fjeld on either side. The pass over which | but infiltrated with a certain amount of we had to ride is about fifteen hundred mineral matter; over it lie enormous feet high, and in the month of June the masses of basaltic rock. "divide " Iwas still blocked with snow. This snow was hard enough to bear a man or a pony, but in many places it would give way beneath them, when both on the same set of feet, and in consequence the captain and I did a good deal of walking. The old guide, however, stuck to his steed, except when obliged to cross a torrent on a precarious bridge of snow, and they managed to flounder triumphantly through all difficulties. An Icelander in riding uses neither whip nor spur, but works his arms and legs perpetually like the sails of a windmill, and can thus keep his pony moving at a pace which leaves the foreigner far in the rear. On the quiet waters of the fjord the eider-ducks were taking their newlyhatched broods for a first swim, and as we scrambled up the fjeld, the cock ptarmigan fluttered and croaked over our heads, according to his habit when the hen is sitting upon eggs. The region of forests, represented by dwarf birches and whortleberries, is soon left behind, and near the summit of the pass there is hardly any vegetation of a higher order than Icelandic moss, while the bare rocks are profusely marked with striations from glaciers that have long since disappeared. Descending towards the head of a small salt-water loch or firth, the Súgandafjörthr, we came upon a little herd of piebald and cream-colored ponies, and soon afterwards reached the solitary farm of this remote and desolate region. Frowning black precipices enclose the little land-locked bay, and the scanty pastures upon its shores, so as apparently to cut off all communication with the outer world; and in winter, when snow lies deep on the fjeld, and ice blocks up the fjord, the inhabitants of this lonely glen are indeed thrown very much upon their own resources. Even in summer a visitor is a very rare bird indeed, and the sight of a Danish gentleman is as strange to these simple folk as that of an Englishman, so that our arrival excited intense interest. A dreng (boy) was told off to show us the spot where the Surturbrandr has been exposed by the action of a mountain torrent, about four hundred feet above the sea. The lignite is in thin layers, mixed with slaty rock; it is partly carbonized, partly in the condition of ordinary wood, with the bark still adhering, Returning to the farm we ate our luncheon, sharing it with the admiring crowd of youngsters - Gisli, Hjalmar, Thora, Gudrun, etc.—who surrounded us. Like the modern Greeks, the Icelanders delight in naming their children after men and women whose names are associated with the heroic period of their country's his tory. It was quite touching to witness the delight of these children at seeing certain pictures of the Illustrated London News, in which our food had been packed. We gave them both the papers and their contents; but, although hardboiled eggs and ham sandwiches must have been rare dainties to them, the elder children evidently thought far more of the pictures, and pounced upon these with the eager love of knowledge conspicuous in Icelanders, who are full of admiration at the sight of things new and strange a characteristic of intelligent races all the world over. We could only regret that so much capacity for intellectual enjoyment should be wasted in this wilderness, and that we had nothing better to give them in the way of literature than fragments of a foreign newspaper. All the able-bodied men were absent from home, engaged either in fishing or looking after sheep; but their wives did the honors of the place, and supplied us with hot coffee. On their invitation we inspected the interior of their dweling, which externally looks like a mere heap of stones and turf, with a chimney and one or two panes of glass. On the ground floor are the eldhús ("fire-house " or kitchen), and store-rooms, all very dark and dirty. The family residence is in the bathstofa ("bath-room," a sad misnomer at the present day), which is reached by means of a ladder, and is dimly lighted, but not ventilated, by a small window hermetically closed. Here, in a lowroofed, narrow garret, is the abode of the whole clan, numbering some five-andtwenty souls of every age and either sex. Along the sides of the room are placed the beds, but the obscurity - which was increased by the festoons of stockings and other garments suspended from the rafters-at first prevented our making out whether these were occupied or not. Our eyes became accustomed to the lack of light more readily than our nostrils to the lack of fresh air, and we gradually discovered the inmates of the apartment. On one bed sat a blind old woman | sorry to