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LETTER XIX.-Farming in the South of Scotland-Hotels-Expense of Travel-Highland

Scenery-Lochs Lomond and Katrine-The Trosachs-Stirling Castle, etc..

LETTER XX.-General Appearance of Edinburgh-Old Town and New Town-Population

-Hospitals-Holyrood Palace-The Castle-Public Buildings-Monuments-Excursion

to Melrose Abbey-Abbotsford-Dryburgh, etc.....

LETTER XXI.-The French Fêtes-Dinner-Theatricals and Concerts at the Hôtel de Ville

-Visit to Versailles-The President's Festival at St. Cloud-Reception at the English

Embassy-Ball at the Hôtel de Ville-Grand Review and Sham Fight in the Champ de

Mars Dramatic Representation at the Opera, etc...

LETTER XXII.-Preparations for a Continental Tour-Arrival in Brussels-Excursion to

the Field of Waterloo-The City of Antwerp-Catholic Antiquities-Fête of the Virgin

Mary-Character of the Country and condition of the Government...
.123

LETTER XXIII.--Trip from Antwerp to Rotterdam-The Hague-Paintings-Canals and

Railroads-Appearance of Amsterdam-Excursions to Haerlem and Brock-Govern-

ment of Holland, and condition of the Country....

.128

LETTER XXIV.-Scenery on the Rhine from its Delta to Mayence-Steamboats, Rafts, and

Bridges on the Rhine-Cologne-The Seven Mountains-Fortifications at Coblentz-

Frankfort on the Main-The Castle of Heidelberg, etc...
..135

LETTER XXV.-Fashionable Watering Places in Germany--Detour to Strasburg-Cathedral

at Freiburg-First Adventure on a Diligence-Customs-Cultivation of Tobacco and

Indian Corn in Germany-Falls of the Rhine, etc....
..142

LETTER XXVI.-Government of Switzerland-Character of the People-General aspect of

the Country-Towns-Lake Lucerne-Mt. Righi-Pedestrian Tour through the Pass of

the Furka and the Bernese Oberland-Rhone Glacier-Falls and Avalanches-Lake

Leman and the Castle of Chillon-Geneva, etc....
.147

LETTER XXVII.-Valley of Chamouni-Ascent to the Mer de Glace-Adventure-View of

Mont Blanc from the Flegere-Hospice of St. Bernard-Dogs-Monks-Morgue-The

Simplon Road, etc.....

.157

LETTER XXVIII.-First Town in Italy-Lago Maggiore-Passports-Examination of Lug-

gage-Milan-Reception of the Emperor-Excursion to Lake Como, etc............161

LETTER XXIX.--Trip to Venice by way of Verona-Entrance in a Gondola-Piazza of St. Mark

-Canals-Churches-Palaces-Excursion to the Lido-Reception of the Emperor..165

LETTER XXX.-Trip from Venice to Florence, through Padua and Bologna-Appearance

of Florence-Her Picture Galleries, Palaces, and Churches-English Church and Peo-

ple in Florence-American Residents and Artists-Flower Girls-Environs-The Grand

Duke and Government of Tuscany..

.169

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LETTER LXI.—Railroads of Germany-Leipzig-Arrival at Dresden-Picture Gallery-The

Green Vault-The Armory-Elbe Bridge-Promenades-Environs, etc.....

LETTER LXII.-Appearance of Berlin-Unter den Linden-Monuments-Royal Palace-

Palace of the Prince of Prussia-Museum-Picture Gallery-Egyptian Museum-The-

atre-Brandenburg Gate-Count Raczynski Gallery-Thiergarten-Bellevue-Consul-

tation with an eminent Surgeon-Pecuniary Difficulties, etc....

LETTER LXIII.-Excursion to Potsdam-Tomb of Frederic the Great-Palace of the Prince

of Prussia-Bellevue-Russian Colony-Sans Souci-New Palace-Statue of the late

Queen of Prussia, etc.....
..362

LETTER LXIV.-Voyage from Stettin to St. Petersburg-Our Vessel and Passengers-The

Gulf of Finland-Cronstadt-First View of St. Petersburg- The Neva-New Bridge

-English Quay-Police Regulations-Our Hotel--Dinner at the U. S. Ambassador's.364

LETTER LXV.—Passport System-The Newski Perspective-Churches-Peter's Log Cabin

-Corps des Mines-Admiralty-Palaces-Monuments-Excursion to Peterhoff-The

Neva-Pickpockets....

