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crime to crime, till they deserve death, be. I about to give an account of the earth. cause, if they had been sooner prosecuted, quake from personal knowledge or expe. they would have suffered death before rience of its effects, that I was in En. they deserved it.” Whereas, "if those glaod on the day it occurred, and that I whom the wisdom of our laws las con- left Casamicciola on my way home some demned to die had been detected in their eight or nine days sooner than I had rudiments of robbery, they might, by intended to start on my journey, in conse. proper discipline and useful Jabor, have quence of a circumstance which I shall been disentangled from their habits; they not call “ providential,” considering that might have escaped all the temptation to many good people were overwhelmed in subsequent crimes, and passed their days the ruin I escaped. But the news of that in reparation and penitence.” More than catastrophe produced on me an effect, sixty years after Johnson thus lifted up which may indeed be weakened in time, if his voice against " this periodical havock I live, but which can never be effaced of our fellow-creatures,” Romilly was try- from my mind as long as memory en. ing, and, it long seemed, trying in vain, io dures. It is an effect I cannot describe. convince the lord chancellor, the lord I know that awe and pity are of it, but chief justice, the king's sons, archbishops, that, in the thoughts of the fearful doom and bishops, that a poor wretch who had of those I saw so lately for the last time, stolen goods to the amount of five shil. I cannot, strange as it may appear, aclings privately from a shop had done noth knowledge the existence of the smallest ing worthy of death.
feeling of that which is called “thankfulWe should have liked to give instances ness" for what should be considered an of what Macaulay so well describes as escape from almost certain death. And “the solemn yet pleasing humor of some of yet I cannot pretend to say that I am the lighter papers." We should have liked, sorry I was not there. Who could ? moreover, to consider some of the pecul- who can say he would have borne the iarities of language and of style. But our ordeal when the earth heaved like a space is at an end. We can only give stormy sea, and in the quarter of a minutterance to the hope that the attention of ute the wreck of matter and the crash of many a reader may be roused to what worlds were realized to the victims of “ The Rambler" has left behind him the caprice of the earthquake? “ Imnthose memorials, to use his own beautiful pavidum ferient ruina" indeed! No! words, of lonely wisdom and silent dig. Man of woman born must fear at such a nity.
moment. The bravest surely uttered a despairing cry in the short, sharp agony wherein creation seemed to come to chaos, and the great globe itself to crash out in
thunder and fire the requiem of Nature From The Nineteenth Century.
herself - the utterance of the awful sen.
tence of an angry and inplacable God, ere I AM not sure whether I ought to write be destroyed his handiwork. an account of my impressions of Ischia, On my way from Egypt to England, formed during a visit which was brought last June, I landed at Naples for a few to a close only a few days before the aw- days' rest. The first news which I read ful convulsion that, in a very narrow area, in the papers at the Hôtel des Etrangers and in the space of a few seconds, de there, was that an outbreak of cholera had stroyed so many thousands of lives. A occurred at Damielta after I had left, and passenger in a ship, which was wrecked the next steamer that came into the bay soon after he had been landed from it from Alexandria displayed the yellow flag safely in port is scarcely justified in ob- at the main, and was sent off incontinently truding upon the world a narrative of the to quarantine at Nisita. voyage before the vessel foundered; but Very soon after iny arrival at Naples, he may be pardoned is, moved by affec. in the course of excursions to Castellationaté remembrance of those in whose mare, Pompeii, and Vesuvius, I was inade society he passed so many pleasant hours, aware of an increasing inability to use my he ventures to think that the public, who legs with freedom, which I attributed to an have been shocked by their terrible fate, accident in the Transvaal, to gout, and to would like to learn something about the rbeumatism, rather than to what perhaps passengers and crew. I must, however, was in some degree responsible for itwarn those who might suppose, from the annus domini; and so lamenting, as I words at the top of the page, that I am | walked with a friend along the quay one
MEMORIES OF ISCHIA.
afternoon, I was asked abruptly, “Why the band of the 18th Regiment of Infan. on earth don't you go and try the baths try, which had been assisting at some fête at Ischia? I know dozens of fellows who on shore, was on board returning to the have been set up by them - Admiral headquarters of the regiment at the Cas. Smith, Pickles, Jack Jones of the Blues" tle of Ischia. - and so on.