be excused upon the present knitting, with an old man, her husband occasion. It was otherwise at Reykjavik, and the patriarch of the family, seated where a pretty little stulka (young lady), beside her; he received us politely, and running out into the street, persuaded me entered into conversation in Danish, to come in and look at specimens of her which is a foreign language in Iceland, embroidery in gold and silver thread; of but is generally understood throughout course I bought one, and she shook hands the island. On the opposite bed one of with me cordially upon the bargain, but I the younger women disclosed to our view, should have preferred in that case the with maternal pride, a pretty little sleep- Icelandic salute. As a matter of fact, ing pige (girl), and in a cradle alongside however, it is between men that this form lay another new-born infant. From a of greeting is most common, and in so particularly dark corner proceeded sounds democratic a country it is peculiarly inof feeble moaning, and on closer inspec- convenient. I have been greatly amused tion we were able to make out that these at witnessing the annoyance of an acproceeded from a very old woman, evi- complished and reverend gentleman, just dently as near to the close of her life as returned to his native shores from a trip the two infants were to the commence- to Scotland and Denmark, when a snuffy ment of theirs-"Last stage of all, that old fisherman attempted to kiss him in ends this sad eventful history." Thus the street: he availed himself of his supewithin this narrow space the seven ages rior stature, and pretended not to notice of man were all represented, most of them that his humble friend wished thus to by the female sex only, as there was no testify his esteem for the parson. male on the premises intermediate in age between the school-boy and the "slippered pantaloon." At the door of the only human habitation passed in the course of to-day's ride between Isafjörthr and Súgandafjörthr we saw an old man of eighty basking in the sun; and altogether it is clear that crowded, unwholesome dwellings, together with a somewhat free indulgence in stimulants, and a very severe climate, do not prevent the hardy Icelanders from attaining a good old age. The discomfort of living in such a hovel amidst damp, darkness, and evil smells can hardly be surpassed, and yet our friends at Súgandafjörthr must not be regarded as really poor. They possess plenty of live stock in the form of ponies and sheep, they have always enough to eat, they are warmly clothed, and they can even indulge in such exotic luxuries as snuff, coffee, and loaf They might easily build better habitations, following the example of the Danish merchants and other settlers, whose clean, airy houses, adorned with flowers and pictures, present a striking contrast to those of their Icelandic neighbors. But the modern Icelander prefers the rude architecture of his ancestors; he therefore continues to build in a style which enables one to realize at the present day the domestic economy of a Sutherland "Pict's house." We parted after a general hand-shaking with old and young; kissing is a customary salutation in Iceland, but from this, under all the circumstances, we were not Perhaps in no country is social equality more complete than in Iceland; the priest indeed enjoys a certain rank and distinction, along with the title of "Sira," but even the governor himself, whose office is one of power as well as of dignity, is liable to have his hand grasped by farmer or fisherman with the familiar inquiry: "How are you, Finsen?" Nothing peculiar in the way of national costume is now worn in Iceland by men, except that they encase their hands in woollen mittens with double thumbs, and their feet in moccasins and leggings of untanned sheepskin. The women, however, invariably wear a small cap of black cloth with a long silken tassel ornamented in gold or silver. This cap is worn jauntily on one side, and is fastened with pins to the hair, which is plaited around the head in elaborate loops and coils. As the hair is usually fair and abundant, this forms a very becoming headdress; but out of doors it is concealed by a dark shawl wrapped round the head and partially veiling the face. The analogies between Iceland and Greece are numerous and striking, unlike as the two countries at first sight appear, and it is remarkable that the Athenian bourgeoise wears a cap almost identical, except in its red color, with that worn by Icelandic women of all classes. Travelling is similar in Greece and in Iceland-both countries are devoid of roads, and are much intersected with arms of the sea; in both locomotion involves long rides among barren mountains, and the total absence of inns, except birds are to be seen by hundreds, swimming and