words to have been no empty boast. | his elevation to the papacy, had made "To judge from his conduct and that an enjoyable affair of life. And yet of his servants," says Politiano, giving here comes in the anomaly - the bell an account of the end, "you would rings, the train stops, and he is as ready have thought that it was they who to take his journey into the unknown momentarily expected that fate from country as any starving beggar in the which he only appeared to be exempt." streets, with nothing to lose and everyThe solitary regret expressed by him thing to gain. We cannot even feel one of those curious irrelevant re- that in his case it is a very serious matgrets so inadequate to the occasion, ter. He sends for the physicians as his and which may be placed beside Col- mortal malady gains upon him, but lingwood's desire to try another fall more with a view to the interest and with the French, and Peterborough's amusement to be derived from their to prove Burnet a liar was that he discussions than for any practical purhad not lived long enough to complete pose, for we find him making a joke the public library. The triviality of of their consultations, and for the rest the reason for which he would have taking his own way and leading his life wished his life prolonged is the meas- as usual, until one evening towards ure of his indifference to death. dusk he quietly closes his accounts with life and takes his way hence. There are, of course, innumerable other examples a cloud of witnesses -whose names will rise at once to the memory, some too familiar to be quote? here, others falling into the same categories as those which have been given, but almost all pointing to the same conclusion-namely, that courage in respect to death when it is near at hand is so general as to come near to being universal, a fact only accentuated b, the sharpness with which exceptions, like that furnished by Robespierre, stand out in the memory. Another contemporary magnate this time an ecclesiastic - furnishes a second example of the same kind. Pope Sixtus the Fifth-the pope to whom the ex-Huguenot Henry of Navarre paid his damning tribute of praise, "I have lost a pope after my own heart" quitted the world, likewise in the height of his power and with every ambition gratified, with as cheerful an unconcern as if he left behind him as little to regret as that young poet subaltern of his who was at that moment lying in his English prison. "A prince should die standing; " he was fond of quoting VespaTo sum up. The fear of death in the sian's maxim, and he carried it out. abstract is a natural instinct, and, being Sixtus had done good work and plenty natural, is doubtless a wholesome one. of it, and had no doubt taken pleas- And this being so, a constant realizaure in his labors. Rome, under his tion of it is scarcely to be desired. It auspices, had become so blameless that is much to be questioned whether, to the post of judge had grown to be a use the imagery of the hymn, the man sinecure. He had, in fact, given the to whose consciousness it was continuimperial city no alternative. Sixtus ally present that his tent was nightly was a masterful man. A "taylor" pitched a day's march nearer to his guilty of boxing the ears of "another grave would be a useful campaigner. person of the samne occupation " was But in point of fact there is no danger sent to the galleys for it. so strict that it will be so. The story is told of was the decorum maintained. "If I a priest who, under sentence of death thought the people would relapse after in days when the penalty was more I was dead, I would hang them all common than now, obtained the priviwhilst I am alive," he is reported lege of preaching to his fellow-convicts to have declared in his business-like, in like case. It is a scene which is practical way. He had filled the pub-repeated in a thousand different places lic coffers, had not neglected his duty every Sunday morning, but it is a hunto his own family, and, especially since dred to one that the situation does not strike either preacher or people un-to Vailima, the home of Robert Louis pleasantly, and you will find each going Stevenson. home to dinner as cheerfully as if Vailima takes its name from vai he carried a special exemption in his (water), lima (five) — as yet only four pocket. It is best so. Not to climb a streams have been discovered; howhill till you come to it is a homely ever, the name is pretty enough to maxim; but it is astonishing how excuse the discrepancy in numbers. much, carried out, it simplifies life. This ideal island home in the heart of You imagine it to be an alp that is bar-the mountain forest has been described ring your way, and when you reach the so often by abler pens than mine that spot it turns out to be a gently rising I need say but little here. On emergground from which you may view the ing from the dense forest the track surrounding country before making a leads on to a plateau and continues for fresh start. And so with death. For a short distance between high hedges midable as it appears from a distance, of limes laden with fruit. Soon a large the more one looks into the subject the wooden gate terminates the path and more certain it becomes that mankind, visitors catch their first glimpse of when brought to a practical acquaint-Vailima. The house is so situated that ance with it, have agreed in some blind it can only be seen from shipboard, way to recognize in the enemy whose approaches they have been so unremitting in their efforts to ward off something altogether different from the terrible and hostile force which they have been accustomed to consider it. "We fall on guard, and after all it is a friend who comes to meet us," and a friend bringing in his hands From The Cornhill Magazine. WITH R. L. STEVENSON IN SAMOA. In a cleared and when well to sea. Passing through In the old section of the house there are no passages; all the rooms open Two miles of good road lead straight with sliding doors on to the verandah; inland from the beach at Apia, and is an outside staircase leads to an upper followed by a few miles of track which verandah from which a magnificent winds up the mountains, and in many view is to be had. First, across the places resembles a dry