LETTER LXVI.-Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow-The Railroad-Russian Serfs-

English Hotel-Sunday in Moscow-The Kremlin-Monasteries-The Riding School

-Bazaars-Tea Houses-Amusing Incident, etc....
..374

LETTER LXVII.-Voyage from St. Petersburg to Stockholm-Revel-Helsingfors-Abo-Ar-

rival in Stockholm-The Park-King's Palace-Churches-Haga-Drottningholm--

Jenny Lind's Parents-The Swedes, etc.

LETTER LXVIII.-Trollhattan Canal-Polhem and Gullo Falls-Gottenburg-Voyage to

Copenhagen-The Round Tower-Magdalene or Lady Church-King's Palace-Monu-

ments-Thorwalsden's Museum-Private Museum-Frederic Park-The Danes.....387

LETTER LXIX.-Voyage from Copenhagen to Kiel-Hamburg-The Alster Basin-The Bourse

-Trip to Hanover-The Theatre-Royal Palace-Waterloo Column, etc..
..391

LETTER LXX.-Trip from Hanover to Aix-la-Chapelle-The Baths-The Redoute-The

Dom Kirche Hôtel de Ville-Summary of my Tour-Conclusion...

A TENNESSEAN ABROAD.

LETTER ONE.

SHIP

Banks of Newfoundland.

Introduction-Prospects of visiting Europe-Reasons for going-Preparation for the Voy. age-Parting with Friends-The Waterloo-Passengers-The Steam-tug-New-York Bay -Fight among the Sailors-The midnight cry of Murder-Man overboard-Sermon at Sea-Storm near the Banks-Icebergs, etc.

"I'm on the sea; I'm on the sea,

I am where I have longed to be,

With the blue above and the blue below,
And joy wherever I go."

FOR some years past I have cherished the hope that it would be in my power to realize the fondest dreams of a life passed in literary pursuits and professional duties, and make a tour in foreign lands, whose history, language, people, institutions and customs, I have heard and read so much about, but which no one has written of or represented so as to enable me to appreciate what I now anticipate. Some persons are content if they have a well-written history or book of travels, over which they can go into ecstasies without the trouble of locomotion, and at the same time enjoy the cosy fireside, and perfume of the well-filled meerschaum; but with me it only creates a desire to see with my own eyes, and learn for myself, things I have failed to realize in books. Through some freak of fortune, or misfortune, as time may determine, I found my inclination to leave home become so strong, I was willing to yield to the solicitations of those who desired my company, leave my business, part with my family and friends, and all who are near and dear to me, and be a rover for eighteen months or more in foreign climes. As the day fixed for our departure drew near, my anxiety became intensé. I was ready even before the time to bid adieu to my native land, with a heart full of anticipated pleasure.

On Saturday, at noon, I found myself on board the splendid ship Waterloo, belonging to the Star Line, bound for Liverpool, and commanded by Captain Harvey. Here I found assembled those who were to constitute my fellow-passengers across old ocean's wave, numbering some thirty-five persons, great aud small, for the cabin, and forty-five for the steerage. Here, also, I found assembled a few chosen friends whom I had known in college-life, and who had come to the dock to take leave, and express their good wishes for my safe return and happiness. After a short time allowed by our accommodating captain for leave-taking, we were dragged by the tug Achilles out into the middle of East River, amid the shouts and waving of those on shore. We stood in the stream for about half an hour, waiting for two of our party, who had gone out to purchase books for perusal during the voyage, thinking they had ample time. They soon returned, and found, much to their surprise, that we had left the dock. Their only chance was to get some one to row them out in a yawl, which they soon found without difficulty. As they were pulling out to us, we laughed at them most heartily, which dispelled for a time the gloom which seemed to pervade all on deck. All being aboard, the tug comes up and hitches on, and off we move for our destination. While wending our way slowly out to Sandy Hook, we had a fine opportunity of indulging our romantic ideas and enjoying the beautiful scenery on New-York Bay, which is said by some to surpass any in the world, not excepting even the Bay of Naples, rendered immortal by the pen of the gifted Byron. The great city of New-York, the emporium of the new world, with her lofty spires and immense structures, surrounded by a forest of masts, indicating her commercial importance; Brooklyn, her sister city just opposite, with her beautiful residences and public edifices; together with Hoboken, Jersey City, Governor's Island, and other places, all possessing their attractions, combine to render the panorama exceedingly beautiful. About dusk the steamer left us outside the Hook, and returned to the city, leaving us to make our way across old ocean's wave as fast as the wind might carry us. In a few moments the hoarse voice of the mate was heard crying " All hands ahoy!" but instead of the command being obeyed, it was followed by the cry of "Fight-fight-fight !" when all on deck simultaneously made their way to the forecastle, from whence the cry

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