marble, on the top of the head-piece; and those of the gentler sex, by a rose-fit emblem of purity and love.

In going to the Caravan Bridge, the favorite resort for the Turks in summer, we had an opportunity of witnessing a caravan, extending about two miles, and loaded with fruits and silks. The silks were from Persia, and of the richest quality. I congratulated myself that I was not a woman, for they looked so tempting that I might have exhausted my letter of credit.

Smyrna is the great fig market of the world. Vessels from all nations can be seen loading with this delicious fruit. On the steamers and in the hotels they did not furnish us with the best quality, and gave as their reason, that the price was so great, that none but rich foreign people could afford to eat them.

Persons wishing to visit the six remaining churches of Ephesus, Laodicea, Philadelphia, Sardis, Thyatira, and Pergamos, usually make this their starting point. To see them all, requires some ten or fifteen days; and I have been informed by persons who have visited them, that the ruins in several are well deserving attention, and will fully repay one for the trouble, danger, and expense of the journey.

During our stay in Smyrna, we took a ride on that animal of animals called the donkey. Ah! I will not soon forget that ride. Without stirrups to diminish my longitude, or bridle to guide the stubborn beast, I was left to the mercy of a driver, who seemed to delight in the fun created by our ludicrous appearance as we passed through the bazaars. The people looked at me and then at my donkey, as if to say, What a long individual, and what a short donkey strangers, can't you relieve the little fellow? Fortunately, we had been gazed at so often that our faces had become hard, and if such had not been the case the profusion of fancy beard on my face would have defied them to detect a blush. Passing almost through the entire length of the city, we revisited that detestable. place known as the Lazaretto, where our old travelling companions, Messrs. E-g, P., and F. P., were fighting against time. We were not allowed to enter the premises, but shook hands and conversed with them through the gratings. After giving in our experience, we bade them good-by, and hope to meet them somewhere in Europe. We then proceeded to the summit of Mount Pagus to

enjoy the magnificent view of the city and bay, and to examine the ruins of the old castle, which is now deserted and fast falling to decay. A very large space is inclosed within the walls, and in the centre of it is the ruined mosque, supposed to have been the original church of Smyrna. Our guide pointed out portions of the old Hellenic walls, some of the relics of the Temple of Jupiter, the stadium, the place where Polycarp is said to have suffered martyrdom, besides the fragments of numerous busts, cornices, columns, and entablatures. Our examination was suddenly interrupted by the magic appearance of two men dressed in the Albanian costume, and armed cap-à-pie. They proposed to hold our donkeys, but we declined, and immediately started back to the city, having received intimation from our guide that they were brigands, and would in a few minutes summon their comrades and make us their captives. We had left our weapons at the hotel, and thinking that "discretion was the better part of valor," we made our little animals cut dirt faster, probably, than they ever did before. These brigands are the most desperate characters in all the East, and keep the Smyrnians in constant terror. Just before our arrival, they seized the Dutch Consul, while walking in his garden, and conveyed him to one of their dens in the country, hoping that some great reward would be offered for his return. No reward, however, was offered, and they sent in word to his wife that five thousand dollars ransom money would save her husband, and if it was not paid on a certain day, they would send in his head for her to make soup out of. This message induced the friends of the Consul to furnish the money, and he was permitted to return once more to the bosom of his family.

Smyrna from its earliest history has been renowned for the beauty and exquisite loveliness of its women. You can find isolated beauties in almost any country or clime, but it does seem that certain localities are peculiarly blessed, and set apart for the development of form and feature in its most perfect image.

"Grace shaped her limbs, and beauty decked her face."

Well may the devotee of female beauty give utterance to the language of Prior as he strolls through the bazaars of this city. In symmetry of figure, regularity of feature, elasticity of movement, and general attractiveness, they fully merit all that has been said of them,

and can vie in my estimation with the most attractive signoras of Italy or Spain. Next to a beautiful woman I admire a beautiful vessel, and here we have both. Napoleon III., feeling the necessity of strengthening the naval arm of his service, in order to cope with the old Beldam of the Sea, and the rising greatness of the Model Republic, has ordered a number of new screw frigates to be built on an improved plan, and every way superior to any war steamer now afloat. The vessel that I saw in the harbor at Smyrna is certainly the most beautiful and complete craft that my eye ever rested upon, and if she succeeds it will bring about an entire change in the present system, and steam will supersede the sailing vessels. "My voice is not for war," but it is sometimes inevitable, and the next great conflict of nations must be on the seas. The commerce of the United States is now spread over the world, our brave mariners can be seen in every latitude, and it is almost certain that we must be participants in such a struggle. Are we prepared? Are we able with our present navy to protect our ships in foreign seas, or even our seaboard cities from the devastations of war? No, no, no! England, France, and even Russia, outnumber us in their guns, and in point of steam power we are far, far behind. Most of our countrymen do not know or feel the necessity of giving strength to our navy, but those who have had the opportunity of investigating this matter will tell you that it is of more importance to us at this present moment than all else besides. We have a mighty destiny to work out, an increasing commerce to foster, and an extensive coast to protect. With a strong navy we have nothing to fear, but in our present condition we are liable to be crippled-nay, ruined. Do not understand me as the advocate of an unwieldy and expensive navy, for I believe it to be like a large standing army, a curse and drain upon the best interests of the country; but let us have a power on the sea equal to our requirements, and capable of sustaining and perpetuating the glory and greatness of a nation now moving rapidly to the perfection of human government, and the end of man's creation.