I shall not venture to describe the Ischia, somehow or other, was not shores of the well-beaten sea which has within a measurable distance of my little been for so many centuries traversed by expeditions from Naples. But in the hall the fleets and navies of the world; or exof the hotel there were spirited sketches patiate on the beauties of Baiæ, Pozzuoli, of the little group of islands which lies or Misenum. Bumping over the bright off the northern point of the bay; and in blue waves, threading the intricacies of going to Capri one can just catch the pic- the webs of great tunny-nets watched by turesque outlines of Ischia and Procida, the lumbering boats at anchor with ibeir broken off abruptly, as it were, from the sleeping fishermen, who, roused up by the Misenian Cape. However, I did not care noise of the paddles, take a stare at the much to visit the Castle of Alfonso of steamer, and then sink back again, to Aragon, or to verify the accuracy of Stan- i rest until the time comes for them to visit field's admirable picture or of David the camera de inorte, in about an hour and Roberts's drawing. So I went to a half we rounded the point and port of Rome, and there I soon became con the island of Procida, whistling and blowvinced that, whatever the cause of the ing off steam all the while, and for the lameness and pain by which I was affected time effectually overwhelming the terrible lect the waters near at hand, which, every» i brass band of the 18th, which certainly might be, it would not be prudent to ney. was more suitable for the field of battle one assured me, were all but omnipotent and war's alarms than for the narrow in the removal of such disabilities as those deck of the “Leone." . As soon as we had from which I was suffering.
discharged some passengers we left ProThe placards and notices which invited cida, and in less than half an hour the the Neapolitan and general public to re- steamer entered the port of the neighbor. sort to Ischia in the heat of the summer ing island. At Ischia the musical war– which was now felt in great intensity — riors were transferred to boats, and many generally contained Aattering allusions to of our fellow-passengers got out. Looking the excellency of La Piccola Sentinella round on the deck, somewhat cleared by at Casamicciola, and the advertisements the departure of the Italian families for ad hoc generally ended with an intimation Ischia, I could only detect two of the pasthat Signora Dombré, the proprietress, sengers whose nationality seemed very was an English woman. Accordingly, to well defined. They were undoubtedly her I addressed a letter for a room, from English. A lady, with a soft, melancholy Rome, and by return was informed that face, neatly dressed, was seated in an easythe Piccola Sentinella was full, but that chair, with that air of languor which indi. there was nevertheless a room at my dis-cates the invalid who is seeking health, or posal if I wished to decide swiftly on re. recovering from a severe illness. By her taining it.
side there was a fair young girl, whose There are two rival lines of steamers bright blue eye and cheeks suffused with from the port of Naples to the islands, bealth presented a strong contrast to the and the unwary traveller is the object of appearance of the lady who was evidently much contention – of which probably he her mother. How little do we know what is unconscious - to hotel touts and boat the hour that is to come may bring forth! men engaged in promoting the interests of Some trifling attention which I paid to the these contending navigations. I believe elder lady, in adjusting her chair so as to I succeeded, more by chance than by good keep it a little better amidships, to save guidance, in selecting the better of the her from the effect of a slight sea-way ofi two steamers, which start every morning Misenum, commenced the acquaintance from the inner harbor near the Custom which will cause me to retain forever the house. There was a heterogeneous as- sorrowful memory of the terrible fate of semblage of tradespeople and ordinary my temporary companions. travellers – visitors to the islands for I find that I described the town of health or pleasure – and a gathering of Ischia in my diary as a “compound look. fishermen and their wives and daughters, ing place, like Folkestone-cum-Dover, and peasants engaged in the fruit, olive, dominated by a magnificent pile – a cas. and grape trade, on deck; and, moreover, I tellated barrack, covered ways, and draw.
bridges, and all the appurtenances of a natural enemies of Mr. Bright and man. vast mediæval fortress, perched on a rock kind — the uniformed Custom-house sol. at the end of the island, and approached dier, with sword and bayonet - await by a causeway through the sea.”