watercourse green lawn, then over the tops of more than anything else. It widens to feathery-branched palm-trees, tall fuaseveral yards broad; it narrows to fuas, laden with pink blossoms, and about two or three feet; it does every-dark-leaved bread-fruit-trees, and away thing a road can do to be fantastic; beyond a great stretch of the blue and when the rain falls in a short space it is a veritable torrent. This is the road that winds up through the forest Pacific - brilliant as sapphires and merging into turquoise where sky and ocean meet. From this verandah opens cur " the library, a delightful place, lined | mummy apple, and the tuia, a darkwith books, and piles of them lying plumaged starling, joined in with melon the floor, the chairs, and tables. low voice. Among the forest trees Things are certainly allowed to "oc- many species of doves flitted from here; any attempt at order branch to branch, their beautiful pluwould be but coldly received. The mage-green, pink, white, purple, and only other room on this floor is a grey-showing clearly against the large apartment hung with tapa (native sombre foliage. Later, as the sun grew cloth), and many wonderful curios and more powerful, the senga, an exquisite reminiscences scattered about of our little parakeet, with feathers of the hostess's wanderings in the South gayest-green, blue, crimson, purple, Seas. This, during our visit, was and yellow came chattering by in used as a guest chamber, for it was pairs, and might be seen clinging to the room allotted to us, when, after the fruit-blossoms from which they Christmas, we paid a long visit to sucked the nectar; and overhead the Vailima. The new wing, which was tropic birds, sailing in wide circles, completed while we were there, begins their snowy plumage and long red tail with a large hall panelled throughout feathers (the latter a distinguishing with dark, polished wood, and a broad feature in the headdress of certain Sastaircase leads out of it to the rooms moan chiefs) showing distinctly against above. The plantations of cacao, taro | the blue sky. swamps, and banana groves, all stretch away in the clearings of the forest at the back of the house; where, also enclosed within wire fencing and high hedges, is the kitchen garden, planned and planted under Mrs. Stevenson's particular care and direction, and wherein among other things were tomatoes, and that most delicious of vegetables the egg-fruit, which here grew to perfection. Mr. Stevenson and his family receive their friends on the verandah, generally bare-footed, always bare-headed, and clad in loose garments suitable to the climate. A number of happy, guileless looking retainers clad in Stuart tartan lava-lavas, the Vailima livery, group themselves about, suitably filling in a picturesque background. Those were the "house boys," all characters and all good Samoans. There are a host of "outdoor boys" too, who work on the plantations and look after the horses and cows. They became visible from time to time, especially in the evening when Mrs. Stevenson's son and daughter and I used to play guitar, mandoline, and banjo. This fascinated the natives, and they appeared in twos and threes out of the darkness till there was quite a crowd sitting on the verandah keeping time to the music; and they always took care to encourage us with the most outrageous flattery of which they thoroughly appreciated the humor. The upper verandah, which overlooked garden, plantations, and a wide stretch of forest, was an excellent point of vantage from which to watch the innumerable wild birds that came to feed on nutmegs and other tropical fruits. As day dawned and the light crept over mountain and forest, the veha, a little rail with mottled black and brown plumage, would emerge from the bushes and warily creep across the grass, picking up insects here. and there, but on the slightest alarm would stand motionless or squat close to the ground- always near a brown leaf or a stone, and was then as About the middle of November a invisible as our own ptarmigan under fête was held at Vailima to celebrate similar conditions. Then as the sun the birthday of the poet and novelist, flashed his first beams on dew-laden and it was characteristic of the host tree and flower, the clear, liquid note of the jao (wattled honey-eater) was heard, and he and his mate might be seen busy among the blossoms of the that the gathering consisted almost entirely of natives, very few white people being present. It had been a raging storm of wind and rain all day, Scattered about everywhere but towards evening the rain ceased | name. and the wind fell; nevertheless it was were clusters of scarlet and cream-colfortunate that we had been invited to ored hibiscus blossom, yellow allaremain all night as the road was re- manda, and fragrant sweet-scented duced to a deplorable condition. After ginger; the posts of the house even a hearty welcome from Mr. and Mrs. being decorated with hibiscus and Stevenson, who were surrounded by frangipani with an art of which the native chiefs, their wives, etc., and a Samoan is master. drink of kava, we were carried away to be suitably decorated for the feast. Ropes of many colored, sweet-smelling flowers were twisted round our necks and waists, and wreaths placed on our heads. Every one was decked out in like manner our host wearing his wreath of white jessamine with grace and distinction as if to the manner born. After having enjoyed the prawns, and in the absence of serviettes, were wondering what was to happen next, we were quite reassured by the appearance of the boys, who knelt with a basin of water and napkin beside each guest. Then the feast proceeded right merrily. Every one talked, and the pretty vivacious native girls laughed at the ignorance displayed by the few strangers in their lack of knowledge of what was good to eat and how to do it, and they spared no pains in instructing them. It was our first acquaintance with the versatile taro. There was When all was ready there was some debate in the household as to the correct procedure, according to native courtesy, for the guests to go into the feast spread in a large native house which had just been completed. At taro-root baked like potatoes, taro-root last the intricacies