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out in the Channel without moving the least for eight hours; about dark a breeze sprung up, and we made a fine run as far up as Great Owen's Head, where we will lie until morning. The scenery along the shores of Wales looks very beautiful in the distance, although very rugged. I was strongly reminded, while looking at the many little farms inclosed by hedges and ditches, of some of the closely cultivated portions of New-England. Every spot of ground seems. to be in a high state of cultivation.

You will be surprised to learn that the hills along these shores are clad with snow, which appears a little singular so late in the season. The steam tug is now waiting to carry us into Liverpool, which I am anxious to reach, having been out twenty-six days.

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LETTER THREE.

WATERLOO HOTEL, Liverpool, Eng.

Arrival at Liverpool-Appearance of the City from the River Mersey-The Docks-Public Buildings-Monuments-Railroad Stations-Markets-Hotels-Draught Horses-Visit to

Birkenhead-Marriage in Church, &c.

On the morning of the 8th, the good ship Waterloo cast anchor in the Mersey, three miles below the city, near the Lock Fort, after a voyage of twenty-six days. Here, the captain informed us, we had to remain until he could go after a custom-house officer to examine cur trunks, all of which appeared absurd to those over-anxious to reach the land. Several of us, determined not to be cheated out of a good breakfast, accepted the invitation of the captain and went ashore, leaving our luggage on the ship. After procuring lodgings for the party, and partaking of an excellent breakfast, we returned in the steam-tug to the Waterloo, where we found all on deck, anxiously awaiting our return. In a few minutes the baggage and passengers were transferred from the ship to the tug, and off we started, giving three hearty cheers for the Waterloo and her crew, which was responded to by the officers and sailors with heartfelt enthusiasm.

We are now in the hands of the custom-house officer, whose duty requires a thorough examination of all baggage entering the port in

order to detect smuggling and to receive duties on articles of prohibition. English reprints and cigars are immediately taken, if discovered, and also daguerreotypes and line engravings. Several of our party paid duty on these articles. As a general thing their examinations are nominal, particularly if the person presents a genteel appearance, for they merely ran their hands hurriedly through the contents of the trunks, frequently leaving things undiscovered which would otherwise bring revenue to the government. Many avail themselves of their good looks, and pass through the custom-house without detection.

The approach to Liverpool does not come up to my expectations, although the docks give it an appearance altogether different from what we are accustomed to, rendering it very attractive to the lovers of architectural skill. These docks of world-wide reputation, standing for miles along the river, are the pride of the city and Great Britain, and justly so, for they show to mankind what mighty works of commercial convenience labor and skill can produce. The cost of these docks was immense; more, probably, than any other nation is able to bestow upon one city.

· Liverpool is comparatively a new place, but its immense tonnage, which now almost equals that of London, and its growing importance in a commercial point of view, render it, next to the metropolis, the greatest city in the kingdom. Those who now look at the Tyre of Great Britain, view its spacious docks where flags of all nations. float gaily in the breeze, traverse its wide streets and observe its noble public buildings, handsome shops and commodious dwellinghouses, must find some difficulty in believing it has sprung from an insignificant fishing village within the period of little more than a century, whose inhabitants in the days of "good Queen Bess" found themselves compelled to pray for the remission of a tax, which they were unable to pay, styling themselves of "Her Majesty's poor and decayed town of Liverpool." The greatest and most remarkable changes, however, have taken place within the last eighty years. There are still living many persons, with memories nervous in age, who with feeble voices speak of their native town abounding in fields, orchards, and gardens, pleasant places which have gradually faded from sight before the magic touch of improvement; broad streets, squares and palaces only now appearing, where wild flowers hung pendulous in'

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the sunbeam, and the loudest noise was that of merry children at play, or the carolling of the cuckoo in mid-air. Year by year the town has been extending and spreading, until its former features have departed, leaving no traces of early recollection and no spot to quiet reflection in the mind of the antiquary.

Liverpool has done much towards beautifying her public buildings, which are real ornaments-and at the same time substantial. It would be impossible to give in the space of a letter an accurate description of the various public buildings, and I will merely touch upon the general features of the most attractive.

The corner-stone of the custom-house, which is a very large and substantial building, was laid in 1828, with much ceremony. The style of this edifice is Ionic, and designed somewhat in the shape of a double cross with four points of great extent. The main front is 430 feet in length, and surmounted by a cupola and dome 127 feet from the ground, the crown of which is supported by a tasteful circle of Corinthian columns, between which are placed sixteen perpendicular windows, admitting a strong flood of light in the spacious. room below. The windows in the upper story are semicircularly arched; the lower portion of the building is rusticated. The customhouse and post-office is a stately building, well adapted for all commercial and postal purposes. In front of this building there is a bronze statue erected by the corporation to the memory of Huskisson, through whose powerful mediation the building was commenced. The exchange building next claims our attention. Its foundation was laid in 1803, and the total cost was £110,888. It is one of the largest buildings in the city, occupying three sides of a quadrangle, measuring 194 feet by 180, the area being 3,492 feet, and twice the size of the Exchange, London. It is built of reddish-colored stone in the Doric fashion.

