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needle till they acquired a kind of artist's prattle he listens to and answers with ur. touch. The forms are rude, and often banity and patience. grotesque, indeed; but they live and There is, indeed, not much doing. move, and, having seen them, you feel Sometimes an elderly gentleman comes that you know the men and their times in to read the Revue des Deux Mondes. ever so much better than you did before. Sometimes a learned duc of the old régime The story is told, too, with much simplic. looks in with a little paper of notes and ity and directness, and you feel at once queries to be resolved in some old MS. tlíat the nobly born women who worked or early edition ; it is chiefly with the

this elaborate epic with the needle old aristocracy of France that any taste must have known the heroes of it in their remains for archæology. lives. Harold is the chief hero, and Har- We have been talking of Alan Char. old is treated with a sympathy and re-trier, the poet of the fifteenth century who spect that suggest something like affec. was born here at Bayeux in a house that tion for the gallant, kingly man. And is still in existence, and Hilda wants to then we see why this tapestry is appro. see an early edition of his works, which priately placed at Bayeux, rather than at the grave librarian courteously looks out Westminster, or York, or Winchester. for us. For the central incident of the plot is not “ Faicts et dictz de Maistre Alain either shipwreck or battle, but the terri- Chartrier - à Paris par Philippe le Noir ble oath that Harold took in the cathe- en la rue Sainct Jacques à l'enseigne de dral here at Bayeux upon the relics of la rose blanche couronnée.” Here we the saints and in face of the high altar; have the lament of a poble dame, whose the oath which he swore to William, and lover was slain at the battle of Agincourt, which he broke for the sake of England's and much amorous poetry of a grave, and

Next to Harold, Odo is the fa- dignified, and highly proper character, vorite with the women of those days But one little distich pleases me, which I Odo, the warrior-bishop, who spent the show to Hilda :: revenues of this fat diocese in arms, and horses, and soldiers' trappings.

Aymer je vous vueil The old lady, who sits tranquilly in the

Par joye ou par dueil, doorway, kindly leaves people alone to which I freely translate for her benefit, study the tapestry at their leisure; only lest she should be puzzled by the old interfering to turn the visitor round the French, “ Love you I will, for good or corner at the right moment to investigate ill.” the inner side of the screen; and it is At this moment Tom Courtney comes pleasant to find that the tapestry is freely along to whip us up for the omnibus to accessible to strangers all day long and Port en Bessin. Madame la directrice is every day in the week.

uneasy at being so long away from her At ten o'clock precisely a footstep director, and we are to start at once, trustsounds upon the staircase that leads to ing to getting breakfast at Port. For the library above, and a grave, pleasant. everybody calls the place Port - it is the looking librarian mounts and opens the port of the district, and the people of the big door. The library, is a pleasant, Bessin still hang together, a litt clanquiet room lined with books, and there nishly. the grave librarian sits over a big vol- We are to meet at the bureau in the ume, a learned-looking skull-cap on his place aux Pommes — for there is a place head. No doubt he is diving deeply for everything in roomy Bayeux; we into the history of old Bayeux, and some should not be surprised to find a separate day, perhaps, we shall see an exhaustive place for shrimps and watercresses. And and learned work from his pen, begin. so we find ourselves at a little glass office ning with the deposition of the Bajocien in the middle of a yard, where omnibuses oolite, and ending with the introduction of and diligence are stored, with much poulgas-lamps and the new pavement.

try, and an occasional hearse. On the Meantime, he shows with pride a pres: walls outside many colored bills are to be entation copy from “ Sout Kensington seen, announcing excursions, to the British of a work on the Bayeux tapestry, and Isles among other places, and inviting us sundry seals and charters which have to assist at the solemnity of the “Exbeen presented by English people. Per position industrielle de la pêche.” haps there is not very much to interrupt The omnibus is pretty well packed with his studies except the inquisitiveness of our party, and a newly married couple, the English people like ourselves, whose I bride looking rather' frightened and not

