the head open, and decapitated it, but

of a Christian, who, hearing of the approach of the invaders, hid the figure in a moment it became whole and intact in a hole under a huge block of stones as before, which sight so affrighted the a little distance from the hermitage." soldiers that they fled, forgetting in (Many of the faithful go through the their hurry to pillage or even set fire to difficult task of crawling under these the church. A century after a Corustones, called "the cradle of the Vir-ñese 'Don Juan del Rio,' fired with gin.") enthusiasm by this miracle, rebuilt at "When the country was restored to his own expense the old church, which quiet and Christianity, this hiding-place was too small for the numerous devowas revealed to a little shepherdess, tees.' who, perceiving a star resting on the 'cradle,' ran to the peasants, persuading them to lift the rock, under which the image was found. A church was now built, taking the place of the hermitage (this in the eleventh century), where the faithful flocked from great distances, attracted by the tale of the miraculous discovery."

(Some of his descendants still live in Coruña; the females of his line have the privilege of being waitingmaids to the Virgin, dressing and adorning her on festive occasions. The founder and his family are buried in a chapel in the church.)

An old writing explains that Don Juan del Rio, finding the original figure of the Virgin very old-fashioned and Some tradition seems to have been difficult to dress, for she was reprekept, however, amongst the peasants sented sitting in a chair, her arms during this interval, for they would resting on it, so that the dresses could speak mysteriously of a star which, not be fitted to the waist, he deemed riding over the castro, ruins of ancient it advisable to make certain alterations fortified place, directly after the setting of the sun, served as a beacon to the mariners on that rugged coast.

"The Virgin was now left in peace until the fifteenth century, when the English (perfidious Albion !) elated by the destruction of the "Invincible Armada,' became bolder and more hostile in their depredations on the Spanish coast, Drake especially distinguishing himself in these piracies." (Drake, whose name is still thought of with superstitious horror by the natives, believing that it signifies Dragon !)

"When Drake came with his fleet to besiege Coruña, men, women, and children rose up to defend their country, and he was totally defeated." (I translate a legend, be it remembered.) "Before retiring discomfited the heretics left sad memories behind them, destroying all they could, sacking the churches and monasteries, destroying the images, with ruthless hate. It was then that the famous miracle called 'el miraclo del Draque' took place; a band of heretic soldiers took the beloved pastoral virgin' out of the church, threw it on the ground, broke

to suit the taste of the day, so that now she is to be seen standing, with waist segun arte, and is easily dressed. Though the work was well done, it cannot but be lamented that the original was not left in its primitive state.

An old writing on the wall of the church was also rendered illegible by this energetic Vandal, for an order to a mason is still to be seen, in which he is told to clean it, and escodarlo "hew with a stone hammer." All that is legible is the date, 491, probably the year in which the hermitage was built.

The poor image seems to have been doomed not to be left in peace. Here is the last legend.

"At the commencement of this century a Coruña sailing captain literally fell in love with the Virgin; such an exclusive, passionate character did this devotion take, that he conceived the wild idea of becoming sole possessor of the old image, thinking that, having this precious talisman on board his ship, he must always be safe from all perils by water." (This Virgin is especially venerated by the mariner.) "This longing destroyed appetite, sleep, and rest. Seeing it would be

impossible to get the whole image, he | full papal powers, arrived in Coruña, determined to become the owner at and while rousing the flagging faith least of the divine visage. Bribing (superstition ?) of the people, sold inthe sacristan with two hundred pesos dulgences, also medals as decorations, and the gift of a new head, the old the amount realized to be presented to one was removed." (The Virgin this the "poor pope." time, evidently in consideration of the simple faith and ardent love of the destroyer, allowed herself to be decapitated, and the elated captain escaped, bearing the precious head under his cloak.) "His joy, however, was shortlived; the exchange was found out, judicial enquiries set on foot, and the delinquent made to restore the head; the sacristan was imprisoned."

Much excitement prevailed in Coruña for several weeks anterior to the day, wagon loads of miserable poor coming into town to be marshalled in order. Well, the day arrived. After mass in the parish church here, the procession started, at 6.30 A.M., gay with banners and decorations, certain orders carrying distinctive colors worn round the neck. A beautiful banner representing "The Sacred Heart," was presented to the church of Pastoriza by our friend, the Marquesa de S. M., a son carrying it, and heading the procession. Some of the pilgrims were allowed to drive a certain distance, but the last hill, a long one (the whole route from Coruña is hilly), was, of necessity, to be walked.