The steamer remained but a few min. Escaping scathless through the inquisi. utes in the harbor of Ischia, and shooting tions of the Custom-house officers, and out by the lighthouse at the end of the asserting my right of way notwithstandlittle pier after a short way, turned the ing the fierce opposition of many of the corner, so to speak, and ran close to the local vetturini, I toiled up the steep ascoast, which is frowning with almost per- i cent for the hotel which I knew I could pendicular cliffs, perforated with caves, not miss, most of my fellow-passengers and seamed with fissures up to the mar- preferring the doubtful honor of seats in gin of the vegetation, which, in waves of the crazy vehicles which, by long détours, fruit-trees, olives, and grapes, sweeps up reached the same point. I did not gain to the base of Mount Epomeo, presenting the hotel without some encounters with terraces dotted with white villas, a pros- beggars, touts, guides, and proprietors of pect delightfully fresh 10 the eye. The carriages and asses who sought to engage land, mounting in sharp waves higher and me immediately to mount to the summit higher, up to the sheer precipice of the of Epomeo, or drive round the island, or mountain, seems to toss up here and there go to Ischia, Forio, or Lacco Ameno. crests of rock, round which a sea of vines Madame Dombré * British by birth, and olives rolls placidly.
Italianized by twenty-five years' residence “There,” said a fellow-passenger, “is - received me at the entrance of the hoCasamicciola!” He pointed to a little tel, and with some excuses for the fulness bay, the beach of which was lined with of the house — which otherwise I prewhite houses, among which I detected, sume was not disagreeable to her – conwithout satisfaction, two or three smoking ducted me to my room, which was on the chimneys, which were, I was told, the top platform, so to speak, or the upperappurtenances of certain manufactories of most and third of the terraces in which tiles, for which the island, from all time, the building was disposed. And, if I had has been celebrated. At the back of to mount a little higher, I was so amply these houses the land mounted steeply, rewarded by the beautiful view from the narrowing between two folds or arms that windows that I refused to change when a descended from the yellow rock forming better apartment became vacant later on the double crest of Epomeo; and in this during my stay. natural amphitheatre were built the rows It seems to me as I write now, recountof houses, detached or forming short ing little incidents of the most triling imstreets, and villas standing in their cwn port, as though I were recording things grounds, which constituted the favorite relating to a world that is past and gone; resort of Roman and Neapolitan families. although nearly a month bas elapsed since The names of many of these villas - or I becaine an inmate of the hoiel, I still penstons were inscribed upon them in hear the voices and see the faces of the large letters visible through the glass, pleasant company amidst which I passed and looking upwards I saw La Piccola such bright hours, and I wonder if it can Sentinella keeping watch and ward over be true indeed that they were so soon de. the little town from a high plateau - a stroyed in such a pitiless catastrophe ! terraced front with windows fenced in by The hotel was conducted on the usual green jalousies, two lines of bright white principle of the Continent – café au lait buildings, girt tightly in a belt of fruit- in the morning in one's bedroom, di jeuner trees, grapes, and olives.
à la fourchette at noon down-stairs, and A fleet of small boats came alongside table d'hôte dinner at seven in a long the steamer, and I was transferred, under room, at one end of which were a suloir the care of Melchior, the commission- and a small drawing-room, from wbich naire of the hotel,* to one of them. windows opened out on the terrace, where
Although piers could be made very there were bowers with chairs and tables readily at almost every Italian port, pas. from which you looked down over a great sengers are always conveyed from the spread of foliage, falling almost sheer steamers by boats. “What would be down for a quarter of a mile to the houses come of the boatmen,” I was asked, " if at the little port upon the placid bay. piers were made ?” At every landing the
