The feftival of Sidi Ibrahim (x) was laft week held at Rofetta, and drew a vast concourfe of people. A Turk permitted me to fee the proceffion from his house, where, seated at the window, I observed this novel fight with attention. The different trades gravely marched in files, each preceded by its banner; the standard of Mahomet borne in triumph followed, and attracted a prodigious croud; all were defirous to touch, kifs, or put it to their eyes, and those who obtained this favour, returned fatisfied; the tumult was renewed inceffantly. After this came the Cheiks, priests of the country, wearing leather-caps in the form of a mitre, and finging, as they flowly walked, the hymns of the Koran. A few paces behind them I perceived a company of men, apparently frantic, with naked arms, wild eyes, and enormous ferpents in their hands, which twined round their bodies, and endeavoured to escape.

(z) Our Lord Abraham. The Arabs, being defcendants of Abraham, from Ifhmael, hold him in great veneration, and keep an annual feftival in his honour.

Thefe

These Plylli, (a) feizing them forcibly by the neck, avoided their bite, and, regardless of their hiffes, tore them with their teeth and eat them alive, while the blood streamed from their defiled mouths; other Pfylli ftruggled with them, to force away their prey; the contention was who should devour a living ferpent.

The astonished populace followed, and cried-A miracle! They fuppofed these people inspired, and poffeffed by a spirit, which destroyed the effects of the bite of ferpents. The description I have fent you is exact; the fight first terrified me, and afterwards led me to reflect on man, that strange creature, to whom poifon becomes food; that credulous being, who, blinded by his ignorance, cannot detect a fraud which is annually practifed, but is prompted to worship one of his own fpecies, who has art fufficient to deceive him. You perceive, Sir,.

(a) The Pfylli, men of Cyrene, poffeffed a fecret against the poifon of ferpents. Strabo, lib. 17.

Perhaps, by feeding on their flesh, they deftroyed the

effect of their bite.

VOL. I.

F

ancient

ancient ufages are not loft, in a country where that tyrant, cuftom, has particularly erected his altars and his throne.

I have the honour to be, &c

LET

LETTER V.

Voyage from Rofetta to Boulac. Obfervations on the manner of navigating the Nile, on the canals cut from it, the towns, villages and hamlets, built on their banks, the productions and cultivation of the country, and the cuf toms of the inhabitants.

To M. L. M.

Rofetta, Oct. 1ft, 1777.

AND now, Sir, be pleased to imagine me on board a mach, that is to fay a large two mafted boat with an agreeable cabin, and a smaller one hung with mats curiously worked. A tent on the deck fhades me from the fun's heat, and, thus feated, from this charming prospect will I endeavour to trace objects as they rife to view. It is now one o'clock, the anchor is weighed, the fail fwells and the north wind, which blows without intermiffion at this feafon of the year, with cafe carries us against the current: brifkly we cut the waves which whiten on the prow

of our fmall veffel. The high minarets of Rosetta diminish, and every moment new and delightful views fix our attention. The fhores of the Nile abound in reeds, the plains with corn; the rice is maturing for the fickle, and the wind, agitating its pliant furface, makes it refemble the waving motion of the fea; the husbandman, whose care it is to water the harveft, opens the fluices, or closes the dams at pleafure; the ox turns the noify creaking wheel which raifes the waters; diftant cots and hamlets rife, and now and then a few houfes of bricks, fun-dried; and now we behold a small mofque, with its minaret by turns concealed and feen among the tall trees, furrounded by the orange, the palm, and fycamore, every object feems to fpring from the bofom of profufion and verdure! We have already past various villages, and an ifland, on the banks of which water melons grow; of these we have inade ample provifion, for it is impoffible to be fatiated with them. Nurtured in a rich foil and ripened by a penetrating fun, here, amid these heats, their melting fweetness is moft delicious; and, what encreases their value, moft healthy; they may be eaten to excefs,

without