In the centre of the area of the Exchange is the Nelson Monument, in which I was greatly disappointed, having heard and read very exaggerated accounts of its beauty. It is altogether different in structure from any monument in the States, being made of bronze placed on a plain stone pedestal. The design is very good, and reflects credit upon Mr. C. Wyatt, also upon Westmacott, who modelled it. It i a circular pedestal surmounted with a statue of Nelson holding in his left hand four crowns, emblematical of his four victories, and in

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his right the flags taken in battle. In the rear is a figure of Britannia lamenting his loss, while the hand of a skeleton, emblematical of death, reaches from behind the folds of one of the flags and rests upon his heart. Around this are four allegorical statues representing in different attitudes the appearance of great grief. It has upon it this inscription: "England expects every man to do his duty.” The monument weighs twenty-two tons, and cost £9,000.

St. George's Hall is just being completed. It is the largest and most beautiful edifice in the city. It has a concert room capable of accommodating more persons than any other in this kingdom. Thist building is to be used as an assembly room. While we were visiting this hall we called into a church very near, and were ushered by the sexton into the clerk's room, who invited us very kindly to be seated. In a minute or so he turned to me and asked if I had my license? License for what, said I? To be married, he replied. We all commenced laughing, and he soon discovered his mistake, and made the matter plain by telling us that he was expecting a bridal party, and concluded we were the persons wishing to be united in the holy bonds of wedlock. In a short time the genuine bridal party entered the church, and we witnessed for the first time a marriage in old England.

The Sailors' Home is decidedly the most tasty building in the city, and acquires additional importance from the fact that the corner-stone was laid by Prince Albert, (I mean in the eyes of Englishmen.)

The railroad stations of Liverpool are very costly, being built of solid stone and covered with glass.

The market places of this city are very superior. St. John's market is a building 180 feet long, 100 broad, containing five avenues. There I had an opportunity of seeing some of the fine beef and mutton that I had heard so much about, and I assure you it surpasses any thing that I have ever seen in our' country. The fish market is also very superior; but the vegetables and fruits were very inferior.

There is no place more refreshing in the city limits than St. James' Cemetery. It presents a remarkable appearance, being formed in a deep dell or quarry, which for many years contributed its stone in the erection of various public works. The area contains 44,000

square yards of ground used for interments, while the length is 1500 feet, breadth 270, and depth 60 feet. The western side and north end are covered by a thick shrubbery, sloping gradually from the top of the cemetery to the bottom; the eastern wall is occupied by 105 catacombs, the entrances to which are four feet six inches wide, seven feet high, and finished with rustic masonry; they are approached. by inclined planes. There are one or two chaste tombs in the cemetery, but most of them are very inferior. I was told while there by the sexton that twenty thousand persons had been interred within this small place, which seems almost incredible.

The hotels here are called excellent, but really they are far inferior to our American hotels in every particular. They are nothing more than large coffee-houses with lodging rooms attached. The idea of one taking his meals all alone is rather anti-democratic for Americans, and more particularly a Westerner. You go into the coffee-room and call for what you wish, which is served up in a few minutes by females, in large old-fashioned white caps, which makes one feel like laughing more than eating. Nothing has attracted my attention more than the draft-horses that I see in the streets. Their size and capabilities are really wonderful; as a general thing they are about sixteen hands high, and in proportion. They are in excellent order, and look as sleek as a new hat. Yesterday I counted as many as thirty steam-pressed bales of cotton on one wagon, and drawn by only two horses, which would be considered a tremendous load on our turnpikes for a team of six horses. Being rather curious, I stopped the driver and inquired what he fed his horses with; and he told me that steamed beans and corn were mostly used, but that every thing was steamed. Yesterday afternoon we accepted the invitation of a friend living in Birkenhead, just opposite the city, and visited the Park, containing over one thousand acres, and made at the expense of the corporation of Birkenhead, which contains about thirty thousand inhabitants. It is the largest park in this part of England, and certainly possesses many attractions. It is inclosed by an iron fence, with massive stone gate-ways, and laid out most beautifully in walks and flower beds. In the centre is an artificial stream, filled with swans, over which are thrown aërial bridges. Statuary of various kinds are placed in the most prominent parts of the Park, all together making it exceedingly beautiful.

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