# Mrs. Dombré and her husband are among the sur# He has escaped.
The tinkliog bell in the courtyard sum- and at the end of the table a little family moned the inmates of the hotel to dinner group consisting of an elderly lady with a in the long room, and the old stagers and beautiful placid face, her son and bis the new-comers scanned each other as companion, and a younger lady, all of they took their places at table. Nearly whom resolved themselves into a little opposite to me were a young couple in whist party in the evening.* There were whom almost from the very first day I some Germans, evidently artists: Herr was interested. The man I ascertained Kiepert of Berlin, who left very soon after a while to be blind, though he wore after my arrival; the wife of a Dutch dark-blue glasses, which prevented one's judge in the service of the khedive; † the seeing his eyes. A sad, somewhat stern rest of the company, some twenty-five in face, marked with the hard lines of suf- all, being for the most part Italians. fering; still young, but his jet-black hair My place at the table was next to the fair prematurely touched with white and grey. young English girl of whom I have spokThe lady by his side, some years younger, en, and her mother. In the little inveshad in her face a placid beauty which at tigation of our neighbors which is usual tracted every one, and very soon, as day the first night under such circumstances, after day the devotion of her life revealed we came to the conclusion that we Enitself, she excited among the new.comers glish were in a very small minority ina solicitude of which she was but little deed; but that, far away at the end of the aware ; for to her blind husband, queru- long table, there was a small company lous at times, she was a living sacrifice. who possibly might belong to the British She led him about in the walks they took Isles if they were not claimed by the great for hours up and down the garden; carved Republic. It was a very cosmopolitan every morsel on his plate; prepared his assemblage. There
Germans, dishes, watching every sign io anticipate Greeks, Spaniards, French, Maltese; but his wants; submitting to reproaches about by far the greater number of the visitors the toughness of his beefsteak, and to were Italians, and of these many were complaints that the place did him no good; obviously " taking the waters” and were dressing and undressing him like a child absorbed in their cure. The principal - she the slim oak, and he the clinging topic of conversation was the launch of ivy.
the “ Savoia,” which was to take place on " Perhaps," said a lady one day, when the following day at Castellamare. I remarked how happy Madame After dinner the company strolled out seemed as she tucked her husband under into the garden, which overliung the fields her arm and led him away from lunch, of olives descending to the sea, and sat " she is pleased because he can see no out watching the stars and Vesuvius. one, and therefore cannot be attracted “ Later on in the season,” said one of from her.” But I believe it was in her my acquaintances, we shall have some intense affection she found all the happi- amusement. There is a little theatre ness of her life.*
down the town which is generally well Among others at table was a young filled, and the people come up and dance Roman prince, who had come to try the the tarantella ; and then there are conjuefficacy of the waters in curing an injury rors and, of course, the inevitable Neapol. to his foot, a young Italian officer of cavitan street musicians with guitars and alry, who was there to see whether be mandolins, who are always floating about could be mended by the same agency, so the towns along the coast." as to mount bis horse again -a fall from As darkness came on, and I sat out on which on the hard pavement of the Nea- the terrace in front of my room, I obpolitan highway had injured his leg se served the dull glare lighting up the sky verely by contact with the pommel of his over Vesuvius, despite ihe effulgence of a sword.† Besides my two fellow-passen. three-quarters moon; and, seen from gers, there were nearly opposite to us at such a distance, it appeared to me as if table three English ladies ; # an old and the volcano was more active than it had distinguished officer of the Indian army;s been while I was at Naples. It was the
* I believe that they left Casamicciola before the 23rd of June, a delicious night, so fresh earthquake.
that most of the people who went out to † Prince de D—, I am told, left a short time before take their cigars after dinner on the ter. the 28th of July. The officer referred to went away soon after my departure. and the two Misses - went away
* These all perished.
f I believe this poor lady was among the victims. $ Colonel M-was in the hotel at the time, and İ Mrs. and Miss Roberton, who perished in the He is recovering.