of the Samoan eti- minced and beaten up with cocoanut quette were solved, and away we all milk, and palousame, a great delicacy, trooped, Mr. Stevenson leading the made from the taro leaves and cocoaway with his wife. Coming out of the nut cream. Then a mysterious dish, darkness into the blaze of torchlight a or rather leaf, was handed round which quaintly fantastic sight met our eyes. the Europeans treated coldly, but A native house thatched with branches which was received with marked disof cocoanut palms, layers of palm tinction by the natives. It was a sadleaves on the floor, and those again colored filmy mass, and was considered covered by many finely woven tawny- a great treat, as it consisted of green colored mats. It was difficult to be- worms (palolo), that appear in the sea lieve that the mass of coloring which at certain intervals according to the lay from five to six feet wide on the state of the moon. From time to time ground and stretched from end to end cocoanuts with the tops knocked off of the house was the feast; and it was were presented, and we drank out of only when we had arranged ourselves them and passed them on. At intercross-legged on mats and our eyes be- vals fresh banana leaves were handed came accustomed to the light that we to the guests, and by the time the banrealized the gigantic quantity of food quet was half completed it was found thus spread out. It was entirely a how unnecessary plates were, and native banquet, everything cooked and there might not be a knife or fork in eaten faa Samoa (à la Samoan!) and creation for all any one cared! As for all the eatables laid on banana leaves. French chefs well, nobody ever enThere were dozens of pigs varying joyed a dinner more than the strangers in size from a rabbit to a sofa, the from far away "Peretania" appreciated latter being the centre piece; quanti-the pleasure of being made welcome at ties of chickens and ducks, every kind such a delightful feast. of native fruit and vegetable, and before each guest a leaf of large pink prawns which are plentiful in the waters from which Vailima takes its When every one had thoroughly enjoyed the island fare, a few appropriate speeches were made. A chief who sat at the foot of the, well-the board rows after proposing the health of Tusi- | might "give out" or the flour might tala (the teller of stories), who replied "give out," but their tobacco! in a few kindly words to his island As we sat there, every few minutes friends, commenced the function of picturesque natives flitted across sending round the kava. He would through the blackness, lighting their make no mistake about the order in way with torches; all were smiling and which it should be served. The large excited with the important business on kava bowl was placed before him, and hand. When a deputation of natives taking a small bowl of polished cocoa- announced that the arrangements were nut, filled it with kava while he chanted completed, we adjourned to another in a loud voice to whom it was to be native house, smaller than the one in taken. It was to Tusitala, who clapped which the banquet was held. The his hands while the servitor took it to ground was thickly strewn with mats, him. Before drinking, he held up the and at one side a raised platform was basin, and looking towards his guests, erected on which were about a dozen said Ia manuia! (Here's to you !) to natives, all in very gala attire, their which every one answered Soi fua ! bodies polished and shining with cocoa(May you live long!) Next it was nut oil, and wearing wreaths and garpassed to Mrs. Louis Stevenson, the lands of hibiscus blossom, their hair same formula of Ia manuia and Soi oiled and elaborately combed out. fua always being repeated; then to They sat in two man and Mrs. Stevenson, our host's mother, a woman alternately and behind sat clever, delightful old Scotch lady, who some few who beat drums and chanted heartily toasted all present. Soon the along with the principals in front. We chief shouted in Samoan it was for the all sat on the floor, the tobacco was new great lady," and the cup was passed round, and we gave ourselves up taken to my friend. Then he ordered to the enjoyment of witnessing the siva the kava to be carried to Matalanu- or native dance. They chanted extemmoana, and while we speculated as to pore verses concerning all present, who that could be, it was brought smil- swaying their supple bodies to the ingly to me. On inquiring what that rhythm, moving their hands and arms meant, it was translated as "the fair in lithe fantastic movements, now fast, young stranger with blue eyes from now slow, and as far as possible illusover the seas!" and to the end of our trating by their actions the bulk of the sojourn in Samoa that name stuck to songs. When the first part was over me, the smallest children rolling it they rose, and the principal actors out! When the kava had been served separately went through whole scenes to every one, we returned to the ve- in pantomime illustrative of playing a randah, while there were mysterious long game of cricket, rowing, and preparations among the natives, of suffering the pangs of starvation. This which we were supposed to know noth-latter was realistically portrayed, and, ing, for another surprise in honor of their loved Tusitala. The time was passed pleasantly chatting, and nearly every one smoking cigarettes. finally, when the sufferer was fortunate enough to procure food (a banana) he was so far gone that he could not eat. The idea was cleverly carried out. At Vailima all are inveterate smok- When the performance was endeders, and all scorn to smoke anything at least, when Tusitala suggested it but cigarettes made by themselves of was for the Samoans would have contheir own American tobacco, and as tinued with repetitions for hours longer Louis Stevenson remarked, "We are -we gave the actors a hearty cheer, slaves to our own special brand." and, shaking hands with each one, They had a terrible reminiscence of thanked them cordially for their pains. having run out of their tobacco for, I Then we picked our way through the think, two days, while cruising on dew-laden grass to Vailima, and the board their yacht the Casco. The beef horses were brought round. There |