LETTER FIFTY-ONE.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

Departure from Smyrna-Island of Mitylene-Tenedos-Plains of Troy-The HellespontThe Dardanelles-Gallipoli-The Golden Horn-Pera-View of Constantinople from the Tower of Pera.

Ar Smyrna we took passage on the Austrian steamer for this renowned and beautiful city. We had for our companions a large number of pilgrims, and a full complement of cabin passengers, amongst whom I recognised Lord Henry, of England, whose acquaintance I formed during the past winter in Egypt. He is a young man, about eighteen years of age, well educated, and much more agreeable than the generality of English nobility. Coming out of the gulf of Smyrna, we had a fine opportunity of seeing the city to advantage. The sun was just sinking behind Mount Pagus, reflecting its rays on the domes and minarets of the mosques, presenting to the eye a panorama of extreme loveliness.

The first place of interest, after clearing the gulf, is the island Mytilene, the ancient Lesbos, one of the most important islands in -the Archipelago, situated in front of the Gulf of Adramiti, and separated from the continent of Asia by a narrow channel varying in breadth from seven to twelve miles. The island now possesses but few remains of its ancient grandeur, and, like many other places, its glory is in the past. Many distinguished individuals were born here, among whom were Theophrastus and Phanias, the two favored disciples of Aristotle;" Pittacus, the Greek sage; the poet Alcæus; the musician Phrynis, and Sappho the great poetess.

Our next stopping place was at the island of Tenedos, opposite to which we had a beautiful view of the plains of Troy, so celebrated in ancient history. Ida, capped with snow, and the amphitheatre of mountains which encircle the valley of Mendire, or ancient Scamander, are presented prominently in the panorama, giving beauty and romance to a spot more celebrated than any other in the classics. Alexander Troas contains many remains of broken columns, pedestals, etc.; and about one mile from the sea are some ruins on a very grand scale, called by our captain the palace of Priam. Passing Rabbit Island, we entered the Hellespont, the mouth of which

is five and a half miles across. It is defended by two castles, built by Mohammed IV. in 1659, to secure his fleet from the insults of the Venetians, who used to come and attack it in sight of the old castles. Proceeding up the channel some distance, we found a Norwegian brig, loaded with coal, cast the night before on the shore in a storm. We attempted to draw her into deep water, but our efforts were fruitless. The captain seemed much distressed, and I truly sympathized with him; for being cast away on a foreign shore, among Turks, is no small matter. Soon after this we landed at the Dardanelles, where we had an opportunity of examining the two famous castles. The castles of Chanak-kalessi, or Sultanie-kalessi, on the Asiatic side, and Chelitbawris, or Kelidbahar, (the lock of the sea,) on the European shore, are called by the Turks Bogaz-hissarleiri, and by the Franks the Old Castles of Anatolia and Roumelia. We did not have time to go on shore, but we could see the general structure of the castles, and the great mortars out of which immense balls are shot. The dimensions of one of these balls, as stated by Gibbon, are enormous. Napoleon carried one of them to France, and it is said that it required the strength of twenty-four men to put it in the vessel.

The town of Chanak-kalessi is the place properly called the Dardanelles, and derives its name from the extensive pottery carried on here. While the steamer was at anchor a number of caïques came out to us loaded with gilded pottery, for sale. The helmsman of one of the boats was the largest human being that I ever saw. He was as black as original sin, and so fat that his flesh hung about him in immense flakes; his weight must have been enormous, for the stern of the caïque was deep in the water, while the bow was high in the air, notwithstanding two other men and a large amount of pottery were placed in front to counter-balance his surplus rotundity. Just above the Castles is the narrow point in the channel where Xerxes' bridges are supposed to have been applied. This part of the Dardanelles is likewise celebrated as the place where the army of Alexander, under Parmenio, crossed from Europe. Here the Ottoman crescent was first planted in Europe by Suleiman, son of Orchan, A. D. 1360. Here Leander used to swim across to visit Hero. The same feat (which has been performed by many since) was accomplished by Lord Byron in one hour and ten minutes.