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particularly happy. Just in front of us empty, and that the seigneurial pigeons starts another omnibus, smaller and even no longer plunder the furrows for miles rougher-looking than ours, for Asnelles, around. Then through a gap in the range the roof loaded with flowers, and one fat, of bills we catch sight of the little port rosy, happy-looking curé inside. We beneath us, and the sea spread tranquilly leave Bayeux by the top of the town, far and near. Our coachman has kept where there is an old convent turned into back a gallop for the avenue, and we dash a gendarmerie, and a vast market-place wildly into the little town, where there is lined with a double row of trees, and with some gentle stir in the way of ancient-looking stone benches for the but. ing, and where a few fishing boats are lyter-and-egg women to stand their wares ing high and dry in the inner harbor. upon, where Henry Plantagenet may have In the port itself great works are gocome to chaffer with the pretty market- ing on, digging and excavating, with bal. girls. All tells of ancient times, and of a last-wagons and a ballast-engine running life which has known no violent disruption noisily about. Till recently there was a since those days of old. And the sleepy little établissement here under the cliff, old chimes ring us out of the town, as if for the bathers who came during the seait were as much as they can do to get son, but that has been swept away by the through their bar of feeble harmony. harbor works. The place is a brisk and

And then we travel along a straight road pleasant one, with rocky cliffs rising on lined with poplars, and looking back there either hand, and layers of limestone rocks is always the cathedral to be seen at the forming the sea-floor, while the harbor end of the avenue; for there its towers piers make a breezy, quiet promenade. stand out without appearing to become The “Sea-Mew" is lying a good way more distant for mile after mile - at least out at sea, for the tide runs low, and the for kilomètre after kilomètre. A fertile bottom is rocky; but she is coming in as country lies around, well-wooded, and with soon as the tide makes. And already the rich pastures, the cows lying half con water is stirring, and the sturdy masts of cealed in the rich berbage. The farmers' the fisher-boats begin to topple to and fro. wives are driving out in their little don. So we take our second breakfast comfortkey.carts for the midday milking, their ably outside the inn, in full view of all noble brass milk-cans glittering and clank that is going on, and with the sea shining ing; or sometimes with a hotte - a rough before us. The tide rises, the fishing wooden framework – on the donkey's population is astir; the fisher: wives, back, that holds eight of these grand loaded with nets and baskets, pitch their milking-pails — four on a side, and the burdens on to the boats. Sails are hauled good dame in the middle, sturdily astride up, and everybody shouts and pulls, often the donkey's neck. The donkeys are leaving off pulling to shout more freely. fine and reasonable-looking beasts, with Meantime one or two boats have come in hearts to be touched by objurgation and with the tide. The bell over the neat reproval, and consequently, knowing little little fish-market rings lustily. Baskets of of the stick, fat, comfortable-looking ani. fish are landed. The bell rings again, mals, of no great size, but decidedly and they are all sold. When more boats clever goers.

come in, the market begins again; the Here we pass a château, or the site of bell ringing to announce its opening. The one rather, with nothing left of its origi- dealers, mostly women, flock together; nal grandeur but stables, which are good and again the bell jingles, and the market enough for the farmer to live in, and some is closed. And so on all day long, and grand-looking barns and the seigneurial well into the night. pigeon-towers now converted into cart- By this time a fishing boat is ready to sheds. As we approach the coast the start from the inner basin. “La porte, hills rise to an edge — lills not so rich. ouvrez!” cries the fisherman's wife, who looking or sa thickly wooded as the coun. is managing matters on shore. And then try we have just passed through, but everybody puts his or her back to the covered with good crops of grain. This lever of the dock-gate douanier, womis the edge of the Bessin, the great milk en, idlers. The gate opens, and the boat basin of Normandy: What pastures passes through, her big mainsail shaking there are within it, what cattle, and what in the wind. Away they go, the crew prosperity! Hundreds of little home- bustling about, and the master bawling steads lie scattered about, filled with lustily. There are four men on board, cosy, comfortable people, who have cause and a mousse, a little sailor boy, the clevto rejoice that the seigneurial barns lie! erest of the party, who speaks up as if he