fluttering about their island home, or squatted upon its shores in conscious security from the foxes, which infest the mainland. at a few points on the sea-coast, makes | little pandel-stad, or trading station, if the traveller dependent upon his own there is a convenient island, there is sure resources, or upon the hospitality of the to be a colony of eider-ducks, and the country people. As I happened to visit both Iceland and Greece within the space of a few months, the analogy between them was to me peculiarly striking; and in both countries my otherwise solitary rides were enlivened by the company of a first-class specimen of the native youth acting as guide and interpreter. Of each it may be truly said that he was a good scholar, speaking several languages fluently, familiar with the history and literature of his country, proud of its fame in the past, and zealous for its interests in the present and future. It would be absurd to compare the ancient fame of Iceland with that of Greece-in arts, in arms, and in song, Hellas stands pre-eminent; but even in the far north gallant deeds and poetic genius have made classic ground of almost every habitable spot, and, like the cultivated Greek, the Icelander lives much in the past, knowing well that, whatever benefits the future may have in store for his race, it can never again occupy its former conspicuous position upon the world's stage. Although patriotic natives have styled Iceland "the best country on which the sun shines," it must be regarded by impartial strangers as one of the worst that has ever been inhabited by civilized human beings. Peopled originally by some of the boldest and most energetic individuals of a peculiarly bold and energetic race, it "shone, a northern light, when all was gloom around." All the natural disadvantages of their situation were insufficient to quell the spirit of the Icelanders, so long as their dependence was on themselves alone, but it cannot be denied that their energy has diminished under foreign rule. The language, laws, and traditions of Iceland are distinct from those of Denmark, and it is too remote in situation to be governed properly as an integral portion of the Danish kingdom. So remote is it, without a telegraph cable, and with infrequent mail steamers, that during a summer month, spent there at the time of a European crisis, no news reached us from the outside world, and no one in the island knew whether there was peace or war in Europe. In a county so poor as Iceland the down of the eider-duck is an appreciable | source of wealth, and the bird has been practically domesticated. Close to every The eider-ducks are protected all the year round under heavy penalties, being the only birds enjoying legal protection in Iceland, and they prefer the neighborhood of human habitations for their breeding places. From the largest of these duckeries " as much as 300/. is cleared annually, the down being worth about a sovereign per pound on an average; but we were surprised to hear that its value was a little depressed in 1878, owing to the war in Turkey. The ducks make their nests among the rough hummocks, characteristic of all grass-land in Iceland, laying their large, olive-green eggs upon neat little beds of down, "so soft and brown." They are perfectly tame, allowing themselves to be lifted off their eggs and replaced, with only a few querulous notes of remonstrance, or they will flop slowly and heavily away for a few yards on the approach of an intruder, waddling hastily back_as soon as he retires. The duck is of a mottled gray and brown color, and is hardly to be distinguished at a short distance, when squatted upon her nest; it is she who furnishes the precious down. The drake, on the contrary, has a showy black and white plumage, and is a remarkably conspicuous bird; he is not so tame as his mate, and has an easy time of it, while she is attending to her domestic duties. When the nest, however, has been repeatedly robbed of the down, and the poor duck finds difficulty in replacing it, the drake comes to the rescue, and recognizes his paternal responsibility by furnishing a supply of down from his own breast. Iceland is a pleasant country in which to spend a month of summer, when there is no darkness, and when the longest riding expeditions may be undertaken without any fear of being benighted. The midnight sun may be seen resting on the surface of the Arctic Ocean, not hasting to go down, nor up, and diffusing over mountain and glacier for hours together those tints of purple and gold which in lower latitudes last only for a few minutes at sunrise or sunset. Such a spectacle is alone well worth a visit to Iceland, although ice fogs render it almost prepared to fell the forests and till the prairies of the American interior. The Icelanders were the first