselves in the cause of their country. The people of Greece have very little confidence in the honesty of their representatives, and seem to regard King Otho as a young man of very little capacity.

While in Athens we were invited to a party at the Piræus, given by the Rev. Dr. Buel, an American missionary, where we met the two daughters of the celebrated Marco Bozzaris, and the Maid of Athens, now Mrs. Black. The young ladies were dressed in the Greek fashion; conversed fluently in English; and are every way fit representatives of the great Suliote chief. The readers of Byron will be shocked to learn that the Maid of Athens united her fortunes with an English policeman named Black, and is now the mother of a whole host of little Blacks. This is what you might term a step from the sublime to the ridiculous; but when she informed me that Byron was in love with her mother and dedicated his poetry to her when but a child, it palliated, in some measure, my disappointment, and I excused her for propagating the Black race.

The next day we visited the American missionary school, established by the Rev. Messrs. Hill and Robinson, in 1830. They went as the agents of the Episcopal Missionary Society, and have succeeded in building up a school that would reflect credit upon any country. This is certainly an ever-changing world. Athens was once the great centre of learning and the fine arts. Here Socrates and Plato and Aristotle taught, and Cicero went to study; and young America is paying back the debt which the world owes to the mother of science. From the school-room we repaired to Mr. Hill's residence, where we had the pleasure of meeting a number of American and English families, several old Greek Senators and their daughters, besides a number of strangers from different countries. Among the guests was the daughter of a Swedish Count, who married an Athenian woman. This young lady was just sweet sixteen, and without exception the most beautiful and fascinating creature that my eyes ever rested upon. Her form and features were Grecian, with the fair complexion and vivacity of the Swede. She spoke six languages with great fluency, and was just making her début in society. I fell desperately in love of course-and what was a little strange, my friend Johnstoné, of South Carolina, found himself in the same interesting situation. I had experienced the feeling before, and wondered to myself how I ever became so deeply enamored with a creature so different in every respect from the Count's daughter. Johnstone, however, seemed so earnest in his attentions that I yielded the field to him, and passed most of the evening with the

adopted daughter of Mr. Hill, called Elizabeth, of Crete, who is not quite so beautiful in person, but in point of intellect and qualities of the heart, she has no superior. Hereafter, when I think of the classic city, the images of these two bright creatures will come vividly before me, and I will long to be once more in Greece.

LETTER FIFTY-FIVE.

CORINTH.

Adieu to Athens-Tomb of Themistocles-Islands of Egina, Hydra, and Spezzia-Gulf of Nauplia-Fortress of Palamede-Itch Kali-The Lion Monument-Ruins of TirynthusRuins of Argos-Ruins of Mycena-Ruins of Nemea-Corinth-Gulf of Lepanto.

AGREEABLY to arrangement, a large party of English and American travellers assembled at the Piræus to embark for the Morea. The morning sun was shining most beautifully, shedding a halo of light over the marble ruins of the Acropolis, and presenting to the eye a picture of rare sublimity. As we moved over the plain of Attica, I stood up in the carriage and watched the dear old Athens, with the same feelings that agitate the lover's bosom when he bids good-by to the idol of his heart. Farewell, mother of Science, farewell! My eyes will never look upon your temples again, but the image of the mind will endure for ever.

Soon after leaving the Piræus we saw the moleheads to which the ancients attached a chain to prevent the entrance of hostile ships, and also the remains of the tomb of Themistocles, near the water's edge,. and in sight of the scene of his glory. The foundations of the wall built by Themistocles are still visible.

About twenty miles from the Piræus is the beautiful island of Egina. We ran close to it, and had a fine view of the remains of the temple of Jupiter Panhellenius, situated six miles distant from the port.

The next island of importance was that of Hydra. One of the Boudouri family was on board, and gave me a very interesting account of the history of this island. It is extremely barren, but the inhabitants by industry and skill in navigation have built up a town at once beautiful and flourishing. View it on a summer's evening by

moonlight, and it is one of the most magnificent scenes imaginable. The white houses hanging in the form of an amphitheatre upon a steep mountain, then appear like a mass of snow; and the lights sparkling in the distance from the open windows "show like stars of gold on a silver ground." The glorious share that this little island. has taken in the regeneration of Greece has brought it conspicuously into notice, and to the latest posterity the brave Hydriotes will live the watchword of freedom.

Passing between the island of Spezzia and the Morea, we entered the deep and beautiful gulf of Nauplia to the town of the same name. Most of our party remained all night on the steamer; but Johnstone and myself went to a hotel in preference. As soon as our luggage was deposited, we took a walk up to the fortress of the Palamede, situated on a lofty and precipitous rock, seven hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It is inaccessible on all sides, except at one point to the east, where it is connected with a range of barren, rocky hills, and was surnamed the Gibraltar of Greece. The view from the fortress is surpassingly beautifulembracing the plains of Argos, Mycenae, and the distant mountains. of Sparta. The second fortress, that of Itch Kali, is built on a peninsular rock, rising above the town, at the foot of the Palamede. The summit is encompassed by walls, whose foundations are the only traces of antiquity in the immediate vicinity. Numerous batteries protect it on all sides. The Venetians attempted to make it an island, by cutting through the rock and letting the sea flow round it, in which they partially succeeded. Nauplia was for a time the capital of Greece, and improved rapidly during the stay of the Regency, but as soon as the Court was moved to Athens it fell back to its original importance.

Returning to the hotel, (which is without exception the filthiest I have ever seen,) I amused myself by smoking an old pipe belonging to the landlord, watching the soldiers in the square, and examining an engraving of Gen. Jackson, which was given to the father of the present proprietor by the captain of one of the vessels sent to Greece during Jackson's administration to furnish the revolutionists with arms. Oh that we could have passed that night at the Hermitage in the fair State of Tennessee, instead of fighting Greek fleas at the miserable locanda at Nauplia!