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were the head of them all. As the boat countenance, neither pleasure nor sorrow, scuds through the harbor, the 'master's neither surprise, anger, nor impatience, wife runs after her along the pier, and nor any other passion is depicted there ; pelts the receding boat with anyihing she no thought seemed to fit or flash across can pick up. It is all for luck, no doubt, their mind, no grief or trouble seemed to like our old shoes in England, and the distress or agitate them, or leave one sinmaster shouts back a cheery adieu. gle trace.mark on their brow. They were

Well, our breakfast is finished just as the quiet possessors of human life, and the steam-pipe of the “Sea.Mew" gives capable of much labor nd endurance, us hoarse warning of her approach. Such and that seemed saying about all. Dar. a scene has hardly ever been seen before win no doubt, or his sceptic friends, would in the little port, and the whole population have tried to draw mischievous conclu. clusters on the pier to see her come in. sions from their inanimate looks and va. We can see our little director on the cant stares, and in their anxiety to extend bridge with the master and the pilot. far and wide their family connections, Our director shouts and gesticulates. He might probably have linked them on to is carried below out of the way of the creatures of a lower grade. These hard pilot - almost by force, for the channel is remarks do not apply of course to every narrow, and the navigation ticklish. Soon aboriginal Indian, for sometimes their a great bawser clears the crowd before looks belie them. Our seven Indian pad. it like a broom, and the “Sea-Mew" is dlemen, more favored than their brethren safely moored in the harbor of the Bessin. of the bush, wore on their heads some

sort of covering, and rejoiced moreover in wearing apparel, not of the latest on most fashionable London or Paris cut, but answering well all good purposes.

Our passengers were easily counted, MORUCA; OR, A FEW DAYS AMONG THE consisting of two priests of the Society of

Jesus, drawn to these parts froin very Our little tent-boat being prepared, different quarters, one from the Romao Indian paddlemen procured, and all nec- Province, the other from London. essary and many useful things provided, Our cargo consisted of a supply of prowe stepped into our places ready to work visions of a simple sort: rice in abun. our way into the interior, there to admin- dance, some much-prized potatoes (the ister to the spiritual wants of the simple gist of a good Irish captain), plantains, children of the woods.

cassava bread, hard biscuit,, cofJust before starting, however, we took fee, sugar, and red pepper. These formed the wise precaution of running over once our chief supply; but we had luxuries on more our memorandum list, to assure board, consisting of water, cocoa-nuts, ourselves that nothing of real importance limes, and a few oranyes, some sardines, has been omitted in our packing process, not to forget a well-cared for tin of roast that the lucifer matches liad not been for beef, to be eaten on some Italian feastgotten, or misplaced, or exposed to damp, day, in honor of old England. We also that a sufficient supply of salt was there, took with us some little cakes, nuts, and that our breviaries were in our pockets, colored sweetmeats for the small native and that the keys of the canister were in children. Besides all these commodities, safe keeping:

carefully had we sequestered in a corner Being well satisfied that all was right of our boat, under close personal inspec. and ready, we seated ourselves under tion, some bottles of very indifferent rum, some three yards of coarse brown canvas, good enough for the intended purpose, bade our men push off from the land and iogether with many ragged leaves of the betake themselves to rowing.

tobacco plant, with clay pipes to match. Our crew consisted of seven young In. All these things were for the use and dians of the woods, men low in stature, special benefit of our copper-colored crew. but of a strong, broad build, with mus. Poor fellows, they well deserved whatever cular arms. Their countenances were they received in that shape, exposed as smooth and placid, all of a dull copper they were to the sun's hot rays by day, to color.

the heavy rainfalls and to the dampness of What strikes one so much in looking the dewy nights, besides that they had at these aboriginal natives of the forest, much hard pulling to go through and many is the total absence of anything like ex. other manual labors. pression or character stamped on their Among our treasures on board, as