Europeans to set foot in the New World, five hundred years before its re-discovery by the great Genoese; but they failed at that time to establish permanent colonies, possibly from the same causes which even now tend to disqualify them for being successful American settlers. as rare as an eruption of the Great Gey- the cultivation of the soil. A population ser, and he may be considered a lucky of fishermen and shepherds from the visitor who sees the midnight sun. A coasts of a treeless land is certainly ill day among the floating ice-fields, covering the sea as far as the eye can reach, and blocking up the entrance to the northern fjords, is a novel experience for a stranger from the south; and as the steamer slowly winds her way along, seeking an open channel between the brilliant bluegreen edges of the broken ice, an idea may be gained as to what an arctic voyage is like. The people of Iceland are intelligent, cultivated, and kindly: there are barely seventy thousand of them scattered over an area equal to two-thirds of England and Wales, yet they can boast of many learned men, and several poets now living. In this respect no community of equal numbers can rival them, and they deserve all praise for their gallant struggle with nature, under a hostile sky, and on an ungrateful soil. Like other races who are much exposed to inclement seasons "and churlish chiding of the winter's wind" the Icelanders have a certain harshness of feature, but there is a very pleasing expression in their weather-beaten faces and frank blue eyes. In a sparsely peopled country, without public-houses of any sort, hospitality is a necessary virtue, and the Icelanders are hospitable to all comers, as Draining and imported hay might ena- far as their means will permit. But to ble the Icelanders to increase the number those who happen to live near much-freof their permanent live stock to a consid- quented tracks the burden of hospitality erable extent; but it is to the water rather would be ruinous were it not customary than to the land that they must look for for them to accept a pecuniary present increased prosperity. Fish of all sorts, from such guests as are well able to afford including salmon, are Iceland's best and it. From foreign visitors a present is most certain crop - a crop which is not always expected, although it is never defully reaped by the inhabitants of the manded, and it is customary on taking island, partly owing to the want of decked leave for the guest to hand a few marks vessels adapted for deep-sea fishing, partly to his host with a polite "Vær saa god!" because the "truck " system prevails, (Be so good, or if you please). Mange and the fish cannot be sold on the spot Tak!" (Many thanks!) is the usual reply, for ready money. Fleets of large fishing- with a warm grasp of the hand, but not boats spend the summer months at work without a careful inspection of the coin. off the coasts of Iceland, but these are The fare at an Icelandic bar or farm is chiefly French or English. Norwegian often frugal enough, but the traveller may colors are frequently to be seen in Ice- count at least upon a draught of delicious landic harbors, as they are in every part milk, and need never scruple to ask for of the globe; but the Icelanders them- it. Unless he is invited to enter, he will selves have ceased to be a sea-faring drink it as a stirrup cup outside the door; people, and rarely own anything more for Icelandic etiquette forbids a stranger. seaworthy than an open boat. They have to walk into a house without an express recently been relieved from an oppressive request. During the months when there commercial monopoly which enriched a handful of Copenhagen merchants at their expense, and they are beginning to enter into trade; their lack of capital is at present a serious impediment, but may be got over by the formation of co-operative companies. Emigration to British North America has been attempted on a considerable scale, under the auspices of the Canadian government; but the results have not been altogether encouraging, as might perhaps have been expected, when persons altogether unacquainted with agriculture were suddenly transferred to a country where they could only thrive by is no darkness in Iceland, midnight arrivals are of freqent occurrence: the numerous dogs, reposing on the grassy roofs of the parsonage or farmhouse, soon arouse the inmates by a noisy greeting to the travellers, and preparations are made for their reception in the guestchamber or in the church, if there is one close by. The church is utilized for a variety of secular purposes, frequently as a storehouse for the parson's wool, and as regards air and light is usually a preferable bed-room to the guest-chamber of the establishment; being built entirely of wood, without any turf on