66

No one can tell how it was that the old head was not replaced; probably the new one, which was well made and modern, was considered more beautiful; be that as it may, the new one was venerated and worshipped, whilst the original-fifteen centuries old-was consigned to the dusty depths of an old chest, where it was discovered by the present priest, who, appreciating its As we neared the village we were antiquity, keeps it carefully covered by struck by the very pretty floral decoraa curtain, only to be shown on especial tions where the road branched off to occasions to the vulgar gaze. This Pastoriza, arches tastefully made and head is exactly the size of the present leading up to the church itself (no little one, is a type of Germanic beauty, the distance), with mottoes descriptive of features good and correct, the color the occasion. The church is a goodwhite and fresh, the wavy hair is col-sized building, and better decorated ored by some curious process; a break- than the generality of village churches; age reveals coat over coat of some there is a very plain but necessary strange composition, almost as hard as 'aviso,” written in its entrance "begthe wood of which it is made, the head ging worshippers to refrain from spitshows signs of having had an "oriol," ting until they go out!" We had or crown on it. secured a balcony overlooking a large Leaving the legendary lore of "Nue- courtyard opposite the church; here stra Señora de Pastoriza," I will now was built, in the courtyard, a tempodescribe the actual pilgrimage. First rary altar and pulpit. After the clanglet me mention that Pastoriza has al- ing of bells, the procession filed up, the ways held its yearly religious fête each archbishop, who had driven, walked to 30th of August; those on sanctity bent the altar; while the ceremony of the perform penances crawling on their host was preparing, an energetic little knees round the church, and in it up curé mounted the pulpit, rang a silver to the altar, climbing a steep hill where bell, said a few words suitable to the the image of the Virgin and Child occasion, then a pause-another tinkle marks the spot where the star is said of the bell a hymn to the Virgin was to have appeared. Still it was thought sung, sadly out of time and tune, greatly the faithful needed more "stirring up,' "to the distress of the curé, judging so a pilgrimage falling on the same from his face; he was evidently muday, and allowing certain privileges, sical, and gifted also with a fine, sonowas ordained. An archbishop, with rous, tuneful voice; another pausė,

another tinkle, then vehement injunc- | sada, lunched heartily from our amtions to prepare for the "Actual Pres-ply provided hamper, then, the rain ence.'

clearing up, we strolled round the vil-
lage and its environs, now character-
istic of a huge fair, with its drinking

etc. After which we climbed the
height to more nearly examine the
cuna de la
Virgen - cradle of the
Virgin. We met many of the pil-
grims, more or less worn-looking,

At about eleven, another preacher ascended the pulpit, and in eloquent words "crying up "the image and down the heretic; we smiled at what

his part, as while denouncing certain countries as "hot-beds" of the unbeliever in images, England was left out. Now again a downpour, the Posada became a scene of rowdyism, and we hastened to drive home, not sorry to leave.

It seems strange that men so gifted

Hundreds of people had by this time crowded in, by no means a reverential crowd, a strange mixture of unbelief booths, its vendors of fruit, bread, etc., and servile bigotry; it was, I think, a showing of the present "free thinking" age creeping in, a loss of faith in mummery, a helpless feeling of no anchorage. The archbishop then gave the sacra-wearily toiling up, still fasting. ment, first to the pilgrims-only one of these was dressed in the actual garb, viz., cloak and hat, decorated with the scallop shell, the staff and gourd, and breast laden with medals, trophies of we felt was a feeling of politeness on pilgrimages. We (the onlookers, as became us - respecters of religion), remained quiet spectators, not so many Roman Catholics; vendors of cooling drinks sold outside the kneelers; in the Posada itself, to which the balcony belonged, came shouts of laughter and singing from merry-makers. After the sacrament, the archbishop as these respective preachers should entered the church to consecrate the banners, then followed a fearful rush. We did not make the attempt, we were told the building was horribly crowded. We were watching a little girl, niece of the parish priest (Pastoriza), with a beautiful banner in her hands, blue and white satin, elaborately embroidered, the child dressed in corresponding colors (the Virgin's); she was anxiously trying to get into the church when We felt instinctively the day was down came the rain, a regular Galician a bitter disappointment to the archdownpour; the poor child was so fretted about her banner, as indeed were the others with their respective ones, but the little woman touched our hearts, "got up " for the occasion, long thought of, undoubtedly; at last she was squeezed into a side door. Meanwhile, the crowd presented a very curious aspect; the opening of hundreds of umbrellas gave the appearance, from our height, of a vast field of dark, animated mushrooms.

SO

At ten o'clock we entered the Po

waste breath in trying to revive a state of superstition instead of generating the fine old simple faith of the New Testament unadulterated! Later on in the day, the Hijas de Maria - Mary's daughters - chanted and sang hymns to the Virgin; these hijas are unmarried women and girls, banded together, and appointed to sing at certain religious festivals.

bishop. Naturally in a crowd of hundreds there are diversities of opinions. The "free-thinkers" made the occasion a cause for demonstrating their ideas, and with mal à propos taste hissed the poor old diguitary. It was well no further harm was done!

Reaching home in good time, we were told we were spared much that was disagreeable both to sight and sound, and I think I have had sufficient experience in pilgrimages!

LOUISA M. RAWSON-WALKER.

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