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might naturally be expected, was a canis- Some there are expert in capturing the ter containing a portable altar, vestments, bright-plumed birds, such as the macaws, and sacred vessels: in a word, everything parrots, paroquets, and other pretty specinecessary for mass and for the due ad- mens of the feathered tribe. These poor ministration of the sacraments. A fair-liule captives are sent to town, bartered sized bundle of beads, crosses, and bright or bought, then sold again, spending, medals found its way into this canister, poor things, the rest of their lives in perbesides some religious prints. These petual imprisonment. Noisy and unwel. pictures are much prized by our good Income next-door neighbors they become to dians, and when they hang or stick them quiet-going folks. Besides these larger with a thorn the right way up, not on and living birds, they bring the dried walls (for walls they have none), but upon feathered skins of smaller ones, such as the posts of their dwelling, they add much the humming bird, with its bright, glitterto the religious aspect of the place. A ing mantle, or the cotingas, of gayest few paint-brushes, with some bright col- plumage: and these too they sell to passors, insisted on a free passage in our boat, ers-by as best they can. They bring and were not refused. A clock, a lamp, a teeth and tusks of savage beasts, brighi, portable tin kitchen, measuring at least metal-looking beetle wings, all strung on a nine inches square, and of much more in- string, and other strange natural curiosiconvenience than ever worth, made up the ties of the wood. And thus the Indians rest of our precious cargo.

make out an honest livelihood, free from So much then for our crew, our black many anxious cares and worldly troubles. gowned passengers, and our well-selected But our men are waiting in the boat, store of the good and useful things of ready to dip in their oars and commence this world.

their rowing. Let us not keep them wait. A word now about our voyage, and on ing longer. the first place whither we are steering: The word of command was given, and We are going to make a pastoral visit of away they went like so many machines a few days to some Indians of the Ara- well wound up, looking neither to the wack tribe, or some Spanish-speaking right nor to the left, indulging in no Indians living round about the Moruca smiles, exchanging no words. True, there River, at the Jesuit Mission of St. Rosa, was not much to see to the right nor to some thirty miles south of the broad the left, or much just then to speak about, Orinoco, running into the Caribbean Sea. for the first part of our journey was sig.

These good Indians some many years nally uninteresting. Two straight-cut mud ago, on

account of the never-ceasing banks of an estate canal confined the troubles and perpetual disturbances in muddy water. On the one side was the Venezuela, fled from that territory and cane-field, all waving and flourishing with sought refure, if not protection, in the green sugarcanes, on the other, waste now much disputed borderland of British or uncultivated land was all we could obGuiana. There they live unmolested and serve. Some time was lost, and much unknown, keeping to the ancient tradition patience too expended, in extricating our. of their people, and adhering strictly to selves from some half-dozen square-built the principles of their holy religio punts unceremoniously disputing with us

With their strong.built wooden church the whole width of the muddy stream, be. in their midst, and the high mission cross side some time wasted in pulling up hurtowering over its roof, belfry, and build- dles rather firmly fixed across our waterings, they spend their days and hours in path, for reasons better known to others peace, happiness, and health, cultivating than to ourselves. some few acres of good productive soil. But soon all our petty troubles came to There they plant the cassava root, the a happy ending, and the scene became, as luck or Indian yam, sweet potatoes, plan. if by magic, marvellously changed. De. tains, and hot peppers, and besides they lighiful views and vistas and fairy visions grow sufficient coffee and sugar for their were before us now, such as travellers daily wants. Fruit-trees flourish there as rarely witness, say what they may about well as the cocoa-nut palm, West Indian the Trossachs, and other hackneyed pines, castor-oil, and cotton.