the roof, it is also much drier than ordinary Icelandic | alternately, while the loose horses and habitations. On one occasion we arrived, a party of three, at midnight, and found no one stirring about the farm except a woman, who was a watching the cattle in the home field or tún. Being invited into the house, we entered the usual dark passage, sliding and stumbling over the slippery and uneven pavement, and knocking our heads against the low beams of the roof. The guest-chamber contained only one bed, which the good woman at once proceeded to arrange for us all three to sleep in, heads and tails, like herrings in a barrel. Two of us being tall and one stout, while the bed was both short and narrow, it was clear that this arrangement would not be suitable; but politeness sealed our mouths, and we solemnly watched her operations, as she spread the couch with pillows at both ends, and removed from its interior a great variety of household articles, for which it was used as a general receptacle. As soon as she had retired our suppressed merriment burst forth, and we soon dragged bedding and eiderdown quilts off the bed enough to make two lairs in other parts of the room. Although we were of various nationalities (a Dane, an American, and an Englishman), and had all three travelled much and roughed it in many countries, we had never elsewhere witnessed similar bed-making nor seen a bedstead used instead of a wardrobe and cupboard. A gun and a fishing-rod may come into real use during a ride in Iceland: ptarmigan and golden plover abound on the fells and heaths, and furnish a very agreeable addition to the traveller's fare, even when simply cooked in a boiling spring; the same may be said of the lake char, which are remarkably fine. A light tent with a couple of waterproof blankets can easily be carried by a single pony, and will make the traveller independent, even of churches, as regards sleep: occasionally a tent is offered by a farmer to a foreign visitor, and if he accepts it, he will probably find, on comparing notes, that he has had more untroubled repose outside than his guide inside the house. Besides this equipment nothing is required except a couple of stout boxes of native manufacture, to be fastened like panniers upon a pony, and warranted to stand any amount of knocking about. In order to travel with speed and comfort, each horseman requires a couple of ponies, which are saddled and ridden those carrying the baggage are driven forward in a little herd, with shouts and cracking of whips. Spurs are unknown, and an Icelandic whip is certainly a most humane invention, with a thin leather strap for a thong, and devoid altogether of a lash; the ponies despise it utterly, and although it makes a noise, it evidently does not hurt. Hearing a loud sound of blows on one occasion about twelve o'clock at night, I looked out of the window, and saw our host angrily belaboring a man with a riding-whip; the individual assailed made no attempt to retaliate, hardly even to ward off the blows, receiving each with a mild ejaculation of "Nei!" Outside the little town of Reykjavík there are no roads, merely tracks, worn deeply by the feet of ponies in soft peat, or in hard lava, but among loose stones marked out with cairns known as "old women" (kerlingar). Along these tracks the ponies pick their way with singular intelligence, invariably selecting the safest place for crossing a heithi (boggy heath), a hraun (lava stream), a river, or a snowdrift. Accustomed from his birth to find his own way over his wild mountain pastures, an Iceland pony is so clever and sure-footed as to give his rider a sense of security, even in the most awkward places, and if left to himself he will never make a mistake. He is as cautious as an elephant, snuffing at every suspicious place, and testing it with his forefoot; if dissatisfied, nothing will induce him to proceed, and he turns aside to search for a safer way, being particularly on his guard when crossing water upon a bridge of snow, or when in the neighborhood of boiling springs. Even where the ground was roughest I have not hesitated to throw the bridle on the pony's neck, and open a knife in order to scrape certain cartridges too large for the rifle which I carried under my arm. The gallant little beast picks his way rapidly over all obstacles, like the sturdy Stulka, who can knit and stare at the passing stranger, while she strides along over hraun and heithi, as if she were a shaven lawn. Boggy ground is to a horseman always a very troublesome obstacle; but so remarkably dry was the country in June 1878, that bogs could be avoided, and we were a good deal annoyed by dust and drifting sand. The ponies got nothing to eat, except the scanty herbage by the wayside, and were much disposed to linger, wherever they on |