opolis." The principal entrance to the large temple was by a Corinthian colonnade, with a handsome flight of stone steps. A wall of modern date has been built across it, flanked at each end by two square towers. Columns, cornices, pillars, and vast fragments of the building lay scattered about here in sad confusion. The columns in the large temple are about sixty feet in length, and seven feet in diameter, and I observed three stones in the outer wall measuring sixty-eight feet in length, fourteen in height, and sixteen and a half in breadth. These stones were conveyed by some unknown power from the quarry, half a mile distant, and elevated twenty-five feet above the ground. The six standing columns of the large temple present the most imposing appearance I ever beheld.

The Temple of the Sun stands nearly south of the great temple, and the best view of it is from the six columns. Four richly corniced pillars at the south-east corner are all that remain of the portico. A Saracenic tower has been built over them, and in front of the principal entrance is a high stone wall, apparently of the same age as the tower. Passing through a low gateway, we found ourselves in front of this magnificent portal. It is built in the richest and most florid style of Corinthian architecture. The centre, or keystone, has been forced partly out of its place, most probably the effect of some earthquake, to which the whole of Syria is more or less subjected. Over it is a carved eagle holding a caduceus in his talons, and garlands in his beak. The interior of the temple is richly ornamented, but the entire roof has fallen in. Not far from the east corner is a square Saracenic building, with an arched roof, so formed as to support another building, few traces of which remain; a staircase on one side leads to the top. Ibrahim Pasha converted this building into a magazine. A little to the north-east of this building, and across the river, is a small circular temple of the Corinthian order, embowered among trees. It is one of the most elegant edifices in all Syria. Unfortunately, it has suffered very seriously, in common with the other temples, from repeated shocks of earthquakes, which have left so little standing evidence of the vast and wonderful chambers of the ancient Balbec. Close to the temple is a large ruined mosque, which seems to have been built out of the fragments of the buildings, and contains a tomb supposed by Lord Nugent to be that of the great Saladin. The inscription is in Arabic, and is thus translated

in Nugent's work on the East: "Under this tablet is laid, by God's power, his most mighty officer, to whom there was no rival; King of the Arabs-King of the Seas and Lands, King of all Nations-lover of peace and justice, the most intelligent servant of the Most High God, unto whom he built this sanctuary; the most noble, powerful, and wise; the honor of all the world; the greatest king-Saleh-allaed-Dhein, who by the wisdom of his mind won all these countries, as also the affections of all the people whom he subdued in the land of peace." This being the last object of interest in the ancient city of Balbec, we took one long and lingering look before starting to this city.

uum

There is very little to interest the traveller on the road between the two places, except some bold scenery of the Anti-Libanus, and the celebrated cedars of Lebanon, mentioned in the books of Ezra and Ezekiel. Our first view of the plain of Ghouta, in which Damascus is situated, was sudden and grand. We came to it unexpectedly, and in an instant one unbroken view as far as the eye could reach, covered over with innumerable villages, mounds, and water-courses, was presented to the eye, forming a panorama of rare beauty. From the elevated position from which we first beheld Damascus, it looked to be in the shape of the figure six, but so much concealed by numerous groves and gardens that encompass it on every side, that our view was very imperfect. These gardens, which are chiefly private property, abound in fountains and summer-houses; and here under the shade of the walnut, the citron, the orange, and the pomegranate, the luxurious and idle Turk passes the greater part of his time during the summer months, lost to every thing around him but the smoke he is inhaling from his chibook or arghile. The principal gardens lie close to the town, between it and the mountain of Sulihizzeh, but they are scattered through the whole of the plantation around Damascus, which extends over a circumference of nearly twenty miles. Near the centre of this plantation stands the city, about six miles in circumference. Two of the branches of the river Barrada flow through the environs, and may probably be the cause of the luxurious vegetation; while the main branch of the river passes through the town, supplies the numerous plantations and baths, which contribute so much to the elegance, as well as general salubrity of this queen of Oriental cities

Descending from the mountain into the plain, we passed through a neat little village into a narrow lane, walled in on either side with large blocks of dried mud and gravel mingled together, and placed in the same manner that we build our stone walls. Entering the gate on the east side of the city, we passed through a number of well-filled bazaars to the Palmyra Hotel, kept by a Greek. It is the only hotel in Damascus, and excepting Demetrie's, in Beirout, it is the best in Syria. The external appearance of the house is not at all attractive, but the inner court and the apartments are really elegant. The walls are beautifully painted in the Oriental fashion, the ceiling inlaid with pearl, and fountains filled with pure water ornament the court, and the centre of each chamber. It is decidedly the most comfortable place that we have been into for many months --so much so, that I would like to remain here several weeks, but time is precious, and other engagements demand that we should see the city in a few days, and be off.