though pretty European spots. Our little These good people, moreover, do a lit. boat had glided swiftly and smoothly into ile trade in aromatic and varnish.inaking an arcade of wondrous beauty. Tropical gums, searching the dense forest for them trees, tall, thin, and elegant of growth, and sending them to town as occasion shot up on either side of the forest stream, lends, where they find a ready market. while trees of lower and more irregular growth and of foliage more luxuriant; bent|tween the leaf or flower or fern and its gracefully forward over the dark, deep reflected counterpart; in a word, to draw waters in Gothic arch-like form, while the line between earth and water, recall. parasites and flowering creepers of varied ing to one's mind the words of Pope : hues clustered or hung about in rich pro Grove nods to grove, each alley has a brother, fusion, some in careless festoon fashion, And half the garden but reflects the other. or as if in loving pity and compassion for some decayed and fallen or ancient mon. Among other of nature's beauties in this arch of the forest mantling it all over paradise of artistic pleasure, grew the with a new garment of richest verdure. Victoria Regia lily, so courted on its first

There too the orchid family felt quite introduction to England.some thirty years at home, fresh and ever flowering, tres. ago, when placed in the waters of Kew, passing on every sturdy branch or stem where, as its name doth verily import, our or ancient stump. Begonias were there, gracious Majesty the queen stood god. with their soft, dark, velvet leaves, such mother for it, and when thousands ran as Kew or Chatsworth miglit well be from London town and its vast suburbs proud of, and there too grew, half-hiding to see it, marvel, and admire. In Kew itself, as if in disgrace, that curious speci- Gardens not many of these beautiful men of the wild arum, with bright blood- aquatic flowers are born to blush un. colored spots upon its leaves, as if guilty seen," whereas out here the poet's words of some dark deed or wicked crime. are better verified — profusely growing

And what lent so much to the strange unobserved, and often never seen at all, artistic beauty of the picture spread out losing their delightful fragrance, I know before us, and in itself formed one of not where. the strangest features, was the numerous The specimens of Kew are, if memory long string and pendent hangings fails me not, larger than those out here, from the losty trees above. Some of but wanting in that bright freshness these rope. hangings, cable-like in size, natural to plants in their native earth or hung from a height of eighty feet or more, element. and as some of these ropes or cables, call Besides this majestic queen of water them what you will, trailed downwards lilies, our watery way was overgrown in and touched the mother earth below, they places with another species, much smaller asserted at once an independence of their land of peculiar habits, for, as if jealous of own, struck out vigorous roots and shoots its queenly rival, this lily expanded its from their downward heads, and then re- pure white petals only at dead of night, versed 'would seem their growth, and emitting a perfume pleasant enough at a grew to all appearance upwards, and in distance, but in its essence too strong for tine swelled out to the size of slender Rimmel, Truefitt, or their trade. trees. Some of these long pendants were During the daytime we did boyish playful, nay, malicious in their downward violence to several of its young buds, and growth, clinging to some poor young tree were surprised to find in almost every one or struggling sapling, and squeezing it to we forced open two large beetles of 'sable the very death by twisting round it in cruel hue. How they got there, or what they corkscrew fashion, forming at the time, it did, and how they stood their strange conmay be, a pretty fantastic object in the finement was our puzzle, though perhaps wood for travellers to point at and admire, naturalists have written in a book some or perhaps providing now and then, if a five pages or more, telling us the why, the woodcutter passed that way or was wan. bow, and all about it, for aught we poor dering there in quest of guins, a crooked, missioners inay know. twisted walking-stick for some curious- Flowers and trees, curious creepers and minded man.

orchids, roots, blood-stained leaves, and As just hinted above, the waters of the strange roots, and hanging ropes, have creek'are dark — they are dark indeed, of charmed and interested us much, but one a true coffee color, but like unto the quali- thing has, with reason, disappointed us, ties of real good coffee are as clear as well and we marvelled at it; it was the total could be, so bright and clear that every absence of the feathered tribe, for we green leaf or tender leaflet, every flower heard no song, no warbling, no merry or fern, or root or moss, twig or broken chirping, nor did the bell-bird sing out a branch, is strongly reflected there as in tune or toll its bell, or the mocking-birds, the brightest houdoir mirror. So charm- so numerous, favor us with their deceping was the effect, and yet so puzzling tive notes, or even the humming-bird “fit too, and so hard it was to distinguish be- l by ever then so merrily." Green parrots

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