I Miss Hbefore I did.
was rescued from the ruins.
race put on their overcoats. Somehow or | hotel unaided, I determined to discover other, Vesuvius especially attracted my the Stabilimento Belliazzi by myself. I attention, and I could not help remarking struck down from the hotel by a narrow the resemblance between the dull outline and very dusty road, at every corner of of the mountain in the distance and the which was posted a beggar, more or less form of the crest of Epomeo over my crippled, exceedingly importunate when head. Besides, I had observed rents in capable of motion, and making the mornthe walls of some of the houses, and had ing hideous with his cries. At the end noted certain wooden sheds which had of this lane there were streetlets, small been pointed out to me as the dwellings patches of houses, with narrow paved of those who had been rendered house.f roads between them, which, in the then less by the earthquake of two years be- state of my knowledge, were very puz. fore. So, meeting Madame Dombré in zling. Several efforts to ascertain from the corridor, for lack of something else passers-by where the place I wanted was, to say, I asked: “Is there any fear of an having only produced vigorous efforts to earthquake? I hope we shall not have lead me astray to other baths I knew not one whilst I am here." Lord, sir, don't of, I was reluctantly compelled to ascend talk of such a thing !” size said. “ The the steep, and arrived at La Piccola last earthquake only shook down some of Sentinella so completely exhausted by the ill-built old houses in the village above the heat that I did not feel inclined to re. us; it did not touch any of the stout, well. new my search that day. At the hotel, built houses, like this. And besides there which is perched on the shoulder of a won't be any earthquake, wise people say, ridge of tufa, there was always a pleasant for the next eighty years, and when that breeze; and as the sun sank down towards comes it won't trouble either of us very the mountain, the cool depths amongst much !” – which was, if the wise people the orchards gave a shade which invited were right, a very true remark.
the inmates to sit out and watch the Now the first thing a visitor to Ischia steamers and the moving panorama of for health's sake has to do is to settle ships all the way from the distant mounupon the water to which be will resort; tains over Circe's Cave, round by Gaeta for the sources are many, and the conten- to the foot of Vesuvius. tions of rival physicians most acrimonious Next morning I was up betimes and and distracting. I suspect that the hotels made another attempt to reach the Stawere affected in the interest of these fac- bilimento Belliazzi, the locality of which tions. That to which I was affiliated I had well studied in the plan. Down by was altogether devoted to Dr. Salvi, of the Via Garibaldi and the Via Vittore the Stabilimento Belliazzi. There are no Emmanuele, past the beggars, each watchless than fourteen different groups of ing his own strip of road for plunder as sources, all thermal, varying from 18° to the robber chief of old looked down from 80° C. Some contain chloride and bicar. his castle to mark the unwary traveller; bonate of soda; others bromides and descending always towards ihe sea, at iodides; and others are impregnated with last 1 emerged upon a small piazza (dei iron. But, truth to say, I did not make a Bagni), with a church at one end and an very close investigation into the merits inn at the other, and a little wooden theaof these waters, being content immediately tre facing it on one side of an open marto apply myself to the establishment rec- ket-place. Here were the various bathing ommended on the walls of the hotel. Dr. Stabilimenti, as they are called, resemSalvi, the physician of this establishment, bling Turkish mosques without minarets, had certainly every guarantee, in his de- unless the chimneys of certain steam-engrees, in his experiences, and in his ac- gines attached to these establishments tual employınent in a great medical estab- were taken to do duty for them. I was lishment on the mainland, that he was especially recommended to Dr. Salvi, entitled to the confidence of his patients. whose very name sounded pleasantly to a
But, as I am rather about to tell of patient; but the people to whom I apmy own experiences at Casamicciola than plied for information possibly were antito enter into any disquisition on the Salvites, and knew nothing about him, baths, I will follow, with the permission though I had just read a long list of titles of my readers, the incidents, such as they after his name in the treatise in which he were, which I find noted from time to time warns all the world against the pretenin my diary.
tious rivals of the Belliazzi baths, which My first morning was a complete fiasco; be declared had no antiquity and no tra. for, proud of my success in finding the ditions, and possibly no virtues. At last