The morning after our arrival we enjoyed the luxury of a Turkish bath, in an excellent establishment adjoining the hotel. The operation is rather long, but so comfortable that we do not regret the time spent. As many of your readers are unacquainted with this Eastern luxury, I will briefly describe it in its appointments. We were first conducted into a large circular apartment with a fountain in the centre-towels and pipes hanging about in all directions, and elevated platforms on which are arranged couches for the customers. Here we undressed, had a cover placed about our loins and a white cotton turban on our heads, Placing our feet in high pattens, we were conducted slowly by two Turkish boys through three rooms of different temperatures. We remained about half an hour in the third room, and were then conducted into a fourth, of still warmer temperature, where we were soaped, kneaded, and hot water poured over us. We remained in the fourth room about one hour, and were then conducted into a fifth room, where we went down head and ears into a large basin of very hot water. In this we remained only a few minutes, when we were conducted to the couches in the first room, where we lay on our backs covered with sheets, and smoking arghiles until breakfast was announced. This last operation is decidedly the most agreeable, and constitutes the chief luxury of the bath.

After breakfast we went into the silk bazaars, and purchased a

variety of scarfs and other articles peculiar to Damascus and Aleppo. They will be much prized by our lady friends at home-both on account of their beauty, and the fact that they were bought here for them.

The bazaars of Damascus are far more numerous and better supplied than those in Cairo. Each trade has a separate quarter for their goods, and they are better lighted and have a more elegant appearance than we have seen in any other Eastern city.

ness.

From the bazaars our guide conducted us to the private houses of several wealthy Jews, which constitute the greatest attraction of Damascus. We were received by the ladies with the utmost kindRefreshments were furnished, and every facility offered to see and learn their manner of living. The apartments are very numerous, and fitted up in a style peculiarly Oriental. The ladies are very fair, dress richly, but without taste, and exhibit their bosoms in a manner that would shock the females in our country. The coffeehouses are numerous and well furnished, generally speaking; they are open on all sides, except where partially covered with plants. trained up the slender columns which support the roofs. Many of them project over some running stream, with orchards and gardens covering the opposite bank. Here, during the spring and summer months, the ear is greeted with the notes of singing birds, thousands of which shelter themselves amidst the luxuriant groves of apricot, mulberry, and Damascus plum trees, whose fruit is strangely mingled with the dense foliage of the elm, the ash, the willow, and the sycaI noticed one sycamore in the bazaar that was at least fifteen feet in diameter, also grape vines of enormous size. While we were sipping our coffee in one of these pleasant places, I men standing around a large mortar pounding coffee. had pestles similar to those used with us for beating heavier, each weighing forty pounds. The fifth man stood and stirred the coffee up with his hands amid the four pestles with a dexterity really wonderful. While pounding they sung a low and monotonous song, and exerted themselves in a manner that few ordinary men could undergo. They were all nearly naked, and the perspiration rolled down their bodies into the coffee in such streams that I disliked to drink the beverage. Although Damascus is a large and important city, there are but few objects in it to interest the Christian stranger.

more.

'

observed five Four of them

corn, but far

Our guide conducted us to a small cellar, said to be the house of Judas, in which Ananias restored sight to Saul. A quarter of a mile from the eastern gate of the city, a spot is pointed out as the scene of his miraculous conversion, not far from which is also shown the part of the wall from which St. Paul was let down by night in a basket, to avoid the Jews, who were keeping watch at the gate to kill him. (Acts ix. 11-20.)

Mr. Burnet, of Cincinnati, who is a missionary residing in Damascus, pointed out to us the ruins of a temple near the great mosque, which has no name, nor is it mentioned in any of the books. Six huge columns, surmounted by a heavy cornice, are all that remains of the temple. It is admirably executed, and furnishes the best view of the city.

The population of Damascus is estimated at one hundred and fifty thousand, of whom twelve thousand are Christians, four thousand Jews, and the remainder Mohammedans. If the city was connected with Beirout by railroad it would flourish very rapidly; but the vast and magnificent plain in which it is situated is so isolated from the world, that they cannot expect to make much advancement.

This is my last letter from Syria. In a few days we sail for Smyrna and Constantinople, and if convenient I will furnish you with letters describing the remainder of our tour.

LETTER FORTY-NINE.

SMYRNA, Asia Minor.

Farewell to the Holy Land-Voyage to Smyrna-Our Steamer and Passengers-Island of Cyprus-Coast of Karamania-Islands of Rhodes, Samos, and Scio-Bay of Smyrna-The Quarantine.

LIKE the Jews, I always had, from the time I learnt my catechism at the Sunday school, a strong desire to see with my own eyes the scenes of Sacred History. To live and die, and be cheated out of this darling idea, was too great a privation, and I had no rest till the tour was accomplished. Now that I have visited all the Holy Places, and lingered sufficiently long to hear the wondrous story, and expe